Advise new pump: MCP655 again or DDC?

[Pisklink]

At this moment I have a Swiftech MCP655 pump which probably died on me because it wouldn't turn on yesterday. I still have to take a look if it's in the warranty period. But I'm affraid the warranty period just past with a few months.

Consequently I'm looking for a new pump already. I can't decide between a MCP655 again or a Laing DDC-1Plus MCP355 12V (18W) with a top. I liked the variable RPM switch on the MCP655.

- Which is a good top to mount on the DDC? (EK-DDC X TOP Rev.2?)
- I dunno if an DDC with top would be too strong for my loop?
- Moreover would an DDC give to much flow and therefore not give the coolant a chance to warm up enough?

Thanks in advance for replying to my questions.

[Russ_64]

What setting were you using on the MCP655? I think the DDC-1Plus is about the same as setting 5 but you could get the DDC-1 (10w) which is abit weaker. The EK or XSPC top will actually increase the flow / pressure (and they look nicer too).

[Pisklink]

I was using setting 2 or 3 on the MCP655.

I also started to wonder how it is possible that this pump already died on me. Since I have this P6T-Deluxe for about 3 months now, my comp. POST twice. This is causing the pump to start up / shutdown and start up again. Could that be the cause that the motor gave up on me by receiving irregular current?

[jcool]

You can get a MCP350 with EK X_Top, very strong yet quiet pump. In case you need more performance you can easily mod the 350 to a 355, or if you want it to be inaudible, you can hook it up to a (beefy) fan controller and tone it down to 9-10V.

[Russ_64]

I was using setting 2 or 3 on the MCP655.

I also started to wonder how it is possible that this pump already died on me. Since I have this P6T-Deluxe for about 3 months now, my comp. POST twice. This is causing the pump to start up / shutdown and start up again. Could that be the cause that the motor gave up on me by receiving irregular current?

Do I understand correctly - only 3 months old and used twice ?

If so, RMA as it must be faulty and still in warranty !

[hellcamino]

Do I understand correctly - only 3 months old and used twice ?

If so, RMA as it must be faulty and still in warranty !

I took it to mean that the board double post but it's still awfully quick for a D5 to quit. I have a pair that have been working for almost 2 years now, still silent and plenty of flow.

[Pisklink]

Thanks in advance for all the replies.

@ Russ_64

I'm sorry, I obviously didn't explain clear enough. I bought this pump in january 2008 and built it into my old rig to test my first WC build and do some troubleshooting before putting everything into my new rig.
I have this new rig now for about three months (including P6T) and this mobo has double POSTing problems.

@ All

I just noticed yesterday that it didn't work anymore but didn't have enough time to check out the cause. So I will try the obvious options (like checking molex, checking variable RPM switch, checking PSU connection, etc.) before pulling it out of my machine.

I hope this double POSTing doesn't put to much stress on the motor because this could mean failure of a new pump as well.

[Scubar]

Cant go wrong with the MCP355 + XSPC Rev 3 Top. Looks better performs better and costs less than a D5 + Top.

What more can you possibly want ?

[Pisklink]

I know that an DDC + top performs better but I doubt it is necessary for my loop. My MCP655 was already overrated because I ran it on setting 2 or 3 out of 5 (= max). So if an DDC + top performs better and provides higher flow rates, I'm affraid the coolant won't have enough time to warm up yet which gives less efficiency. Or is that theory complete bull:banana::banana::banana::banana:?!? :)

[zanzabar]

You can get a MCP350 with EK X_Top, very strong yet quiet pump. In case you need more performance you can easily mod the 350 to a 355, or if you want it to be inaudible, you can hook it up to a (beefy) fan controller and tone it down to 9-10V.

dont do that u will kill it with under 10-11V

[The Water Dog]

I was using setting 2 or 3 on the MCP655.

I also started to wonder how it is possible that this pump already died on me. Since I have this P6T-Deluxe for about 3 months now, my comp. POST twice. This is causing the pump to start up / shutdown and start up again. Could that be the cause that the motor gave up on me by receiving irregular current?

Then the pump have a bad motor from the start since jeg had had mine now for 3 years and i restarts up to 20 times on one day.
If i oc and are benching,

[antiacid]

I know that an DDC + top performs better but I doubt it is necessary for my loop. My MCP655 was already overrated because I ran it on setting 2 or 3 out of 5 (= max). So if an DDC + top performs better and provides higher flow rates, I'm affraid the coolant won't have enough time to warm up yet which gives less efficiency. Or is that theory complete bull:banana::banana::banana::banana:?!? :)


No.

After you let the loop settle to equilibrium, having more flowrate means that more water particles can be affected by the point source of heat and carry that heat to the radiator. In effect, you could say that it keeps your block cooler because there is more cool water per amount of time coming into the block. Of course, you have to consider the limit of heat dissipation of your rads ;)

[Pisklink]

Thanks for the replies.

Luckily I can return the pump to my webshop and get a new one based on warranty while the end of the warranty period was 3 months ago. So thumbs up for that webshop. :up: Thank you very much!!!!

I was wondering about new tubing since I have to take apart my loop for sending back my pump. At this moment I use Feser One but read several stories around the board about gunky stuff getting into the CPU block because the additives fall apart (e.g. here (http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=226632&page=7)). Does PrimoFlex Pro LRT tubing with demi water suffice to prevent the gunky stuff and won't the tubing become cloudy with Primochill? Is PT Nuke still necessary?

[gOtVoltage]

I use a regular 655 with a huge double tripple loop... I can clock just about anything with High volts and or High Clocks.



The variable Adjuster or Pot/pcb ,,may of burnt it self out by using a medium setting. It can happen seeing its resisting 12volts down to run at lower speed.

Ive had over 10 655B's for numurouse builds and all are Regular12v NON Variable pumps .

Variable Adjustment/circiute is One more thing that can go wrong besides having a dirty loop..

Those do have a warranty. . Even the Box says 5years reliable.

@swiftech the Notes say 5year Lifetime.

If you have a swifty ask Gabe.

[ILikeCosmosS]

is there really a big difference between the non vario and vario mcp655's ?
very pressured loops require ddc but others do not

koolance 350 cpu loops have ddc's because of it being restrictive

[zanzabar]

is there really a big difference between the non vario and vario mcp655's ?
very pressured loops require ddc but others do not

koolance 350 cpu loops have ddc's because of it being restrictive

the 355 with top is always better performance than a 655 for liquid cooling a computer. and the vario has the 5 speeds, not that u should anything but 5 unless u are bleeding and the non vario is the same but its speed 4 only.

[Nightstar]

Hopefully your pump problem is just a bad connection. If it's not I'd recommend an mcp350(DDC3.1) with or without a top depending on what is more convenient to plumb for your setup. Since you were using your 655 on 2-3 flow will not be an issue nor will pressure even using the stock top.

I have 2 mcp350s in series(stock tops) and they are very quiet and reliable (one is 5 years 24/7), though the newer one did come with a dodgy molex connector.

[Pisklink]

I hope I have some time this evening to check the molex connector from the pump as well as checking a different PSU connector. However I don't think this is the problem.

As I said in my previous post I'm glad I can return my pump and receive a new one without any financial consequences. I just need to make sure that it is broke and therefore I want to check the connections.

Anyone who can answer this question? I was wondering about new tubing since I have to take apart my loop for sending back my pump. At this moment I use Feser One but read several stories around the board about gunky stuff getting into the CPU block because the additives fall apart (e.g. here (http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=226632&page=7)). Does PrimoFlex Pro LRT tubing with demi water suffice to prevent the gunky stuff and won't the tubing become cloudy with Primochill? Is PT Nuke still necessary?