D-tek GFX 2 Defective Unisink? (GT200 'sink) - [No]

[Kougar]

Well, they say a square peg won't fit in a round hole, but in this case the mounting holes between the GFX 2 block and the GT200 Uni-sink don't match up at all so the point is moot anyway. There is no way to use the four screws to mount the block to the unisink as indicated in the instructions. :confused:

Surely I'm not the only one with this issue since it must be a manufacturing defect on the GT200 unisinks? There are two sets of four holes in the unisink to mount the block to the unisink, but the block doesn't align with either set.

Additionally just to ease my mind... Can anyone else with the GFX 2 block confirm the chrome mounting plate is supposed to be "loose" fitting... as in it rattles if you shake the block? There also wasn't enough room between the chrome plate and the space where it mounts to the unisink. I had to force it in place with a great deal of pressure... Either the sink wasn't big enough or the chrome plate was a hair to big.

If someone can confirm this is an issue I'll probably just ask for my money back when I RMA to the shop instead of getting another. Thanks a bunch for any help.

[Petra]

Well, they say a square peg won't fit in a round hole, but in this case the mounting holes between the GFX 2 block and the GT200 Uni-sink don't match up at all so the point is moot anyway. There is no way to use the four screws to mount the block to the unisink as indicated in the instructions. :confused:

Surely I'm not the only one with this issue since it must be a manufacturing defect on the GT200 unisinks? There are two sets of four holes in the unisink to mount the block to the unisink, but the block doesn't align with either set.
I haven't heard any reports of problems and the one I tested out worked fine... You just have to make sure that you're using the smaller mounting bracket and screwing into the inner set of holes (the larger G80 bracket that ships pre-installed on the block won't match either set of holes).


Additionally just to ease my mind... Can anyone else with the GFX 2 block confirm the chrome mounting plate is supposed to be "loose" fitting... as in it rattles if you shake the block?
That's completely normal for all of the FuZion GFX blocks

[Kougar]

So, it doesn't fit because it's not the right bracket? Well that'd make sense... I did get the feeling I was missing something obvious, if nothing else. :am:

In my defense I didn't see anything in the instructions about it needing a different bracket, AND I bought the two things as a single item/kit so I naturally expected it to be configured to mount to one another. Hmm. And someone does need to tell D-tek they need to update their site, it lacks the installation guide as it still says this kit is unreleased... The photocopied instructions that came with the kit are completely horrible.

Thanks for the help Petra, I'm sure that was what I was doing wrong. :p:

[Xilikon]

Yes, I was in the same wagon as you but my tiny brain did 1 + 1 then swapped the mounting plate with the smaller one. Hallelujah, it works fine this time ;)

[Petra]

It's an easy mistake to make, considering that the GFX2's own manual tries to convince people to use the G80 mounting plate for cards like the G92 8800GTS, 8800GT, and 9800GTX (when those actually require the smaller mounting plate setup... unless you're using the G92 Uni-Sink, which does require the G80 plate :rolleyes:).

[drbhatti]

some temps would be brilliant, as im considering moving to GT200b under water, and dont want to get bfg or evga's solutions, and the FC blocks are too expensive for me!.

[Xilikon]

some temps would be brilliant, as im considering moving to GT200b under water, and dont want to get bfg or evga's solutions, and the FC blocks are too expensive for me!.

While folding full blast on my GTX 260, I get not more than 44C.

[Kougar]

Drb, I haven't had a chance to install it yet after I replaced the G80 bracket with the proper one. So no temps with the block yet.

Was getting some unusual temps on my GTX 260... At stock everything, ATI Tool got the temp up to 104c and it was still climbing before I quickly killed the program. The card idles at 51c, ambient was only ~25c, and my previous 8800GTS 320mb never once would reach 80c. Currently I am GPU folding on the card, overode the fan speed and set it to 71% (default was 40%), and still my folding temp is at 79c right now. I don't remember any review saying these cards got this hot, so I am wondering why mine is trying to cook itself. I'll physically inspect the thing before I install the GFX2 Fuzion + Unisink onto it tonight, because something's not right.

[Xilikon]

Yeah, that's fishy. What I heard around is if a card go to 104C while running something like the Fur benchmark or ATITool, it's probably defective. Mine never go above 75C with the stock cooler while running 3DMark Vantage + Fur benchmark at the same time...

[fadetoblack]

So, it doesn't fit because it's not the right bracket? Well that'd make sense... I did get the feeling I was missing something obvious, if nothing else. :am:

In my defense I didn't see anything in the instructions about it needing a different bracket, AND I bought the two things as a single item/kit so I naturally expected it to be configured to mount to one another. Hmm. And someone does need to tell D-tek they need to update their site, it lacks the installation guide as it still says this kit is unreleased... The photocopied instructions that came with the kit are completely horrible.

Thanks for the help Petra, I'm sure that was what I was doing wrong. :p:

also ran into the same problem. i didnt realize it either until i remembered the kit came with another mounting bracket. and i know what you mean about the instructions. they are so useless they might as well save paper and not include any. the pictures were horrendous. i realize it's not very complicated installing these, but for first timers like me it's useful to be able to compare with a picture (one that is not a grainy black & white box) and make sure im doing things right.

[Kougar]

Fadetoblack, yes. And the hardest part (after I remembered there was a box with a few misc parts in it) was trying to take apart the GPU!! I can't believe how hard that was, I Googled up a guide and took my time but still broke two of those infuriating plastic clips getting the cooler off. Guessing which set of screws to use on the block because the instructions don't specify was at least easy though. I would have to give Dtek an award for the most useless instructions ever, even their PDFs are crappy. Not that they have uploaded the PDF for the GT200 unisink yet.


Yeah, that's fishy. What I heard around is if a card go to 104C while running something like the Fur benchmark or ATITool, it's probably defective. Mine never go above 75C with the stock cooler while running 3DMark Vantage + Fur benchmark at the same time...

I really really hope not, couldn't find any artifacts at least. I honestly could not find anything blocking or obstructing the fan, and the internal case temps just simply don't explain it either. I have the funny feeling my chip has an unusually high Vcore...



I have finally mounted and am running the GFX 2 cooler. Idle temp was 39c, and Load temps (GPU only) made it to 51c after 5 minutes of ATI Tool. Much, much better than 104+!! :cool: PCB temp went from 59.5c+ load to 39.5c. I do have a Noctua NF-P12 pointed at the top of the card now.

Something I was very unhappy to notice... the back of the cooler is PLASTIC. They are using PLASTIC to cool the 2GHz GDDR3 chips on the backside of the card!! :explode2: If I had known this before hand I would have seriously thought about that 4870 a bit more... I need to buy some ramsinks now, so I am leaving the RAM at stock and have a fan pointed at them just now.

GDDR3 is by long and far the primary cause of GPU failure, especially the highly clocked stuff. It degrades "quickly" within just a year or three, and often is the part to render the GPU useless. To think all GTX 260/280 cards use PLASTIC with thermal pads to insulate these chips... :down:

[Xilikon]

Plastic ? I looked at mine and it's black powdercoated aluminium.

Anyway, I already requested that someone come up with a nice backplate to complement the look of the UNi-Sink.

[Kougar]

Powdercoated aluminum?? Well it is a black powdercoat, but on the inside they use a black plastic decal instead.

Sure doesn't seem like any metal though. Sounds and feels like plastic, and sure doesn't bend either. Sure it's not aluminum looking plastic under the black coating? Either way I bet it insulates better than it cools, you don't see powdercoated heatsinks for a reason.

[kapitank]

can i use my old D-Tek FuZion GFX GPU Waterblock with D-Tek GFX 2 UNI-Sink (nVidia GTX280/260)???????

http://www.petrastechshop.com/dfugfxgpuwa.html

http://www.petrastechshop.com/dgfx2unnv200.html

thx

[Xilikon]

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c338/Xilikon/DSCF0069.jpg

Just look more carefully, there are unpainted areas showing aluminium. Even trying to bend it feel like it's cast aluminium.

[Petra]

can i use my old D-Tek FuZion GFX GPU Waterblock with D-Tek GFX 2 UNI-Sink (nVidia GTX280/260)???????

I really don't see why not... the mounting plates are the same and the form factor of the lower section of the blocks are the same.

[Garrett]

now and then I hear about clips breaking when removing the stock gtx260/280 cooler, does anyone have close up (or at least CLOSER up) pics of those pics? :D
Would be very helpful since I do intend to watercool my 280 :up:

[Justifire]

I really don't see why not... the mounting plates are the same and the form factor of the lower section of the blocks are the same.

Petra,
what's your advice for tri-sli ?
Use these or stay away from D-tek and get full cover?
Is there something like 1/2" U-Fittings ?
Cause the tube won't have much room to make that sharp turn.

[Petra]

Petra,
what's your advice for tri-sli ?
Use these or stay away from D-tek and get full cover?
Is there something like 1/2" U-Fittings ?
Cause the tube won't have much room to make that sharp turn.

I haven't had a chance to play around with the GFX2 blocks yet, so I haven't been able to verify D-Tek's pressure drop data... but, if their data is good, then the GFX 2 blocks should be quite a bit less restrictive than the EK full-cover blocks (unlike the original GFX block, who's pressure drop was crazy high). You're right about the tubing, though... unless you pick up some 1/2" copper U-bends from your local hardware/plumbing store, running tubing is going to be a real pain.

My take on most full-cover blocks is that you're trading performance for convenience--it's a personal choice. Unless, of course, you're talking about Swiftech's limited number of full-cover waterblocks... those have performed fantastically.

[Kougar]

[IMG]Just look more carefully, there are unpainted areas showing aluminium. Even trying to bend it feel like it's cast aluminium.

Is it even going to make a difference though? That's thin aluminum that is wrapped in a plastic decal on the inside and powedercoated or coated with plastic on the outside. There's no exposed metal except under the thermal pads, and I don't see how that is going to cool anything more than simply insulate those chips and the PCB. Even the PCB gets pretty warm on this card. :shrug:


now and then I hear about clips breaking when removing the stock gtx260/280 cooler, does anyone have close up (or at least CLOSER up) pics of those pics? :D
Would be very helpful since I do intend to watercool my 280 :up:

Here ya go. Just remember these clips are extremely fragile, doesn't take much to release them. The hardest part is finding something thin enough you can get between the plastic covers in order to do so. If you have a jewler's screwdriver set that'd be your best bet.

http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n129/Chanur64/IMG_4241.jpg

http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n129/Chanur64/IMG_4244.jpg

[Garrett]

Thank you a lot... very very helpful indeed.
If I'm not mistaking you have to take the backplate and move it OVER the bigger part of the cooler, right?
Here's what I used to disassemble my Nokia N95, the tool is 100% plastic, so no scratching whatever :up:
Looks as if I can put it to good use... again ;)

[Kougar]

Thank you a lot... very very helpful indeed.
If I'm not mistaking you have to take the backplate and move it OVER the bigger part of the cooler, right?
Here's what I used to disassemble my Nokia N95, the tool is 100% plastic, so no scratching whatever :up:
Looks as if I can put it to good use... again ;)

Not sure what you are asking here? Once you get the clips all you need to do is carefully work the coolers, because they will both be stuck to the memory chips / core / power circuitry chips. For the main sink I'd suggest twisting it like a dial or a knob to break the TIM seal, then using a thin screwdriver to slip between the metal cooler and metal heatspreader and gently twist. Shouldn't need to force anything.

Looks like a useful tool ya have there. Scratching wasn't an issue, finding a tool that had a paper-thin edge was the issue. The plastic halves are locked together so tightly that you really need a paper-thin or razor's edge to slip anything between them.

[Garrett]

What I mean is the following:
Say you want to reassemble the stock cooler, then the backplate that cools the back memory chips must be clicked "over" the larger part of the cooler that cools everything else right? Since it clicks into place on the bigger part :)

And yes I have multiple tools at my disposal, even a very small screwdriver with a 1mm wide head :)
The kind you use with watches and stuff :up:
Is it true that the holes on the Unisink are 53mm apart? (the inner holes, and I mean horizontally and vertically but not diagonally)
If so then standard MCW60 brackets will fit just fine ;)

[Justifire]

If so then standard MCW60 brackets will fit just fine ;)

Let me know if this works, would be great !!
Getting my MCW-60's out of the dust :D

[Kougar]

Ah, yes they would just clip back together. And that would be a jewler's screwdriver set as they call them, I had to use mine on my card. ;)

I can't actually measure the unisink, sorry. Not taking the Fuzion off to get a look see! The Unisink had two sets of holes, but neither fits the G80 mounting block. So I am pretty sure the MCW60 won't fit, sorry. That is why the G80 mounting bracket holes don't match up with the GT200 unisink, this unisink requires the GTX 260/280 bracket to be used on the waterblock. Block mounts to the sink, sink mounts to the card.

[Garrett]

No I won't let you know because you already ordered the unisinks :P ;)
just kidding... but can anyone PLEASE confirm it? I mean the hole distance on the unisink?
I know the outer ones should be 61mm :)


Ah, yes they would just clip back together. And that would be a jewler's screwdriver set as they call them, I had to use mine on my card. ;)

I can't actually measure the unisink, sorry. Not taking the Fuzion off to get a look see! The Unisink had two sets of holes, but neither fits the G80 mounting block. So I am pretty sure the MCW60 won't fit, sorry. That is why the G80 mounting bracket holes don't match up with the GT200 unisink, this unisink requires the GTX 260/280 bracket to be used on the waterblock. Block mounts to the sink, sink mounts to the card.
Well the normal MCW60 bracket (I know the G80 one won't fit) should be the same as the other holes on the Unisink... therefore I think it WILL fit ;)
I don't care if I have to drill the holes out slightly, but I will succeed :D

[kapitank]

I really don't see why not... the mounting plates are the same and the form factor of the lower section of the blocks are the same.

Thanks you :up: