Bleeding: What am I doing wrong?

[thomas hobbes]

Ive been trying to bleed my loop for sometime now without success. While I can get most of the bubbles out by flicking the psu on and off for a second or two, once I leave the pump running it churns everything to a sething mass of bubbles.

The last block in the loop is attahed to the reservoir inlet on this res. the Cape Coolplex Pro 25. (http://http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=20602)It has a approx 6" stencil inside the tube attached to the inlet which I presume is to carry bubbles to the top without being sucked back down. Thats why Ive attached the tubing from the last block to it. But as I say when the pump runs it churns everything up.

I'm at a loss to know what Im doing wrong here, I've been trying to solve this problem for 3 days now so some help woud really be appreciated.

http://img133.imageshack.us/img133/8642/p1010836sv8.th.jpg (http://img133.imageshack.us/my.php?image=p1010836sv8.jpg)
http://img522.imageshack.us/img522/3817/p1010832wn0.th.jpg (http://img522.imageshack.us/my.php?image=p1010832wn0.jpg)
http://img301.imageshack.us/img301/2796/p1010835ms6.th.jpg (http://img301.imageshack.us/my.php?image=p1010835ms6.jpg)

[Groveling_Wyrm]

How did you fill your loop? Is your pump at the lowest point in the loop? How much fluid have you pumped through the loop so far?

Having bubbles in the loop is a normal thing, depending on how much air was trapped in your loop. You could have a LOT of air trapped in your radiator, pump, blocks, or high spots in your tubing, that has yet to be bled out.

My recommendation would be to make sure to keep the res topped off at all times, and continue to bleed until the mass of bubbles subsides. You may want to tip your loop in different directions, while running the pump, to see if you can get more air out it. Just make sure you are getting fluid to your pump.

[jonny_ftm]

Ive been trying to bleed my loop for sometime now without success. While I can get most of the bubbles out by flicking the psu on and off for a second or two, once I leave the pump running it churns everything to a sething mass of bubbles.

The last block in the loop is attahed to the reservoir inlet on this res. the Cape Coolplex Pro 25. (http://http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=20602)It has a approx 6" stencil inside the tube attached to the inlet which I presume is to carry bubbles to the top without being sucked back down. Thats why Ive attached the tubing from the last block to it. But as I say when the pump runs it churns everything up.

I'm at a loss to know what Im doing wrong here, I've been trying to solve this problem for 3 days now so some help woud really be appreciated.

You missed it all. If you read well the instructions, the hole with the tube is actually the inlet for the pump, not the inlet for the res. You have to invert your connections on the res

Maybe giving us some photos would make it easier to help you. Also, what pump/blocks/rads are you using?

[thomas hobbes]

You missed it all. If you read well the instructions, the hole with the tube is actually the inlet for the pump, not the inlet for the res. You have to invert your connections on the res

Maybe giving us some photos would make it easier to help you. Also, what pump/blocks/rads are you using?

Photos added. Im using

ddc2 18w with xspc top
dtek fusion v2
swiftech mcw30 on NB
therm 120.3
7/16 tubing

I didnt realise i had to invert the fittings, res didnt come with any instructions. A noob mistake! - suitably scolds self -

[jonny_ftm]

Photos added. Im using

ddc2 18w with xspc top
dtek fusion v2
swiftech mcw30 on NB
therm 120.3
7/16 tubing

I didnt realise i had to invert the fittings, res didnt come with any instructions.

This on the web site features.

Climb-stencil (at intake), to prevent the aspiration of bubbles

I must say I now wonder if they mean the res intake or the pump intake.

In fact, in all cases, I'm not sure it will work inverting inlet/outlet. Your pump is very strong and setup in a very low restriction loop based on your components. That's the problem with cylindric reservoirs.

The easiest way is to slow down the pump during the bleeding operation, but you need a strong rheobus or something like the m-cubed fanamp.

Maybe someone else can help you on this reservoir. I know some people using the tube trick with the EK Multioption res. So they could help if it must be the inlet or outlet of the pump. .Both seems logical to me after some thinking :confused:

[thomas hobbes]

Thanks mate. Anyone else know the correct way to set up the Cape Corp Coolplex Pro 25 Reservoir?

http://www.overclock.co.uk/product/Cape-Corp-Coolplex-Pro-25-External-Reservoir_1319.html

[coolmiester]

Looks to me like you just need to fill the res up and you're good to go.

[jonny_ftm]

Looks to me like you just need to fill the res up and you're good to go.

Yes, and res inlet bottom with res outlet top. This kills the cyclone and bubbles aspiration usually

[Kibbler]

Yes, and res inlet bottom with res outlet top. This kills the cyclone and bubbles aspiration usually
Really? I always thought res outlet (to pump) should be lower than res inlet, less chance of the pump sucking in bubbles when they float up.:confused:

[Bojamijams]

Ive been trying to bleed my loop for sometime now without success. While I can get most of the bubbles out by flicking the psu on and off for a second or two, once I leave the pump running it churns everything to a sething mass of bubbles.

The last block in the loop is attahed to the reservoir inlet on this res. the Cape Coolplex Pro 25. (http://http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=20602)It has a approx 6" stencil inside the tube attached to the inlet which I presume is to carry bubbles to the top without being sucked back down. Thats why Ive attached the tubing from the last block to it. But as I say when the pump runs it churns everything up.

I'm at a loss to know what Im doing wrong here, I've been trying to solve this problem for 3 days now so some help woud really be appreciated.

http://img133.imageshack.us/img133/8642/p1010836sv8.th.jpg (http://img133.imageshack.us/my.php?image=p1010836sv8.jpg)
http://img522.imageshack.us/img522/3817/p1010832wn0.th.jpg (http://img522.imageshack.us/my.php?image=p1010832wn0.jpg)
http://img301.imageshack.us/img301/2796/p1010835ms6.th.jpg (http://img301.imageshack.us/my.php?image=p1010835ms6.jpg)

Sorry for the OT but... did you cut those holes yourself in the motherboard tray?

[Lloyd]

I my rig no.1 i only have the cpu and gfx cooled, and the water coming back into my Alphacool plexi res (attached to the top of the pump 18watt DDC) causes so much turbulence and bubbles i had to use 2x of the foam disc u can get for them. In hindsight i probably should have got the 10watt version for that build.
On the other hand, the same pump with in rig 2 it haven't had any issue - more blocks i guess?
So unless u can get some foam or something for those, i'd turn the pump down, but i'm just speculating, it just sounds very familiar.

[Soulwind]

If you've got an adjustable pump, turn it down for a few days until all the air has finally bled to the res, top off the res, then you can turn it back up.

If it's not an adjustable pump, then take an old credit card and shove it down inside the res. This helps to break up the vortex that's forming and sucking the air back into the loop. Again, after a few days, top off the res.

From the picture, you need more fluid in the res overall. The more fluid you've got the harder it is to suck the air back into the loop. Just remember to leave a little space for backflow when the pump is turned off to keep the pressure in the tubes down, but you only want a tiny bit of space, not a large amount.

I don't know that particular res, but if they make an anti-vortex attachment (like the EK Multi-Option res has), then use that. If not, the credit card trick usually works.

Remember, bleeding isn't an instant thing. You'll be able to get most of the big air bubbles out within a few minutes/hours via the on-off method, but smaller bubbles can circulate for a few days. Cut your flow down (pump or cc trick) for awhile and eventually they'll clear out too and you're loop will be quiet and pristine.

[thomas hobbes]

I my rig no.1 i only have the cpu and gfx cooled, and the water coming back into my Alphacool plexi res (attached to the top of the pump 18watt DDC) causes so much turbulence and bubbles i had to use 2x of the foam disc u can get for them. In hindsight i probably should have got the 10watt version for that build.
On the other hand, the same pump with in rig 2 it haven't had any issue - more blocks i guess?
So unless u can get some foam or something for those, i'd turn the pump down, but i'm just speculating, it just sounds very familiar.

Thanks for the reply, Ahh someone whose famliar with my problem. So how did you turn the pump down or can you point me to a guide on how to do it?

This pump seems to have an extremely high flow rate, I know I bled my loop properly but it still kicks up a huge amount of turbulence.

[Nickel020]

You should be able to mod the DDC3.2 to a 3.1 by reversing the steps in this How-to and cutting the connection:
http://forum.effizienzgurus.de/f23/howto-laing-pro-zur-ultra-umloeten-t1106.html#overview

Or get a a Laing poweradjust to control the pump:
http://www.aqua-computer-systeme.de/shopsystem/product_info.php?cPath=46_1801&products_id=1623&osCsid=34a5f4b553f492e253334ce0f6ca902d

[jonny_ftm]

Thanks for the reply, Ahh someone whose famliar with my problem. So how did you turn the pump down or can you point me to a guide on how to do it?


Just look at my previous post:




The easiest way is to slow down the pump during the bleeding operation, but you need a strong rheobus or something like the m-cubed fanamp.


M-cubed FanAmp is the cheapes and fastest, yet efficient solution
Otherwise, there are many other fancontrollers, but you need 20W/channel minimum analog regulation (not PWM)


You should be able to mod the DDC3.2 to a 3.1 by reversing the steps in this How-to and cutting the connection:
http://forum.effizienzgurus.de/f23/howto-laing-pro-zur-ultra-umloeten-t1106.html#overview

Or get a a Laing poweradjust to control the pump:
http://www.aqua-computer-systeme.de/shopsystem/product_info.php?cPath=46_1801&products_id=1623&osCsid=34a5f4b553f492e253334ce0f6ca902d

Poweradjust: expensive and no Auto control
Hard modding: that's really too hard to do. From 3.1 to 3.2 would be a better investment



Really? I always thought res outlet (to pump) should be lower than res inlet, less chance of the pump sucking in bubbles when they float up.:confused:

No, inverting inlet/outlet will help remove the vortex, so less turbulence in your cylindric res
The credit card tip works great with EK res, so should work here too

[thomas hobbes]

Just look at my previous post:

M-cubed FanAmp is the cheapes and fastest, yet efficient solution
Otherwise, there are many other fancontrollers, but you need 20W/channel minimum analog regulation (not PWM)

No, inverting inlet/outlet will help remove the vortex, so less turbulence in your cylindric res
The credit card tip works great with EK res, so should work here too

Thanks for the replies jonny_ftm but remember I'm a noob to WC & modding so you will have to elaborate slightly more on your tips:

What do you mean by analog reg not pwm? Are anyof these fan controllers suitable for controlling the pump?

http://www.chilledpc.co.uk/shop/index.php?cPath=93

[YMAA]

It's because you cut across, not down :D

[Sparda]

Thomas what you put in the loop for the candy blue ? Look nice.

[kinghong1970]

get a T and convert that Res into a T line Reservoir...
what's happening is that the pump creates a vortex that sucks in all your bubbles and so you have endless supply of bubbles.

EK reservoir has anti-vortex inserts but i'm not sure of yours...

my previous setup, the inlet to res is at the side of the cylinder, the outlet is at bottom, fill ports at top... this created an ideal situation for vortex...
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f9/kinghong1970/Water%20Cooling/IMG_1948.jpg

but when revised to this...
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f9/kinghong1970/Water%20Cooling/IMG_2569.jpg

there was no longer a vortex... mind you, it took longer to bleed but once it did bleed out, there was not problem of air bubbles re-entering the loop and the res did not have to be topped up either...

hope it helps...

[Nickel020]

Poweradjust: expensive and no Auto control
Hard modding: that's really too hard to do. From 3.1 to 3.2 would be a better investment

Well you don't need an autoadjust really, since you permently want to mod the pump. Also, I'm not really sure that it has no autoadjust, but it might only work in combination with an Aquaero.

And hard-modding isn't very difficult. I'm a total soldering noob, just bought the stuff I need and after a bit of trying I managed to put a switch on my Laing so I can switch between DDC3.1 and 3.2.
Just be sure to read a short soldering tutorial first, there should be many on the web.

[thomas hobbes]

Thomas what you put in the loop for the candy blue ? Look nice.

Feser One - F1 - Cooling Fluid - UV BLUE

http://www.chilledpc.co.uk/shop/product_info.php?cPath=67_80&products_id=197

[thomas hobbes]

OK sorted! Inverting the reservoir tubing as jonny_ftm suggsted worked wonders, the turbulence has totally gone. Thanks for all your replies.

[jonny_ftm]

Well you don't need an autoadjust really, since you permently want to mod the pump. Also, I'm not really sure that it has no autoadjust, but it might only work in combination with an Aquaero...

No, it won't auto adjust ;)


OK sorted! Inverting the reservoir tubing as jonny_ftm suggsted worked wonders, the turbulence has totally gone. Thanks for all your replies.


Happy it worked for you :)
Basically, gravity helps removing th evortex. Credits go to people here advising me that tip for the EK res