Can't get rid of this white murky stuff in water :(

[Gamb311]

I guess this is flux? I'm using thermochill rads and pretty sure thats where this came from. I have 2 loops both have this white murky stuff in water. I have redone the loop twice in the last year. New tubing each time. I originally cleaned out rads with hot water but I guess not good enough? Now each time I redo loop the white stuff keeps coming back. Is it because it's stuck in blocks/rads?

Temps don't seem to change. The white stuff eventually builds up and stains the tubing. I have a good bit of silver in loops. Will ptnuke help? or am I just screwed? Been draining constantly also... Only use distilled/silver.

Any advice?

[PatRaceTin]

ahhh i wish to see some photo.......

[Erklat]

It sounds like a plasticizer leech. Switch to other tubing, it is the tubing which makes the water murky.

Sent from my HTC Desire using Tapatalk

[Elpy]

Pretty sure its just the flux. Quoting Skinnee here

One of the bigger gripes many including myself have with the PA is the never-ending radiator flux. Even though I always quick flush before looping a radiator up, the PA was like the gift that kept giving, only the gift was flux and you did not want it

It's the same for me. Cleaned my loop and changed tubing like 1,5 months ago... Water's getting white again :). Dont really know what kind of extreme flushing operation it would take to get it all off.

[Philwong]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v97/tmwong/f12.jpg
Something like this?

Thats plasticizer leech.

Phil

[shazza]

I've had a similar issue with the TA rads (older ones). Also had the same thing with Magicool.

It can be very difficult to get all of the flux out. You can try car radiator cleaning products. I found a few rinses with alcohol helped tremendously ... ymmv depending on the radiator and flux.

I'm doubting it's plasticizer only - although that may be contributing.

[Elpy]

I've had a similar issue with the TA rads (older ones). Also had the same thing with Magicool.
I think you mean the HE's since TA's are the new models :) (which according to skinnee dont have the flux problem anymore)

[bmaverick]

Are you using FluidXP and Water Wetter? Had that happen when the two were mixed in one of my old loops. After draining the loop, the white stuff turned to white chalky like powder. It took five flushes of 50/50 distilled vinegar and distilled water to flush the entire loop clean.

If it's only your RAD, the auto parts stores sell Prestone radiator flush. It works super to clean rads from all kinds of nasties inside. Letting is soak for 30 mins does a great job.

[Church]

Good question is to those miscellaneous cleaning liquids/agents - how agressive those are against other loop components, eg. if Shazza's suggested alcohol usage & some acrylic reservoirs :shakes: .. or recalling story about some stronger vinegar damaging nickel plating on waterblocks :shakes: .. one has to be careful to differentiate if he cleans rad flux in assembled loop or in standalone rad.

[shazza]

I think you mean the HE's since TA's are the new models :) (which according to skinnee dont have the flux problem anymore)

Good clarification, Elpy ... Yes, I was referring to the older HE models ... with the larger fan spacing. (Should not post on New Year's morning without careful consideration :p:)

And - to clarify - I found alcohol was the only thing that worked on my "Older Thermochill rads" - Said nothing about using it in acrylic reservoirs. With any cleaning agent, one should make sure to start with dilute solutions, and rinse thoroughly. If you have a radiator with flux in it, you'll want to remove it completely from the loop and work on it separately. (Edit: oops, didn't mean to come across as snarky to Churchy's comment - he is absolutely right, and alcohol is not recommended to clean acrylic ;) )

I'm still guessing flux is contributing to the issue - but obviously more info/photos would be needed, as I too thought the newer Thermochills were not as likely to have a flux issue.

[Martinm210]

FYI, water wetter has Ether in it...
http://www.redlineoil.com.au/Uploads/Downloads/MSDS%20WaterWetter%20Euro%207_01.pdf

Ether + Acrylic is bad...
http://microadvances.com/chemicals1.htm

I guess white stuff could be flux or plasticizer, but if you're going to use anything harsh to clean...make sure you flush that out really really well.

[Gamb311]

pics tomorrow when I get camera back. Pretty sure it's flux and the thermos are PA.

It's basically in my entire 2 loops and need something that can help clean it out in both loops without taking everything apart. Then drain/fill over and over. Seems like when I drain loops that the white flux just drys up to tube/block/res/rad. Hard to flush this stuff. :(

if worse comes to worst. What bad can come of this? Just ugly look or can it actually decrease my cooling effectiveness. Flux stained my last 2 video card blocks but I'm sure I can clean them out. Not sure if it messed with flow. Just ugly. I hate ugly

[Atragon]

Just a thought, and I may be wrong about this working since I've never actually had to flush a WC loop before... but wouldn't opening your loop up at the reservoir and doing this work to flush with tap water?

tap->res->pump->rest of loop ->drain

[DangerIsGo]

Unless I'm mistaken, it is my understanding that you would never, ever run tap water through your loop. I'm running into my tubing staining right now, so I am switching over to air cooling for the time being until I can figure out what I'm going to do next.

EDIT: Yup, I was right:


Also, remember to NEVER get tap water near your components. It contains calcium and will leave nasty deposits on the components. If you MUST use it, I suggest flushing the component with distilled water immediately after using the tap water. Bottled waters are also a no no. They contain minerals and other chemicals that are unhealthy for the loop.

from this (http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=54331) awesome thread.

[Onoff312]

it is JIZZ

[Atragon]

Unless I'm mistaken, it is my understanding that you would never, ever run tap water through your loop. I'm running into my tubing staining right now, so I am switching over to air cooling for the time being until I can figure out what I'm going to do next.

EDIT: Yup, I was right:



from this (http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=54331) awesome thread.

Thanks for the link Danger, it would seem that I was wrong.

[DangerIsGo]

it is JIZZ

Ewwww :P

[DangerIsGo]

So here is the crap thats on my tubing and blocks, anyone know if its algae or flux or plasticizer leech?

http://img341.imageshack.us/img341/5052/dsc1769l.jpg
http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/3725/dsc1770z.jpg
http://img254.imageshack.us/img254/4817/dsc1777.jpg

[schoolslave]

Is it slightly blueish-turquoise?
I found that around some of my fittings and I just run pure distilled + silver coil. I'm beginning to think it's residue from when I ran my CPU block with Feser Blue UV coolant a couple years ago....

[DangerIsGo]

Yeah, its about that color...its all over my tubes, blocks and barbs. I ran distilled water + PT Nuke.

[schoolslave]

I'll post some pics of mine later too.
It's odd, I cleaned my D-tek Fuzion and only ran distilled + silver coil since then.
Also, I purchased a couple of blocks used and they also had this blue crap on them, guy claimed he also just ran distilled + nuke.

[Waterlogged]

2 words


Copper sulfate ;)

[Holst]

2 words


Copper sulfate ;)

Care to explain what you think it is?

Something alive?

[Waterlogged]

It's simple, too much copper sulfate (base ingredient in PT Nuke) for it to stay diluted (bluish tint is dead giveaway), that and combined with possible plasticizer leech makes for some pretty ugly looking loops. Even while the loop is running (if you have exposed copper in it), the water is eroding copper ions from the blocks that adds to the overall strength of the bio control, if your already close to being over the saturation point, a loop that's been running a number of months could erode enough ions to tip the balance.

[Holst]

It's simple, too much copper sulfate (base ingredient in PT Nuke) for it to stay diluted (bluish tint is dead giveaway), that and combined with possible plasticizer leech makes for some pretty ugly looking loops. Even while the loop is running (if you have exposed copper in it), the water is eroding copper ions from the blocks that adds to the overall strength of the bio control, if your already close to being over the saturation point, a loop that's been running a number of months could erode enough ions to tip the balance.

I have noticed a similar buildup on some of my old blocks (but not on the tubing) I guess this was because I used the same water for a very long time (three years + )

[bmaverick]

A while back, I had FluidXP + water wetter. This white chalky stuff coated my loop really bad like yours.

[DangerIsGo]

It seems no matter what i use..distilled water, distilled water + PT Nuke, distilled water + penstosin, distilled water + hydrix...I still manage to get stained tubing. Could it be any of the components? There has to be something to capture the eroding ions or prevent it, no?

I did use FluidXP for a few days but didn't notice any staining :P

[Waterlogged]

It seems no matter what i use..distilled water, distilled water + PT Nuke, distilled water + penstosin, distilled water + hydrix...I still manage to get stained tubing. Could it be any of the components? There has to be something to capture the eroding ions or prevent it, no?

I did use FluidXP for a few days but didn't notice any staining :P

If you use a super soft tubing like Tygon (and replace with every rebuild) it's very likely the tubing leeching plasticizer. Either switch to a different tubing (like Primochill LRT) or clean the tubing and reuse it. After a few cleanings, it will stop leeching and remain clear.

[DangerIsGo]

Thanks waterlogged. What about Feser tubing? Is that OK?

[Waterlogged]

Thanks waterlogged. What about Feser tubing? Is that OK?

:rofl: Your joking, right?:rofl:

Do a search for "Fester" and use my nick. . .you'll get the joke. ;)

[NaeKuh]

wait whats wrong with feser tubing?

its the only thing other them primochill i recomend.

[the finisher]

I have to say, I like my Fester UV tubing.:up: lol ;)

Got a fan of there's that's kinda of cool, if underwhelming, for the price.

Not a huge Primo fan either, but I buy their tubing.

[Gamb311]

So here was one of my GPU's and as you can see some nice dried up white flux. Assuming it's flux, how exactly do I clean this out without taking the block apart? Can I let some distilled/vinegar sit inside for a bit? Not sure how to clean this out. Simple distilled flushing does not work.

[Holst]

If it were me I would take it apart

[Waterlogged]

If it were me I would take it apart

+1 :yepp:

[DangerIsGo]

if it were me i would take it apart

+1:)

[brammers]

Disassembly + tooth brush.

J

[Gamb311]

Okay okay I shall take it apart!

[Quad-Damage]

It's simple, too much copper sulfate (base ingredient in PT Nuke) for it to stay diluted (bluish tint is dead giveaway), that and combined with possible plasticizer leech makes for some pretty ugly looking loops. Even while the loop is running (if you have exposed copper in it), the water is eroding copper ions from the blocks that adds to the overall strength of the bio control, if your already close to being over the saturation point, a loop that's been running a number of months could erode enough ions to tip the balance.

Think that could be to much pt nuke, I used about 6 drops last time, this time I will do about 2. I had the same blueish junk and my lines look like the others with the blueish white tint.

[thegcpu]

Vinegar Vinegar Vinegar!!

This just happened to me...
I poured Vinegar in the runing loop about 2 OZ and within 1 minute it was clear!!!!!

Look at the pics in this thread..

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=265078

[Waterlogged]

Vinegar Vinegar Vinegar!!

This just happened to me...
I poured Vinegar in the runing loop about 2 OZ and within 1 minute it was clear!!!!!

Look at the pics in this thread..

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=265078

The thing is, vinegar doesn't like some of the materials that are used for o-rings, so I actually advise against using it. Ever see a o-ring dissolve before your eyes?. . .I have and it an ugly mess to clean up too.

[CrazyNutz]

actually I dont think vinegar effects o-rings, alchohol yes but not vinegar, or any other acid.

I use vinegar exclusively and had no problems, just dont use it for too long, and it will eat the plating off your block if it is used too long. 10 mins should be long enough. Also flush very very well afterwards.

[Quad-Damage]

How are you guys cleaning your tubing. I have 1/4 3/8 OD tubing and I want to re use it but it's very dirty with whiteish blue gunk. Even my block still have black junk it in after a vinegar baths and Ketchup baths l cleaned with a toothbrush.

I'm going to get some copper cleaner like tran x at the hardware store on my lunch brake, I might get something I can clean the tubes with as well. What do you guys use?

[Quad-Damage]

I just bought new tubes and some TranX Copper cleaner for my block wish me luck!

[Waterlogged]

Quad, the black junk is from not neutralizing the acid from the vinegar when you were done cleaning it. Any time you clean with an acid, you need to neutralize it with a base (like baking soda mixed in water) it order to stop the chemical reaction.