EK-FC4870x2 block... How to re-install the o-ring? HELP!

[SkOrPn]

Hello everyone, I was wondering. Recently I purchased a EK-FC4870x2 Nickel block for my up and coming 4870x2. But when I got the block it was dirty with debris inside and out with finger prints new in an unopened box. I kinda thought to myself it should have been very clean, especially at this price point. Well, anyway no harm done, so I would just take it apart and clean it up myself right? Well, lol I can't seem to get the o-ring to stay into place when trying to put it back together. Is there a secret to getting the o-ring to stick into place? Glad I even checked as there was two screws loose as well...

Any help would be appreciated... Thanks...

SkOrPn

P.S. Sorry if this has been answered before, but I tried finding the info all day today.

[Nephilim]

I had to open mine to clean algae, it is very very very difficult to replace, the o-ring is ever so slightly too big for the indent. I *somehow* managed to get it in... best of luck to you sir.

[BlueAqua]

I would say once a part it in the channel you need a small weight(or a finger) to hold that spot. Keep working it around like that until it's complete. Make sure the o-ring isn't twisted or stressed, otherwise it'll pop out. It might take some time to get it perfect but it's very important to get it right.

[SkOrPn]

I would say once a part it in the channel you need a small weight(or a finger) to hold that spot. Keep working it around like that until it's complete. Make sure the o-ring isn't twisted or stressed, otherwise it'll pop out. It might take some time to get it perfect but it's very important to get it right.

Yeah I agree, very important to get it put back just right. My o-ring seems slightly to small for the groove imo. I would have wanted to make the o-ring groove deeper with a slightly larger o-ring, but that's me...

Maybe I should try wetting the o-ring first. Or sliding the top over it as I seat it... or both... Wish I would have realized how difficult it is to put back into place, as I would have just opted for a good flushing, lol...

Thanks
SkOrPn

[junkun13]

will the EK block fits the asus 4870X2 TOP?

[SkOrPn]

will the EK block fits the asus 4870X2 TOP?

Yes, the EK-FC4870x2 block should fit the Asus 4870x2 TOP just fine. I don't see why it wouldn't. The only difference is the bios I think...

[b@llz0r]

the way i reinstall the top on my 8800fc blocks is to gradually slide the top across the block making sure the o ring is in the recess as i go

[Nephilim]

OT: In response to my algae problem I used a bit too much pt nuke this time :S the water is still completely clear but I'm getting orange copper deposits in my nickel EK block, and on all of my nickel plated barbs....Oh well unless it becomes a problem I'm gonna leave it, better than algae.

[turtletrax]

OT: In response to my algae problem I used a bit too much pt nuke this time :S the water is still completely clear but I'm getting orange copper deposits in my nickel EK block, and on all of my nickel plated barbs....Oh well unless it becomes a problem I'm gonna leave it, better than algae.

How much nuke did you use?? I have never seen that b4.

[.Logic]

It helps if you can get someone to help you, another per of hands are worth their weight in gold, and then some.

[Nephilim]

How much nuke did you use?? I have never seen that b4.

used about 10 drops of CuSO4.5H2O (copper sulphate pentahydrate dissolved in water), not technically pt nuke but same chemical.

EDIT: Here's a pic:

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a96/Nephilim666/CopperDeposit-1.jpg

I'm keeping a very close eye on it (and on temps). if the deposits are strongly bonded only abrasion will get them off. I get a strange desire to rid myself of products from a manufacturer when one of their representatives (or owner) doesn't give me benefit of the doubt on their mistakes (different story with EK) so if this block is ruined I don't really care, I can pick up the XSPC one when it's made - money isn't the object here.

EDIT: or when I do my next cleaning I can just soak the internal part of the loop with ammonia hydroxide:hydrogen peroxide:water in 10:1:10 ratio and that should dissolve the copper but leave nickel alone... hopefully the nickel electroplating is good in the barb thread area :S

[StAndrew]

HOLY JINGLE BELLS BATMAN!!! 10 DROPS!!??? Gonna destroy your blocks, tubing, everything... I think the max you should use per Liter is 2 with 1 drop being just fine.

[SkOrPn]

the way i reinstall the top on my 8800fc blocks is to gradually slide the top across the block making sure the o ring is in the recess as i go

Yeah, I keep thinking this is the method to use. I will give it a try as soon as I can. Thanks...

SkOrPn

[Utnorris]

Use some rubber silicone sparingly to make it stick in the channel.

[SkOrPn]

Use some rubber silicone sparingly to make it stick in the channel.

I thought about that as well, but might make for a mess. Clear silicone would do the trick for sure and even help seal the block. But, it might also make it harder to clean later on if/when I replace the top.

[Utnorris]

I thought about that as well, but might make for a mess. Clear silicone would do the trick for sure and even help seal the block. But, it might also make it harder to clean later on if/when I replace the top.

Nope, it will peel right off.

[RickCain]

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a96/Nephilim666/CopperDeposit-1.jpg


Are those air bubbles? That just does not look right.

[Nephilim]

HOLY JINGLE BELLS BATMAN!!! 10 DROPS!!??? Gonna destroy your blocks, tubing, everything... I think the max you should use per Liter is 2 with 1 drop being just fine.

:rolleyes: no, it won't.

even if all the copper precipitated out of the solution I'd say it won't get much worse than this. CuSO4 doesn't promote galvanic corrosion enough to actually damage anything.

[NaeKuh]

uhh...

nickle isnt reactive.

And under the nickle is copper, so the only mixing of metals your doing is chrome, nickle, stainless steel and copper.

Which is okey in a loop.

Dont want to say anything bad on EK, but...
EK gpu blocks have very bad warping issues. ALL OF THEM.

If you ever tried another brand block, like DD, eVGA, Koolance even, you'll know EXACTLY what im talking about.

I think im tracing it down to the screw in area. If you look at all the competition, they purposely left a standoff (slight hill) for the screw to secure and for the card to have less of a warp.

EK on the other hand decided to make it all flat. If you compare the other blocks you'll see what im talking about.

But this is what im guessing is causing the very bad and aweful warp on all EK blocks ive own.


As for me, ive kinda given up on EK GPU blocks.
Im on the DD solution right now, and absolutely love it.

[Nephilim]

My next gpu block, as I've said won't be EK.

Nickel is reactive given the right chemical environment, but that sort of environment is very unlikely in our loops. Every metal, including platinum, is reactive with a different metal as they sit at a point in the galvanic series - it's just that nickel, copper and brass (contains copper) are very close in the galvanic series so the reaction is practically negligible.

[StAndrew]

:rolleyes: no, it won't.

even if all the copper precipitated out of the solution I'd say it won't get much worse than this. CuSO4 doesn't promote galvanic corrosion enough to actually damage anything.

Maybe I over reacted but I heard from the grape vine that CuSO4 is very bad for your tubing if too concentrated. By too concentrated, over 2 drops/Liter. I can almost def assure you that the Cu deposits are due to the high concentration, however cant explain why. However, be carefull its not building up in other places, clogging your rad, or any other block you may have. Also, be sure its on tight and doesnt flake off.

[SkOrPn]

Well I tried the top sliding thing and it kinda works if done right. At first I realized the o-ring sticks to the acrylic so when sliding the top it pulls the o-ring out of the channel. But, then I just slid the top using a tapping motion so that it lifts up and moves ever so slightly and then back down. This lets the top move gradually over the o-ring without pulling it out of the channel. BUT, now I have another problem, when I finally get to the end the damn o-ring is to long so I have excess length of o-ring. Its almost as if the o-ring has stretched some how, but I have not handled it enough to have done this. Jeez...

@ Nephilim, you are correct sir, it is very very very hard to replace the o-ring. Sure wish I had known this before hand, lol...

You guys got me worried about this block now. Mine better not warp...

[Big_Daddy]

Well I tried the top sliding thing and it kinda works if done right. At first I realized the o-ring sticks to the acrylic so when sliding the top it pulls the o-ring out of the channel. But, then I just slid the top using a tapping motion so that it lifts up and moves ever so slightly and then back down. This lets the top move gradually over the o-ring without pulling it out of the channel. BUT, now I have another problem, when I finally get to the end the damn o-ring is to long so I have excess length of o-ring. Its almost as if the o-ring has stretched some how, but I have not handled it enough to have done this. Jeez...

@ Nephilim, you are correct sir, it is very very very hard to replace the o-ring. Sure wish I had known this before hand, lol...

You guys got me worried about this block now. Mine better not warp...


You've almost got it, next time, wet the acrylic first. So it slides over the o-ring, and doesn't grip it. Then the o-ring will not streach.

[Nephilim]

mine doesn't seem warped :) but who knows, it was only covered half with bubble wrap in a very thin cardboard box when shipped to Australia, maybe that's the cause of the warping?

The concentration of CuSO4 shouldn't damage my tubes but you're correct it is not safe in HIGH concentrations on Tygon. If I notice some brittleness or if my tightest bend starts to kink I'll definitely flush and replace tubes. For people's interest, B-44-4X tygon clouds just as quickly as R-3603, however after I cleaned the tubes they are taking much longer to re-cloud, I have one fresh piece that is already clouding, the tubes I cleaned are still completely clear.

I did more reading (sorry to be taking this OT) and the deposits are from the copper salt in solution reacting with the nickel, I know in an acid the nickel would then be corroded as nickel acetate .... so I'm getting a ph tester to see if I have an acidic solution, shouldn't though. Gonna ask some chem friends if they can explain it.

EDIT: yep, high concentration solutions are acidic... well now I need something to neutralise it.... I think flushing is a good idea.

[Nephilim]

Well, it wasn't copper depositing, it was corrosion of my nickel :( depressing, now I will need to buy an EK delrin top :mad: or I might just wait til I get another 4870 X2 for CF and buy two DD blocks then. I drained my whole loop, flushed with tap water then flushed with distilled and am now running a plain distilled loop with one drop of iodine and a silver ring in the reservoir... much safer.

Oh and P.S. I hate that friggin o-ring. I find that just pushing it in and going round and round the block as it keeps popping out eventually I can get it to stay long enough to put the acrylic back on.

[SkOrPn]

Well I finally got it to stay, but it was only the practice run. After a week of messing with it I need to clean it again, but I am confident I can get it back together. I just used the top and tap/slid it across the o-ring as I went across. It took some very uncooperative fingers to finally get this to work. Felt like doing Yoga with my fingers... I don't think the o-ring is stretching, I think EK just made the o-ring slightly to long.

Thanks for the tips everyone :up:

SkOrPn