Fittings on MCP655 pump

[aireent777]

Hi, since I'm only using clamps on my pumps, I would like to change those clamps to fittings, could anybody suggest what fittings will fit on the MCP655 pump? Your help will be greatly appreciated:)

[Eddie3dfx]

Hi, since I'm only using clamps on my pumps, I would like to change those clamps to fittings, could anybody suggest what fittings will fit on the MCP655 pump? Your help will be greatly appreciated:)

I'm not sure if you have a bit or tap, but coolermeister tapped his 655 to thread for bits/barbs.
Otherwise, you can't use anything, as there is no threading.

[BlueAqua]

Time to get creative if you want fittings like Eddie3dfx said. Probably just not worth it.

[RADCOM]

You could get the EK D5 tops

[InfinityNX]

Go look at knet370's Project Thessa. He had the 655 default barbs cut off, then had them tapped with a g1/4 thread :)

[aireent777]

Oh so it should be tapped. Thanks guys for the tips. Just saw someone's rig a while ago but forgot in what thread it was but he didn't mentioned about his pumps being tapped. Is there anything we can do to go around this and attach fittings to these pumps?

[Eddie3dfx]

Oh so it should be tapped. Thanks guys for the tips. Just saw someone's rig a while ago but forgot in what thread it was but he didn't mentioned about his pumps being tapped. Is there anything we can do to go around this and attach fittings to these pumps?

As someone stated, ek block would work, but it's $40.

[BulldogPO]

Any other advantages from buying that EK D5 top?

[aspire.comptech]

Very slight increase in overall pump performance. Something like 3-5% IIRC

[tantric]

heres quickie on modding and tapping an MPC-655
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b246/tantricmodz/Lian-Li%20VA77/mcp655mod01.jpg

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b246/tantricmodz/Lian-Li%20VA77/mcp655mod02.jpg

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b246/tantricmodz/Lian-Li%20VA77/mcp655mod04.jpg

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b246/tantricmodz/Lian-Li%20VA77/mcp655mod05.jpg

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b246/tantricmodz/Lian-Li%20VA77/mcp655mod06.jpg

[tantric]

the actual pump in action.
http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g4/knet370/_MG_4464.jpg?t=1219147868%3Cbr%20/%3E

[aireent777]

Hi mhike! does BP compression fittings fit on the pump by tapping?

[Sabre2]

I think tomorow I am getting my pump drilled and tapped so i can put a couple of bitspower compression fittings, yay me! I don't know anything about this but when i mentioned it to the guy that will do it for me, i told him G1/4 threads and he sounded confused and asked for me to bring them in. Is there a better terminology for what size threads i need to tell him? Thanks! (This guy has a CNC shop to make Winchester gun parts and has all the equipment to do anything and everything)

Thanks!

[Boyu]

Afaik it's the same as 1/4 BSPP thread

[moogle]

Afaik it's the same as 1/4 BSPP thread

19 TPI 1/4" BSPP. Needs an 11.6 or 11.8mm hole drilled.

[knet370]

Hi mhike! does BP compression fittings fit on the pump by tapping?


here is the pump with bp compression fittings on it.

http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g4/knet370/_MG_5265.jpg

http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g4/knet370/_MG_5162.jpg

[exe163]

Wow, nice rig knet!

How much? *borat style*

Also I think it looks better without the LEDs on the RAM fans. And the way you place your pump is just brilliant.

[cheezeit]

Deeyyyum, those are some very nice rigs. Doesn't seem worth the effort performancewise to tap a 655, but it sure makes it look sharp.

[basserdan]

Deeyyyum, those are some very nice rigs. Doesn't seem worth the effort performancewise to tap a 655, but it sure makes it look sharp.

If you have the tap & drill bit, it should only take about 15mins. I thought it would look nice but really it's just another couple of fittings that can come loose.

[Sabre2]

I am doing it so i can put a 45 degree fitting from bitspower... the way it is right now the tubing has to be bent to go around the hard drive grill.

And would make fitting 7/16ID over those 1/2 barbs history.

[veedubfreak]

Heh, ya, i busted a couple knuckles trying to get my 7/16" over the stock barbs. Is there any performance difference that comes with tapping or is it just aesthetics.

[coolmiester]

G1/4 Mod For D5 1/2" & 3/8" Barbs

This mod was instigated by BP-Vincent at Bitspower so all credit to him :thumb:

Very similar to a previous guide Tapping and Threading a G1/4 Hole but thought i would do a run through with the D5 to give a better idea of how it looks in practice.

Hopefully this simple guide will explain the tools required and how best to tackle the job.

Tools Required:
Electric Drill
Hack Saw
11.8mm HSS Drill Bit
1/4" BSP 19 TPI Second or Plug Tap
Wrench
400 Grit Wet & Dry

First of all you need to disassemble the D5 by unscrewing the front barb assembly from the pump itself and you also want to remove the pump bracket to make the job much easier.

Once you have the front off you need to cut the existing barbs off down to the Red line indicated in the picture below. You want to get this as precise as possible as this is where the rubber "O" ring of the barb will be seated so it needs to be as flush as possible. Don't worry if you're slightly off as you can always straighten things out with some 400 Grit Wet n Dry on a flat surface the way you would lap a water block base.

Once you're happy you have the existing barbs removed and flush you need to take a 11.8mm Drill and ream out both the inlet and outlet of the pump and its best to have the part clamped in some way as you need to keep the drill hole as accurate as possible or even better using a pillar drill. You will find the pump material drills really easy and i found i didn't need any lubricating at all but feel free to use it if preferred.

Now you have the 11.8mm hole, take your G1/4 Tap and basically start screwing it into the hole you have just drilled. Its paramount at this stage that you offer the Tap up to the hole perfectly vertical at 90 degrees to the surface otherwise you could end up with the thread running off and the barb not fitting flush resulting in leakage.

Keeping the Tap lined up correctly you can start Tapping the hole by turning the Tap half a turn clockwise followed by quarter turn anti-clockwise which allows the swarf to be released from the threads keeping the cutting edges of the Tap free to make cutting much easier – the process of half a turn clockwise followed by quarter turn anti-clockwise should be carried through till the Tapping process is finished. Again i found no lube was necessary but feel free to use it if preferred.

Its just a case of cleaning up, especially if you used any type of cutting lubrication and reassemble the pump and you're good to go.

The pictures below are first using 1/2" Danger Den Stubby barbs then the complete pump i used D-Tek Hi-Flow as the "O" ring stands less chance of popping out due to the recess "O" ring grove.

http://www.coolercases.co.uk/guides/d5_mod/d5_tapped_1.jpg

http://www.coolercases.co.uk/guides/d5_mod/d5_tapped_2.jpg

http://www.coolercases.co.uk/guides/d5_mod/d5_tapped_3.jpg

http://www.coolercases.co.uk/guides/d5_mod/d5_tapped_4.jpg

http://www.coolercases.co.uk/guides/d5_mod/d5_tapped_5.jpg

http://www.coolercases.co.uk/guides/d5_mod/d5_tapped_6.jpg

http://www.coolercases.co.uk/guides/d5_mod/d5_tapped_7.jpg

http://www.coolercases.co.uk/guides/d5_mod/d5_tapped_8.jpg

http://www.coolercases.co.uk/guides/d5_mod/d5_tapped.jpg

[breathemetal]

not to hijack but i didnt feel the need to start another thread.

what does it mean by flooding the pump before you run it?
im new to this whole thing, sorry :p

[Eddie3dfx]

not to hijack but i didnt feel the need to start another thread.

what does it mean by flooding the pump before you run it?
im new to this whole thing, sorry :p

I think they mean make sure the water is in the pump/tubing before you run it.
The pump dies without water.

[breathemetal]

ah so when u pour the water into the rez it goes through the tubes and the pump right away?

[Eddie3dfx]

ah so when u pour the water into the rez it goes through the tubes and the pump right away?

Not always :)

[moogle]

ah so when u pour the water into the rez it goes through the tubes and the pump right away?

Depends. Usually just filling the res a bit the turning and tipping the case to get it to the pump is enough, then you can carry on filling until you see the coolant passing through the pump on the outlet side then you can turn it on :)

Mind you on the MCP655 it's fast :D


I think they mean make sure the water is in the pump/tubing before you run it.
The pump dies without water.

Yeah the impeller rubs on the ceramic ball in the middle and wears it or the impeller down I think. Thats why you gotta have the lubricant (coolant) in it whenever you run it.

[Sabre2]

Thank you so much coolmeister for the quick guide. I am going to try and get this done as soon as possible, im still waiting on some parts so i can put 45 degree compression fittings on my pump for good measure. I hope I don't screw this up, but in chance that I do, do you think Swiftech will replace the pump top for some money?

[Metasheep]

I just did this mod a couple minutes ago.

Tools I used:
British Standard Thread Pipe Tap 1/4"-19 BSPP (part 8328A22 at www.mcmaster.com. Make sure its BSPP, not BSPT)
11.8 mm drill bit (I used part 30565A335 at www.mcmaster.com)
Hack saw
Wrench
Flat file
Clamp or something stabilize the top

Saw off the old barbs, then use the file to make the cuts flat. This is a good time to clamp down the top if you haven't done so. Drill out the inlet and outlet using the 11.8mm drill bit. Make sure to be careful not to go too deep on the outlet since it makes a 90 degree turn. Use the tap to start cutting the threads into the holes. Try to keep it as perpendicular as you can. I found it easier to start by doing complete revolutions at first since the plastic is soft enough. As before, don't go too deep on the outlet.

It only took me 20-30 minutes, but unfortunately I didn't get the tap perfectly perpendicular. I had file the surfaces at a slight angle so the barbs would seal properly.