First WC Build - Need Advice

[Unit_5]

Hi all. I've read all the water cooling stickies here and have come to choosing these components:


Fuzion V2 block
D5 Pump
MCRES
Feser UV tubing
MCR-220 Radiator
PT Nuke
~70 CFM Yate Loons (2)
Clamps and other accessories


I have a few questions though:

1) Is distilled water and PT Nuke enough to run in a loop by itself? To my knowledge I'm not mixing metals.

2) Does the Black Ice GT Stealth 240 perform better than the MCR-220?

3) If I add a second rad thats a single 120mm one, would I also be able to liquid cool a 280GTX in addition to an OC'd quad core (45nm)?

Thanks in advance

[MomijiTMO]

1. Yup.
2. The MCR has less restriction so go with it over the GT.
3. A 360 rad or rad combo should be enough to keep them happy. Temps might not be the greatest on the CPU due to the temps the GTX280 can put out. I would still do it though.

[AtlasShrugged]

3) If I add a second rad thats a single 120mm one, would I also be able to liquid cool a 280GTX in addition to an OC'd quad core (45nm)?
Thanks in advance

I'm not an expert, just researching my first build myself, but EVGA recommends a 2x120mm radiator for each GTX280. I'm trying to figure out how to water cool my tri-sli gtx280 system at the moment because it's going to require 2 3x120mm rads...

AtlasShrugged

[Giannis86]

a triple rad with those yates will do the job.. Id consider the pa120.3 if you want to overclock..or 2 mcr220

[Unit_5]

Alright, I think I'll probably just WC the CPU for now, since I'm gonna step up to the 55nm version of the card when it comes out. No sense in buying a $180 block for a card I'll exchange 3 months from now, right? What I want to know now is, should I still go ahead and get the 2nd 120mm rad even though I'm just cooling the CPU for now?

Heres a picture of where I plan to place the rads, so wouldn't the 2nd rad just push warm air into the graphics card (while its not liquid cooled)?

http://img.tomshardware.com/us/2008/03/26/system_builder_marathon/sbm_high_mar08_installed.jpg

[Unit_5]

Don't mean to double post, but as I was finalizing what to buy I've run into a few more questions:

1) Any sense in buying Petras "Gel Stuff" for the D5 pump?

2) Is it safe to mix Pentosin G11 with PT_Nuke, and is there any point in even doing so?

3) Dumb question but, should I go with normal worm-drive clamps or the wide band ones with liner?

[twwen2]

Don't mean to double post, but as I was finalizing what to buy I've run into a few more questions:

1) Any sense in buying Petras "Gel Stuff" for the D5 pump?

2) Is it safe to mix Pentosin G11 with PT_Nuke, and is there any point in even doing so?

3) Dumb question but, should I go with normal worm-drive clamps or the wide band ones with liner?

1) I don't see why not. I wouldn't use it with a DDC (they overheat on the gel) but i think the D5 is already mounted?

2) Yes. PT Nuke is a biocide, which G11 is not.

3) Up to you. You may want the ones with the liner to protect the tubing.


Good luck!

[Rickpatbrown]

Don't use pentosin. It won't do anything useful. Distilled and biocide is all you need.

I use worm drive clamps, but I'm not a huge fan of them. The can dig into the tubing and don't seem to apply pressure evenly. The liners may help with this. They will also add thickness which could cause problems. The Fuzion v1 had the barbs so close together that even plain worm drive clamps were tough with 3/4" OD tubing. I think the v2 has them spaced more.

You can't mount a triple rad in there? I think you could, but it would be tight.