Help me set up a loop?

[Khanhfucious]

Its been a LONG time since I did WC.

In running:

CM Cosmos 1000
Corsair 1000w PSU
eVGA x58 Classified 3-way SLI
Core i7-930 @ 4.0GHz
eVGA GTX480-SLI


Im looking for something thats complately enclosed in the case, and I really dont want to have to do tons of modification to the case since I work with my computer so I cant afford to have it down for too long..

[penguins]

EK Supreme HF
EK Fullcover for your x58
EK FC 480x2 or Swiftech MC80 + GTX480 unisink x2
Black Ice SR1 3x140(or another one go for the 560) + 140 rad stand

( or something similar to this, basically a rad stand out side the case)

[millertime359]

Well, if you can take your rig down for a weekend you can install both a MCR320-QP and a MCR220-QP internally.

That is what I did with mine. You can see the bottom rad mock-up here (http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showpost.php?p=4079901&postcount=74).

Here (http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showpost.php?p=4083118&postcount=87) is the hole for the MCR320.

Chassis (http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showpost.php?p=4089564&postcount=105) reassembled after powdercoating.

Final build (http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showpost.php?p=4093456&postcount=125)

I used a T3 as my res and pump top, but I would take a look at a Koolance RP-450X2 (http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_318_660&products_id=29333) or wait for the new DD series to come out. Word is those will be out before Christmas.

[xXGearheadXx]

Get the biggest Rad you can fit inside your case. I'm not sure what size that is (120.2 or 120.3), or if there's enough clearance for some of the double thickness rads (like the TFC xchangers).

A swiftech MCP350/355 is a good way to go on the pump. Good power, very compact, and very flexible on mounting options.

I like compression fittings because they're very easy to install and are very reliable. Koolance and Bitspower make good ones, but make sure you match your tubing to the correct size fitting.

Tagon tubing is best IMO. it's very flexible, and doesn't discolor over time like PVC tubing. Its also easier to fit onto your compression fittings. Just note the thinner varieties (1/16 wall thickness) will likely need some kink coil.

If you go the single loop route, that's an aweful lot to cool IMO...would you be totally against hanging a double rad off the back of the case? If you're OK with this, set up a dual loop system, 2 MCP 355s in an XSPC DDCbaytwo rez, one loop for the CPU...graphics, chipset, and VRM on the other.

Distilled water with silver kill coils or PT nuke. Don't spend $20/bottle for the coolant.

For the blocks, I like Koolance, but admittadtly I haven't used a ton of other mfg's blocks for comparison. Currently (on my x58 classy) I'm using a CPU360 block, VID480 for my graphics, and the Koolance chipset block...can't remember the model #. Just note the Koolance block doesn't cover the VRMs like some of the other mfgs do, in this case it may be better to go with the EK fullcover.

[Khanhfucious]

The only issue with your 220 placement..is Im running 6 hard drives and cant sacrifice the HDD cage.

[penguins]

Tygon is good, but does cloud up depending on which type you get, ( the most common do cloud ) something i just got into ( late as usual ) is Primochill Pro LRT 3/8 id 5/8 od. i haven't been able to kink this stuff, and i was trying. i still think your best bet is getting just a giant rad on a stand outside your case with Koolance Quick Disconnects and use the tube pass through in the top of the case. especially if you are only going to be able to fit 2x120 without any mods.

[millertime359]

That was about the only place to put a second rad then. You can't really put anything larger than a MCR320 up top without any heavy modification. I lost the top 2 drives bays from my setup and IFIC, I don't think a thick rad will fit up top with fans all mounted internally as there are MB clearance issues.

Depending on what you do with your rig, you might still get respectable temps with a single MCR320 and some fairly fast fans.

edit: I agree with Penguin though. You can even build a rad box. I have seen some really nice ones built out of wood that still look good when placed next to your case. And with the Koolance QDCs, you can separate the rad box from the rig without draining the loop to make it easy to move.

You can even mount your pump and res in the box with the rad if you don't want to loose any drive bay space.

[xXGearheadXx]

That was about the only place to put a second rad then. You can't really put anything larger than a MCR320 up top without any heavy modification. I lost the top 2 drives bays from my setup and IFIC, I don't think a thick rad will fit up top with fans all mounted internally as there are MB clearance issues.

Depending on what you do with your rig, you might still get respectable temps with a single MCR320 and some fairly fast fans.

A single MCR320 would be good for the CPU. CPU+Chipset+VRM+SLI GTX480s, I don't think you'd be too happy with the temps...they may be downright unacceptable.

[millertime359]

A single MCR320 would be good for the CPU. CPU+Chipset+VRM+SLI GTX480s, I don't think you'd be too happy with the temps...they may be downright unacceptable.

That's why I stated depending on what he is doing with his rig. He didn't state what he is doing with it. If it is a crunching/folding rig or benchmarker, yea it wouldn't be good at all. :)

[Khanhfucious]

Mainly Im a graphic designer. Now, my graphical projects dont stress the system. :p

I do game, I do Fold.

I did some quick measurements this morning and it looks like I have room for a 420 (3x140) up to 75mm thick with the fans. I dont know if that'll handle the load of teh whole system though?

I guess if I really had to, and I could make it clean, Ill hang a radbox off the back.

That brings me to blocks.

Is the FuZion still the best? Which SLI Blocks are ftw now? I dont have much options for the MoBo blocks huh?

Honestly I wouldnt mind leaving the MoBo cooling on Air for now.

[penguins]

cpu blocks: http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=254900
GTX 480 block round up: http://skinneelabs.com/gtx480-fc.html

3x120 rad round up: http://skinneelabs.com/triplesv2.html ( to help you figure out heat dissipation )

[millertime359]

If your only folding and not crunching together, I don't see why a 3x140 or a 4x120 wouldn't handle you. Worse case is you have to run some fast fans and turn them up when you do fold.

Also, seeing you want to keep everything internal and a 3x140 tends to be pretty equal in heat dissipation to a 4x120, you can always run that and if you don't like your temps or if the system is too noisy for you, you can then add another rad in a rad box. If you plan ahead and use Quick Disconnects in your system it would be really easy to add one in. :)

[Khanhfucious]

Hmm..

Koolance 360 for CPU
EK x58 for MoBo
EK 480 x2 for GPUs
??? 3x140 Rad. Thermochill?
Pump? Theres LOTS of flow restriction here..
Res? I might have to stick with a T-line..losing the top 2 5.25" bays means Im using the bottom 3 for my DVD drives..

[ggdh]

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=243977

I can't see the way to fit 420 rad especially with "minor" modifications :shrug:

EDIT: Radbox on the back. Gotcha :rolleyes:

[Khanhfucious]

The width restriction is in the bay, which is 5.25" or 133mm.

Crap. I see your point.

I guess a 4x120 would fit in between the drive rails. It gets REAL tight lenght wise.

a 2x140 would fit where the stock fans are up top.

[defect9]

you could by a temporary $30 computer case to drop the current rig into while you mod the case. it's not the optimal solution, but it does keep you from rushing things.

then you can disassemble the cosmos and get it powdercoated or at a minimum painted. mdpc-x has black flush/countersunk rivets for when you reassemble the case.

I also wouldn't go beyond a 3x120 in the top unless you want to get rid of the power panel. a 3x120 barely fits under the vent thingy, though I'd cut that thing up and make more airflow in it (specifically cutting out that part that has no function except to set your drink on. I'm pretty sure I saw this in a coolmeister build) and putting some kind of mesh grill there instead.

There's a lot you can do with minimal modding and patience.

[millertime359]

THe problems with fitting the 4x120 up top is getting airflow to the part of the rad that will be under the power switch and front USB plugs.

You would pretty much have to redo the whole case. I say you go the rad box route. It will allow you to keep the internals of the case clean and give your rad plenty of fresh air.

[Khanhfucious]

The issue with the radbox route is deskspace. I have none.

I may just buy another case, like a TJ07 maybe.

[ggdh]

I went through many Cosmos1000 worklogs and 3x120 + 1x120 on the back is an optimal setup. You can place SLIM 240 under the case as and addition. For some time I had 3 radiators, everything inside. Modifications: top for 360 (in my case was even harder as I got pa120.3 with 25mm spacing), bottom to fit 2x120 fans directly next to psu and 2 holes for barbs for 240 radiator (under the case), 1x120 fits with no issues on the back, I had slim rad but you can go with thicker. Now I had to re-do bottom of the case to accommodate thick 240 rad.
There are many many option with Cosmos1000. I would not ruin its look with external rad.

[Khanhfucious]

You think a 3x120 and a 1x120 will be able to handle the heatload? Should I be putting the back rad inside or outside the case?

I guess on the back I can run a 38mm fan, but on the top a 20mm fan will leave me with only 5mm between the fan and my RAM sticks as is so 38mm fans are out of the question.

Do you have pics of your setup with the 3 rad setup? Particularly on the 2x120 underneath.

[ggdh]

I was already looking for pics of 3-rad system but it seems that i don't have any. Regarding 240 on the bottom:
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_40L7h_SFpEw/S3chJLlU2vI/AAAAAAAAFqY/7jzcg2nQjqo/s800/IMGP9196.JPG
You can see tube coming out of res and going into the rad. The rad is directly underneath two GT fans sitting next to PSU. There is enough space between the radiator and floor (fans were pushing through radiator).

As for 1x120 rad - i was looking for any pic with no luck again, but it was the same that you can see on first pic in my worklog (sitting between two Noctuas). No modification was needed, as far I remember. In my case an issue was that I had barb of 360 rad on the back and it was very tight there = tubes routing was not easy. With my current setup I could EASILY add 1x120 rad (thick).
Be aware that fan grill on the back is not flat and you would have to cut it out in case of using 38mm fan outside.

And about heat load: i honestly don't know. In my case with fans on max I never ever had water warmer than 29*C at full load.

[Khanhfucious]

Dude. Can I give you a kiss for the sleeve job on that PSU? nohomo

[ggdh]

Kiss my res! ;)

[Khanhfucious]

Which Rad did you use on the bottom? It seems the Swiftechs are the thinnest at 35mm

[ggdh]

I think it was BlackIce GT 240mm which is even thinner.

[Church]

Swiftech MCR is 34mm thick. From rads with reasonable FPI there are also Black Ice Pro (29mm), XSPC RS (36mm), Magicool Slim (30mm) + few rads with extreme/too high FPI like Black Ice GTS / similar by Koolance of 30FPI & 30mm thickness.

[ggdh]

The biggest issue with my previous 240 rad was FPI. It was DAMN dense and GT800 were doing almost nothing.

[MagisD]

The biggest issue with my previous 240 rad was FPI. It was DAMN dense and GT800 were doing almost nothing.

Get Swiftech rads they work well with Gt'ss at 800 thats what I'm going to be running my 24 rad gts at ;-)

[avddreamr]

I'd invest in a Hdd-5x25 adapter. So you have the freedom to mount the dual rad on the bottom.
I would also consider getting the side panel from a cosmos S, to aid in air flow.
Then you can mount a single mrc320 on top, a 220 on the bottom, and a 120 on the rear.
Have them all suck in air, and utilize the S side panel to exhaust the air, with or without the 220/200 mm fan.
You'll have to dissipate over 500 watts of heat, and that is difficult to do silently.