Cleaning/leaktest - quick questions

[adrift02]

So I was reading the cleaning guide posted in the sticky but still have a couple of questions.

1. The guide states to pour distilled into the rad, shake, empty, repeat. However, seems like it would also work to hook up the pump/res and flush the rad that way. Does the guide not say to do this because it will contaminate the pump/res?

2. How important is it to dissemble the blocks for cleaning with a toothbrush/vinegar? Considering they are new, couldn't I clean them like the rad by filling/shaking then soaking in vinegar for an hour?

3. Though I always lap my hsf, does it really make much different with new waterblocks? I know finish quality can vary a lot between different parts....and some blocks shouldn't be lapped correct (bowed)?

4. Once I have finished cleaning, I would like to do a leak test with everything (including the blocks) unmounted on my counter. I still am waiting for some misc parts (mosfets for gpu) so I would like to do a preliminary leak test without taking my rig down.
Thanks for the help!

Part List -

D-tek Fuzion V2
Swiftech MCW60-R VGA cooler
Swiftech MC21 Aluminum MOSFET Heatsinks - 4 pack
Swiftech MC14 VGA Forged Copper Ramsinks
Swiftech MCR320-QP-K Triple 120mm Radiator
Swiftech MCP 355 12v DC Pump
XSPC - Acrylic Reservoir for Laing DDC
Tygon R-3603 1/2" ID 5/8" OD Chemical Tubing
Dangerden Silver Compression Fitting - 1/2" to 5/8" x8
Bitspower 1/4" NPSM To G1/4 Adapter Ring w/ O-ring x2
Feser One Non Conductive Cooling Fluid - 1000 ml - UV Blue

[RickCain]

1. The guide states to pour distilled into the rad, shake, empty, repeat. However, seems like it would also work to hook up the pump/res and flush the rad that way. Does the guide not say to do this because it will contaminate the pump/res?


You should clean each part prior to installation



2. How important is it to dissemble the blocks for cleaning with a toothbrush/vinegar? Considering they are new, couldn't I clean them like the rad by filling/shaking then soaking in vinegar for an hour?


Highly recommended to ensure everything is in good shape



3. Though I always lap my hsf, does it really make much different with new waterblocks? I know finish quality can vary a lot between different parts....and some blocks shouldn't be lapped correct (bowed)?


If the block is bowed, DO NOT LAP



4. Once I have finished cleaning, I would like to do a leak test with everything (including the blocks) unmounted on my counter. I still am waiting for some misc parts (mosfets for gpu) so I would like to do a preliminary leak test without taking my rig down.


If is hard to lead test without it in your case but if you want to be 100 percent sure, that is the way to do it. I personnally never have leak tested, just put the loop together and run it! Of course that is me taking my chances - Six plus years and 30+ configurations later and only lost one video card due to leaking (knock on wood)

[adrift02]

Ok, d-tek fuzion is bowed so no lapping. I am flushing the radiator as stated now and will hook up a small loop to flush with distilled after its sat with vinegar in it for an hour. I wish I didn't have to take my blocks apart but I don't want to run into problems.

One more question, do you guys soak your fittings in vinegar as well? If this is not usually done, should I at least do it with the two compression fittings that I had to sand down (had to make them fit all the chrome has been sanded off)?

[Conumdrum]

We don't use vinager anymore, was dicussion to remove all mention of vinager in rad flushing in any sticky. It actually eats the copper/brass. Was needed back in the old days when the flux wasn't water based.

The reason we fill with hot water, dran 1/2 out and shake like crazy is to help break up any chunks of flux residue, doing this many times, then pouring into a glass bowl to inspect the water, some let it sit for 10 min or so to let the particals sink to the bottom. If any redo.

My pump had pieces of packing foam balls in it. My CPU block had pieces of gasket in it. Nuff said. Cleaning them first time? well....not really needed but since it's open. Use ketchup, it has a tiny bit of vinagar in it, helps remove oxidaion. Use a toothbrush gently on the pins in the block. just inspect/rinse the fittings, maybe some dawn soap to get rid of any oils etc.

[adrift02]

Hm, guess the sticky needs to be updated. I have my rad soaking in vinegar right now. I guess I will only let it sit for like 15min instead of an hour. I thought it only started to eat the copper after a long period of time...

So for the block I guess I will only use a very small amount of vinegar added to water? My MCW60 definitely needs a cleaning, I gotta get a very small hex drive to take a part the fuzion v2 block..

[orclev]

Also be careful getting anything like vinegar or alcohol (really anything but water) on the o-rings of your fittings, or any gaskets on your waterblocks, as those sorts of things often eat rubbers (or at least make them fragile).

I'm curious why you needed to sand any of your fittings, that's generally not something that's required in order to get everything to go together properly.

[orclev]

Hm, guess the sticky needs to be updated. I have my rad soaking in vinegar right now. I guess I will only let it sit for like 15min instead of an hour. I though it only started to eat the copper after a long period of time...

That's not pure vinegar is it? If it is, take it out right now. Even the old stickies recommended a diluted mixture not straight vinegar.

[adrift02]

That's not pure vinegar is it? If it is, take it out right now. Even the old stickies recommended a diluted mixture not straight vinegar.

Oops :(

I am going to fill/shake/drain about another 2 gallons of boiling distilled water through the rad to wash out the vinegar. Think its ok? only sat for maybe 10 minutes....



I'm curious why you needed to sand any of your fittings, that's generally not something that's required in order to get everything to go together properly.

Didn't know the compression fittings were so huge. They wouldn't fit my d-tek v2 block and barely fit my mcw60. Rather then wait a week for new fittings I sanded them down. http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=198766

[orclev]

Ok, that makes sense. The fuzion block is notorious for being difficult to fit compression fittings on.

10 minutes in vinegar shouldn't have done much damage (if any) to the radiator, but it's better not to risk it. On a related note, salt (even what's naturally on your skin) when mixed with the vinegar accelerates the corrosion process. There are still instances when it's recommended to apply a vinegar wash (diluted!) to a waterblock but an initial cleaning usually isn't one of them. Typical examples where something that drastic is called for is cases where you've got mystery gunk on your block and boiling distilled water isn't handling it (for example, because you mixed PT Nuke with UV Dye and it caused the dye to separate). Of course, it's even better if you can open the block up and clean it out using ketchup (contains diluted vinegar, really the same as doing a water/vinegar mix, but don't need to mix by hand, and the ketchup also acts as a mild abrasive), but once again, for your initial cleaning this shouldn't be necessary.

Edit: I should point out there is absolutely nothing wrong with PT Nuke, or UV Dye, just that care must be taken when combining the two, as certain dyes react poorly with other chemicals, including PT Nuke. Your safest option is always going to be pure distilled water, in black tygon (or similar quality) tubing, with a drop or two of PT Nuke (or similar). Of course, a lot of people are willing to risk using something else to make the system look better, and that's a personal choice. Moral of the story, if you want the best performance with minimal maintenance, make sure no light is inside the case and you're using pure distilled water with an anti-microbial agent. If you want it to look good, expect to have to change it out more often and clean it more often. Always be careful when mixing chemicals, particularly dyes, they don't often play well with each other.

[adrift02]

Well for my blocks then I would rather skip the vinegar/ketchup process. I already pulled them apart, so should I just scrub with normal distilled or is it ok to boil the copper (not plastic right?) parts in distilled water?

[Conumdrum]

No need to boil. We open them up to inspect and remove stuff. You can just rinse with water and put back together if you want.

[adrift02]

Nice, sounds good.