Not quite new, but not quite experienced.

[Sly Fox]

Built my first watercooling setup about 5 months ago. Been going strong since then without any leaks. :clap: So with that I'm fairly confident in my abilities despite the lack of aesthetics.

Now I find myself wondering if I shouldn't take the loop apart and rebuild it. Not solely to put in fresh water, but to upgrade some areas. In fact the water is still in good shape, distilled + Petra's Nuke (3 drops) has worked flawlessly.

But alas, I am still a newbie despite having a bit of experience under my belt now. :D So I'm going to go ahead and list a few queries I've developed over time.

1: http://www.petrastechshop.com/dadepocofig1.html
^^Are these the "compression fittings" everyones always raving about? They look awfully expensive to me but if they provide a perfect clamp and better reliability than traditional worm screws, then that would be fine. I want no leaks, ever, that's what I'm shooting for.

2: Is tygon really better than masterkleer? I used MK and found it to be alright, and I appreciated the price. But I also found that once you start bending it more than a little bit it tends to "collapse" on itself a little bit. Not enough to be THAT worrysome, but annoying.
-So in essence, should I spring on tygon? Or is it the same old stuff.

3: My MCRES has developed a few cracks. I know it's acrylic and can have a few cracks without falling apart, but should I replace it? I don't know much about acrylic, but it seems that if it's cracked a bit, it will only crack more into the future.

4: The Apogee GTZ. Is it really worth $65 if you already have a decent block? I realize my GT isn't exactly top of the line ball-bustingly incredible, but it seems to cool even a Q6600 fine.


Thank you for taking the time to read my long winded rant! :up: :ROTF:

[cdnbum88]

Compression fittings are cool looking, but they work great. I think they are worth the price. If you are on a budget, can be the first to go.

For the cost of a new resevoir, I would for a piece of mind just get a new one.

I can't speak to Musketeer, but Tygon is nice and I have had no issues with it.

As for the GTZ, I have it and it works great. Got it based on all the good reviews. I would run with that IMHO.

[Conumdrum]

1. They clamp no better. They look better tho.
2. Tygon is better. You didn't mention the tubing you have, thickness and inside outside measurements. Thicker wall kinks less.
3. Just watch for more cracks, get with Gabe at swiftech, send him pics of your res, he might ship ya a new one.
4. If your temps are fine no reason to UG the block. If you add a GPU block, just maybe, but not always.

[Sly Fox]

For the cost of a new resevoir, I would for a piece of mind just get a new one.

Agreed.


As for the GTZ, I have it and it works great. Got it based on all the good reviews. I would run with that IMHO.

Yea, I think depending on who decides to give me money on my birthday, I may or may not upgrade to it.


1. They clamp no better. They look better tho.

Are they a bit more foolproof at least? I don't know why, but I have very little confidence in myself. Everyday I worry "what if I didn't screw that worm clamp tight enough!!!" So anything that will give me piece of mind that it's a solid seal is good. :rofl:
*EDIT* And are they easy to tighten in cramped quarters? The main appeal to me is the idea of being able to setup all your blocks and whatnot FIRST, then put the tubing in. Is that possible
with compression fittings or are they just as hard to tighten as worm clamps? I hope this makes sense, I'm kinda tired today.


2. Tygon is better. You didn't mention the tubing you have, thickness and inside outside measurements. Thicker wall kinks less.

I have: http://www.petrastechshop.com/1id3odmagepu.html
Thinking about moving to: http://www.petrastechshop.com/1id3odtyr.html


3. Just watch for more cracks, get with Gabe at swiftech, send him pics of your res, he might ship ya a new one.

He's a member here isn't he? I can't recall his name but I remember seeing him post. I just hope he'd be willing to cross-ship or something. I can't have my loop out of order for weeks. :p:


4. If your temps are fine no reason to UG the block. If you add a GPU block, just maybe, but not always.

Good point. By the time I "need" a new block something even better might be out... Again, I think I'll wait and see what my money situation is in a couple days here.


THANKS AGAIN! To both of you.

[Deezle]

Tygon 3/8ID 5/8OD has a thick 1/8" wall to resist kinking, combined with 1/2" fatboy fittings, I can guarantee you wont have a leak there. There is no performance difference between 3/8, 7/16 or 1/2 tubing when using 1/2" barbs. Not to mention fatboys are way cheaper than compression fittings.
Here's a pic of 3/8 Tygon on 1/2" fatboy barbs.
http://img99.imageshack.us/img99/7021/hpim0579oc6.jpg

[Sly Fox]

Tygon 3/8ID 5/8OD has a thick 1/8" wall to resist kinking, combined with 1/2" fatboy fittings, I can guarantee you wont have a leak there. There is no performance difference between 3/8, 7/16 or 1/2 tubing when using 1/2" barbs. Not to mention fatboys are way cheaper than compression fittings.
Here's a pic of 3/8 Tygon on 1/2" fatboy barbs.

Those do look like a good seal, but they unfortunately also look really hard to put on. I wouldn't mind paying the price premium for compression if they are at least easy to use.

I'll certainly take it into consideration though. Thanks. :up:

[Deezle]

They're not too bad, a bit of hot water and they slide on pretty easily. Regular style barbs they go on pretty easy without any outside help.

[NameTaken45]

Those do look like a good seal, but they unfortunately also look really hard to put on. I wouldn't mind paying the price premium for compression if they are at least easy to use.

I'll certainly take it into consideration though. Thanks. :up:



if you take a cup of water, and put it in the microwave, then stick the tubing in the cup of hot water for about 15-20 seconds then try fitting it itll be easy.

[warriorpoet]

Yeah, 3/8" tubing isn't real tough with Fatboy or EK barbs. Swifty plasti-barbs and Perfect Seal barbs are a different story entirely.

[shazza]

Those do look like a good seal, but they unfortunately also look really hard to put on. I wouldn't mind paying the price premium for compression if they are at least easy to use.

I'll certainly take it into consideration though. Thanks. :up:


I use compression fittings primarily because I find them easier to use ... also because I tend to redo my loops more often than most people. The 45 degree fittings are also quite useful (although you don't have to use compression fittings to use them).

[cdnbum88]

You can put all your blocks on and then add the tubing with the compression fittings.

They go on pretty easy and the seal is good.

Only thing you need to look into is depending on your block or what you are putting the compression fittings on, that they don't bump against each other. They do not fit on the resevoir with the standard to barb positions. I have seen some people use on port on the button and the side.

There is a link somewhere in the site with matrix for most units.

[Waterlogged]

Only thing you need to look into is depending on your block or what you are putting the compression fittings on, that they don't bump against each other. They do not fit on the resevoir with the standard to barb positions. I have seen some people use on port on the button and the side.

There is a link somewhere in the site with matrix for most units.

Yep, here it is.

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?p=3540441

[John Planet]

I wouldn't mind paying the price premium for compression if they are at least easy to use.

Compression fittings are more than worth it if you're inclined to spend the extra cash. I have 4-sets in my current loop all with a zero failure rate. The tube-barb seal with compressions isn't just "good", it's idiot-proof.

Good luck with your refit, Fox. :up:

[Sly Fox]

if you take a cup of water, and put it in the microwave, then stick the tubing in the cup of hot water for about 15-20 seconds then try fitting it itll be easy.

I probably won't end up going with those style barbs, but I'll keep this in mind for the future. Thanks. :up:


Compression fittings are more than worth it if you're inclined to spend the extra cash. I have 4-sets in my current loop all with a zero failure rate. The tube-barb seal with compressions isn't just "good", it's idiot-proof.

Good luck with your refit, Fox. :up:

Idiot-proof is what I'm looking for. The less that can go wrong the better when you have water flowing around your computer parts.


Yep, here it is.

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?p=3540441

Well it looks like if I want to go compression fittings I'd have to get the GTZ. Which I think I might just do regardless because apparently it's much easier to mount as well.

I'm not quite understanding why they won't work with certain things though. The barb mounts are just so close together that the wideness of the compressions won't work?

If so, does anyone know if the Bitspower compression fittings will at least work with Tygon 1/2" ID on the MCW-30 block and MCR320 rad? The block is rather tiny so I fear it won't... But I don't see why it wouldn't work on the rad other than possibly fan clearance.

Thanks for all the responses, I may end up just not bothering with compression's if they won't work with my stuff... But hopefully they will.

[hellcamino]

@SlyFox, the 3/8" or 7/16" hose on 1/2" barbs is as idiot proof as it gets, as stated just heat some water in the nuke box and dip the hose end in if neccesary.

[Sly Fox]

@SlyFox, the 3/8" or 7/16" hose on 1/2" barbs is as idiot proof as it gets, as stated just heat some water in the nuke box and dip the hose end in if neccesary.

Fair enough, but part of what I want is the ability to mount the blocks and then apply hoses. Which is of course always "possible," but compression fittings sound like they would give me the easiest route here.

The cost isn't really a big issue especially now that I know I need 2 less (res).


I The 45 degree fittings are also quite useful (although you don't have to use compression fittings to use them).

Where would you find these 45 degree fittings? Or is that a capability of the normal ones I linked in the first post?

I could actually really use a 45 degree angle for my external rad going into the case. The tube is somewhat stretched in not the best angle as it is.

And, can you angle it whichever way you want? Or would it just screw in and face whatever angle?

[John Planet]

You can find a nice selection of fittings here. (http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=59_346_393)

edit:

BP 45's do spin once mounted.

[Sly Fox]

You can find a nice selection of fittings here. (http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=59_346_393)

edit:

BP 45's do spin once mounted.

Absolutely fantastic! Bookmarked, and thank you once more. :D

[Gunlance]

Regarding the tubing. I have had just about all types of tygon tubing and the price just does not justify what you get. When I built my first watercooling rig, I went with tygon and then went with masterkleer. I will forever go with masterkleer from now on. At 50 cents a foot, it's hard to go back to tygon.

[John Planet]

No problem, sir! :)

[Adamantine]

Tygon is slightly softer than Masterkleer so it bends slightly better but the Masterkleer definitely provides better value. 7/16" is pretty easy to get on metal 1/2" fittings, doesn't kink as easy, and if the pressure is low enough, so I see no reason at all to use 1/2" over 7/16". Plastic fittings are a massive pain to get the tubing on, literally and figuratively. With 7/16, compression fittings are probably only really useful on the pump and the rest can be used with zip ties. You don't need to have the zip ties on real tight to create a seal or to prevent the 7/16 coming off of 1/2 fittings as it's already on there pretty tight.

[NaeKuh]

1: http://www.petrastechshop.com/dadepocofig1.html
^^Are these the "compression fittings" everyones always raving about? They look awfully expensive to me but if they provide a perfect clamp and better reliability than traditional worm screws, then that would be fine. I want no leaks, ever, that's what I'm shooting for.

2: Is tygon really better than masterkleer? I used MK and found it to be alright, and I appreciated the price. But I also found that once you start bending it more than a little bit it tends to "collapse" on itself a little bit. Not enough to be THAT worrysome, but annoying.
-So in essence, should I spring on tygon? Or is it the same old stuff.

3: My MCRES has developed a few cracks. I know it's acrylic and can have a few cracks without falling apart, but should I replace it? I don't know much about acrylic, but it seems that if it's cracked a bit, it will only crack more into the future.

4: The Apogee GTZ. Is it really worth $65 if you already have a decent block? I realize my GT isn't exactly top of the line ball-bustingly incredible, but it seems to cool even a Q6600 fine.


Thank you for taking the time to read my long winded rant! :up: :ROTF:


1. compressions come in all form and fashion. They just look nicer, martin did test the koolance compression to be the best out of all tho. And YES THIS IS FROM MARTIN'S OWN MOUTH.

2. no there is no such thing as better tubing. You pick per applicaiton. Some people insist on tygon cuz they feel its clearer, me i use masterkleer cuz its cheaper and comes in 7/16. This way you dont need to use clamps.

And tubing is tubing unless you get a thin walled tubing, then your just overall screwed.

3. Email Michelle @ swiftech. Gabe offered to replace all the cracked MCRES because of an unknown batch of bad acrylic they had.

4. I would need to know the rest of your EQ to tell you if the GTZ is worth it. However im gonna guess a NO. You pick blocks per applicaiton, your going from a low resistance block, to a injector/impingment block. This can be both helpful or hurtful based on your system.

[Sly Fox]

Tygon is slightly softer than Masterkleer so it bends slightly better but the Masterkleer definitely provides better value. 7/16" is pretty easy to get on metal 1/2" fittings, doesn't kink as easy, and if the pressure is low enough, so I see no reason at all to use 1/2" over 7/16". Plastic fittings are a massive pain to get the tubing on, literally and figuratively. With 7/16, compression fittings are probably only really useful on the pump and the rest can be used with zip ties. You don't need to have the zip ties on real tight to create a seal or to prevent the 7/16 coming off of 1/2 fittings as it's already on there pretty tight.

That's approximately what I've heard. That Tygon can bend a little bit tighter, but other than that it's the same stuff.

Prolly end up getting a bit of Tygon for a specific bend of mind that's a wee bit tight, go MK still for the rest.


1. compressions come in all form and fashion. They just look nicer, martin did test the koolance compression to be the best out of all tho. And YES THIS IS FROM MARTIN'S OWN MOUTH.

I'll look into those. I had a great experience with Petra's so I may get the Bitspower just because they have stock. But I'll check around. At this point I just need the convenience... Worm screws just aren't fun if you ask me. :rofl:


3. Email Michelle @ swiftech. Gabe offered to replace all the cracked MCRES because of an unknown batch of bad acrylic they had.

I'll definitely shoot her an email with pics. I understand that nothings perfect, but I was a bit displeased to see the cracking.


4. I would need to know the rest of your EQ to tell you if the GTZ is worth it. However im gonna guess a NO. You pick blocks per applicaiton, your going from a low resistance block, to a injector/impingment block. This can be both helpful or hurtful based on your system.

I'm not certain what EQ is to be honest. If that refers to my overall setup you can find that at the bottom of my sig (should have mentioned this in the first post).

I hadn't realized the GTZ was a different style block as well. Certainly have to research into it a bit before I decide whether to plunge in. I've just heard good things about it and comments that the mounting system is much improved.

The Apogee GT has served me well. I suppose I've just been itching to upgrade.

EK Supreme is excellent as well AFAIK. Just heard it's easy to mismount or setup incorrectly.


Thanks for the advice! :up:

[NaeKuh]

EQ= rest of your h2o parts.

[Sly Fox]

EQ= rest of your h2o parts.

Well I have an MCP655 pump which goes to a MCR320 radiator. Then that goes to an Apogee GT block, which leads to a MCW30 block, and finally to a Swiftech reservoir (rev. 1).

The radiator is mounted outside of the case in lieu of my awful metalworking "skills."

To be honest, I've just assumed at this point that with such a relatively simple and short loop I'd be fine with any block.

Part of what sold the MCW30 block to me was how low resistance it is. Or at least that's the claim. So I don't think it should impact my flow or pressure too terribly.

But if you or anyone else feels that a GTZ would not suit my setup I'm open for suggestions.

Again, big thing that made me happy to hear about the GTZ was the mounting system. After years of doing things the cheap "hard" way, I'm rather tired of it. Just want stuff that works without problems and troubleshooting.

[NaeKuh]

the GTZ will help you in a single loop config which you have right now.

Single loop meaning your concentrating on 1 element, that being the CPU, i dont count NB as an Element unless you running a FB block.

When you do get the GTZ, make sure pump b4 cpu, instead of pump b4 radiator.

[John Planet]

Again, big thing that made me happy to hear about the GTZ was the mounting system. After years of doing things the cheap "hard" way, I'm rather tired of it. Just want stuff that works without problems and troubleshooting.

The GTZ mounting mechanism was a big reason for replacing my MC-TDX. I haven't been disapointed. Also, my GTZ is plumbed right after a 120.3 (very low pressure drop), and performance is sterling.