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View Full Version : Finished P180 build with pics



ixtapalapaquetl
03-12-2008, 06:13 PM
First off, thanks to all the helpful and knowledgeable folks around here for all your collective insight. This is a fantastic little subcommunity. Even though this was my first WC build, it was effortless because of all the information here.

Parts list:
Iwaki MD20-RZT
FuZion CPU block with 4.4mm nozzle and a modified ProMount
PA120.3
7/16 ID tubing
3 sets of Koolance V3 quick disconnects
Sunbeam Rheobus
Lots of Sanyo Denki and Yate Loon fans

My design goals were to keep the interior of my case (more specifically the motherboard area) as clean as possible so that there would be plenty of airflow over the critical areas. This led me to route my tubing and radiator externally. As the pics below reveal, I am clearly not interested in bling.

First up is the interior:

http://img214.imageshack.us/img214/8307/fullinteriorys1.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

As you can see, I hacked out the upper hard drive bay and the PSU area so I could put my Iwaki down below. This serves two purposes. First, it places my tubing in the back out of the way where I wanted it. Second, since the Iwaki runs so hot, I wanted it isolated from the critical areas. This required me to move my PSU to the upper chamber. I cut a hole in the upper chamber so I could actively cool the pump (you can't tell from the pick but the underside of the pump is elevated so air can blow all around it). I also placed a fan in the optical drive bays (upper right corner) that can't be seen.

Here is a better picture of the PSU:

http://img148.imageshack.us/img148/2417/psuradjm6.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

The rheobus sits atop the PSU. Kind of ugly there, but as the wires don't impede airflow, it didn't matter. You can also see the PA120.3 mounted up top. I have it attached with wing nuts so it can be easily moved out a window for cold NYC benching sessions. Home Depot was out of brackets so I had to get creative. Meh. Ugly but very functional.

Here is a closeup of the block area:

http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/4825/blocktq7.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

You can see that I inserted a threaded rod into one of the mobo standoffs; this is what supports the fan over the RAM/Northbridge area. Since my IHS is removed, I could not get sufficient pressure from the ProMount. So I cut off the spring assembly, turned it upside down so the flanges angled upwards instead of downwards, and strapped it down with screws through the backplate.

Here is the front (which is a total hack job):

http://img262.imageshack.us/img262/5219/frontou4.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

Not too much to say here other than I LOVE having my power supply switch near the power/reset buttons. It seems so obvious now, but I had never thought about it before. You can also see I added a fan at the bottom in front of the lower hard drive chamber.

Finally, the back of the case:

http://img267.imageshack.us/img267/7572/backyy5.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

It's a little hard to see what's going on here - sorry about that. I was a little too aggressive on my T-line; I will probably trim that down at some point. I used the quick disconnects to form three independent systems - the rad, the block, and the pump. Any one of them can be easily removed without affecting the others. You might also notice that two of them are right angled. I figured I had more than enough flow with my Iwaki so took a few otherwise avoidable liberties. My last little trick was to create an extension tube using quick disconnects. When I want to put the rad out the window, I will insert this section between the rad and the inlet to the case (all the way up top) allowing me to move it easily.

Well, it has been a blast building this. Not the prettiest, but I am very happy with the result nonetheless. Thanks again for all the help!

ownage
03-12-2008, 06:28 PM
Clean it up and give it some UV lights or led/uv fans. Also a better cable management would be needed. Great hardware en WC stuff, but that thing is butt ugly :p:

I see in you're sig you run a naked e8400? How are the temps?

AndyM
03-12-2008, 06:32 PM
Hey, I'm sure it really gets the job done for sure with that pump and nozzle! :up:

Question on the IHS-less 8400...is that still soldered to the die or some sort of phase-change/goop material like on the Allendales (21xx)?

ixtapalapaquetl
03-12-2008, 06:48 PM
Clean it up and give it some UV lights or led/uv fans. Also a better cable management would be needed. Great hardware en WC stuff, but that thing is butt ugly :p:I am obviously coming from a different place regarding aesthetics! To me, the functionality is the most beautiful element of my design. UV lights and other such accouterments serve me no purpose (though I certainly respect others who are into that sort of thing).

Hey, I'm sure it really gets the job done for sure with that pump and nozzle!

Question on the IHS-less 8400...is that still soldered to the die or some sort of phase-change/goop material like on the Allendales (21xx)?My chip was wicked hot before removing the IHS and was wicked hot after. Hardly any appreciable temp improvement. That's what motivated the water build (which garnered me somewhere in the neighborhood of 15C improvement at load).

"Solder" is far too strong of a term. There was some stuff there, but the lid popped off on its own while I was razoring the edges without even requiring the application of any heat. Here's a pic:

http://img340.imageshack.us/img340/2375/ihsux4.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

NaeKuh
03-12-2008, 07:28 PM
ROFL... nice move putting the psu up front. Now you have a face or leg heater! :D

But anyhow, nice build! :up:

AndyM
03-13-2008, 03:16 AM
My chip was wicked hot before removing the IHS and was wicked hot after. Hardly any appreciable temp improvement. That's what motivated the water build (which garnered me somewhere in the neighborhood of 15C improvement at load).

"Solder" is far too strong of a term. There was some stuff there, but the lid popped off on its own while I was razoring the edges without even requiring the application of any heat. Here's a pic:

http://img340.imageshack.us/img340/2375/ihsux4.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

Excellent photo, really helps confirm things. Looks like solder to me...so no funky thermals like on the paste/??? interface of lesser cpu's (I'm still waiting to beat on an 8500 if they ever become available). How high Orthos stable does that one go?

ixtapalapaquetl
03-13-2008, 01:14 PM
Excellent photo, really helps confirm things. Looks like solder to me...so no funky thermals like on the paste/??? interface of lesser cpu's (I'm still waiting to beat on an 8500 if they ever become available). How high Orthos stable does that one go?4.2GHz+ with insane temps on air, 4.3GHz on water.

afX
03-13-2008, 01:26 PM
looks well done from a technical standpoint and since this is the first build, its the most important, you can only improve from here! nj! :clap:

lior307
03-13-2008, 04:17 PM
good WC man ,
Is your Radiator a Thermochill ???
Can you post Temps ??
Idle and Load ??

ixtapalapaquetl
03-13-2008, 05:29 PM
good WC man ,
Is your Radiator a Thermochill ???
Can you post Temps ??
Idle and Load ??
Yes, Thermochill PA120.3. Current ambients are about 27C. Despite RealTemp's adjusted Tjmax, I am still skeptical about my temperatures' accuracy. You should have seen the load temps on air!!!

Idle:

http://img229.imageshack.us/img229/7557/idle2bw4.jpg (http://imageshack.us)


Load:

http://img229.imageshack.us/img229/7321/load2vm8.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

starlon
03-13-2008, 05:44 PM
That's one ugly rig. ;) That pump is massive. Makes me wonder if it would have fit in my case. What model?