Help with water cooling loop

[Yahyaue]

I have the Apogee GTZ with Big water 735, additional pump from Coolit CPU eliminator, Swiftech Mcr220 radiator, TT TMG2 radiator and the 120 radiator that came with the Big water 735. Here is a pic.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v408/yahyaue/th_EVGAX58Build014.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v408/yahyaue/?action=view&current=EVGAX58Build014.jpg)
The Bigwater 735 comes with a res+pump combo which I have flowing into the pump from the eliminator, then to the 120 rad, to the 2 x 120 rad by thermaltake, then to the 2 x 120 swiftech rad, to the apogee gtz then back to the res to complete the loop. This is placed in an Antec 1200 case. I have the 3 x 120 fans sucking air through the front of the case 2 of which are connected directly to the MCR220, the 120 rad from the bw735 sits at the bottom of the front of the case with the bottom 120 fan blowing through it. The thermaltake tmg2 at the rear has the 2 x 120 fans sucking the air through the radiator out the back of the case.
My temps idle at 37-38-34-34 @ load 79-80-76-76. What am I doing wrong?
I have an i7 920 unlapped, EVGA X58 MB, 2 x GTX 260, 1 WD Raptor 150 and 1 DVD-/+rw. Mushkin mem 3 x 2gb.
Here are additional pics:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v408/yahyaue/th_EVGAX58Build006a.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v408/yahyaue/?action=view&current=EVGAX58Build006a.jpg)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v408/yahyaue/th_EVGAX58Build014.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v408/yahyaue/?action=view&current=EVGAX58Build014.jpg) http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v408/yahyaue/th_EVGAX58Build018.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v408/yahyaue/?action=view&current=EVGAX58Build018.jpg) http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v408/yahyaue/th_EVGAX58Build019.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v408/yahyaue/?action=view&current=EVGAX58Build019.jpg)

[NaeKuh]

uhhhh...

Stop... seriously... I think you should reconsider air... your getting too far ahead of yourself and with water thats NOT a good thing...

1. NEVER MIX Thermaltake ANYTHING with real h2o eq.
2. NEVER MIX PUMPS ON A SERIES
3. DONT MIX METALS

... sigh... you really need to sit down and start doing some reading and research h2o cooling.

You just about messed up everywhere if your asking...

[Yahyaue]

uhhhh...

Stop... seriously... I think you should reconsider air... your getting too far ahead of yourself and with water thats NOT a good thing...

1. NEVER MIX Thermaltake ANYTHING with real h2o eq.
2. NEVER MIX PUMPS ON A SERIES
3. DONT MIX METALS

... sigh... you really need to sit down and start doing some reading and research h2o cooling.

You just about messed up everywhere if your asking...

Okay I have done reading on the subject. If you don't have any real advice, I appreciate no comment. I have read on this site that you can run pumps in relay as long as they are back to back which is the way I have them. As for thermaltake if you have a beef with there products then take it up with them. If you would have done your homework you'd notice that there is no mixture of metals.

Giving me some tips on what radiator would have worked better, or maybe running things in a different order would have been helpful.

Thanks for your unwarranted negativity.


Now any real constructive criticism and suggestions are welcome.

[Chruschef]

Okay I have done reading on the subject. If you don't have any real advice, I appreciate no comment. I have read on this site that you can run pumps in relay as long as they are back to back which is the way I have them. As for thermaltake if you have a beef with there products then take it up with them. If you would have done your homework you'd notice that there is no mixture of metals.

Giving me some tips on what radiator would have worked better, or maybe running things in a different order would have been helpful.

Thanks for your unwarranted negativity.


Now any real constructive criticism and suggestions are welcome.

He's completely right.:(

but to help you.... To start off with are you running hyper threading on your Core i7 CPU? Are you overclocking at all?

If its made my thermal take, get it away from all water. Put it on ebay, but if your really kind put it in the trash. No poor soul needs to deal with that...

first of all, disassemble your watercooling loop, and take out the thermal take stuff. Then take your swiftech radiator + GTZ cpu water block, and thoroughly wash them. don't trust thermal take that you aren't mixing metals, you'd be surprised.

You cannot run pumps that are not the same in-line. think about it, your running two pumps that don't go at the same speed, one of those pumps is going faster. If its the case that thermaltake pump is better, now its pushing water into your CoolIt pump and could possibly cause some problems. You've got an even bigger problem if the CoolIt pump is stronger/faster, which and I suspect is more likely, that your CoolIt pump is now sucking water from the thermaltake pump/res, so its sucking more water than the thermal take can shoot at it, and is running partly dry; thats not good for the pump.

I'd recommend..
buying a real reservoir, and a real pump; that haven't been taken out of those PoS 'all in one' watercooling set ups.:rolleyes:

There is another answer though, maybe you haven't read the horror stories yet. Core i7 runs ridiculously hot with hyper threading on, so try turning off hyper threading in the bios and recording your temperatures.

[Spankyfart]

Now any real constructive criticism and suggestions are welcome.

Getting rid of the old TT stuff is pretty solid and constructive in my opinion.
I had some of that stuff bought second hand for real cheap but it turned out to be expensive after ruining a motherboard.

Pretty sure anyone replying in this thread have first hand experience with them one or the other.

It's junk, no more no less.
I ditched everything and the rad has a place in an HTPC.
The throwing away bit was a good thing.

[Conumdrum]

Okay I have done reading on the subject. If you don't have any real advice, I appreciate no comment. I have read on this site that you can run pumps in relay as long as they are back to back which is the way I have them. As for thermaltake if you have a beef with there products then take it up with them. If you would have done your homework you'd notice that there is no mixture of metals.

Giving me some tips on what radiator would have worked better, or maybe running things in a different order would have been helpful.

Thanks for your unwarranted negativity.


Now any real constructive criticism and suggestions are welcome.

That constructive input you need to hear......... You really really need to learn and understand your dealing with people who have watercooled for possibly more years than you have been alive, and have cooled more rigs than you have even looked at on the web.

[Cralle!]

Ye take the TT stuff out and buy a new decent pump and res.

Clean the MCR och GTZ and reassemble like something i this order:

Res-pump-MCR220-GTZ

[Yahyaue]

Thanks I appreciate all of your input and candor. Did not realize TT stuff was that bad.

NaeKuh, my apologies. Unless these comments were written by your fanboys; it is apparent that you were right. Thank You.

As far as someone watercooling more years than I've been alive, I'd like to meet these 50+ year olds. I'd be very honored. Though I am a Noob to water cooling which is quite obvious, I have put together upwards of 14 rigs all running well, I might add.

I've got 2 x MCR320, new res and pump on the way any advice on the direction for the flow. I have read in some area's to go Res, pump, radiator, radiator, cpu block, back to res; is this correct.

[j.almonte]

You are in the right path... thats the way !!

[Zehnsucht]

The order which you put doesn't really matter. The most convenient is to have the res before the pump, everything else is pretty much what nets least amount of tubing and 90' angels (if any).

[Conumdrum]

As long as the res is before the pump, it really doesn't matter. The water temp in a proper loop is only 1 to 2 C different anywhere. And one MCR320 is enough for just the CPU, unless your planning to water cool the GPU's too, then I'd think about having TWO loops, one for the CPU, and one for the GPUs. Meaning another pump/res/rad.

14 rigs. Hmm. And I'm over 50, and a child when it comes to many of the folks here when it comes to PC's and WC.

Glad ya got it figured out, you'll be plesently surprised how well it works.

Absorb all you can and play with the flow estimator here. It'll all be gone on Dec 26th......
http://www.martinsliquidlab.com/

[Spankyfart]

NaeKuh, my apologies. Unless these comments were written by your fanboys;

You had to make a snide comment none the less. *shrug*

[Yahyaue]

You had to make a snide comment none the less. *shrug*

Well I'm new to the site and did not get one reply until I responded to that comment. Had to feel the situation out. Don't like being ganged on for being the new kid on the block.

I give all of you your props, and a very earnest Thanks to NaeKuh.

[Yahyaue]

14 rigs. Hmm. And I'm over 50, and a child when it comes to many of the folks here when it comes to PC's and WC.

Glad ya got it figured out, you'll be plesently surprised how well it works.

Absorb all you can and play with the flow estimator here. It'll all be gone on Dec 26th......
http://www.martinsliquidlab.com/
Thanks Conumdrum, I might as well face it so am I. I am happy with the builds but still have quite alot to learn with the WC and OC.

To anyone I offended, please forgive. I am not use to such raw advice. I guess I stepped in to the Big Dogs yard and missed the beware sign.

I hate to see it go though. I will be grabbing all the info I can, you peeps know your s***!

Thanks.

[shazza]

Looks like you are on the right track here. While folks can be blunt, I've found this site to be a wealth of information and people are very helpful. I'd suggest you start a log in the worklogs section - it's another way to get help and feedback as you do your upgrade. Good Luck!

[NaeKuh]

no im seriously telling you majorly botched up.

the 3 i capitalized, you need to take IMEDIATE action on....

Trust me, ive built h2o systems which costs as much as full computers..

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p73/aigomorla/IMG_0161.jpg

and which were mainly focused on budget as well..

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p73/aigomorla/IMG_0862.jpg

You NEED TO FIX THE 3 I BOLDED..

[Spankyfart]

You NEED TO FIX THE 3 I BOLDED..

I think he got it already.

[Yahyaue]

Thanks again NaeKuh. Very nice set ups. I am disasembling the sys and going to wait for my new stuff. Tell me what you think. I am getting the Hydor 45L pump, Swiftech Microres, 2 x MCR320, using 1/2 ID tubing with the apogee gtz block. I was going to use both MCR320 in the loop but I found a Black Ice 80mm Radiator I have. Would it be okay to run it as follows res, pump, mcr330, black ice 80mm, gtz , res?
This is a pic of the black ice rad;http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v408/yahyaue/th_EVGAX58Build023.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v408/yahyaue/?action=view&current=EVGAX58Build023.jpg)

[NaeKuh]

Thanks again NaeKuh. Very nice set ups. I am disasembling the sys and going to wait for my new stuff. Tell me what you think. I am getting the Hydor 45L pump, Swiftech Microres, 2 x MCR320, using 1/2 ID tubing with the apogee gtz block. I was going to use both MCR320 in the loop but I found a Black Ice 80mm Radiator I have. Would it be okay to run it as follows res, pump, mcr330, black ice 80mm, gtz , res?
This is a pic of the black ice rad;http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v408/yahyaue/th_EVGAX58Build023.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v408/yahyaue/?action=view&current=EVGAX58Build023.jpg)


Budget...

list out everything that you have minus TT.

i'll take care of ya in what you should get personally.

when your bored heres some things you should read up on:
1. mixing metals = galvanic corrosion
2. 2 pumps on same line means serialing them. paralelling them is sharing a same res. <--- you probably however want to ditch both pumps honestly and get 1 good pump.
3. TT is notorious in mixing metals. The TMG rad is ALU and not Copper.. Your blocks are copper... Copper + alu = 1.

L45 is not a great pump.... the MCP-655 or even the CPX-PRO should be a better solution.

[gillbot]

http://www.opaquelucidity.com/facepalm.jpg

[Yahyaue]

Here is what I have on hand, the TT bigwater pump and res combo, 2 x black ice 80mm radiators, 1 MCR220, 1 apogee gtz, and the pump of off the eliminator by coolit sys.

This is what I ordered 2 x MCR320, Hydor seltz l 45 II, Swiftech Microres.

After going back to frozencpu I noticed that the hydor has a regular AC plug no molex or 3pin and I am not able to call and cancel they closed today at 4pm. Lack of experience and impatience.

Now what? I am all ears.

[warriorpoet]

1. 2x MCR320 is serious radage; good job.
2. The GTZ is serious blockage, way to go.
3. The microres is a nice res.

a. Are your GPUs H2o cooled? Do you want them to be?
b. Do you have barbs/ fittings for 1/2" tubing? No? Get them and order a bunch of 7/16" tubing (Masterkleer and Tygon work well).
c. A DDC 3.2 (Swiftech MCP355) or D6 (Swiftech MCP655) are really nice pumps. Either will be fine, though the DDC 3.2 with a top (XSPC and EK are nice) is generally preferable.
d. What sort of coolant are you running?
e. What are your goals? Lower temps, lower noise or both?
f. What fans will you be running?
g. What are your plans for installation?

Answering a-g will get you a lot of good advice :)

[warriorpoet]

Oh yeah,


WELCOME!!!!
:welcome::clap::welcome::clap::welcome:

[Yahyaue]

Thanks warriorpoet. I am going for lower temps, noise is of no consequence. Just watering the CPU, I have barbs and tubing got plenty from Sidewindercomuters. I already ordered the hydor which now I see was a bad choice only operates with ac plug wish I could cut it off and connect a molex or something but I don't think that will work. Might have to go ahead and get the mcp655 and send the hydor back if support don't cancel the order as I requested by email.

[Yahyaue]

I am running some 50/50 antifreeze mixed with 80% distilled water to 20% antifreeze. I will be using the 120mm fans that came with the antec 1200. I have the black Ice 80mm with the fan attached in above pic.
I am considering placing the MCR320 at the front of the case between the filters and the fans, with the fans sucking air through the radiator from outside the case, placing the 80mm blackice on the rear via the 120mm to 80mm adapter with the rear fan sucking in air from outside the case blowing through the 80mm rad, using the top 230mm fan as case exhaust fan.
I am going to use 1/2 tubing from res to pump to 320rad to 80rad to cpu block then back to res.

[warriorpoet]

Thanks warriorpoet. I am going for lower temps, noise is of no consequence. Just watering the CPU, I have barbs and tubing got plenty from Sidewindercomuters. I already ordered the hydor which now I see was a bad choice only operates with ac plug wish I could cut it off and connect a molex or something but I don't think that will work. Might have to go ahead and get the mcp655 and send the hydor back if support don't cancel the order as I requested by email.

'K

Your rads are more than sufficient (Just use the Swiftys; the others provide little benefit and add restriction). You actually have enough radage to run a separate SLI + chipset loop, but you'll need to buy another pump/ res (or T-line) to do so.

Pumps: remember in a PC cooling loop head pressure is more important than flow. Blocks, rads, etc. are pretty high-resistance compared to what you'll find in an aquarium. Exchanging/ returning the Hydor is probably a good move.

Coolant: Distilled water + a couple drops of PT Nuke should do ya'. If you're extra paranoid, pick up a Killcoils from www.petrastechshop.com when they're back in stock.

Fan choice will depend on how you set up your rads. If you're running a "rad sandwich" with fans in the middle, 38mm fans will be better. Then there's pull, push, push+pull, pull with a shroud...

Rule of thumb: the fewer the sharp bends, the less extreme bends you have, the shorter the tubing runs, the shorter the length of our loop, the better the temps. Have fun!

Also, zip-ties are your friend :)

edit:

I am running some 50/50 antifreeze mixed with 80% distilled water to 20% antifreeze. I will be using the 120mm fans that came with the antec 1200. I have the black Ice 80mm with the fan attached in above pic.
I am considering placing the MCR320 at the front of the case between the filters and the fans, with the fans sucking air through the radiator from outside the case, placing the 80mm blackice on the rear via the 120mm to 80mm adapter with the rear fan sucking in air from outside the case blowing through the 80mm rad, using the top 230mm fan as case exhaust fan.
I am going to use 1/2 tubing from res to pump to 320rad to 80rad to cpu block then back to res.

Have you thought about where to put the MCR220? One 1x120 is usually superior to a 2x80. Maybe something like: Pump-> front rad -> CPU -> back rad (mount inside rear 120mm fan or rad box + 220?) -> T-line connected to res-> Pump.

The 120-> 80 convertor is going to kill your airflow. Even a single decent RPM 120 connected to that 220 will probably net you better temps, though the 320 alone should be adequate (not 3x7r33m3!!!, but pretty darn good).

Removing the filters alone should be worth a couple C.

[Conumdrum]

I wouldn't even bother with that 80mm rad. You won't need it. Your rad and the right fans is plenty. Figure out in sq " how much it adds and see what I mean. Adding it is just more hose, clamps, flow restriction. And it needs loud fans to work, so why bother adding it? Many of us end up with old parts, might as well start your collection too.

You won't need ANY antifreeze etc anymore. Distilled water and a few drops of biocide or silver kill coils is all ya need. And may I suggest you fully open that CPU block and check/clean it before you begin the new build. I do that every year, and drain/refill every 6 months.

And you mean 1/2" ID 3/4" OD? Usually we assume 1/2" means ID here, but since your new I thought I'd double check.

[Yahyaue]

Thanks again.

Yes I mean 1/2" ID 3/4" OD.

Where do I find the biocide or silver kill coils?

I will open up the CPU block and check/clean; by rinses with distilled water right?

As far as the collection of old parts, my wife is constantly on me about getting rid of them. But then, you never know what you might need.

[warriorpoet]

Good luck, man. Feel free to come back and ask whenever you need (or just to hang out). This place is filled with good guys and great advice. I learn a lot just by lurking (this last week has been an unusual exception).

[Conumdrum]

Buy the Silver coils (if in stock) at Petras. If they don't have any, they also sell PN or PT Nuke for biocide depending on your needs. The small bottle will last forever. Unscrew the block, open it up gently, scrub it with a toothbrush inside and out with ketchup. Yes, ketchup. It is slightly acidic and has a bit of grit and will remove any discoloration etc. I'm really hoping you don't find any corrosion or other odd things inside since you had TT stuff. You don't have to rinse with distilled really, just rinse and dry it well. I use a can of air or my compressor to get all the screw holes dry etc.

You will have to clean the new rad. Fill with almst boiling water, let sit for 10 min or so, drain some water out and shake it like your crazy for a few minutes. Drain into a glass bowl. Let the bowl sit for 15 min or so, if there is particals or cloudy water, do it again repeat till spotless. Then rinse it the same way another few times. Then rinse with distilled. Don't get any alcohol near any acrylic parts. I like alcohol to clean my hands before I build, gets rid of oils on my hands, less fingerprints.

[warriorpoet]

...
You will have to clean the new rad. Fill with almst boiling water, let sit for 10 min or so, drain some water out and shake it like your crazy for a few minutes. Drain into a glass bowl. Let the bowl sit for 15 min or so, if there is particals or cloudy water, do it again repeat till spotless. Then rinse it the same way another few times. Then rinse with distilled. Don't get any alcohol near any acrylic parts. I like alcohol to clean my hands before I build, gets rid of oils on my hands, less fingerprints.
Whatever happened to vinegar?

[Conumdrum]

It was decided here that it's not needed anymore, and overdone can actually start breaking down the copper in the rad. Newer rads don't use the old flux anymore, it's all waterbased flux.

There was discussions to remove any mention of it from the stickes by the mods and pros here.

[warriorpoet]

It was decided here that it's not needed anymore, and overdone can actually start breaking down the copper in the rad. Newer rads don't use the old flux anymore, it's all waterbased flux.

There was discussions to remove any mention of it from the stickes by the mods and pros here.

Hoorah!

I remember what my TC looked like when I flushed it *shudder*

[Yahyaue]

Thanks Peep, I appreciate the imput and the great advice. The ketchup threw me for a loop, but I'm game. When I get off at midnite about 40 minutes I am stripping it down and will begin flushing everything. I noticed before I left the house the tt tmg2 was beginning to leak around one of the barb fittings. Doubting yahya doubts no more.
Thanks again all.

[warriorpoet]

Thanks again.

Yes I mean 1/2" ID 3/4" OD.

Where do I find the biocide or silver kill coils?...www.petrastechshop.com

[Conumdrum]

Thanks Peep, I appreciate the imput and the great advice. The ketchup threw me for a loop, but I'm game. When I get off at midnite about 40 minutes I am stripping it down and will begin flushing everything. I noticed before I left the house the tt tmg2 was beginning to leak around one of the barb fittings. Doubting yahya doubts no more.
Thanks again all.

A leak. Ack. Please don't think that our stuff doesn't leak. Mine never has as many many haven't but it happens. I never built a WC rig before, but I read, learned and have mechanical and electronic experiance. Mainly enuff to not be stoopid and assume anything. I will have a leak someday. We live with it.
For example, I looked at my stuff for a week first (no time to build). I cut a 3" piece of hose and played with fitting it over a barb and clamping it, learning what was right. I knew to not torque the fittings when putting the hose on (reading for 3 months). I knew how far to put the hose on and where to place the clamp before I did my build cuz I played with it before I started to build. I was major anal careful with screw lenghts for the fans and rads, to the point of having a flashlight on the space and reading glasses on to be sure as I tightened the screw. I had read more than one "I put a hole in my rad with a screw" post. I opened my pump up before I even used it cuz I wanted to see what it looked like in person (and not just from pics) and lo and behold, found a piece of packing foam in the pump. I exercized all my clamps open/closed to make them easier to use when I built my rig. It took me a 3 day weekend to do it all and had it all running and TWO all night leak tests, one outside my setup, one inside my final build.

Just to be self serving and proving I'm not a liar, here is the link to my post even before I installed my stuff, All I had done was play with my parts and make my rad/fan combo. I was sooo excited!

http://www.dangerden.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=16338&highlight=#16338

[Yahyaue]

Yeah a leak. I unhooked everything did as you suggest with the CPU block with the ketchup and it looks pretty good afterwards. I threw the tt tmg2 away took my barbs out and trashed it. The res and pump combo I am going to use without the other pump until my new stuff arrives. I am going to make a loop using the 80mm rad, I know Conumdrum I don't need it but until the MCR320 arrive, the MCR220, pump res combo and the apogee gtz. I don't have the biocide or silver coils so I will use distilled water with about 2% of the 50/50. I have taken tt barb connect out of the pump and put in my own that I got from Sidewindercomputers; http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/dadenhiflfi1.html. I will leak test it for 24 and see how it holds up then I'll drain and install it in the sys then test it again for another 24.
Conumdrum and all of you guys, I really appreciate all the help. I'll check back and let you know the temps with this loop in a couple of days. Then maybe after Xmas I can make the loop with the new stuff.
Thanks again.

[Conumdrum]

YOU DO KNOW THE 50/50 HAS NO NO NO BIOCIDE?????

Why not post pics of what the CPU block looked like? And what you found in it? It will help everyone here. Thats what a real forum citizen would do. Tell us....... you found crap or didn't, that will help all of us. Don't be bashful.

But it will last till you get real WC stuff.

I'd wait, but gaming must go on.............. YOU MUST GET ALGECIDEPROTECTION, OR BE CLEANING AGAIN A REDO.

Distilled and biocide, you don't use it, your nightmare.

[shazza]

I've lost track of what pump you decided to go with? Did you get that sorted out?

Conundrum is right ... leaks can happen with any equipment, but sounds like you are fully aware of how to leak test and that will be a big plus.

Re putting biocide in your loop ... it's okay to run it for a period with just distilled water. There's a thread on here, but you can run it for a few weeks/months with no ill effects depending on your conditions (how much light, etc).

I'd build the loop with no additives, just distilled water. Make sure everything works fine, letting it run for a few days. Then, drain it and refill when you have all your parts and some biocide. Give some thought to how you are going to drain your loop ... it helps a lot in the end!

[NaeKuh]

YahYaue... you just did a complete 180 good job!

meaning very good your heading in the right direction!

good luck on this project!

[warriorpoet]

I've lost track of what pump you decided to go with? Did you get that sorted out?

Conundrum is right ... leaks can happen with any equipment, but sounds like you are fully aware of how to leak test and that will be a big plus.

Re putting biocide in your loop ... it's okay to run it for a period with just distilled water. There's a thread on here, but you can run it for a few weeks/months with no ill effects depending on your conditions (how much light, etc).

I'd build the loop with no additives, just distilled water. Make sure everything works fine, letting it run for a few days. Then, drain it and refill when you have all your parts and some biocide. Give some thought to how you are going to drain your loop ... it helps a lot in the end!+1 to all.

[Yahyaue]

Okay I'll get some pics up of the block and get back. I am at work and did not think to take any last night.
When I get off tonight I plan on being up for quite some time and I'll get some pics then.
No 50/50, will try and find some algecide locally.

Thanks, I'll keep you all posted.

[NaeKuh]

remember the key in a good build is to take your time and do it SLOWLY.

You saw what happens when you rush head first into water. :up:

Also make sure you know why were recomending these parts... if you dont know why x is better then y, ASK US.

Repsonse is a lot nicer if you ask, how is X.. vs... i got X how is it?

[Yahyaue]

YOU DO KNOW THE 50/50 HAS NO NO NO BIOCIDE?????
I'd wait, but gaming must go on.............. YOU MUST GET ALGECIDEPROTECTION, OR BE CLEANING AGAIN A REDO.

Distilled and biocide, you don't use it, your nightmare.

Can I use any algaecide protection? I found this at a local store will it work;
http://www.walmart.com/catalog/product.do?product_id=10451534#Directions, it says 14 drops to 10 gallons of water. I figure 1-1 1/2 drops to gallon of distilled water will do the trick.

If it is okay I'll pick some up on the way home.

[SNiiPE_DoGG]

you sir want some PT-nuke biocide from www.shoppts.com :up:

[Yahyaue]

remember the key in a good build is to take your time and do it SLOWLY.

You saw what happens when you rush head first into water. :up:

Also make sure you know why were recomending these parts... if you dont know why x is better then y, ASK US.

Repsonse is a lot nicer if you ask, how is X.. vs... i got X how is it?

You mentioned two pumps earlier the MCP655, and the DD-CPX PRO what makes them better than the Hydor?
I am going to return the Hydor when it arrives due to your and others suggestions and the fact that it only use an ac plug with no molex or 3 pin connector. Just would like to know

[Yahyaue]

you sir want some PT-nuke biocide from www.shoppts.com :up:

I been to the site and seen that as well as the silver killcoils if the object is to kill algae/antimicrobials and prevent corrosion, shouldn't the algae destroyer work just as well. Just curious.

"iandh's KillCoils are approx. 1.3g of pure anti-algae/antimicrobial ass kickery"

[Yahyaue]

Okay here are the pics of before and after cleaning my CPU block;
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v408/yahyaue/th_007.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v408/yahyaue/?action=view&current=007.jpg)http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v408/yahyaue/th_008.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v408/yahyaue/?action=view&current=008.jpg)http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v408/yahyaue/th_009.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v408/yahyaue/?action=view&current=009.jpg)http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v408/yahyaue/th_012.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v408/yahyaue/?action=view&current=012.jpg)http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v408/yahyaue/th_015.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v408/yahyaue/?action=view&current=015.jpg)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v408/yahyaue/th_017.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v408/yahyaue/?action=view&current=017.jpg)
Do you think I should run the CPU block across some 2000 grit or is it okay.

Following is just a loop to hold me until my new stuff arrives.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v408/yahyaue/th_018.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v408/yahyaue/?action=view&current=018.jpg)http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v408/yahyaue/th_019.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v408/yahyaue/?action=view&current=019.jpg)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v408/yahyaue/th_020.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v408/yahyaue/?action=view&current=020.jpg)http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v408/yahyaue/th_021.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v408/yahyaue/?action=view&current=021.jpg)

[basserdan]

Thanks warriorpoet. I am going for lower temps, noise is of no consequence. Just watering the CPU, I have barbs and tubing got plenty from Sidewindercomuters. I already ordered the hydor which now I see was a bad choice only operates with ac plug wish I could cut it off and connect a molex or something but I don't think that will work. Might have to go ahead and get the mcp655 and send the hydor back if support don't cancel the order as I requested by email.

Pardon my late arrival but, I didn't see any response to this. Maybe you were kidding but, DO NOT(!) swap the 'ac' plug end for a molex connector. I don't know what would happen in this case, ac>dc but, if anything, it won't be good. I apologize if you weren't actually considering this. On the chance that you were, the two are incompatible with the other's power source.

"ooh, ooh, Ms Johnson, Ms Johnson, I know the answer"

[Yahyaue]

Nawh, I had already decided to send the Hydor pump back.

[DeathWalking]

I was major anal careful with screw lenghts for the fans and rads, to the point of having a flashlight on the space and reading glasses on to be sure as I tightened the screw. I had read more than one "I put a hole in my rad with a screw" post.I did that! :(


DO NOT(!) swap the 'ac' plug end for a molex connector. I don't know what would happen in this case, ac>dc but, if anything, it won't be good. I apologize if you weren't actually considering this. On the chance that you were, the two are incompatible with the other's power source.I'm actually really curious to see what would happen. Now, if I could only figure out a way to do this without electrocuting myself. Hmm...

[warriorpoet]

You mentioned two pumps earlier the MCP655, and the DD-CPX PRO what makes them better than the Hydor?
I am going to return the Hydor when it arrives due to your and others suggestions and the fact that it only use an ac plug with no molex or 3 pin connector. Just would like to know

Hydor: 3.1m head pressure
DDC 3.2/ MCP355: 4.5m head pressure / 454l/h (a good top increases both and balances the flow/ head better than the stock DDC top- least heat dump of any pump listed)
D5/MCP655: 3.5m head pressure / 1200l/h and 12v

For my $ the DDC 3.2 / MCP355 is the best $/performance pump out there when paired with a good top (EK X-Top rev.2 looks to be tops ATM).

Head pressure is the primary consideration in a water loop due to the high restriction of the components.

[Conumdrum]

Naa, no reason to sand the block. Unless it's majorly messed up. Looks fine in the pic I guess.