Sanded down the IHS of a Q6600 to the silicone.

[Ruslan]

I wanted to do this for a while and finally got the patience to do it. It took 6+ hours of sanding by hand and here is the result:

http://justoverclockit.com/Fhbiewrbfi/1.jpg
http://justoverclockit.com/Fhbiewrbfi/2.jpg
http://justoverclockit.com/Fhbiewrbfi/3.jpg
http://justoverclockit.com/Fhbiewrbfi/4.jpg

As you can see the chip somehow survived. I took a screen shot in the morning and I was in a rush. My temperature before this procedure was 75-80 with both the cooler and the IHS lapped. After it will not go above 56 at 3.2 Ghz and that is with an additional +.1 to the vcore on top of the minimal needed to run 3.2 stable. this is with 1.375 at full load and I need 1.275 for that speed to be stable. I want a Solid 3.6 GHZ out of this. The Q6600 I have has a vid of 1.2875 are reported by coretemp and the cooler I'm using is the Tuniq. By the way a lot of people seem to think that the core and the IHS are soldered and this is simply not true. They use some hind of very strong silver adhesive that is no fully solid. No matter how good of a cooling system someone has, if the IHS does not have good contact between the die and the bottom of the IHS the temps will not be the best they can be. I did this ot get the most out of my gear.


I used 100 grit wet-dry and I was lapping without water because water killed the sand paper way to early. You have to completely shave off the top part of the IHS and this will take 6+ hours. If you rub too fast it will get very hot so when it starts to heat up pause and continue. after you the the whole top of proceed with caution. When i was doing it one part of the IHS was taller than the other so i almost panicked and gave up. you can pretty much see it in the first picture that it was not leveled. Keep going with a 400 grit until all the silver paste is gone and the cpu looks roughly like the second picture. then finish it off with 800 and stop. This is not a beauty pageant so there will be scratches on the silicone. they look deep but they are nothing to worry about. The goal is to have the dies leveled with the outer part of the partly decapitated IHS so whatever will be rolling your monster will not crush them into tiny bits. You have to carefully remove the cpu clamp from the motherboard. You cannot use a pushpin cooler. In my case since 2MM disappeared from the CPU my cooler was not holding it very tight so I used washers beetween the spring and the mounting plate to give it some extra hold. I picked it up by the cooler and it was fine, I also rotated the motherboard in the air by the cooler and it did not budge. I even picked it up by the cooler while the power is on to make sure there is good contact. There will very little clearance between the the cpu socket and the bottom of the cooler after this so make sure you do not shave off more than absolutely necessary. Make sure your cooler is completely flat at the base. Proceed with caution. I will follow this up with some pics later.



How to clean it: I used the arctic clean solution. Fill a small glass to a point where the cpu is submerged and dip the cpu and then use a toothbrush to make sure all that copper dust/paste is off of everything u can let the cpu soak in it but do not leave it there for more than 5 minutes. do not use a plastic or Styrofoam cup because the arctic clean will dissolve it and it will not be cool. After step 1 use the step 2 bottle and dunk it in, wait and wipe off. Use a hairdryer to completely dry and enjoy.

More pics:
1 (http://justoverclockit.com/washer.jpg)
2 (http://justoverclockit.com/tight.jpg)
The temps at 3.6 (http://justoverclockit.com/3.656d.png)
Valid (http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=413362)

[evil-98]

nice :up: glad it still works

[FrogBite]

I had the same idea, thx for testing it out for me :P

I´m also going to attempt this method, seems much safer than using a razor blade.

Do the brackets of the socket still hold the CPU securely in place now that most of the IHS is gone?

[Ruslan]

I had the same idea, thx for testing it out for me :P

I´m also going to attempt this method, seems much safer than using a razor blade.

Do the brackets of the socket still hold the CPU securely in place now that most of the IHS is gone?

You have to remove the bracket because it it stands taller than the shaved off area. The cpu is held in its place by the pressure of the heat sink that is screwed on.

[FrogBite]

ok, thx a lot.

[cozwin]

safer way to remove ihs :P? :rofl:

[FrogBite]

Well most people that use the razor blade method end up destroying their chip. With this method, given that you do the last bit of lapping slowly is in my opinion safer.

[Ruslan]

Well most people that use the razor blade method end up destroying their chip. With this method, given that you do the last bit of lapping slowly is in my opinion safer.

My thought exactly :up:
be very careful lapping the last of the Intel tim to not lap it to a point of the CPU latch being higher than the top of your core.

[Ruslan]

Here is an update:
I left it to prime for 16 hours and it passed.

http://justoverclockit.com/3.6sprimesq6600.png

I turned off the AC and close all the windows before going to work. I came back and took this screen shot. The ambient temp was 27C at the time of the screen shot.

[Gamekiller]

What kind of cooling are you using? Sorry if you've already said it, and I've missed it somewhere.

[Ruslan]

What kind of cooling are you using? Sorry if you've already said it, and I've missed it somewhere.

A lapped Tunic

[majestik]

Excellent mod! How much sandpaper did you end up using? Do you think you could use a file instead of 100 grit sandpaper?

[NaeKuh]

i dont want to burst this thread.

Its a great mod, but however you just screwed yourself on using mostly all the recient waterblocks on the market due to the bowed nature.

:T

Pray you never go on water.


Excellent mod! How much sandpaper did you end up using? Do you think you could use a file instead of 100 grit sandpaper?

i believe your on water, so you should read my statement i just posted.

[Ruslan]

Excellent mod! How much sandpaper did you end up using? Do you think you could use a file instead of 100 grit sandpaper?

I used about 10 sheets. A file would probably work but it is more dangerous. I would try to file most of it and leave a little for the paper. you will need a file that is very well made and flat and wide enough for the whole IHS to fit on it. Make sure to keep a firm grip on it. and obviously lap any coolr that is going to sit on it FLAT :up:

[Ruslan]

i dont want to burst this thread.

Its a great mod, but however you just screwed yourself on using mostly all the recient waterblocks on the market due to the bowed nature.

:T

Pray you never go on water.



i believe your on water, so you should read my statement i just posted.
Can you give me an example of why this wont work for water because I don't follow you.:confused:

[paakkis]

Can you give me an example of why this wont work for water because I don't follow you.:confused:
I wanna know same thing.

[Nanometer]

Cause you can crack the die from uneven pressure, I haven't done it, but then again I never used a bowed waterblock anyways.

[FrogBite]

Because "most" CPU blocks are bowed and not flat.

[paakkis]

And after that it looked like this :D http://paakkis.oc-papat.com/QX6700.jpg

[Garrett]

It doesn't really matter if the cpu latch part of the ihs that remains is slightly higher than the die... because you can remove THAT with the razorblade method, and you'll have a perfect overview of where you're cutting so you won't cut any resistors that are there :)

[Ruslan]

http://justoverclockit.com/beforeandafter.png
This is how much you need to take off. I have a celeron that i might make a ginnypig and take it to a power tool carefully...

[the9093]

a review i read talked about taking the ihs off 3 cpuz and all of them failed. seems this is the way to do it if you want to take it off.


And after that it looked like this :D http://paakkis.oc-papat.com/QX6700.jpg

your cpu does not have the ihs copper frame and thats why its cracked. this one is different like you see in the second pic. it's kind of like the old athlon xp was with its four rubber standoffs. so there shouldn't be any problems.

[majestik]

i dont want to burst this thread.

Its a great mod, but however you just screwed yourself on using mostly all the recient waterblocks on the market due to the bowed nature.

:T

Pray you never go on water.



i believe your on water, so you should read my statement i just posted.
Good call, I guess you would need to sand the waterblock as well. Although most have very thin bases.

And me, I don't have balls size of watermelons to sand my IHS anyways - I'm just curious :p:

[adamsleath]

http://justoverclockit.com/Fhbiewrbfi/2.jpg

thats a pretty picture well done.
although something i dont have the patience for :D

[Omastar]

Pretty cool, and real time consuming. Interesting, though--I hadn't ever considered sanding the entire IHS off down to the core.

[CryptiK]

Nice work, haven't seen that done before. There is a large improvement in temps, the IHS must have been making poor contact or intel's TIM must have pretty poor heat transfer. Glad it still works.

[janolle]

I like that! It's almost safe to remove the IHS that way, plus you get a free shim that fits perfectly. :D

I'm wondering if there will be problems with direct touch heatpipe coolers. It's likely that a part of the core/cores will be left without heatpipe contact on those.

[Ruslan]

I like that! It's almost safe to remove the IHS that way, plus you get a free shim that fits perfectly. :D

I'm wondering if there will be problems with direct touch heatpipe coolers. It's likely that a part of the core/cores will be left without heatpipe contact on those.

It makes contact with the base of the heat sink that transfers to the pipes.

[Loser777]

That looks great, especially as the remaing IHS on the edges will protect against pressure... I have to ask... is there still solder on the dies or are they bare?

[Ruslan]

That looks great, especially as the remaing IHS on the edges will protect against pressure... I have to ask... is there still solder on the dies or are they bare?

They are bare.

[Boogerlad]

so arcticlean eats the indium solder?

[Ruslan]

so arcticlean eats the indium solder?

no it does not, that stuff gets lapped off.

[gOtVoltage]

Nice Mod ....Almost the same the X4's except i leave the thin layer of copper ,, the whole IHS is only 2mm thick when done from top of side to pcb.. Because the soldered is usually laid on thick...


As for water blocks you can use Any one you want ... You just tighten the W/B base screws and check gasket then you can lap the W/B flat using little presshure when you sand.. No problem

Again great mod and Nice temps:yepp:

[T_M]

Can i be the first to really say that is :banana::banana::banana::banana:ing awesome work and you really pulled it off nicely.
You took the time, patience, and balls to actually do what many have just talked about and came trhough with flying colours.
Respect.

[BulldogPO]

Looks great!
I did plan to do similar thing but I do´nt have time enuff for it.
And there is also lack of motivation :)

[dinos22]

wooooooooow man

that's fantastic

nice work

[Houdini]

Nice work, but dont understand why you guys are so amazed..

It's really common seen on the danish hw forums

[T_M]

Probably because i dont look at danish forums

[Oliver]

Same as Tim and Dino, great work :)

[Alex-Ro]

Would someone try for a Wolfdale to see the resultS? :)

[JaVa_Az]

I got a E8600 Wolfy that runs way way too hot. My q6600 runs cooler and i have it at 3.8Ghz. Thinking i want to try this out but i dont want to be sanding for 6 hours. But any fast way of doing this desides a File would produce too much heat and that you would have to take pretty slow. I might just try it what the hell it is only a few hundred bucks. Ill keep you updated

[AndrewZorn]

http://justoverclockit.com/Fhbiewrbfi/2.jpg
This is perfection.

[JaVa_Az]

here you go one wolfy E8600 sanded down to the Core.http://img378.imageshack.us/img378/2893/picture021or3.jpg

Sorry about the bad picture my camera batteries need to be recharged so i couldnt get a better pic ..
First off i would like to say your going to need to eat a whole box of wheeties before you start this mod. Half way threw your going to be saying to yourself what the @#%$ was i thinking. Then you will say the same thing 100 more time to the end.
Just to let you know a file is not any faster took me 9 hours to get it to what you see in the picture.Before is hit the core chamber i switched to Sand paper But i only had 150 grit sandpaper on hand ( to bad ace hardware is not openb at 3AM in the morring) Also it took a toll on my hand Two blisters and two bloody fingers ( wear gloves if you got them)
I had to sand down even farther then what i saw i the pictures to start this thread. I think the wolfy core is even lower then the cores of the Q6600.
First test went bad 15c higher then it was before. But i think the water block was lieing to me. it was showing 100% coverage on the core. But since the door is off the cpu socket there is springback.So i might be hitting the side rail of the cpu socket with full presure causeing it not to get 100%. I was way to tired to mess with it anymore. Fingers hurting arm sore I took myself to bed. I might mess with it again here in a little bit i will update my results :shrug:

[T_M]

Good effort, please report back your final findings.

[Ruslan]

If you look at my pictures in my first post you will see that on my 65nm Q6600 the cooler is touching the latch that holds the clamp. Did you remove the clamp?. You must make sure that the top of your super lapped cpu is the highest point and not a part of the cpu socked above it. you can probable use some nose pliers to CAREFULLY bent the part down a little. since a 65nm barely makes it then 45nm needs some extra effort on the motherboard. Not a big problem if done very carefully.

[JaVa_Az]

I have a danger den MC-TDX water block just about the whole block will fit inside the cpu clamp bracket. It did have a mark where it was hitting the side where the metal bar is that you use to clamp the cpu in it would for sure hit the part where your TRUE rests. I dont have to worry about that with this block. I did cut a little bit of a channel in the water block to make sure it doesnt hit. But still the same problem. The water block shows good contact with the cores when i take it off. but something is happening when i tighten it all the way down. I`ll figure it out sooner or later. Not to worried about it I have my Q6600 in here now running at 3.8 doesnt get over 68 under full load. It is a bit harder for me since i have water cooling on everything so i cant take the board out of the case to see what the deal is. I might get a new radiator next week if i do that, I want to redo my loop make a change or two So the system will get drained and i can pull the board and figure out what the problem is, Plus by then my fingers will have healed and my arm wont be so sore. So i`ll be in a better mood to deal with it. Just needs a tweek or two to work it out

[initialised]

I used 100 grit wet-dry and I was lapping without water because water killed the sand paper way to early. You have to completely shave off the top part of the IHS and this will take 6+ hours.There is a quicker way:
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2182/2063250376_a80ddf2af2.jpg?v=0
Random orbital sander, belt sander would be quicker, and don't worry too much about the die/dice since Si is much harder than Cu the surrounding IHS material will etch faster than the die.

[SquidgyB]

I'd love to do this to my QX9650, but £450 is a lot of cash to be playing with... maybe later in it's lifetime. Add to that the worry that even with the shim, I'd be worried about the weight of a TRUE 120 hanging off of it. I'll probably wait till I can afford a watercooling setup, I'd imagine the pressure on the die is much more uniform with a small waterblock, rather than a huge heatsink.

Great job though mate, nice result!

[Ruslan]

I'd love to do this to my QX9650, but £450 is a lot of cash to be playing with... maybe later in it's lifetime. Add to that the worry that even with the shim, I'd be worried about the weight of a TRUE 120 hanging off of it. I'll probably wait till I can afford a watercooling setup, I'd imagine the pressure on the die is much more uniform with a small waterblock, rather than a huge heatsink.

Great job though mate, nice result!

Yea QX9650 is probably a bad idea to experiment like this on. Mine is still running fine with my Tunic tightly screwed in. Looks like keeping the outside part of the IHS was worth it at least for me. I paid $200 for my Q6600 and I was worried about loosing it because it's a good working chip. I would not do this to a chip that costs more than $1000.

[fragmasterMax]

Can i be the first to really say that is :banana::banana::banana::banana:ing awesome work and you really pulled it off nicely.
You took the time, patience, and balls to actually do what many have just talked about and came trhough with flying colours.
Respect.

+1
Has anyone thought about doing this with a bench grinder?

[CryptiK]

IMO that would generate way too much heat and if you cut too deep, it's all over in a fraction of a second. This kind of thing is much better off to be done by hand.

[STEvil]

reminds me back when we were lapping Athlon XP cores lol

[Brian y.]

That is one amazing looking chip.:clap:



My hats off to you sir for your patience:)

[largon]

By the way a lot of people seem to think that the core and the IHS are soldered and this is simply not true. They use some hind of very strong silver adhesive that is no fully solid.That "very strong silver adhesive" is the proverbial "solder". It is a metal alloy containing tin and indium (probably) and it has a melting point around 100ºC.

Here's a pic I took that shows how it looks:
85224

[Ruslan]

That "very strong silver adhesive" is the proverbial "solder". It is a metal alloy (probably) containing atleast tin and indium and it has a melting point around 100ºC.

Here's a pic I took that shows how it looks:
85224
I stand corrected. I didn't think it was solder because it is not completely solid.

[TheKarmakazi]

Awesome work! Bet your arms were sore the next day

[Ruslan]

Awesome work! Bet your arms were sore the next day

My muscles were fine but my blisters are still healing. No pain no gain :up:

[Boogerlad]

largon, didn't you say that jewlery polish eats it off and gives it a mirror finish?

[eternaljammer]

pretty awesome mate!

[-n7-]

Impressive stuff.

[xdrift0rx]

so are you saying you WOULDNT reccomend doing this with a waterblock or that the waterblock just needs to be lapped too after lapping the processor? i lapped my Q6600 and my one core is still a higher temp than the other. this is my temperatures as i type this right now..

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v301/xninjararacerx/asdfasdf-2.jpg


i would love to do this if i could. i think i could get a nicer clock out of it.


forgot to mention my waterblock is the swiftech storm rev 2.

[JaVa_Az]

Depends on the water block .Some of the newer ones are bowed so they mount better with Intels Bowed IHS`s. Not sure about that swiftech you have, but im sure with some google searches you could find out if it was made bowed or not. I would not worry to much about the idel temps on the cores. If your Q6600 is like mine the temps under load will even out. I would say everest is wrong on your core temps too. Your running a old version Of everest At that time they believed the TJmax was 95c when it is now believed it is 100c for a Q6600 Go. Still nothing official from Intel on 65nm CPU's so it is still just a guess. Newest everest release is 4.60.1500

[Boogerlad]

storm is not bowed. However, swiftech storm doesn't like mcm cpu's. A d-tek fuzion v2, EK surpreme or a swiftech apogge gtz would be much better in my opinion.

[xdrift0rx]

that one core just gets so much warmer than the rest. it sucks.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v301/xninjararacerx/fdafda2.jpg

here it is with a load.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v301/xninjararacerx/fdafda.jpg

are you saying the storm doesnt like MCM's because of the jet design? maybe i didnt lap my cpu flat enough? also my VID sucks. i used core temp to check the q6600 i use at work and it gets 1.250..im tempted to switch it out some day...xD who would tell teh diference??

[largon]

largon, didn't you say that jewlery polish eats it off and gives it a mirror finish?Yup.
I have some ancient silver/jewelry polishing paste that has the ability to sort of decay the tin-indium-solder. I just apply it on the stuff and the solder literally disintegrates into black dust in seconds leaving the die with a shiny mirror finish.

[xdrift0rx]

hold on, so does that mean you could cut open a slit in the rubber surrounding the processor and drop some in there and then be able to pop off the IHS? or would it mess up the core itself in some way? just wondering..

[JaVa_Az]

hold on, so does that mean you could cut open a slit in the rubber surrounding the processor and drop some in there and then be able to pop off the IHS? or would it mess up the core itself in some way? just wondering..

You can get the IHS off people have done it but they allmost all have ended up cracking the cores. without the shim in there the cores get just a little bit too much pressurewhen mounting the heatsink they will crack. I believe there is a post in the beginning of this thread showing pictures of failed cores taking off the whole IHS. I would say with a water block you could get away with it if your careful but any kind of decent air cooling heatsink is going to have too much weight to it. I think if you did pop it off and glue you some shims juat a tiny bit higher then the cores back onto it. then lap till you even would be the fastest easyest way to do this mod.

[Boogerlad]

Yup.
I have some ancient silver/jewelry polishing paste that has the ability to sort of decay the tin-indium-solder. I just apply it on the stuff and the solder literally disintegrates into black dust in seconds leaving the die with a shiny mirror finish.

Do you have a link, know the product name or the composition of that jewlery/silver polish?

[largon]

Boogerlad,
The tube looks like it's like 30 years old the instructions are in german 'n' there's no composition listed on it. Brand is "Gildenglanz".
:\

[reno 456]

This is a great idea...I wonder if it would work for a P4? Or a dual core?

[Bandito]

I might try tomorrow to achieve the same outcome by etching or even electro-etching. I'll just mask the sides and back with tape. I'll try on a celeron first, as I think the silicon will also etch. Hopefull will reduce effort, as only the sides will need to be sanded.

[Alexontherocks]

You can get the IHS off people have done it but they allmost all have ended up cracking the cores. without the shim in there the cores get just a little bit too much pressurewhen mounting the heatsink they will crack. I believe there is a post in the beginning of this thread showing pictures of failed cores taking off the whole IHS. I would say with a water block you could get away with it if your careful but any kind of decent air cooling heatsink is going to have too much weight to it. I think if you did pop it off and glue you some shims juat a tiny bit higher then the cores back onto it. then lap till you even would be the fastest easyest way to do this mod.

I kept both a e6600 IHS less and a q6600 IHS less with a ultra 120 for respectively 4 and 9 months. Many remounts, never a problem with neither of them.

I think that if the mounting is even in therms of pressure, nothing should happen. Then again I only speak from my persoanl experience

[Bandito]

Damn thats way too much work! Spent the last 2 days on it. Tried etching, electro-etching, 1.5 hours of sanding. This is a celeron 420. I think next time, I will pop off the whole ihs, then glue on a 0.5mm thick copper ring and lap that back to the height of the core.
http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j248/alienbandit/cpu-ihs-removed/celeron-ihs-sanded.jpg

[Commander_HK47]

Disregard this post, as it was made with out investigation on my behalf.

[Bandito]

Later this week, I'm going to try to dissolve the glue that sticks the ihs on to the circuit board by soaking in Methyl Ethyl Keytone (MEK). If it does, it could make it easier to remove the ihs.

I am going to do this to a E8500 or E8600, does anyone have a pic of the inside of one of these?

And would doing this help when using a phase cooler?

[Shocker003]

I will take this leap too.
I will be sanding down my Q6600 ihs tomorrow for fun.
I hope nothing goes wrong.;)

[Boogerlad]

it's not glue. It's indium solder.

[OC4/3]

Wow............Amazing patience and ball you have there.
Good work:clap:

[Per Hansson]

http://justoverclockit.com/Fhbiewrbfi/2.jpg

My hat is off to you sir
That is some amazing work you've done there!

It looks as good as if it had been made by a CNC Surface Grinder (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Surface_grinder)
...Which gives me an idea, are those CPU's magnetc? (Hehe, no, I wont try it, too expensive to fail :))

Please do post a higher resolution pic of that CPU if you have it!

[Shocker003]

How does a cpu without ihs fair under a waterblock?
What do you guys think, will i be getting better cpu temp or worse?
Any advice will be highly welcomed.
NB:Hardware
Q6600 and the waterblock is a D-Tek fusion.

[Boogerlad]

it would work great, but the fuzion is bowed. Since it's bowed, it's probably crack the core.

[smee]

I don't recommend this for watercooling guys!!!

Lap the proc a little, and use a bowed block like the Fuzion V2, that will get you your best results possible.

[Shocker003]

I don't recommend this for watercooling guys!!!

Lap the proc a little, and use a bowed block like the Fuzion V2, that will get you your best results possible.

Too late i have started the sanding and boy my fingers hurt like hell:(. For the past four hours, i have been sanding and the end is not even near

[Bandito]

Too late i have started the sanding and boy my fingers hurt like hell:(. For the past four hours, i have been sanding and the end is not even near

He he, its like watching paint dry! You think your almost there, but theres always twice as much left as you think there is.

[Particle]

Anyone try sanding down to like the last .25mm or so and then sand it all the way and compare that against a bare IHS? If the results don't change a lot, it might be worth it for the majority of us to just stop there.

[Shocker003]

Update on my quest:
I have to stop sanding cos the ihs of my cpu is lower than the cpu retention on the motherboard and i can´t feel my fingers atm. I will continue later in the day with the sanding nightmare.
I have to remove the retention for my D-tek base to make contact with the ihs.
I believe ihs removal will work for anybody that is using stepped cpu waterblock.

[Boogerlad]

when the ihs was finally off, how long did you sand the bare dies to get rid of the solder?

[Shocker003]

when the ihs was finally off, how long did you sand the bare dies to get rid of the solder?

If your question was meant for me, then i couldn´t go on as i ran out of balls:dammit:. In a nutshell after about 9 hrs of sanding i stopped and there was no drop in my temp and my cpu ihs is almost the same level with the part that the mainboard retention bracket rests on.

[rjkoneill]

brave not to try it on a cheaper/broken chip first

[ExodusC]

I think I'm a little too scared to try it.

I have a TRUE, and I don't want to crush the bare dies (I've seen pictures, it's not pretty).

I also really don't think it will gain me a whole lot, my Q6600 is already lapped.

[fragmasterMax]

brave not to try it on a cheaper/broken chip first

This takes like 8 hours remember?

[Vienna]

I don't recommend this for watercooling guys!!!

Lap the proc a little, and use a bowed block like the Fuzion V2, that will get you your best results possible.

Yes and No. With a properly designed waterblock a direct die with a flat block will outperform a bowed block on a almost fully lapped die/ihs. Unfortunitly with the whole bowed craze we don't even really get a choice in the matter, and don't have access to the better performing blocks of today in an unbowed form. (blocks come pre bowed nowadays :-( )

Oh well thats why I'm Old Skool with my Cather G5.... One day perhaps flat blocks will become all the rage again.... Well assuming Intel changes the way cpu is mounted, OR AMD becomes the uber king again and keeps there current mount method, so no time soon :p: .

[Josifek]

Isnt it dangerous, sanding the core from the soldering ? Cant it be scrached ? I could try this on my E2140, but im a bit scared, since ive cracked and damaged a few cores before :P

[gOtVoltage]

Too late i have started the sanding and boy my fingers hurt like hell:(. For the past four hours, i have been sanding and the end is not even near

Ive lapped Fusion V1 and V2... They can be safely lapped flat with no bow..Just sand slow...

Ive been doing sanding X2/X4 cores for a while. Ive even EXIT port modded the holes on Fusion too for better flow...

Just drill the four corner exit holes to 3/8" for higher flow.Works with V2 just harder to drill the corners or you can use a roudtale file.

http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u192/darrellsierra/HPIM0606.jpg

http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u192/darrellsierra/HPIM0598.jpg

http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u192/darrellsierra/HPIM0595.jpg

As for lapping,, make shure the Block is fully assembled then lap flat or it will bow when you put it back to gether..

You can do alot of small improvements with a fusion and still be able to use the Nozzel for INTEL chips.. If you use no nozzel you can open up center hole on the bottom for wider coverage of Center CORE CPU's..

I recomend the Split Nozzel for CORE2 Quads while using larger exet holes.

You dont need Extreme preshure to mount the block...Install as normal with factory hardware. When lapped ,, you may use a little less paste .A Nice super thin layer on each core is all that is needed with AS5 or MX-2.. Just remeber the AS5 takes longer to set when using water.

[VRSpy]

Water block base must not sand too much, its thickness much be strong enough to prevent it from warping, once warp, you can throw away your block.
Too much pressure also will cause the block to warp or crack the core, just sit nicely on the core will do.

[tscompusa]

wow that looks awesome. how long did it take you to stand that down tho?

[[XC] Oj101]

You've now given us all a good picture of what lies below the spreader so surely we could use a dremel with a steady hand to cut through the spreader? Much quicker and if you don't slip it should be safe.

Don't quote me on this though.

[TheGanG]

What TIM do u use after removal of ihs and how? :confused:

[[XC] Oj101]

Same as you would with the IHS in place.

[Boogerlad]

Guys, for people scared of killing their chips due to sanding, use nervdull. It's a great product cause it gets rid of the indium solder easily. FCG told me.

[silisli]

Hi, well Ive been sanding my qx6700 for 3 days now with 100grit and i dont think its any where close :nuts: How hot can the thing get before it gets damaged? It gets pretty damn hot sanding it.

[Origin_Unknown]

that is amazing to be fair - 6 hours of sanding shows alot of patience, nevermind upper and lower arm strength.

also - that chip would make an uber keyring like that ;)

[MidgetMariachi]

Sanding is always my least favorite part of any project. I don't have the patience. Imagine sanding an entire car for paint! Sucks...

Yes it will get hot...friction!!

Valdeam http://photo-shack.com/img/c930eecd01935feef55942cc445f708f.gif

[DX_Medic]

I have a bleth sander in my metal shop class. I am going to take my dells pentium 4 540 to it on Monday. I will get back to you on how it goes I know theirs a lot of heat though so I hope it lives.

[c.freak]

Use a heatgun and the IHS goes off just around 35-45 sec (e6550).. Well.. sanding is ofcourse a method too, but ~6h :( Noway man!

[silisli]

is there any chance of killing it with the heat gun method?

[MADMAX22]

Well guys just thought I would share my experience with this. Saw it and had to try it. I have a B3 X3220 that I figured if anything may help the temps why not.

Well got it all done and finally got it too boot back up again, Im using a V8 water block which is very flat. Found out that my temps are exactly the same as before with a lapped IHS. I was rather disapointed I must say. Tried several different moutnings and used both arctic silver and ICD and ICD actually was warmer by 1 or 2C.

Anyways gave me a fright becuase it woouldnt boot at first but figured out gotta be careful putting it in lol.

[xdrift0rx]

that sucks you didnt see any temperature improvements, though it may be your cooling that is not good enough (what kind of rad?)

js.

[MADMAX22]

Its a bonnie heater core with a couple of shrouded silverstones.

I may end up doing another reseat later on and see what happens. Maybe I am using too much thermal paste. Was thinking that maybe I wont see any improvements until I get the super thinnest layer I can possibly get on it.

[xdrift0rx]

one quick question about applying thermal paste...when i do mine with AS-5 i make sure the whole IHS is covered, and when i do so i make sure its all the same color (of AS-5) am i using too much? or am i doing it correctly? i know it says to do a thin line down the middle for quad cores but i tried taht and didnt like the results.

[MADMAX22]

Use as little as possible and still maintain full contact is what your after. If you wanna smear a thin layer over the entire IHS then put the block on that works pretty good IMO. Just make sure everything is flat and that you have even pressure all the way around.

[xsnitch]

Past the 2 dies (or 1 on some of Wolfy pics etc) what are the 9 or so chips in by the dies? I'm asking because I'm going to try using a peltier + water setup and wondering what should be done in terms of condensation prevention within the ihs base.

If I were guessing I'd just be throwing in some dialectic grease and making sure nothing bothers the connections... but I dont want to guess :)

Thoughts?

[570091D]

Past the 2 dies (or 1 on some of Wolfy pics etc) what are the 9 or so chips in by the dies? I'm asking because I'm going to try using a peltier + water setup and wondering what should be done in terms of condensation prevention within the ihs base.

If I were guessing I'd just be throwing in some dialectic grease and making sure nothing bothers the connections... but I dont want to guess :)

Thoughts?

those are resistors, if you plan on doing this dialectric grease will be necessary! imho, this mod is more trouble than it's worth; simply lapping the heat spreader until it's flat and smooth will yield results that are just as good. when i lapped mine i finished off with some 1500 grit automotive sandpaper and i think that made a big difference.

[Serpentarius]

crazy stunt .. but a good experience ..

maybe next time you should get a sanding drill bit .. that's cut down the time to 1/2 hr

[=ACID RAIN=]

Hehe..

I have 10C lower temps compared to the OP, but I haven't lapped anything. Even higher vcore (bios 1.55v, vdroop 1.45 normally, but 1.4v lowest stable) and same OC. Using an apogee CPU block, viperfang II for my 8800GT, and a bonneville heatcore (or similar, got it on ebay years ago) with a couple of slow moving san ace 120s.

[Brutuz]

You can get the IHS off people have done it but they allmost all have ended up cracking the cores. without the shim in there the cores get just a little bit too much pressurewhen mounting the heatsink they will crack. I believe there is a post in the beginning of this thread showing pictures of failed cores taking off the whole IHS. I would say with a water block you could get away with it if your careful but any kind of decent air cooling heatsink is going to have too much weight to it. I think if you did pop it off and glue you some shims juat a tiny bit higher then the cores back onto it. then lap till you even would be the fastest easyest way to do this mod.

It's more how carefully you put it on, I have a Xigmatek S1283 that I mounted on a Athlon XP with Zipties, etc that didn't destroy the core (And it let me get that Athlon XP to 2.3Ghz on a crappy mobo), if you put too much weight on one side, then it probably will crack, but if you put it VERY equally (i.e. 1 turn on each side at a time until fully tightened) then it should be fine unless you have like a TRUE copper on it or something.

If I can be bothered, I might try this on my PhII X3 720, it's running pretty cool now, but I might just try it for the heck, I'll wait to get water though as I have a hard enough time trusting the AM2+ mount for a TRUE with an IHS on it.

[Tommie_lj]

Ruslan, the pics is gone.. can you please upload the pics again?

sorry for waking an old thread again, but i must see this :) think i will attempt this on my Phenom II X4 940

[BigHops323]

Sweet, awesome to see that there is a reasonable chance for the chip to survive, not that I'd dare try it. Congrats.