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rioja
02-05-2009, 02:30 PM
Hello
I'm making dual loop setup and just now realized very sad detail. One of the new EK Multioption 150 Res is not waterproof! In place where top cover threaded with the tube itself I saw air bubbles. You may see this place at pic.
There are o-ring installed and it looks ok, but regardless how tough it threaded, it is leaking. I tried place this cover on another end of res and to another res, but it is leaking in the thread itself.
Is it bad quality? What may I do to make res waterproof?
RMA is not possible for me.

http://img223.imageshack.us/img223/935/97040352xw7.png

BlueAqua
02-05-2009, 02:40 PM
Usually the O ring should stop any water from coming out. If water is moving through the threads it should hit the O-ring before it could possibly come out. Sometimes you either have a pressure or vacuum effect in your res which may cause fluid to move through the thread area.

Is it coming through the acrylic? Are you using the top port as an inlet? And if you're not, why do you have the water that high?

upsidedown
02-05-2009, 02:43 PM
http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/homemaintenance/plumbing/images/teflon.jpg
ugly but useful =)

Garrett
02-05-2009, 02:48 PM
Does it actually come OUT of the reservoir?

T_Flight
02-05-2009, 02:50 PM
My water has also migrated into the threads but the O-Ring stops it dead cold. I have mine filled to the top also and have a T-Line with a few inches of water in it, and have not seen any leaks.

If the loop is dry right now (which it looks like it is in the pic) then inspect O-rings for damage. If you overtightened you may have damaged them. Alot of these parts don't require bear strength tightening. They just need full O-ring contact and compression. I also lube my O-rings on everything before assembling to prevent the O-ring from grabbing and tearing or damaging the surface of the O-ring. You can actually see a bit of gap in the top and bottom of my EK Res where the O-ring is compressed.

swale
02-05-2009, 02:51 PM
This has happend to me with the ek res and I have had a few of em' its air preassure undo the cap whilst you bleed close it off if you need to give the system a shake as you do to coax the air out then undo and repeat until fully bleed.

warriorpoet
02-05-2009, 03:00 PM
...these parts ... require bear strength tightening.
T_Flight: strong like a bear

swale
02-05-2009, 03:02 PM
and they shoudln't need to be wrenched up just tight or youll never undo it at a later date when a little vacum enter the scene....this happened to me also ;)

rioja
02-05-2009, 03:10 PM
Here is how it gonna be

http://img6.imageshack.us/img6/258/img46661cl8.jpg

1st loop is for cpu, pwm, nb and sb, 2d loop is for gfx.
Pumps are in the drive bay at bottom.
So in the res I use bottom side fitting for inlet and bottom down fitting for outlet.

Well, I've tried o-ring from the second res, and it's leaking. I've tried even 2 -rings :) It's strange but leak goes from thread, and o-ring is not working here. No matter how strong or not strong tighten it.
Loop is not filled and it still under construct, but I test parts utself.

So this is not rare situation? And I may use sealing tape or some kind of proofing compound, right? Someone used it?

It's bad when a brand new thing is broken even before first launch.

PS I saw again at good res how it works - even when cover tightened not at full, it's sealing already.

T_Flight
02-05-2009, 03:38 PM
Is it possible the machining might be defective on the surface where the O-ring sits on that particular Res?

Maybe it's just a bad res. The only thing you could do there is RMA. It might be a good idea to speak with EK about this also. I haven't read about any of these ever leaking. This must be a rare thing to have happen.

hellcamino
02-05-2009, 03:48 PM
I would replace the O-ring if it won't seal, these reservoirs don't need to be very tightly capped. If you wet the O-ring prior to assembly it should seal with very little effort, you may have fluid work it's way up the threads (or down) but the O-ring should stop it.

Inspect your O-ring carefully for any damage and if it is damaged go to the hardware store and buy a new one to replace it, if your O-ring isn't damaged then you might try a slightly thicker O-ring.

rioja
02-05-2009, 03:59 PM
Is it possible the machining might be defective on the surface where the O-ring sits on that particular Res?

Maybe it's just a bad res. The only thing you could do there is RMA. It might be a good idea to speak with EK about this also. I haven't read about any of these ever leaking. This must be a rare thing to have happen.

Oh yes, your words make me do a little investigation, and I've found 2 small dents at the seat of the selaing.
This is it.

http://img201.imageshack.us/img201/5339/img46721al9.jpg

Obviously, this is machinery worked wrong. Luck is not on my side :rolleyes: At least,now I know the reason.

PS All o-rings are in good shapes, as I said I changed it with other res for experiment.

Xavior
02-05-2009, 04:04 PM
Is it actually leaking out of the res? My threads have some water in them as well, but it doesn't leak out.

hellcamino
02-05-2009, 04:15 PM
I would see about filling those holes in the seating area for the O-ring with silicone or something of that nature if you can't rma the part. Try putting some clear silicone in the pits (slightly overfill them) and then put the O-ring back in and let it setup over night and then see if it seals.

Great pic btw.

Webby
02-05-2009, 04:21 PM
Yeah either some clear silicone or some High vacuum grease (Like this from Dow (http://www.2spi.com/catalog/vac/dow.shtml)) it wont set but it will stay where you put it and stop any water from escaping, might be worth a try.

DarthBeavis
02-05-2009, 04:22 PM
T_Flight: strong like a bear

T-FLight: Always has lubez available

rioja, use a dremel to soften out that defect so the oring will still seal. You can fix it I think.

rioja
02-05-2009, 04:23 PM
yes, now it's clear. in good working res, water is stopped by those o-ring, even if water filles the threads itself. in my case, water goes under o-ring thru those two dents.
i'll try to use 2 drops of glue or some silicon to fill holes at first, in order to workout such an unexpectable issue.
thx u all.

see my updated worklog soon :wave:

warriorpoet
02-05-2009, 04:27 PM
T-FLight: Always has lubez available

rioja, use a dremel to soften out that defect so the oring will still seal. You can fix it I think.T-Flight: lubez da Bear :shocked:

:D

NaeKuh
02-05-2009, 04:41 PM
the oring sits on top of that groove.

damaged grove wouldnt do anything because the oring is on top of it.

Do you even have an Oring? thats what im wondering. Or can you try to strech your oring out and see if its cracked?

ahhhh reminds me of leakey canister filters back in the days. :rofl:

hellcamino
02-05-2009, 04:51 PM
ahhhh reminds me of leakey canister filters back in the days. :rofl:


You just upped my estimate of your age :ROTF:

fox3
02-05-2009, 04:59 PM
ahhhh reminds me of leakey canister filters back in the days. :rofl:

I've had a snail or two get by and foul the oring during maintenance before. :mad:

Sparky
02-05-2009, 05:28 PM
OK here is the thing - the threads on the EK res do NOT seal. That is normal. They are not tapered threads so they won't seal. What seals the res is the O ring. The water will get in the threads but the O ring stops the water from actually leaking out of the res.

If you take your res, fill it with water, screw on the cap - firmly but not crank it down, just so it is snug - and flip it upside-down, the water will get into the threads then stop at the O ring. The res is watertight, the threads are not.

DarthBeavis
02-05-2009, 07:00 PM
the oring sits on top of that groove.

damaged grove wouldnt do anything because the oring is on top of it.

Do you even have an Oring? thats what im wondering. Or can you try to strech your oring out and see if its cracked?

ahhhh reminds me of leakey canister filters back in the days. :rofl:

I know how to stretch out that oring . . . .double duty you might say

hotdun
02-05-2009, 08:02 PM
I know how to stretch out that oring . . . .double duty you might say

http://static.rcgroups.com/forums/attachments/7/7/3/1/2/a1792431-162-tiny%20o-ring.jpg

jellyrole
02-05-2009, 08:05 PM
I was just wondering, how many other people have had problems with these reservoirs?

Sadasius
02-05-2009, 09:07 PM
First time I heard a problem with this res other then getting one that is too small on too powerful of a pump and having a hard time bleeding the loop.

Sparky
02-05-2009, 09:16 PM
I still don't think it is a bad res. Just sounds very normal as long as it isn't leaking water outside the res then it is fine!

naokaji
02-06-2009, 12:03 AM
I used to have a ek tube res before I changed to a xspc res pump top to cut down on tubing and mess in the case, there was water at the threads, but it didn't actually come out.

T_Flight
02-06-2009, 02:31 AM
First time I heard a problem with this res other then getting one that is too small on too powerful of a pump and having a hard time bleeding the loop.

hehe :D That would be me. Remember that thread I had. I had to put a T-Line on top of mine. That cured that issue though. It also make the res look real nice. I'm gonna put lighting on it and the XSPC top it looks so nice. I had whitewater so bad it looked like a volcano in there! :eek:

The DDC3.2 pumps are no joke. Those things move some water. I don't have a single microfine bubble anywhere now after installing that T-line.

Sorry for thwe threadjack, but thought that may be helpful also. When you first start filling those thing and see how much water they draw down and the rush of water coming in it's just amazing. I knew what the numbers were and had studied things carefully, but seeing it in action was awesome. Now I can't tell it's even moving.

rioja
02-06-2009, 05:42 AM
Btw, my pump is simple DDC1-T 10W, with EK top G3/8. I hope it will be enough for D-Tek Fuzion and SB, NB, PWM blocks with PA120.3 rad.

How much water should I put into the loop? Is it better when res is full or when it have several cm with no water?

Sadasius
02-06-2009, 06:26 AM
Btw, my pump is simple DDC1-T 10W, with EK top G3/8. I hope it will be enough for D-Tek Fuzion and SB, NB, PWM blocks with PA120.3 rad.

How much water should I put into the loop? Is it better when res is full or when it have several cm with no water?

It's better to have the res full with a fill line attached to the top. Makes it bleed so much better without having water splashing out at ya.

Eddy_EK
02-06-2009, 06:58 AM
Hello
I'm making dual loop setup and just now realized very sad detail. One of the new EK Multioption 150 Res is not waterproof! In place where top cover threaded with the tube itself I saw air bubbles. You may see this place at pic.
There are o-ring installed and it looks ok, but regardless how tough it threaded, it is leaking. I tried place this cover on another end of res and to another res, but it is leaking in the thread itself.
Is it bad quality? What may I do to make res waterproof?
RMA is not possible for me.

http://img223.imageshack.us/img223/935/97040352xw7.png

I am sorry as I have not read all thread.
The o-ring is on top and water can get into the thread made in big acrylic tube. If you are sure it is leaking we can send you new top.

Best regards, Eddy

Sadasius
02-06-2009, 07:01 AM
I am sorry as I have not read all thread.

TSK TSK....You should have....He has a leak because he was throwing radioactive gerbils at it all night! :rofl:



The o-ring is on top and water can get into the thread made in big acrylic tube. If you are sure it is leaking we can send you new top.

Best regards, Eddy

Good job Eddy! The problem was actually tooling nicks under the O-ring preventing the O-ring from sealing. There saved you from reading about the gerbils! :ROTF:

rioja
02-06-2009, 08:31 AM
If you are sure it is leaking we can send you new top.

Best regards, Eddy

No problemo, I'll try to workout it by myself.
Btw, see I have thermosensor at the bottom? It was standart length I think but it couldn't be threaded into res at full because the antiwhirpool wall in the middle stops it. So I've had to drill a hole in it. So if someone wants to use res vertically with outlet as bottom down and have thermosensor, he need to mod res. Right?

Sparky
02-06-2009, 08:58 AM
No problemo, I'll try to workout it by myself.
Btw, see I have thermosensor at the bottom? It was standart length I think but it couldn't be threaded into res at full because the antiwhirpool wall in the middle stops it. So I've had to drill a hole in it. So if someone wants to use res vertically with outlet as bottom down and have thermosensor, he need to mod res. Right?

Depends on the sensor. Some are really long like that (I think alphacool's is the long one), Bitspower makes a shorter one that fits better.

mav2000
09-22-2010, 06:07 AM
Sorry to bring up an old thread...but I have the same problem...and I dont see any o rings on the res top...can someone show me a pciture of where they are supposed to be. EK have already told me that they are sending a couple of O rings across, as I could not find any while looking at the top.

Eddy_EK
09-22-2010, 06:09 AM
Sorry to bring up an old thread...but I have the same problem...and I dont see any o rings on the res top...can someone show me a pciture of where they are supposed to be. EK have already told me that they are sending a couple of O rings across, as I could not find any while looking at the top.

Hi!

Please send to EK support or info@ek... pictures of the reservoir top and bottom. We can check, as you might not be looking on right spot.

Best regards, Eddy

Toolius
09-22-2010, 06:29 AM
Mav2000 look very carefully under your tops.. the o rings are black and hard to make out but they are there :)
even i couldnt see them in the beginning because they are kinda pressed into the res top..
Cheers !!

rioja
09-22-2010, 06:34 AM
mmm.. what a smell of the old thread
btw i did fill those dents with automobil sealant and now after more than a year have no any issue