View Full Version : Dye and Water.
jadeskye
04-06-2008, 02:39 PM
Quick question for you guys. i've got my 343b in the hands of my cousin who's drawing all over it to make it sexy. while thats done i'm planning how to shoehorn a watercooling system into it.
I've noticed the xtreme users here tend to run pure de-ionised, distilled water in their systems. is that because dye can do something to your system? or just a cosmetic thing?
Big_Daddy
04-06-2008, 02:42 PM
Quick question for you guys. i've got my 343b in the hands of my cousin who's drawing all over it to make it sexy. while thats done i'm planning how to shoehorn a watercooling system into it.
I've noticed the xtreme users here tend to run pure de-ionised, distilled water in their systems. is that because dye can do something to your system? or just a cosmetic thing?
Pure Distilled with a biocide (like pt-nuke) not de-ionized. And yes, dye can muck up your system. It's pretty, but it will gunk up, and clog your water blocks. Every flush, you'll have to clean out your blocks.
jadeskye
04-06-2008, 02:48 PM
damn, i guess a water replacement like fluid XP (yeah i know, it's got a bad write up) would give a similar problem?
Sorry to go off your thread a bit, but how about Primochill ICE dyed products?
Big_Daddy
04-06-2008, 02:56 PM
heh,, you just opened up a whole can of worms saying that name.. :) The liquid which shall remain nameless, cause a hole lot of problems. Wrecking tubing etc. Unless you are running different metals (copper AND Aluminum) you don't need anything besides distilled water, and biocide. (Biocide gets rid of the algae that will grow in the water)
Now what a lot of people are going to is the colored tubing for that added *flair*.
OK, I've tries alot of dies in the past 6 months or so, most recent Feser. Here is a quick rundown.
Also be advised, its very annoying to take your loop apart and clean all the damn crevices in the WBs and Rad.
If your building for your friend, don't screw him with UV Dyes but go for UV tubing instead.
DON'T USE LIST
--------------------------------
D-TEK dye (clogging)
Primochill dye bombs (clogging)
Fluid XP (some batches are bad)
Danger Den (manufactured as auto tracer and designed to decompose in 24h)
APPROVED LIST
--------------------------------
Pentosin G11 (not very reactive but doesn't clog)
HydrX (lubricating, algicide, not very reactive relativley)
Feser one (so far; very reactive and non clogging going on 3 weeks now)