pom or brass?

[elk0019]

i'm getting some blocks and there are models with pom and brass so i'm doing some research :yepp:

so pom is more harder plastic and brass is aloy of zinc and copper .....is there a substantial difference in temps or something else or is it just decorative?

getting blocks from mips-computer.com

[Stewie007]

I could argue durability. But honestly, POM is some pretty good stuff, and its cheaper.

[Tackleberry]

POM is better than arylic cos its less prone to cracking and temp. difference.
Acrylic is better cos its transparent. No diff. in temp performance here.

Regarding copper and brass.
Specific Heat Capacity brass 0.377 J/(g·K)
and copper 0.385J/(g·K).
That tell all:)

[ChielScape]

both as good for standard watercooling. just pick the prettiest/cheapest/whatever.

if you plan on chilling your water, get the brass. plastics, including POM get brittle in the cold.

[Stewie007]

both as good for standard watercooling. just pick the prettiest/cheapest/whatever.

if you plan on chilling your water, get the brass. plastics, including POM get brittle in the cold.

Indeed. Unfortunately, the VGA metal full cover blocks are still using POM at the inlets.

[ChielScape]

that shouldnt be too hard to fix with a piece of brass, a metal saw, a drill and a G1/4 tap set.

[Eddy_EK]

POM is better than arylic cos its less prone to cracking and temp. difference.
Acrylic is better cos its transparent. No diff. in temp performance here.

Regarding copper and brass.
Specific Heat Capacity brass 0.377 J/(g·K)
and copper 0.385J/(g·K).
That tell all:)

Specific heat capacity does not tell much here.
What is important is thermal conductivity:
Brass: 109 (W/mK)
Copper: 401 (W/mK)
Aluminum: 250 (W/mK)
Acrylic: 0.2 (W/mK)
Gold: 310 (W/mK)
Silver: 429 (W/mK)

[meanmoe]

Wow. I didn't realize that brass and copper where that different. Curiously, why don't we see more of a difference between brass and copper rads? e.g. Swiffy rads are mostly brass I think.

POM does look nice.

[Metric]

Wow. I didn't realize that brass and copper where that different. Curiously, why don't we see more of a difference between brass and copper rads? e.g. Swiffy rads are mostly brass I think.
My guess is since the tubes are around a millimeter or so thick, such differences in thermal conductivity are reduced/negligible when heat has to travel such a small distance (tube wall to fins). The performance difference between brass and copper will obviously get magnified when the material thickness increases such as seen with waterblocks.

[Shlomo]

All rads that I know of have brass tubing with copper fins, helps with the weight of the rad and costs.

[Eddy_EK]

I can tell you from first hand that the oval tube channels of the radiators are made of brass because if made of copper the thin wall (less then 0,5mm) would brake.
Therefore all of the radiators on the market have brass channels and copper fins.

[meanmoe]

oh, ok... thanks for the clarification.

[dro]

I'm a bit lost, which of the following metals are not allowed to be used together in a loop?
Brass & copper or Aluminum & Copper or Brass & Aluminum?

**sorry for noob-ness :(**

[Elpy]

Generally dont mix any different metals with each other however copper and brass cant be mixed since brass is mostly copper (besides it will be in the loop anyway since its used in all radiators.

So brass+copper = ok
aluminum + brass = not ok
aluminum + copper = not ok

Although ofc you can still mix them if you are using some anti-corrosion, but I'd suggest avoiding this if possible.

[eRazorzEDGE]

Here's a chart detailing the order of nobility. The higher on the chart, the more noble the metal. Placing Platinum with Magnesium in an electrolytic bath will result in some serious fun. :p

Galvanic Series Chart (http://www.pelaginox.com/data/d-galvanic.html)


Cathodic or noble end ( - )


Platinum
Gold
Graphite - note1
Silver
Titanium
Hastelloy C
Stainless steel type 312 (passive)
Stainless steel 317 (passive)
Stainless steel 316 (passive)
Stainless steel 304 (passive)
Stainless steel 302 (passive)
Inconel (passive)
Nickel (passive)
Silver Solder
Monel K-500
Monel 400
Cupro-nickel 70-30
Cupro-nickel 90-10
Nickel aluminium bronze
Silicon bronze
Copper
Aluminium bronze
Red brass
Admiralty brass
Yellow brass
Inconel (active)
Nickel (active)
Naval brass (aka Tobin bronze)
Manganese bronze - note 2
Muntz metal
Tin
Lead
Stainless steel 316 (active)
50-50 lead-tin solder
Cast iron
Wrought iron
Mild steel
Cadmium
Aluminium alloys
Aluminium (pure)
Galvanised steel
Zinc
Magnesium




Anodic or base end ( + )

[dro]

Thanks Elpy and eRazorzEDGE

Currently my loop consists of GTZ>EK 250 res>355 with xspc top>pa120.3
And they are connected by BP compression fittings.

My question now is, would it be safe to use Fitting G1/4" Thread - Dual Male / Male - High Flow (http://www.feser-one.com/site/product_info.php?cPath=78&products_id=312) in my loop?
Because it states in the web link that it's made of brass
And most of the product from Feser is made of brass

:help:

[Spawn-Inc]

Thanks Elpy and eRazorzEDGE

Currently my loop consists of GTZ>EK 250 res>355 with xspc top>pa120.3
And they are connected by BP compression fittings.

My question now is, would it be safe to use Fitting G1/4" Thread - Dual Male / Male - High Flow (http://www.feser-one.com/site/product_info.php?cPath=78&products_id=312) in my loop?
Because it states in the web link that it's made of brass
And most of the product from Feser is made of brass

:help:

yes, brass is safe in your loop with copper and such.

[eRazorzEDGE]

The basic idea behind the nobility of metals is that the further down the list you go, the more likely mixing that lower metal with another metal will result in corrosion.

Placing those two metals (actually three, you also have nickel as the plating metal on the barbs) in the same loop will not actually eat away at any of the metals. The bare copper will start to "corrode" over time, but it's a natural process that doesn't actually destroy the metal like rust does to steel; it protects it. But that's not a real concern. If you take your loop apart once a year (if properly setup), you'll find just a tad bit of gunk on the copper blocks that can easily be taken away with a wire brush, scotch-brite pad, and some white vinegar.

[dro]

Thanks guys

I never believe in mixing different brands of fitting together as I've heard that brand A is not as good as brand B
& that over time, brand A will degrade and affect the remaining components

***Sorry for my broken English, hope you guys got the message though.***

**And oh, no company names were mentioned to avoid controversy ;) ***