My first foray into water

[thomas hobbes]

Afternoon all,

Well. Ive ummed and ahhed for a few months now and today I finally ordered some core water parts from the good people over at ChilledPC here in the UK.

I wont be starting this build until end of May but I wanted to throw my buying decisions open to you all so you can advise on anything else I may need.

Heres what I got:

D-Tek Fusion V2
Laing DDC 18w with XSPC top
Therm PA 120.3 with 1/2" barbs
Swiftech MCRES
3 x Yate Loon D12 SL12
Masterkleer 7/16 tubing
Feser 1 some shade of blue I think

My priorities for this rig is silence with performance and as clean a look as possible.

I dont have a plan as to how I want it to look, wont be doing that until I take delivery of all the parts but I'm using the awesome rigs of AndyM and Ladderman as the benchmarks especially in terms of the clean finish and the way they've managed to hide the wiring.

One thing I cant decide is whether to include a loop for the NB. I have a Swiftech MCW30 coming just in case I do decide to, but no decision has been made.

Also the triple rad is clearly overkill for just a cpu/NB loop but I may include a VGA loop in the future. Im waiting to see what next-gen goodness ATI/NV bring out.

I have a POV GTS 512mb in my current rig (I got it brand new for £99 on offer) and an Asus 8800GTX boxed up ready to sell, so I have options if I wanna cool the GPU. While I dont really like the idea of dismantling a GPU it seems a shame not to. If you're installing water might as well go the whole way right?

Main thing is I'll be taking my time on this build so if there are any obvious errors, improvements I can make, or suggestions from your knowledgeable selves I'll be glad to hear them.

[Big_Daddy]

:welcome: to XS!!


Afternoon all,
Heres what I got:

D-Tek Fusion V2
Laing DDC 18w with XSPC top
Therm PA 120.3 with 1/2" barbs
Swiftech MCRES
3 x Yate Loon D12 SL12
Masterkleer 7/16 tubing
Feser 1 some shade of blue I think


I see the pa120.3 has barbs, did you order barbs for the v2, xspc top, and microres?

How much tubing did you get?

I know 7/16" tubing on 1/2" barbs, but just consider using hose clamps of some sort.

What proc do you have? if it's quad, did you get the quad midplate for the v2?

On the fans, I know you've ordered them. But I'd recommend getting the mediums, You can always put them on a reho and turn them down. But you can't turn them up. (get it :))

[lokitexas]

:welcome: to XS!!



I see the pa120.3 has barbs, did you order barbs for the v2, xspc top, and microres?

How much tubing did you get?

I know 7/16" tubing on 1/2" barbs, but just consider using hose clamps of some sort.

What proc do you have? if it's quad, did you get the quad midplate for the v2?

On the fans, I know you've ordered them. But I'd recommend getting the mediums, You can always put them on a reho and turn them down. But you can't turn them up. (get it :))

Way better than reply....which was "Looks good". But the crazy army squirrel made some good points! I still like the worm clamps for the hoses on the barbs. Secure and clean looking, and cheap.

[Big_Daddy]

<sigh> it's a Wombat, (long story) that's twice it's been called a squirrel..

[lokitexas]

<sigh> it's a Wombat, (long story) that's twice it's been called a squirrel..

Yes...that what makes it funny!

[thomas hobbes]

Cheers for the welcome!:)

Errr no, I didnt order the extra barbs for the parts you mentioned. Which are generally considered the best?

Have a Q6600 as per my sig but maybe switching to a 8500 so didnt wanna order the nozzle kit just yet.

As to the question of the medium fans, point taken.

Have ordered a ridiculous amount of tubing, at least 20 foot.

I have ordered some metal hose clips, just forgot to mention it in my OP.

Thanks for the replies.

[Big_Daddy]

Ahh.. Best... Well ask 3 different people, and you'll get 3 different answers.

I use Bitspower/DD Fatboys. (we stick together) Your v2 comes with D-Tek fittings (which work well) So if you stuck with D-TEK you'd be 1/3 the way there. You wanting a clean look, you might want to make sure you get all the same. Just remember, everything you have uses G1/4 EXECPT the pa120.3 which uses G3/8. Got it? good.

Oh, and did I mention? You need 2 per part. :)

[Snyxxx]

I also watercool for silence. The computer in my signature has just about everything watercooled on a PA120.2.

I do not think you mentioned what motherboard or case you will be using.

Just to save you some time, you might as well go for water on NB and SB if there are some annoying small fans. I did them (MCW 30s) and the two MOSFETs just for grins since the heat pipe was all conencted. Adding these four blocks did nothing to overall flow rate.

My other point is to go 3/8" ID 5/8" OD tubing on 1/2" barbs. I know you already ordered 7/16" tubing, but you need no clamps and it looks very clean.

Your case consideration. I use a PA120.2 because I can cleanly fit into my case internally. A PA120.3 would not fit. Just a consideration if you have not got the case yet.

[thomas hobbes]

A question regarding tubing. I already have masterkleer 7/16 as listed above but would prefer to use black tygon. which of these is most suitable to fit on 1/2" barbs. Sorry about the metric measurements.

http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/product.php?productid=5206 Tygon Tubing R3400 15.9 / 9.5 mm Black

http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/product.php?productid=5796 Tygon Tubing R3400 Black 11/8mm

http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/product.php?productid=5797 Tygon 3/8" (R3400) Tubing - Black

[Big_Daddy]

None, the 3/8" is the closest. And to get it over 1/2" barbs, you'll have to heat it(hot water in a cup), and expand the tubing with needlenose pliers.

Find another company that might have it. Searched for a few mins, found 1, but it was sold out (chilledpc)

[thomas hobbes]

None, the 3/8" is the closest. And to get it over 1/2" barbs, you'll have to heat it(hot water in a cup), and expand the tubing with needlenose pliers.

Find another company that might have it. Searched for a few mins, found 1, but it was sold out (chilledpc)

Yeah, I bought all my parts from chilledpc, but they're outta tygon for the foreseeable, as are most retailers over here.

Big Daddy, im getting conflicting advice. I posted the same question on another forum and was told to go for the middle one, the (11/8mm). Would that be the 3/8"?

And if so is there any harm in going the heating in hot water route?

[Fragger]

Have you thought about a xspc edge?http://www.chilledpc.co.uk/shop/product_info.php?products_id=640

They perform better than the D tek V2 with much less restriction to boot. Its a winner :yepp:

[thomas hobbes]

Ok, Ive recovered from a rather extended post graduation drinking binge and am aiming to get this build back on track. I've received all the parts listed in my OP, but still need to order quite a few more. The more completed builds I look at the more I want to do with mine. Bah! My credit card will take a hammering this month. :eek:

PSU: (my Seasonic S12 doesnt have long enough cables to effectivley route behind the mobo tray. I'm thinking replacing it with the Corsair 750w unless anyone knows of a better psu with very long cables?
Y-Piece
More barbs
Fillport
3 x 120mm fans
Some sort of absorbative material to mount the pump on. Was thinking foam?
Cable sleeving
SATA Optical Drive (cant be doing with unsightly IDE cables anymore)

I also got a very competitive quote from a powder coating firm local to me, so I may get the internals of the case coloured...we'll see.

I've conquered my aversion to all things DIY and have purchased a Dremel, hole saw bits etc. I cant see this rig turning out the way I envisioned unless I cut a few holes in the case here and there.

Finally, just wanted to know if its ok to put the GPU and a Q6600 on the same Rad (Therm 120.3) loop, will my CPU temps take a hammering? Shall I put the GPU on a separate smaller rad?

And if so can a Black Ice 240 and 120.3 fit in the bottom of the TJ07?

[MomijiTMO]

Your GPU is much hotter than your CPU but the 120.3 will handle both with ease.

[Congrats on graduating. I still have 2 something years ....]

[thomas hobbes]

I found these two brands of barbs:

Specialtech hi-flow barb: http://specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/product.php?productid=5043&cat=563&page=1

D-Tek Hi-flow barb: http://www.coolercases.co.uk/acatalog/Metal_Barbs.html

They look the same to me, apart from one being nickle-plated and the other chrome plated, is one better than the other?

[Snyxxx]

Someone else can confirm, but I think the D-tek have a recess in the head for the O-Ring to sit and not get distorted when tightening. I am pretty sure the High Flow are just the Danger Den barbs and do not havee the O-Ring groove.

[Waterlogged]

Someone else can confirm, but I think the D-tek have a recess in the head for the O-Ring to sit and not get distorted when tightening. I am pretty sure the High Flow are just the Danger Den barbs and do not havee the O-Ring groove.

+1

Looks that way to me as well.

[fadetoblack]

Have you thought about a xspc edge?http://www.chilledpc.co.uk/shop/product_info.php?products_id=640

They perform better than the D tek V2 with much less restriction to boot. Its a winner :yepp:

link please? just wanna see the test from where you're getting these results.

[Giannis86]

Have you thought about a xspc edge?http://www.chilledpc.co.uk/shop/product_info.php?products_id=640

They perform better than the D tek V2 with much less restriction to boot. Its a winner :yepp:

last time i checked it was better than the v1, not the v2...:rolleyes:
take a look at martins testing
http://www.martinsliquidlab.com/D-Tek_Fuzion_V2-Review.html
http://www.martinsliquidlab.com/img/D-TekFuzionV2-ThermalPerfo2.png
it is less restrictive and a solid performer though, thats for sure

[thomas hobbes]

Ok build almost finished but now just before leak testing inside the case Ive realised that I've clamped the Swiftech MCW30 directly onto the northbridge with no thermal pad in between the two. I did put a layer of MX-2 between them but thats it.

Ive a feeling this is wrong, whats the correct way?

[thomas hobbes]

Nice one.

[thomas hobbes]

Aaargh! Started leak testing and unfortunately I have leaks on both barbs on a mosfet block. Highly disappointing but not necessarily a disaster as I'm willing to remove the mosfet from the loop altogether and just cool the CPU and NB.

The other problem is my Laing DDC 18w Pump (rev 3.2). Even with 3 blocks in the loop the flow rate is unbelievably high, its churning up a storm in the res and creating heaps of bubbles making it impossible to bleed. Is there any way to make it run slower?

[Helfarch]

Aaargh! Started leak testing and unfortunately I have leaks on both barbs on a mosfet block. Highly disappointing but not necessarily a disaster as I'm willing to remove the mosfet from the loop altogether and just cool the CPU and NB.

The other problem is my Laing DDC 18w Pump (rev 3.2). Even with 3 blocks in the loop the flow rate is unbelievably high, its churning up a storm in the res and creating heaps of bubbles making it impossible to bleed. Is there any way to make it run slower?

You don't want to lower the flow, what is your loop order? It can also take some time to bleed properly just top off the res and let it go for a while. Check you've got the inlet and outlet connected properly on the res too.


<sigh> it's a Wombat, (long story) that's twice it's been called a squirrel..

That's no wombat.

[Bojamijams]

The bubbling will go away after some time. Just make sure your res level is high enough so that the inlet/outlet is completely submerged.

Or attach the pump to a controller to slow it down.

[thomas hobbes]

You don't want to lower the flow, what is your loop order? It can also take some time to bleed properly just top off the res and let it go for a while. Check you've got the inlet and outlet connected properly on the res too.


Loop order: res / pump / rad / cpu / mosfet / nb / res.

As said I'm going to remove the mosfet from the loop but keep the same order.

Reservoir is Cape Corp Coolplex Pro 25 External Reservoir (http://www.overclock.co.uk/product/Cape-Corp-Coolplex-Pro-25-External-Reservoir_1319.html) which Ive mounted internally and connections appear to be fine.

[thomas hobbes]

The bubbling will go away after some time. Just make sure your res level is high enough so that the inlet/outlet is completely submerged.

Or attach the pump to a controller to slow it down.

Ok guess I need to give it more time. Any links to a pump controller?

[Bojamijams]

There's the fanamp which is the cheapest and popular with some people http://www.t-balancer.com/english/produkt_1kanal.htm

You can also get a strong enough rheobus. The sunbeam 4 port rheobus can do 20W per channel which is enough for the pump.