1st time loop - Woot!

[adrift02]

Done bit of research and am looking at these parts.

CPU = FuZion v2 $69.95
GPU = MCW60 $46.95
PUMP = DD12V-D5 $91.45
RAD = MCR320 $56.95
Res = Swiftech MCRES-MICRO™ Reservoir $19.99

I will have a 4850 and a e6600 in the loop. Later, I might get another 4850 and if I do I am assuming I will need another 120.1 rad (D5 should still be sufficient).

1. What do you guys think of the part list? I am going for a quiet setup with yate loons cooling my rad.

2. As of now I am looking to find some good tubing, clamps, and also mosfets for the 4850. Any recommendations?

3. I just saw this post by Malik (http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=141863) and thought his loops looked sweet. I have a stacker 810 so I got a great case with plenty of space and would be very happy if I could build something as slick as those.
http://shackit.pl/malik/Innovatek%20Project/2.jpg - what kind of tubing is that?
http://shackit.pl/malik/green/rev1/1.JPG - what res is that?

Anyways, I appreciate any feedback. Feel free to answer any/all of my questions. Hopefully I will be showing pics by my birthday (sep5), thanks!

[Big_Daddy]

Tubing looks like Tygon R3400 (3/8" id?) with clear tube coils, And the res is the EK Multi-res, looks to be the 400ml.

All the other parts look fine. Just a word, if you add another 4850, a single 120.1 may not be enough. Also, check Martin's flow rate estimator. If you start adding mb blocks, you may run into a flow problem with the D5.

As far as ram chips for the 4850, Swiftech, or Enzio makes some nice ones.

[adrift02]

I will look into the chart tomorrow as I got to sleep.

However, excusing my laziness, what pump would you recommend over the D5 assuming the loop was a e6000, two 4850, and NB/SB blocks? Is noise an issue with more powerful pumps? I am all for getting the best quality (future proof) pump I can, as it is one part I don't want to be replacing.

[Big_Daddy]

Well, the D5 has excellent flow, but not the best head (power to push the water through restriction, get your mind out of the gutter) The BEST/most future proof would be the Iwaki RD30, but that takes a separate powersupply (meanwell 24v) The 2nd best would be the MCP355 with a XSPC reservoir top (you could eliminate the swifty microres with this top). Also, using the MCP355 with res top will allow you to use whatever fittings you choose. With the D5, you'd have to stretch the tubing over the fittings on the pump, or purchase a brand new replacement top for the D5. We don't have any numbers on those tops yet though. As far as noise, you really don't hear the pump over the fans, if you do, you need better fans. :) The RD30 is noisy, but it's powerful. I don't hear my mcp355 with res top at all. 2nd, the RD30 is big, it's a hair bigger than the D5, but much bigger than the MCP355 (swiftech's name, it's acutally a Laing DDC 3.2)

[adrift02]

This the combo you are talking about?

XSPC Premium Acrylic Reservoir for Laing DDC - $44.95
+
Swiftech MCP355™ 12 VDC Pump - $79.95

= $124.91
-19.99 (res)
= $104.91

little bit more than the D5 but I assume the performance is worth the extra ~$15, especially considering this should be my longest lasting part.

[shachar2]

I am all for getting the best quality (future proof) pump I can, as it is one part I don't want to be replacing.

almost all pumps are listed as 50,000 MTBF (Mean Time Between Failures) which is about 5 years of non stop use.
However Statistics aside I have no data on real world use

If your pump rpm is connected to your motherboard you shouldn't have any problems even if it fails (but more fail safes would be recommended)

[adrift02]

By future proof I meant I want headroom for more blocks/rads. And yes it will be connected through the mobo so it wont be on all the time.

[Big_Daddy]

By future proof I meant I want headroom for more blocks/rads. And yes it will be connected through the mobo so it wont be on all the time.

Yes, that is the combo I speak of. Just so were clear, the pump runs when the computer is on. And the RPM sensor is just a sensor, it doesn't control the pump. You plug the pump into 12v, (24v for the RD30) and when the PSU comes on (usually with puter) the pump comes on, has nothing to do with the RPM sensor. (hell only the ddc and 1 ver of D5 have the RPM sensor)

[Hidetaka]

Malik's tubing on these pics is either black tygon [R3400] or transparent tygon [R3603] + Feser black. Tubing size seems to be 8/11 [pfft... straws...] with way too big transparent coils [Swiftech or Black Water, not that there's any difference...].

The res is Black Water O-Tank 250, I don't think it's available outside Poland but EK makes reservoirs that are almost identical.

[adrift02]

Unless I missed something, seems like all the parts I got listed now are all 1/4.

CPU = FuZion v2 $69.95
GPU = MCW60 $46.95
RAD = MCR320 $56.95
XSPC Premium Acrylic Reservoir for Laing DDC - $44.95
Swiftech MCP355™ 12 VDC Pump - $79.95

So I would need to get about 8 1/4 to 3/8 (or whatever size tubing) fittings correct?

Any recommended fittings/tubing?

Looks like I am almost ready to order once I figure out the tubing and fittings...thanks for everyone's help so far!

[faster3200]

For tubing Tygon R-3603 seems to be the best unless you want something black or with color. I would recommend going with 1/2" tubing or 7/16" if you want a tighter fit. Both of these will give you better flow than 3/8" so I would avoid that size tubing.

As for fittings I personally like the D-Tek ones since they have a bigger lip for a tighter seal. The BP (sometimes rebranded as Danger Den) Fat Boys are also quite popular since they are technically have the largest ID of all the fittings. If you want amazing blingitudinal fittings then BP compression fittings are what you want. They look amazing but are about 3 times the price of normal fittings.

[Big_Daddy]

You've got to be careful, G1/4 (or 1/4 bspp same thing) is the threading used on barbs. 99% of the things you find these days are G1/4, exceptions would be G3/8 used in Thermochill rad's. And some funky fittings used by Aqua Computers and the like G1/8. Another thing to note on the rad you've chosen, it's threading is 1/4 NPSM, it's compatible with g1/4 but it's not exactly the same. I'd recommend these (http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=393&products_id=23836) from Bitspower. It's a NPSM to G1/4 converter to get a 100% good seal between the fittings.

Now, there are 1/4, 3/8, 7/16, and 1/2 tubing sizes that are the norm. The fittings and tubing you choose need to be the same. Exceptions here would be where you stretch a smaller tube over a larger barb. i.e. 7/16" fits very snugly over a 1/2" barb. 1/2" is the highest flowing, followed by 7/16" etc etc. Now the amount of flow difference is little (until you get to 1/4 which nobody here will recommend you get) So decide on what fittings or tubing you want, and purchase the fittings/tubing that go with it. My personal favorites are the Bitspower/danger den "fat boys". They work with 1/2" (or 7/16") tubing. But again, its personal preference.

Now, are you going to choose standard barbs, or are you wanting compression fittings? Cause with the compression fittings, we'll have to get into tubing inner diameter, and outer diameter. If you choose standard barbs, then either zip ties, or worm drives to clam the tubing down over the barb.

And yes, you'd need 8 barbs for what you've selected.

[adrift02]

Compression fittings are looking a bit pricey and considering I am already over the $300 mark I will go with the "Fat Boys".

For tubing I am currently looking at the Tygon R-3603 7/16 tubing as from what I have read it is slightly smaller with a tighter fit over the barbs.

I did look for that B44-4X in 7/16 but couldn't find it.

Also, I am considering dropping the fusion v2 block for now as it would save me some money and it is out of stock in most places. However, would I just be giving myself a big headache by doing this? This would entail re-cutting the tubing, draining and refilling, etc when I get the block later right? If it is going to be very annoying fitting the block into the loop later I will just wait a bit longer and do it all at once.

Again, thanks to everyone who has helped me so far (especially Big_Daddy), this is going to be a fun mod for me :D.

[adrift02]

So I am close to pulling the trigger now that jab-tech has everything I need in stock. I just have a few more questions for you guys.

1. Though its the cheap way to go, would using the 1/2 barbs that come with the fuzion v2 and the plastic 1/2 barbs that come with the mcr320 impact the loop performance? Probably would buy the extra 4 fatboys anyways but I am curious.

2. Since jab-tech only has lame plastic clamps, I might as well use zip-ties. With 7/16 over 1/2 barbs this should be more than enough right?

3. I saw this "Primochill liquid utopia (steel blue)" (http://www.jab-tech.com/Primochill-Liquid-Utopia-Steel-Blue-pr-3766.html) all-in-once solution. Can anyone comment on the quality? Seems like a cheap buy for a antimicrobial+dye. I know distilled water is best but I would like it to look purdy :).

4. Finally, I was picking up a fill syringe and trying to think of any other miscellaneous item I would need when building my loop....anything I am missing?

Thanks for all the help!

[adrift02]

Finally pulled the trigger. Now to wait and obsess :D.

Bitspower 1/4" NPSM To G1/4 Adapter Ring w/ O-ring x2 = $5.98
Swiftech MC21 Aluminum MOSFET Heatsinks - 4 pack = $9.95
Feser One Non Conductive Cooling Fluid - 1000 ml - UV Blue = $19.95
Subtotal: $35.88
Shipping: $9.01
Total: $44.89


Swiftech MCR320-QP-K Triple 120mm Radiator = $53.95
Dangerden Fill Syringe = $1.99
Swiftech MCP 355 12v DC Pump = $69.95
Swiftech MCW60-R VGA cooler = $36.90
Tygon R-3603 1/2" ID 5/8" OD Chemical Tubing x6 = $11.70
XSPC - Acrylic Reservoir for Laing DDC = $44.95
D-tek Fuzion V2 = $63.95
Dangerden Silver Compression Fitting - 1/2" to 5/8" x8 = $55.60
Swiftech MC14 VGA Forged Copper Ramsinks = $15.95

Subtotal: $354.94
Shipping: $13.19
Total: $368.13

Grand Total = 413.02 :eek::eek::eek:.............oh well should be fun :up:

EDIT: When I start posting picks and showing progress I should start a new thread in the worklog section as opposed to adding it here correct?