Floor fountain as passive radiator

[iandh]

I was thinking about building a slate floor fountain for my new apartment, something similar to this one:

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn33/iandh27/20-2458-sysimagelarge.jpg

I realized that since it was only going to be running when I was at home, just like my computer, I might as well take advantage of it.

I already know this will work, but one complete I'll do some testing to get an idea of its total heat dissipation capabilities. I have a feeling just from what I know about cooling industrial equipment using small evaporative coolers at work that this should handle a couple hundred watts, the delta is what remains to be seen once the base reservoir, slate, and river rock come up to temp.



Anyways, discuss...

[Hondacity]

the more the area..the better the cooling...you're prolly right about the hundred watts...

[MpG]

So is the water going to be flowing over the plates, and exposed to the air? Because then you'd have evaporation and contamination issues to deal with.

[I34z1k]

Contamination issues? Hmmm what about bong coolers?

[MpG]

If the water is exposed to air, I expect it will gradually pick up dust and impurities. I can't speak for it personally, since all my loops have been sealed. Maybe it takes months before it's an issue? Additionally, since only the water evaporates, anything else will get left behind. Might be some build-up after awhile, not necessarily in places that are easy to clean out.

[Spoiler]

My first water cooling setup had a small garbage can(plastic) being using as a reservoir/pump station exposed to the air at the top. :rofl:

My home wasn't too dry, so I only had to add water a few times a month. The buildup of crap on my WC equipment was horrible though. I had to flush and clean everything quite a lot. Even after flushing the system, it was a lot of hard work cleaning the dang thing.

[ecat]

Open systems get dirty quite quickly, but after a while the build up seems to level off. Still, I'd recommend using something like these paper filters on the pump inlet.
http://www.poolfilters.biz/

Some sort of biocide may also be a good idea but be warned: As the water is constantly evaporating you should be very thorough in researching potentially harmful effects of any additives you care to use, with an open system you will be breathing in these additives on a regular basis.

[Mech0z]

Couldnt you install a filter beneath the rocks? As its not a closed loop the gravity will help get the water through the filter

[trueg50]

Very cool.

Definitely make sure you use some sort of filtration, and some silver coils for it.

Can't wait to see the results.

[Extigy]

As has been said, add a filter, some silver coils and this should make for an interesting build! I would go for black tubing however. Even with filters and anti bacterial additives, the water will probably stil get dirty and stain.

[NaeKuh]

iandh same principle as a bong cooler.

so couple hundered watts? no bro, id say by looking at your size dimensions, you'll do 1000+W easily.

Problem is the humidity will skyrocket depending on heat load, and your gonna need to top it off and you will get hard water stains.

[eponymous]

You can get anti-algae filter systems for garden ponds which may be useful to you. You generally have a large reservoir with a filtration system in it as well as a UV light. They really work well.

[Johnny Bravo]

why not have two isolated loops via a heat exchanger that way you minimize contamination of your PC waterloop and can put whatever in the fountain loop to stop algae bloom?

[iandh]

So is the water going to be flowing over the plates, and exposed to the air? Because then you'd have evaporation and contamination issues to deal with.

That is my goal :D


If the water is exposed to air, I expect it will gradually pick up dust and impurities. I can't speak for it personally, since all my loops have been sealed. Maybe it takes months before it's an issue? Additionally, since only the water evaporates, anything else will get left behind. Might be some build-up after awhile, not necessarily in places that are easy to clean out.


Couldnt you install a filter beneath the rocks? As its not a closed loop the gravity will help get the water through the filter

It seems that most of the higher end fountains have some type of filtration, so I definitely will be doing something here.

I will probably make up a housing for a filter bag down inside the base somewhere: http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/115/376/=1zibfz

They give you the best of both worlds... high flowrate and high filtration, plus they have a huge crap capacity before getting clogged up.


Open systems get dirty quite quickly, but after a while the build up seems to level off. Still, I'd recommend using something like these paper filters on the pump inlet.
http://www.poolfilters.biz/

Some sort of biocide may also be a good idea but be warned: As the water is constantly evaporating you should be very thorough in researching potentially harmful effects of any additives you care to use, with an open system you will be breathing in these additives on a regular basis.

I plan on building a small scale inline active copper-silver ionization system that runs from a molex, they make similar things for swimming pools and drinking water: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Copper-silver_ionization


iandh same principle as a bong cooler.

so couple hundered watts? no bro, id say by looking at your size dimensions, you'll do 1000+W easily.

Problem is the humidity will skyrocket depending on heat load, and your gonna need to top it off and you will get hard water stains.

That's why this works so well for me, I live in the desert (like next to death valley type desert) so it is bone dry here. I will have an AC unit instead of evap cooler (the norm for here), so humidity is actually a requirement. That is why I got started on the fountain idea even before my computer got involved.

The main reason that I haven't done a bong cooler is that they are fugly and a decent looking one would be $$$$, whereas this could be build for the price of a sturdy bucket, four slate tiles, and some copper tube and elbows. I already have the submersible pump.

I am going to be starting with DI water from work, so calcium/etc shouldn't be a problem, only the dust/crap in the air (which is quite a bit since it is so dry here). It may actually even act as an air filter, trapping all of the garbage from the room in its filtration system.



You can get anti-algae filter systems for garden ponds which may be useful to you. You generally have a large reservoir with a filtration system in it as well as a UV light. They really work well.

I will look into these, although if my copper-silver ionization system works out it may not be needed.


why not have two isolated loops via a heat exchanger that way you minimize contamination of your PC waterloop and can put whatever in the fountain loop to stop algae bloom?

Excellent idea, I had considered this for an old project but not yet for this one. This might do, available in all 1/2" NPT female so very easy to adapt to:
http://cgi.ebay.com/10-Plate-Brazed-Heat-Exchanger-Home-Heating-Boiler_W0QQitemZ250369111018QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_ DefaultDomain_0?hash=item3a4b2973ea&_trksid=p4634.c0.m14.l1262&_trkparms=%7C301%3A1%7C293%3A1%7C294%3A30

[NaeKuh]

http://www.thatpetplace.com/images/presentation/P32618.jpg

UV sterilizer around 9W or greater, something like this would be recommended iandh.

[iandh]

http://www.thatpetplace.com/images/presentation/P32618.jpg

UV sterilizer around 9W or greater, something like this would be recommended iandh.

I'm guessing this will be my easiest bet until I get some type of ionization thing going.