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View Full Version : My TJ-09 Dualloop rebuild *obvious 56k*



oerekum
07-14-2008, 03:31 AM
Hello all,

I thought I'd start a humble worklog about this. I've had my pc watercooled for some time now and I felt like a big upgrade since I'm going back to college in september. After which it won't be likely I'll be upgrading much due to time and money =D.

Anyway, I don't like external radiators etc much. For the simple reason that I sometimes take my pc with me to mates and game around for a couple of days.

Here's my old setup, kind of:

http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn103/oerekum/pc/P1000990.jpg

A few weeks ago: a small pile of new stuff for Oere! Q9450, el cheapo HD3450 card, motherboard and a ram cooler:

http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn103/oerekum/pc/P1010201.jpg

My current setup:

http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn103/oerekum/pc/P1010280.jpg

This is what I'm posting from atm, I don't have a 2nd computer (Sold it). I'm waiting on my laptop =( And yes I have received two Sapphire hd4870's in the mean time. I don't have a picture of it sadly. But for those of you doubting it, yes they were also in boxes and they also had a driver cd included etc. like all other videocards =).

Also got me some Primochill tubing, I'll be putting black Primochill coils on these;

http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn103/oerekum/pc/P1010228.jpg

And Tygon R3400 with Primochill coils:

http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn103/oerekum/pc/P1010285.jpg

Other watercooling parts:

-DDC3.2 with XSPC top
-Swiftech MCres
-EK Supreme
-PA120.2
-MCW30
-D5 vario
-MCR320
-Distilled + PTNuke (Want as little trouble as possible.)

Still debating on what blocks to use on the videocards. MCW60s would work perfectly, since I already have one. Prolly won't need ramsinks because of the stock cooler piece which is compatible with the MCW60.

But those EK blocks look damn nice =(

Anyway, going along. Silverstone says: omgvgacooling etc:

http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn103/oerekum/pc/tj09blankstock.jpg

I say, CPU cooling!

http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn103/oerekum/pc/P1010282.jpg

http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn103/oerekum/pc/P1010281.jpg

I cut out a piece of black ACryan acrylic and screwed the radiator to it with radboxes. I originally bought those radboxes as a safetey net incase I could not pull off fitting the radiator like this, but this worked so nicely I chose to keep it like this.


The MCR320 will be mounted in the top mesh as in the old setup. I'll have to get the CPU loop done before thursday due to a lanparty. So next up:

-Ripping apart PC
-Blow dust off with air compressor
-Make a freaking decision on the vga blocks
-rebuild stuff!

Thanks for reading.

Dangals
07-14-2008, 04:24 AM
I like where this is going

subscribed

lolhalol
07-14-2008, 06:31 AM
looking good man.. love the black tygon and green coils :)

HaCKs
07-14-2008, 11:11 AM
That looks awesome! I was planning on buying a friends old TJ-09 and having my way with it, the fact that I can fit a PA 120.2 right there makes me happy.

oerekum
07-14-2008, 12:15 PM
That looks awesome! I was planning on buying a friends old TJ-09 and having my way with it, the fact that I can fit a PA 120.2 right there makes me happy.

Yep you just have to drill some holes. I put the acrylic there to keep the harddrive airflow seperate like SST originally designed.

Currently leaktesting my cpu loop. First time I've used 1/2 3/4 tubing. I found some matching herbie clamps which are supposed to be UV green. Though I HATE them. I'm prolly going to replace them with good ol worm drives next time I fiddle with the machine.

UPDATE:


Test fitted the pump, tight fit:

http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn103/oerekum/pc/P1010286.jpg

Really tight ....

http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn103/oerekum/pc/P1010287.jpg

Tubed it all up and started filling / bleeding. Didn't go too well in these positions so I ended up taking the whole loop out as a whole and bleed it on my desk. (No picture of that since I was pissed off >=I )

http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn103/oerekum/pc/P1010293.jpg

http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn103/oerekum/pc/P1010295.jpg



Turned her upright when the bubble factor was somewhat acceptable =D for test fitting with video card:

http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn103/oerekum/pc/P1010297.jpg

Starting to get cramped:

http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn103/oerekum/pc/P1010298.jpg


Hmmm .. Far less room left than I expected. Any suggestions on how to keep the radiator somewhat unobstructed? This'll do for the time being though, going to that LAN in a few days. Will have to tidy it up a bit though, I can't even put the side panels on haha.

More in a few days I hope!

MomijiTMO
07-14-2008, 08:35 PM
Not too sure what you could do about the airflow around the 120.2. Good job so far :D

jkresh
07-26-2008, 09:39 PM
oerekum are the fans setup in push or pull? Also HaCKs I would suggest using an mcr220 there instead of the pa (alot thinner and similar performance), I just ordered a tj-10 with a similar idea (had not seen this thread) and actualy posted in this forum asking about 2 rads in the tj10, most of the responses seemed to suggest the second would have to be a pa160 or a 120.1, but I like your idea of using the radbox as a spacer (so the side vent can be used for intake to the rad). Do you think a single radbox would be enough to hold an mcr220 there or would you suggest 2, I don't think I am going to go with the acrylic at this point.

oerekum
11-13-2009, 05:00 AM
Damn ... This thread has been dead for over a year! Well the computer I built ended up running like a charm until last week, only because I took it apart to clean it. I never watercooled the video cards despite ordering an extra MCW60. I never got round to finishing the entire PC like I wanted it too because of the college I was going to. However I've found the need to clean the computer up (software wise aswell) so I thought I'd revisit my original 'worklog' ...

I've found some nasty stuff in the waterloop. It's been running for well over a year and a half, without any kind of maintenence whatsoever. I've got brown stuff all over the loop unfortunately. I have no camera other than my phone camera, which is crap, but this is a picture of the goo inside my reservoir:

http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn103/oerekum/pc/DSC00042.jpg

It won't flush out. Not with hot water, not with hot water + soapy things. I can scrape it off with a Q-tip, but I can't reach the whole inside of the reservoir. It's a bit of a mystery to me what it is actually, and where it came from. It's inside my tubes aswell, and it was inside the EK supreme.

Anyways I'm actually kind of sick so I hope I can continue to rebuild soon..

Anemic
11-13-2009, 07:52 AM
Oooh, thats nasty! Cant you try some typ of alcohol?

Arni
11-13-2009, 11:03 AM
Alco + plexi = fail better dont try

MadHacker
11-13-2009, 12:52 PM
On plexiglass I use CLR, works good to remove the watermarks, I run a T line with a resevoir on top and the resevoir get a nice frothy green stuff, that eventualy stains the resevoir,
every year or so when i change stuff I clean it with CLR, had no problems with the plexiglass in the mean time.

oerekum
11-13-2009, 03:07 PM
I'm unfamiliar with CLR .. I'll look for it, thanks.

MadHacker
11-13-2009, 03:10 PM
I'm unfamiliar with CLR .. I'll look for it, thanks.

CLR: Calcium Lime Rust remover

Adamantine
11-13-2009, 04:39 PM
CLR: Calcium Lime Rust remover
That stuff is the :banana::banana::banana::banana: yo. It cleans corrosion too.

oerekum
11-13-2009, 05:13 PM
That stuff can't be used on copper and brass apparently. So vinegar is still the best idea for the radiator? and CLR or something similar for the res/tubes.

MadHacker
11-13-2009, 05:18 PM
no u don't want to use it on copper or brass...
did that and it turned all green.
took a while to clean up the block to get it good again afterwards.
great on plexi though.

oerekum
11-13-2009, 10:46 PM
Slight update. I tore apart one of my video cards. I plan on using the stock memory/mosfet heatsink together with an MCW60.

http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn103/oerekum/pc/DSC00045.jpg

One unfortunate casualty during this adventure were the thermal pads on the stock heatsink. A bunch of dust that had gathered got on to the pads and I removed them. I had some replacement thermal pads but turns out they were way too thin .. I ended up just sticking 3 of them together lol. I hope it works. Also put some ramsinks I had on the bare chips, because I can. I have no idea if it's useful in any way but still, they fit so nicely =D

oerekum
11-15-2009, 12:32 AM
Alright, going to summarize the stuff I'm going to use now, may need some feedback.

CPU/chipset loop:
EK supreme delrin, DDC3.2 w/ XSPC top, micro res, MCW30 and a TC PA120.2.

VGA loop:
2× MCW60, MCR320, D5 vario and a T line.

I'm contemplating buying this: http://www.chilledpc.co.uk/shop/product_info.php?products_id=1370

The XSPC reservoir for two DDC's, and also buy another DDC ofcourse. This would save me a lot of room, since my case really isn't that big. Is it worth it? Is the reservoir any good? Seen a few tests and the results seem okay, I'm worried about noise/resonance though.

oerekum
11-20-2009, 12:36 PM
Chaps,

would it be better to put the chipset in the loop with my video cards, or as I have now with the CPU? I'm thinking it would be better, but a pa120.2 seems quite much for just a quad core...

Any recommendations?

ohms
11-20-2009, 12:48 PM
I would go with video on 1 loops using the PA120.2 and the cpu/chipset on another loop using the 120x3 up top.

I was initially thinking of going with 2 separate loops at first but decided just to go with 1 loop.

kgtiger
11-21-2009, 10:09 AM
Where you running distilled water in your loop with any inhibiter or kill coils?

oerekum
11-21-2009, 12:56 PM
Where you running distilled water in your loop with any inhibiter or kill coils?

I was using distilled and a few drops of PT-Nuke. I might purchase some silver coils for this run though.

Update:

I've been doing some stuff. I do apologize for the terrible picture quality. I normally use my father's camera but he took it with him on vacation.

Sleeved my pump:

http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn103/oerekum/pc/DSC00046.jpg

Cut out a piece of my old mousepad. This is gonna dampen the pump mount =)

http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn103/oerekum/pc/DSC00047.jpg

I never had my pump mounted to anything before. It was just sitting on the bottom of my case with some adhesive tape. I drilled some holes into my case now. So I can mount it using screws and sound dampers. Before it sometimes rattled a a bit, which had to be resolved with a gentle kicking of the computer...

http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn103/oerekum/pc/DSC00047.jpg

Holes drilled:

http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn103/oerekum/pc/DSC00050.jpg

Everything mounted super tight! Hopefully no more excess vibrations:

http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn103/oerekum/pc/DSC00055.jpg

http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn103/oerekum/pc/DSC00056.jpg

After that I fit my other video card with an MCW60 and mounted them into the motherboard tray, so I could try and get a tube between them. I did, but it wasn't pretty:

http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn103/oerekum/pc/DSC00051.jpg

http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn103/oerekum/pc/DSC00052.jpg

It's on the verge of kinking. I might have to put a 90 degree thing in there to sort it out. The primochill coils aren't helping much, then again they're mostly there to look pretty.

Oh and by the way, I got my reservoir clean... Super duper secret metal wire:

http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn103/oerekum/pc/DSC00054.jpg

Plus some wet wipey towels attached to said wire equals:

http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn103/oerekum/pc/DSC00053.jpg

Clean reservoir! Hooray.

kgtiger
11-22-2009, 04:45 PM
Have a look at Voigts work log, on post 114 called "Forming Tubing", http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=225441&page=5
Will give you a way to fix that near kinking tube.

Good luck:up:

oerekum
11-23-2009, 06:16 AM
Yes I saw that, very cool. Unfortunately I don't have anything to put inside my tubes atm.

oerekum
11-25-2009, 12:42 PM
I'm gonna stick to my original loop order: the cpu with chipset on the pa120.2. I've assembled this loop and currently leak testing:

http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn103/oerekum/pc/DSC00057.jpg

Everythings leak free except for one thing. The pump. For some reason there's water coming out of the bottom. There are 2 tiny holes next to screw holes. These fill with water continuously:

http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn103/oerekum/pc/DSC00067.jpg
note: I've disassembled the pump in this pic.

I have no idea why it's leaking. The insides of the pump (the part that's not supposed to get wet) are getting wet too. I can see tiny water droplets outside the O-ring, under the pump top.

kgtiger
11-28-2009, 08:23 AM
You may find that the O-ring has either been damaged in some way, either by being squashed or nicked, or it may just be old and stretched.
They don't need to be out by much to fail/leak.
I would try a new O-ring myself.

oerekum
12-06-2009, 10:54 AM
This is driving me completely insane. I've remounted the entire pump 5 times. Each time letting the pump dry completely. I've ordered new Feser O-rings for the pump. Mounted one yesterday. I can still see moisture outside the O-ring. There's still some water coming out somewhere. This is completely beyond reason, I cannot think of any reason or anything why this thing is leaking. It's leaking less than with the old O-ring. But still.

I am going to shoot someone. I really hope it's just moisture still stuck inside the pump. And I also hope it will get out by itself, because I am NOT taking the pump apart again.

kgtiger
12-09-2009, 07:03 AM
The only other sugestion is, please don't shoot me, but remove the pump again(sorry) pull it apart as much as you can,
then leave it either in the sun or a warm place for as long as you can, a day would be good.
Re check the o-ring to see if A, you have been given the right size and then B, that it has not been damaged.
Then when you are ready to put the pump back together, put a small smear of Vaseline® Petroleum Jelly or rubber grease on the o-ring, just a tad.
This will help keep the o-ring soft and also help it to move into position and not be pinched.
Then tighten the screws up in a star formation, like you do for your CPU block or the head of a car and try not to over tighten the screws.

Take your time with it, good luck.