Dye

[Sparky]

Here is my experience after using a few different brands, all UV green. In the order I used them:

Dtek - required a lot of dye to get a decent glow. Lasted a couple months before noticeably fading. Had a heavy translucent green appearance when glowing, almost opaque. Ugly pea-green yellowish look with no UV applied. Left crap all over in the loop. Didn't appear to react with PT nuke.
FrozenCPU - took just a few drops to get a good glow and the color was better. Gave a nice transparent green look. Looked halfway decent with no UV as well. Only lasts a few weeks before the glow fades. Eventually faded out to practically perfectly clear! Minimal dye breakdown and buildup. Didn't appear to react with PT nuke.
Feser - Took a couple more drops than FrozenCPU dye to get a good glow but not bad. Had a more translucent green appearance. Looked OK with no UV. However, it is already fading within the first week. Haven't disassembled the loop yet to see if it has left any crap. Heard it reacts severely with PT nuke so I'm not running any in my loop this time.

FrozenCPU was the best of the three it seems, with good looks and a moderate glow life that ends with just going clear so it doesn't look bad. Dtek the worst due to how ugly it looked under no UV (and also under UV once the glow wore out) and the sheer amount of crap it left in the loop. Feser takes the cake for lasting the shortest amount of time. Not sure how it'll end up once the glow totally fades or how much is in the loop, that remains to be seen.

So I've had it with dye. $20 worth of dye later and it all doesn't hold up to expectations.

Let me know if there ever is any 7/16" ID 5/8" OD UV green tubing of the same caliber as the primochill LRT. I like the 5/8" OD, not too thin, not too fat, but I don't want to buy all new barbs to use the 3/8" ID 5/8" OD if I don't have to. Maybe I'm just overly picky and go 1/2" ID 3/4" OD but I don't know how that would fit on the fuzion with clamps, it is tight already with the 5/8" OD tubing on there!

UPDATE 10/1
This is what the UV green feser dye looks like in my loop after about 2 weeks. Lame :down: Plus those little frothy bubbles just won't go away. Looks like my loop is fermented or something. NOTE: The camera flash washed it out a little, there is still a bit of a greenish look but hardly any.

I'm waiting on evil-98 to get his clamps done and priced. I'm this > < close to buying primochill LRT UV green tubing in the 1/2" ID 3/4" OD size. If slightly fatter tubes leads to no more dealing with this then so be it. Only downside is the water in the res won't glow though :(

[AndrewZorn]

When my dye faded, I put in some highlighter 'ink'. I know everyone on here hates it though. It does stain your tubes, but so does all dye, and if you've lost the effect before you want to change liquids then there isn't much else to do. I don't care if it stains the tubing eventually though, because I replace the tubing at the liquid change interval.

But now I just use distilled+biocide, which after next change-out is just going to be distilled with a piece of silver. Clear looks coolest anyway.

[Petra]

Feser - Took a couple more drops than FrozenCPU dye to get a good glow but not bad. However, it is already fading within the first week.

Odd... I have a test loop running in the warehouse (been set up for about three months) with Feser red dye in it (along with an experimental biocide) and it's still strong. The green D-Tek dye loop has nearly faded completely out and the D-Tek clear dye + FluidXP + biocide didn't go well... but I'm not sure if that's the fault of the biocide or the dye.

[BlueAqua]

Yeah Dye just doesn't work out so well.

I noticed that Danger Den has started carrying some new tubing. 3/8" ID 5/8"OD in a lot of different colors. It says DD-TFC, but I wonder how much different it is than the Feser stuff. I bet it's about the same.

I have some of the Feser 3/8" 1/2" OD blue tubing and it's pretty nice I think. A bit of a different feel than the Primochill LRT. The Feser feels more like stiff plastic compared the the Primochill's rubber like feel.

http://www.dangerden.com/store/home.php?cat=100

[NaeKuh]

Yeah Dye just doesn't work out so well.

I noticed that Danger Den has started carrying some new tubing. 3/8" ID 5/8"OD in a lot of different colors. It says DD-TFC, but I wonder how much different it is than the Feser stuff. I bet it's about the same.
http://www.dangerden.com/store/home.php?cat=100

ROFLROFLROFL..

BA sorry i have to do this to ya.

but TFC = The Fesser Comany. :rofl:

That should answer your question.

[BlueAqua]

ROFLROFLROFL..

BA sorry i have to do this to ya.

but TFC = The Fesser Comany. :rofl:

That should answer your question.

LOL I know that may sound funny, but maybe I wrote that wrong. I know it's the same, just stating DD put their name on it too.

I'm just a noob anyways. ;)

[Sparky]

Odd... I have a test loop running in the warehouse (been set up for about three months) with Feser red dye in it (along with an experimental biocide) and it's still strong. The green D-Tek dye loop has nearly faded completely out and the D-Tek clear dye + FluidXP + biocide didn't go well... but I'm not sure if that's the fault of the biocide or the dye.

Maybe I just got a dud batch or something? I don't know but if you look at my loop now compared to how it looked a week ago it has faded considerably :shrug:

[Stealth42o]

So I've had it with dye.

I am hoping that this will be common knowledge sooner or later.

Dye = problems.

[Sparky]

Yeah Dye just doesn't work out so well.

I noticed that Danger Den has started carrying some new tubing. 3/8" ID 5/8"OD in a lot of different colors. It says DD-TFC, but I wonder how much different it is than the Feser stuff. I bet it's about the same.

I have some of the Feser 3/8" 1/2" OD blue tubing and it's pretty nice I think. A bit of a different feel than the Primochill LRT. The Feser feels more like stiff plastic compared the the Primochill's rubber like feel.

http://www.dangerden.com/store/home.php?cat=100

Still 3/8 ID I'd have to get all new barbs and I really don't want to do that...

[BlueAqua]

Still 3/8 ID I'd have to get all new barbs and I really don't want to do that...

I hear ya, that can get expensive. I fit 3/8"ID Tygon over 1/2"ID, just takes a little work. I couldn't get the Feser 3/8"ID over 1/2"ID ,but I bet you could get it over 7/16"ID.

[Conumdrum]

Petra, your experimental biocide... It doesn't have anything to do with the reduced birthrate of Krogans does it?

Anyway, I read a lot on dye issues. I got lucky (thanks to many of you) to use distiiled, PT Nuke, and Tygon Silver on my first WC setup.

And thanks to Fesser for the new tubing, I might have to do it next time. IF I ever need bling.

[MomijiTMO]

Everyone has got to try it except for me. I took all the pictures in and said hell no to dye. Luckily UV tubing came out.

[rogard]

Odd... I have a test loop running in the warehouse (been set up for about three months) with Feser red dye in it (along with an experimental biocide) and it's still strong. The green D-Tek dye loop has nearly faded completely out and the D-Tek clear dye + FluidXP + biocide didn't go well... but I'm not sure if that's the fault of the biocide or the dye.

yeah me 2..feser for me has been running for about 8+ months and has not faded.

[Gir92]

Yea, I used to use dye, but I got sick and tired of cleaning out the gunk left in blocks and the color fading. Now I use all pre colored tubing and straight distilled + PT Nuke.

[Sparky]

yeah me 2..feser for me has been running for about 8+ months and has not faded.

Are you using the feser dye or the feser premixed fluid though? Maybe therein lies the difference...

[Eddie3dfx]

I'll take some pics in a few days. I use dye light with a tiny bit of frozen cpu's blue drops.. gives it an aqua look.

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=69371&stc=1&d=1198460975

[Sparky]

UPDATE 10/1
This is what the UV green feser dye looks like in my loop after about 2 weeks. Lame :down: Plus those little frothy bubbles just won't go away. Looks like my loop is fermented or something. NOTE: The camera flash washed it out a little, there is still a bit of a greenish look but hardly any.

I'm waiting on evil-98 to get his clamps done and priced. I'm this > < close to buying primochill LRT UV green tubing in the 1/2" ID 3/4" OD size. If slightly fatter tubes leads to no more dealing with this then so be it. Only downside is the water in the res won't glow though :(

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=86164&stc=1&d=1222905504
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=86165&stc=1&d=1222905504

[MomijiTMO]

Wow that is so green. I think my lawn looks crap now. =D

[T_Flight]

I can't tell for sure, but are you sure those are small bubbles? Looks like precipatate matter to me flowing through the tubes.

The reason I said something is because if it is, that has to be clogging stuff up.

[bigslappy]

That looks like Ameba's swimming up stream to spawn in yer water blocks !!!

[Giannis86]

ROFLROFLROFL..

BA sorry i have to do this to ya.

but TFC = The Fesser Comany. :rofl:

That should answer your question.

apparently that is some new tubing that feser and DD worked on together..
anyway im extremely happy with my tfc tubing..it looks amazing:D

[SNiiPE_DoGG]

idk guys, I have used UV green dye-lite from performance-pcs in many of my loops, I usually put a significant amount in (10-15 drops) and when I take the loops apart I only have a minor bit of tube stain, no clogging or any other issues.


I guess I'm just a lucky guy :shrug: :confused:

[twwen2]

WTH, where did teh green go!? :rofl:

[Sparky]

I can't tell for sure, but are you sure those are small bubbles? Looks like precipatate matter to me flowing through the tubes.

The reason I said something is because if it is, that has to be clogging stuff up.
Yeah it is bubbles, not the greatest pics just did a quick point-n-shoot, when I stop the pump you can see it in the res float towards the top and start to dissipate. Turn the pump back on, it is clear until the little bubbles (that formed some bigger bubbles now) trapped in the blocks shoot through the loop back to the pump chop-chop-chop microbubbles all over again :shakes:


WTH, where did teh green go!? :rofl:

That's what I'd like to know! My frozenCPU dye was really weird going totally clear after a couple months, but nothing much to speak of in the blocks or anything. I have no idea why :shrug:

[Nephilim]

my feser green faded, stained the tubes as well.

I had an algae problem as well (odd since i had copper sulphate in the loop) but I soaked my tubes in bleach and scrubbed inside every block/res and did a few boiling distilled flushes in radiator.

Tubes are crystal clear now and I'm running distilled + a bit more CuSO4 pentahydrate (same as pt nuke?) than last time but not too much.

[RubberDuck]

Maybe I'm just overly picky and go 1/2" ID 3/4" OD but I don't know how that would fit on the fuzion with clamps, it is tight already with the 5/8" OD tubing on there!

I have the Fusion V2 and I use the primochill LRT UV Red 1/2" ID 3/4" OD and it is a tight fit if you try to put both Worm-Drives on at the same time ( that's if you use them ). Just tighten one down and then install the other one.

[Sparky]

How much more space is between the barbs on the fuzion v2 compared to the v1? I have the fuzion v1.

[Giannis86]

I have the Fusion V2 and I use the primochill LRT UV Red 1/2" ID 3/4" OD and it is a tight fit if you try to put both Worm-Drives on at the same time ( that's if you use them ). Just tighten one down and then install the other one.

i tried the same but with good zip ties. They wouldnt fit with Feser 1/2" ID tubing.i instead used a file on the tubing to make a little bit space and now its sitting there good n fine:D
i might end up replacing them

though. Bitspower 45 Degree G1/4 Adapter ftw:D

[RubberDuck]

Ya they are a tight fit. I still have a little room with the worm drives.


Sorry for the crap pic
Click for bigger image.
http://img231.imageshack.us/img231/5127/dscf0052le1.th.jpg (http://img231.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf0052le1.jpg)http://img231.imageshack.us/images/thpix.gif (http://g.imageshack.us/thpix.php)