Advice on Dual Loop i7, Before Purchase

[ML Infamous]

Case: Cooler Master COSMOS Black Label Edition
Power Supply: Corsair 1000HX Modular
Motherboard: EVGA LGA 1366 Intel x58
Processor: Intel Core i7 920 2.66GHz
Memory: Corsair Dominator 6GB (3 x 2GB) 1600MHz
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 285
Sound Card: AuzenTech X-Fi Prelude
Hard Drive: Western Digital VelociRaptor 300GB 10,000 RPM
Hard Drive: Western Digital VelociRaptor 300GB 10,000 RPM

The Western Digital VelociRaptors will be in Raid 0.
I plan to add an additional EVGA GeForce GTX 285 in the near future.


Loop 1
Radiator: Feser X-Changer 240mm
Reservoir: Swiftech MCRES Micro Revision 2
Pump: Laing DDC-3.2 (18W) 12V
Pump Top: EK-DDC X-Top Rev2 Acetal
CPU Block: Heatkiller CPU Rev3.0 1366 LT
CPU Back Plate: Heatkiller Backplate 1366

Loop 2
Radiator: Feser X-Changer 240mm
Reservoir: Swiftech MCRES Micro Revision 2
Pump: Laing DDC-3.2 (18W) 12V
Pump Top: EK-DDC X-Top Rev2 Acetal
GPU Block: EK-FC285 GTX SLI (Acetal/Nickel)

Loop 3
Radiator: Feser X-Changer 120mm
Reservoir: Swiftech MCRES Micro Revision 2
Pump: Laing DDC-3.2 (18W) 12V
Pump Top: EK-DDC X-Top Rev2 Acetal
NB/SB Block: Bitspower Black Freezer EIX58NS
Mosfet Block: Bitspower Black Freezer MOS EI58DP

Case Fans: Yate Loon D12SM-12 70.5CFM
Radiator Fans: Yate Loon D12SH-12 88CFM

Tubing: PrimoFlex Pro LRT Tubing 7/16 ID x 5/8 OD
Barbs: Danger Den "Fat Boy" 1/2 OD
Clamps: Breeze Miniature Hose Clamp 7/16in to 25/32in

Coolant: Distiled Water and Silver KillCoils by IandH

The loop will likely go, Radiator - Reservoir - Pump - Blocks. I would prefer Reservoir - Pump - Radiator - Blocks, but its unlikely I'll be able to set it up like that in my case.

I will have a T-Fitting in each loop going to a fillport that will be used as a drain.

Any other advice or comments are greatly appreciated.

[Jhors2]

That looks like a great setup. Only thing I would recommend is instead of the 100 res you just get the XSPC res top and save yourself some space while increasing the pressure of the DDC, other than that looks good to me! :up:

[ML Infamous]

Thanks, I looked at the Reservoir Top, but I like the looks of the EK Reservoirs, and I've seen quite a few pictures where they look great in the case.

They will be mounted nearly directly above the pumps anyhow..

[Hondacity]

xspc top is good, but the ek xtop v2 is better. http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=de&u=http://www.dexgo.com/index.php%3Fsite%3Dartikel/view.php%26rubrik%3DHardware%26id%3D328&ei=F_-0SYrtDteitgeZ4KDqDA&sa=X&oi=translate&resnum=1&ct=result&prev=/search%3Fq%3Ddexgo%2Blaing%2Btop%2Breview%26hl%3De n%26sa%3DG

also you don't need pentosin..its anti-freeze. contains glycol which isn't safe...

coolant: distilled water

for anti-bacteria: use true silverbarbs...or silvercoils at petras

[biggles1]

Well, I thought he wanted the T-line for draining, and that can still be usefull, reservoir or not...

[dreamaxx]

Hey honda, when is the EK one going to become available? Its still only a prototype right?

[Jhors2]

xspc top is good, but the ek xtop v2 is better. http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=de&u=http://www.dexgo.com/index.php%3Fsite%3Dartikel/view.php%26rubrik%3DHardware%26id%3D328&ei=F_-0SYrtDteitgeZ4KDqDA&sa=X&oi=translate&resnum=1&ct=result&prev=/search%3Fq%3Ddexgo%2Blaing%2Btop%2Breview%26hl%3De n%26sa%3DG

also you don't need pentosin..its anti-freeze. contains glycol which isn't safe...

coolant: distilled water

for anti-bacteria: use true silverbarbs...or silvercoils at petras

Whats the comparison to the res top though?? that flows better than the standard XSPC top.

[biggles1]

Hey honda, when is the EK one going to become available? Its still only a prototype right?

Nope... http://ekwaterblocks.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=25_49&products_id=313

[dreamaxx]

I want the XSPC top so that I can put cute little LEDs in it ;)

But interesting review nonetheless:)

[headala]

Looks great to me, though I agree that the Pentosin is not needed if you're going to use PT Nuke or silver.

[ML Infamous]

Alright, I read the review and updated my original post.

Also is there any difference between the Heatkiller CPU Rev3.0 and the LT model, I realize one has copper the other has acetal but will I see any gain between the two.


Edit: The fillports are only going to be used to drain the system, I was going to have them at the bottom of the loop split off by a t-fitting. They would likely end up at the bottom of my case so I figured I could just unscrew them over a bathtub to drain.

[ILikeCosmosS]

great also i your not gonna use the top spot on your ek res you can use that as a fill port

use a T-line and a koolance qdc or ball valves(qdc is safer to me)

[ML Infamous]

I considered having a fillport into the reservoir but the way I'll have the loop set up, the top will be used.

*Still trying to find a review or something about the Heatkiller CPU Rev3.0 and the LT model of it, I like the LT because of the black/silver would look nice in the Black Label Cosmos, but if I lose a noticeable amount of heat dissipation its not worth it.

[iro]

so TFC 240 is good enough to cool and i7 920?

[Hondacity]

so TFC 240 is good enough to cool and i7 920?

you need fans...

[ML Infamous]

I'm fairly certain a TFC 240 can cool an i7 without any issues, I could be wrong.

[iro]

well of course it needs fans rofl. but everytime i read about new wc system they always advise a 360

[ML Infamous]

I always thought a 360 was overkill for just a CPU loop..

[Vapor]

I always thought a 360 was overkill for just a CPU loop..Totally depends on the fans you use.

For a lot of people, the small added expense of a 3x120 vs. a 2x120 (and the additional price of a fan) is worth the (smallish) drop in temps at the same noise level, or allows them to go to slower fans with the same cooling ability :)

[Utnorris]

Ok, if you will be overclocking this board you may want to cool the mosfet/vr's. Mine get crazy hot overclocked, like 80c and now that I have them watercooled, they sit around 48-52c. Just a thought.

[Utnorris]

Also, instead of using a T-line to fillport for a drain, use a T-line with a quick disconnect on it. It is easier to drain and it takes up way less space.

[ML Infamous]

As for the board getting hot, I'm not sure how I'll overcome that, I don't have much more cash to throw at cooling it.

[ML Infamous]

Added a loop to cool the Mosfets and NB/SB, and changed the reservoir.

I think this will be my final revision on it unless something NEEDs to be changed.

**Now I just need to figure out how to place it all into a COSMOS 1000.

***Also does anyone know of a way to control and monitor the fan speeds and temperatures.

****Lastly, how much tubing should I buy?

[ILikeCosmosS]

Also, instead of using a T-line to fillport for a drain, use a T-line with a quick disconnect on it. It is easier to drain and it takes up way less space.

+1
thats teh same thing use a T connector with a QDC

[ML Infamous]

Original Post Updated, very close to buying.

[ML Infamous]

Also, I have a few questions if someone could answer it would be greatly appreciated.

What QDC would you recommend, and how do I go about adding one into my loop?

Does anyone have any suggestions on a good way to Control and Monitor the Fan Speeds and temperatures?

Any idea on how much tubing I should buy for all three loops?

Could I use Low Speed Yate Loons in the Case instead of Medium Speed, and then use Medium Speed on the radiators instead of High Speed?

[headala]

Whoa, this is your first time WC'ing and you're doing 3 loops? I hope you have a positive experience, but I fear it will be frustrating. :(

Do you want automated control, or manual (something that will monitor your temps and adjust fans automatically or something with knobs that you move when you're gaming)?

The answer to what you use to control fans will answer what kind of fans you buy.

The Koolance QDC's work well. Buy a Delrin T or a cube (fittings on each side) and put the male part of the fitting on it. Then attach the female when you want to drain.