1/2" or 7/16"? [Archive] - XtremeSystems Forums

eponymous

03-02-2009, 03:40 PM

My second poll. Need to finalize the tubing diameter and I'm not sure which to go with...

Utnorris

03-02-2009, 03:50 PM

Depends on what fittings you want to go with. If you are doing barbs, go with 7/16". If you plan on doing compression then figure out the fittings you want and get the tubing for it.

eponymous

03-02-2009, 03:58 PM

Depends on what fittings you want to go with. If you are doing barbs, go with 7/16". If you plan on doing compression then figure out the fittings you want and get the tubing for it.

Thanks :)

Xphobe

03-02-2009, 03:59 PM

7/16" has a much better tighter fit over barbs then 1/2", as 7"16" stays flush with the inner diameter of the barb fittings while 1/2" has a bit of a gap.. as Seen in THIS (http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=157370) thread..............

Thanks in large part to Gary at SidewinderComputers.com (http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/tubing.html)

Barb Compatibility:

As most folks know, 7/16" tubing fits snugly enough over 1/2" barbs that it forms a water-tight seal without the need for clamps. The picture below illustrates the difference in how snugly 1/2" and 7/16" tubing fit over a typical 1/2" barb.

http://members.shaw.ca/virtualrain/tubing/tubing-barb1.JPG
http://members.shaw.ca/virtualrain/tubing/tubing-barb2.JPG

For those people considering compression barbs, such as those made by Koolance (which I am very partial to)...

http://www.koolance.com/shop/images/nzl-v13kg_02.jpg

You should note that you can only use thin-wall 1/2" tubing with their 1/2" compression fittings. You can also use 7/16" ID - 5/8" OD but it fits so snugly it will be frustrating and possibly damaging to get tightened or untightened. I really recommend 1/16" wall thickness tubing with Koolance 1/2" compression fittings which really limits your tube routing to large bends.

The 3/8" Koolance compression fittings are compatible with all 3/8" ID - 1/2" OD tubing.

The End!

Hopefully there's something useful in here for you... if you have a specific question about any of the tubing samples reviewed here, I'll be happy to try and answer it.

Cheers,
-Chris.

bot@xs

03-02-2009, 04:21 PM

biggles1

03-02-2009, 10:00 PM

thats on 1/2 barbs.
a 7/16 tube will sit just as lose on a 7/16 barb as a 1/2 ID tube does on a 1/2 barb.
the point is to use a smaller tubing ID on a bigger barb in order to have the tube fit snug or very tight even thou it is actually to small for the barb.

edit: but i haven't seen any 7/16 barbs. my point was pointless =)

It's not every day you can show someone something new... ;)

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=24268

7/16 - FTW!

bot@xs

03-02-2009, 10:48 PM

It's not every day you can show someone something new... ;)

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=24268

7/16 - FTW!

:up: bingo

Linux_Box

03-03-2009, 07:29 AM

7/16" work very well and give me much better peace of mind. I use clamps but the tighter fit has removed the only leak problem I've experienced (using 1/2" and clamped).

Floppydizz

03-03-2009, 08:21 AM

3/8's ftw

NaMcO

03-03-2009, 08:34 AM

I always thought 1/2" is too large and screws up lots of builds that otherwise would look awesome. Like Floppydizz said, i also think 3/8" is the way to go. It's not a straw and it doesn't ruin the looks of a watercooled rig.

3Z3VH

03-03-2009, 09:05 AM

1/2" tubing exclusively with wire ties and I have no leaks. With the 1/2" BP barbs, not a problem. I don't like fighting 7/16" tubing whem removing it from chipset/mosfet blocks and such. Distrubs the mounts to much with all the twisting and turning to remove 7/16" tubing from 1/2 BP" barbs. Nice way to crack a NB or MOSFET chip too.

andyc

I always thought the rule of thumb was to put the hoses on before mounting the block... :shrug:

3Z3VH

03-03-2009, 09:51 AM

I always remove a block before removing the tubing from it.

In the case of tight bends, you simply start by mounting the block in the tightest area (tubing already attached), then mount the next easier block, and so on... If doing MOSFETs and NB/SB blocks, I would start by mounting the MOSFET block closest to the IO plate on the motherboard, then mount the MOSFET block on the top edge of the board, then the NB, then SB... then you install the mobo in the case and plug in your GPUs and such.

The tubing rarely gets in the way of me mounting the blocks if done in the proper order, because there is nothing in the way when I install them on the board.

I also do this because it allows me to leak-test before installing these on the board.

veedubfreak

03-03-2009, 10:52 AM

7/16" BP compressions with 7/16" masterklear tubing. No complaints at all.

mattgmann

03-03-2009, 12:02 PM

if they now have 7/16" barbs available, why not produce some 9/16" barbs to use with all the 1/2" tubing out there?

NaeKuh

03-03-2009, 12:50 PM

Because there's no need for it:shrug: The BP 1/2' fittings already measure 9/16 on the largest barb. That's why I keep saying that's all you need. BP 1/2" fittings and 1/2' ID tubing with wire ties. When you crank those ties down right on the BP fitting, you can pick the case up by one of the tubes connected without it coming lose.

andyc

You need to tell then about 50 more times.

Trust me, ive been there.

Only after the 49th time people actually understand, and 50th time they accept it.

:rofl: