Tips for installing GPU block & getting it into the loop. :)

[elbeasto]

I've just bought an EVGA GTX 470 and an EK-FC 470 because I managed to kill my GTX 260 whilst setting up my 1st loop. I can't figure out what went wrong, the system booted up fine but there was no signal going to the monitor...

Anyway I don't want to kill another card!

So any tips & or advice in terms of installing the block itself or in what order I should install fittings/tube before my block gets here would be muchly appreciated. :)

Like should I install the fittings & tube before I put the card in the mobo so I'm not trying to get the tube over the fitting while it's in the pcie slot? I thought this might prevent the card moving around or bending while getting the tube over the fitting.

Ta

[Russ_64]

I allways fit my tubing inside the case as you have to measure it correctly so as not to put strain on the card. Unless you are using 7/16 tube on 1/2 barbs it should be okay.

You more likely killed it when removing the HSF, cleaning and fitting the waterblock - do you take anti-static precautions such as wrist-strap? Handling PCB's, RAM, etc is always a risk ....

[elbeasto]

I allways fit my tubing inside the case as you have to measure it correctly so as not to put strain on the card. Unless you are using 7/16 tube on 1/2 barbs it should be okay.

You more likely killed it when removing the HSF, cleaning and fitting the waterblock - do you take anti-static precautions such as wrist-strap? Handling PCB's, RAM, etc is always a risk ....

No, I didn't take any-anti static precautions... :(

Would placing an anti static bag under it be enough, or should I get some gloves or wrist strap?

Ta for the reply :)

[Russ_64]

Depends where you live - some places have more static. We all have some electro-static in our bodies.... I allways use a wrist strap.

[SoulsCollective]

Measure twice, cut once. To take maximum precautions, mount block on card outside of case, attach fittings, position and install card inside case, attach tubing to everything else and mark correct length of tubing to stretch to card, remove card and hold or rest on something else so you've loads of slack, attach tubing, install card back in slot. Then leak-test for at least a few hours before powering system on.

Above poster is most likely correct about cause of damage to card being during HSF removal/block installation, although personally I'd worry much more about chipping the card or causing other physical damage than static damage, the risk of which is greatly overstated. Have you tried putting the stock cooler back on the 260 and testing it again? It could be the block was shorting some component.

[malkiewicz]

I never thought static would kill any of my cards until a few days ago... Ops... Now I have a dead card. I would highly recommend placing your card ontop of an anti static bag / non conductive matierial and make sure you are grounded...

[Alexandr0s]

I usually take of my shoes and socks. That allows most of the static to be dissipated. But yeah, even though it doesn't happen always, when it does, it sucks like hell :S. Better safe than sorry ;).

[elbeasto]

I never thought static would kill any of my cards until a few days ago... Ops... Now I have a dead card. I would highly recommend placing your card ontop of an anti static bag / non conductive matierial and make sure you are grounded...

Will do, thanks for the tip. :)


I usually take of my shoes and socks. That allows most of the static to be dissipated. But yeah, even though it doesn't happen always, when it does, it sucks like hell :S. Better safe than sorry .

Thanks for that, I'll be sure to have naked feet when installing the block! :)

& yeah it really does suck, it's my first loop & I was really happy with how it turned out for a first effort, (cept for the card!)



Measure twice, cut once. To take maximum precautions, mount block on card outside of case, attach fittings, position and install card inside case, attach tubing to everything else and mark correct length of tubing to stretch to card, remove card and hold or rest on something else so you've loads of slack, attach tubing, install card back in slot. Then leak-test for at least a few hours before powering system on.

Above poster is most likely correct about cause of damage to card being during HSF removal/block installation, although personally I'd worry much more about chipping the card or causing other physical damage than static damage, the risk of which is greatly overstated. Have you tried putting the stock cooler back on the 260 and testing it again? It could be the block was shorting some component.

Thanks for that Souls, the tube/fitting installation method you describe sounds very safe. :)

No, I didn't install the air cooler back on the card and test it, I was pretty disappointed at the time & didn't think to do that. I just took the block off and put the card back in the box.

[PiLsY]

Never ever place components on top of an anti static bag - the reason its contents are protected is because the outside is conductive to static. Same principle as EMI shielding - the charge is conducted and held in the outer layer so the inner contents are protected.

The best surface to use is a wooden or glass desk/table. If you are worried about static just ground yourself first - touch a radiator or water tap before starting work.

As said above, most likely caused by problems during removal/fitting process. As suggested above try the 260 again using its stock heatsink to see if you were shorting the card anywhere. This is often not terminal.

[Razrback16]

So any tips & or advice in terms of installing the block itself or in what order I should install fittings/tube before my block gets here would be muchly appreciated. :)

I can tell you the way I do it and you can decide what's best --

Remove stock hsf
Install Waterblock
Install fittings while card is still outside the case
* If possible, install the tubing and the barbs while outside the case if it's connecting to an easier, less fragile component (radiator, reservoir, etc.) that you can force on later without worrying about breakage
Install card in mainboard
Fill the loop and verify no leaks before power-up
Power-up

This has always worked well for me -- so far, knock on wood, I've never killed a piece of equipment from a waterblock installation. The most worrisome thing I ever did was direct-connect of tubing between two 4870s and then later 4890s in Crossfire. Obviously this had to be done manually forcing the tubing on while the cards were installed in the mainboard with the barbs already in place. Taking my time and going slow prevailed, so I always recommend that. :)

[elbeasto]

Never ever place components on top of an anti static bag - the reason its contents are protected is because the outside is conductive to static. Same principle as EMI shielding - the charge is conducted and held in the outer layer so the inner contents are protected.

The best surface to use is a wooden or glass desk/table. If you are worried about static just ground yourself first - touch a radiator or water tap before starting work.

As said above, most likely caused by problems during removal/fitting process. As suggested above try the 260 again using its stock heatsink to see if you were shorting the card anywhere. This is often not terminal.

Nice save!

I was going to put an anti-static bag under the card whilst instaling the block.
I think I'll go with a wooden chopping block now.

Thank you! :)


I can tell you the way I do it and you can decide what's best --

Remove stock hsf
Install Waterblock
Install fittings while card is still outside the case
* If possible, install the tubing and the barbs while outside the case if it's connecting to an easier, less fragile component (radiator, reservoir, etc.) that you can force on later without worrying about breakage
Install card in mainboard
Fill the loop and verify no leaks before power-up
Power-up

This has always worked well for me -- so far, knock on wood, I've never killed a piece of equipment from a waterblock installation. The most worrisome thing I ever did was direct-connect of tubing between two 4870s and then later 4890s in Crossfire. Obviously this had to be done manually forcing the tubing on while the cards were installed in the mainboard with the barbs already in place. Taking my time and going slow prevailed, so I always recommend that. :)

Sounds good mate, I already have tube cut to length with compressions in one end from the last time I had a card in there, so I was thinking:

install block
screw fittings in card with tube already attached
put card in mobo
attach tube to rad/cpu block (everything else is installed)
leak test
vudabar!

Ta very much for your input, I really appreciate it! :up: