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View Full Version : Ordering WC parts soon, Want to make sure this is ok =)



dingdong555
05-13-2008, 04:27 AM
Hey all.

Well recently i got myself a Silverstone TJ07 and am VERY happy with it =)

I have been wanting to go to water for a long time, I nearly have the cash and was wondering if this is a good selection below :O

All i want to do if get my Quad core 2.4ghz to get 3ghz STABLE, This sounds easy but over here in Australia temps in Summer get to ~40C (Over 100F)

Some people say that this will not be possible in summer, others say it will :shrug:

Here is what i wish to get,

http://i25.tinypic.com/2j32xp0.jpg

Tubing, I have no idea, i was told to get 3/8 for a tighter fit....What is the kind of tubing I should be looking at?

Also I am pretty sure i don't need to order extra barbs as i *THINK* i have covered them in the list :)

I was suggested the pump as if I EVER want to cool a GPU it should be fine!

Thanks in advance all! :D

kinghong1970
05-13-2008, 04:45 AM
i guess its a stretch but the pump of yours comes with native 1/2" fittings...

as for barbs... i hear a lot of rave bout DD fatboys... looks nice...
tho i like d-teks myself... am tempted to try soon...

tubing wise, you can go 7/16" ID tubing to give a tighter fit over your 1/2" barbs...

sure you dont wanna go mcr-320?

Block (2 barbs)
Rad (2 barbs)
Res (3 barbs including T-Line-fillport)

so you're short some barbs there...

[XC] NetburstXE
05-13-2008, 04:50 AM
My first suggestion is to upgrade to the MPC655 from the MPC655-B. The only difference that I know of is that the "B" version is always stuck at speed 4, whereas the non-"B" version can be set to anything from 1 to 5. Also, upgrade our radiator to a MCR320. It should only cost like $5 more, and will give you more room for expansion if you ever decide to add a graphics card. Finally, remove the green dye. It will look cool at first, but eventually it will mess up your tubing. In addition, it can get stuck in your rad, which will mess up the next loop you decide to use your parts with. All you need is distilled water and PT Nuke. As for tubing, I think you will want this (http://www.petrastechshop.com/7id5odtyrlat.html), but I could be wrong.

dingdong555
05-13-2008, 05:17 AM
Thanks heaps for the feedback :)

With the RAD, i was thinking of going with the MCR320 but for me to go to GPU W/C it is highly doubtful....will i get better temps though with a triple rad?

Coolant...If the one i have chosen can mess things up, have you got any suggestions for possible GREEN coolant?

Thanks again!

*BUMP, Main picture updated =0

kinghong1970
05-13-2008, 06:06 AM
Hydrix gives you a nice flourescent green...

dont forget the barb count... i think you need total of 7 barbs...

[XC] NetburstXE
05-13-2008, 07:18 AM
With a MCR320, you should be able to get 3.4 stable with good temps on your quad. If you are willing to push it more, you could probably get 3.6-3.8, but the temps wouldn't be so great.

Sparda
05-13-2008, 09:14 AM
Lap the Quad from 400 up to 2500 grid sandpaper. Usually you will get more than 5 degree temp drop. Just make sure you lap it properly and make it flat. Search and read several guide for that. :yepp:

Sparda
05-13-2008, 09:36 AM
Are you going to do push pull with that yates? If it were me I just save some bucks on the reservoir and take Microres and take 3 or 4 S-Flex F and do pull( I think there some discount on this). But that just me.:)

I think Sidewinder only sell Duralene 7/16 cheap tubing and there no Masterkleer there. But they are basicly the same. Of course there lots of tygon there. 3 meter of cheap duralene and off you go.

edit : 3ghz stable should be easy. Just make sure you cool the NB and PWM properly, good BIOS and RAM. Summer also come to europe too though only between 24 - 30 degree. Maybe hoter later. Btw most Q6600 can oc up to 3-3.3Ghz with default vcore.

dingdong555
05-13-2008, 03:33 PM
Thanks HEAPS guys =)

Yeah i was told push pull will be the best effect,I chose those fans as they aren't too loud and are cheap :) also push quite a bit of air! Maybe THESE (http://www.petrastechshop.com/12evbabe4pca.html) will be better?

Now barbs, some of the items come with barbs if i'm not wrong? I really like the "Danger Den/Bits Power Compression Fitting" but $6 for one :\ lol, i spose you save on clamps =)


So do you guys recommend THIS (http://www.petrastechshop.com/7id5odtyrlat.html) tubing?

Thanks again!

*Edit* My specs are

Asus P5KC
2x1gb of Team Xtreem Dark 800mhz,

With the Asus P5KC i don't think i can cool anything on it (Ie. NB,SB) but if im wrong, please tell me what i can use :)

Sparda
05-13-2008, 07:28 PM
If you gonna use 6 fan stick between 800-1000rpm. Wont hurt your ear. Yea the res come with some barbs. With that compression fitting you need 3/8 5/8 tube. But it tend to kink if you bend it a lot because the wall is thinner.

Well 7/16 tube and 1/2 barb wont need real clamps. Just some zipties or herbie clip if you want to be safe. That tygon tube is fine alright.

You can cool the NB with mcw30 if I not mistaken or with thermalright hr-05. But you gonna have problem find a cooler for the PWM. There none if I not mistaken.
SB wont need a super cooling just some 40mm fans will be better. Because it only control you devices.(hd raid usb blablabla)

Check this out some dude blow their FET on the p5kc.

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=151966&highlight=p5kc&page=6

dingdong555
05-14-2008, 12:12 AM
Thanks HEAPS for the help man!

Fans - Ok, How much air do you think a 6 fans need to push for a triple rad?

For the NB i saw you said you could have THIS (http://www.petrastechshop.com/swmcchco.html). On the description though it says "• Compatible with all current Asus SLI motherboards "

I have a crossfire board =) Will it still fit? Also for overclocking it is only useful to cool the NB correct? So i might aswell not cool the other =)

Coolant - Would i only need ONE of THESE (http://www.petrastechshop.com/swhyexduco.html) to fill up my loop + Res? I would probably get 2 bottles to be safe :) (Only $3 lol)

Tubing + fittings - Ok, so if i have 1/2"barbs, then for tubing i will need THIS (http://www.petrastechshop.com/7id5odtyrlat.html) correct? Any suggestions on how much? (Yes this is my first time W/C so I need more than just right :D) As for barbs I am still lost :shrug: lol


Dude...Thanks again man!

Sparda
05-14-2008, 01:53 AM
If you gonna do push pull stick with 7 volts or 700-1000rpm....easy with your ears and you got good temp.They already discuss this topic many time. Advance search > keyword > push pull > search title only
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/search.php?searchid=5821035

That mcw30 will fits a lot of mobo as long the holes between 53-60mm OR the two of wire clips is 80mm.Universal chipset blocks. But it sucks if you gonna mount it on your p5kc because you can only use one only one wire clip. You using Quad so cool your pwm properly..it stress your pwm.

Honestly if I plan to oc a quad to 3ghz I only buy a TRUE , lapp both cpu and TRUE and put 60 or 80mm delta fans on both pwm and NB.

You not mixing metal right(no aluminium)? So just go straight distilled and some PT nuke unless you want some UV effect...

Yea that tygon is right or you can go 7/16 Masterkleer. Just buy 3 meter or 9-10 foot. Usually there a little bit extra. It a PAIN to put it in though. 7/16 tube with 1/2 D-tek barbs you wont need any clamp unless you getting paranoid just buy zipties or herbie clip. I use D-Tek barb. So far no comptability problem.


edit : Btw first time watercooling dont puncture your rad , push the tube all the way in the barbs, and test leak.:)

Jimmer411
05-14-2008, 02:37 AM
ALWAYS use clamps or very tight zipties. Few $ in clamps can save you several hundred $ in hardware. Anyone who has enough traffic thru their bedroom/wherever that would gawk at the sight of a metal hose clamp, or is worried about it needs therapy. Its not like your putting spinner hubcaps on a BMW.



If you wanna save a few more $$ go with the masterkleer. The differences between the tygon and the masterkleer isnt noticeable since both have a very good bend radius, and if your not doing some insane bends it dont matter. Its like comparing angel soft to charmin...


Everything else looks good

dingdong555
05-14-2008, 03:44 AM
Thanks!

I was going to get hose clamps anyway as this is my first W/C build...So i want to be as safe as I can =)

As for the fans I am still confused :shrug:

This is what i got so far -

http://i28.tinypic.com/20scbro.jpg

Now as for my NB and SB, I have an Asus P5KC - North Bridge/Intel P35
South Bridge/Intel ICH9

For the NB i was suggested THIS (http://www.petrastechshop.com/swmcchco.html) But it says it is only for SLI boards :shocked: Mine is a Crossfire.

Is it necessary to cool the SB when i only want to clock the CPU??


Thanks again. You guys have been a HUGE help!

[XC] NetburstXE
05-14-2008, 05:16 AM
Get this (http://www.petrastechshop.com/encnonfocoso.html) for the southbridge. There is no point in WCing the southbridge unless it's for bling.

Sparda
05-14-2008, 08:25 AM
M8 I confuse wenn you said 2 times you have crossfire mobo. I thought you have 2 mobo. P5KC is not a crossfire mobo m8 unless somebody succesfully crossflash it with other x38 or x48 BIOS. Btw p35 chips cant do crossfire unless somebody say I wrong.

Dont save on tube m8. It cheap masterkleer just take 9 or 10 foot and there a little bit extra.

Like I said you can only use one wire clip with that mcw30 for mounting on p5kc which is sucks. You also gonna have problem finding aftermarket cooling for your pwm. Which will force you to cut the heatpipe of the original cooling.

Btw sometimes the contact between the FET and the pwm block is not good when you are using TIM because of the board bending or uneven FET position. The best is to use thick thermalpad like they use with the thermalright block.

You will think twice to put that worm clamp on once you try snug that 7/16 masterkleer tube into 1/2 d-tek barb. It very hard if it a new tube and without boiling water. Somebody said EK barbs is easier to put on and it also fits good with zipties.

No hydrx mate just straight distilled water and some pt nuke. Just buy D-Tek dye if you want some green UV. (heard some bad things bout other dye)


EDIT : Watercool HEATKILLER SW13 will fit on the mosfet of P5KC. And also Watercool HEATKILLER NSB 11 on the NB

78623

78624

78625

dingdong555
05-15-2008, 04:26 AM
Thanks for all the help =)

As i was trying to say, Is there actually ANY need to cool the NB + SB if i only want to OC my CPU (Not extremely)?

Thanks again.

disruptfam
05-15-2008, 04:34 AM
no you will be right mate @ those speeds maybe chuck a fan on them @ most

i run mine @ 3.6ghz during summer. temps arent great but haven't had any problems yet

dingdong555
05-15-2008, 04:37 AM
no you will be right mate @ those speeds maybe chuck a fan on them @ most

i run mine @ 3.6ghz during summer. temps arent great but haven't had any problems yet

Awesome mate!

Any ideas on the coolant? is the HydrX one ok?

disruptfam
05-15-2008, 04:46 AM
i run straight distilled no dye just a few drops of pt_nuke they sell that @ petras

if you want green then hydrx is a good choice has the additives you need

lokitexas
05-15-2008, 05:14 AM
i run straight distilled no dye just a few drops of pt_nuke they sell that @ petras

if you want green then hydrx is a good choice has the additives you need

:up: I agree. Strait water and anti-algae....you will thank me in the end.:up:

dingdong555
05-15-2008, 11:42 PM
:up: I agree. Strait water and anti-algae....you will thank me in the end.:up:

HydrX -

Features:

• UV Sensitive
• 1 bottle (2.0 oz) : 1 liter (33 oz) Distilled water
• Anti-Freeze agent: Ethylene Glycol
• Prohibits oxidation, formation of algae, improves heat transfer

Looks good to me :up:

Sparda
05-16-2008, 03:29 AM
Yep in the end it all up to you. We just here to give oppinion. Btw go to advance search >> keywords >>hydrx >> search titles only. You will find out why there diffence oppinion. It all just come down to personal preference.:)