Wie! Just got my package! Installtion question.

[paranoiid]

Hey guys, just got my package from chilledpc.co.uk (Thanks Tom!).

The problem now is that im unsure how im going to install the radiator properly.

The screwholes dont go straight through and you can only insert the screws 1 cm in without destroying the "fins" (forgot what its called in english : p).

Ill be installing it here:
http://i26.tinypic.com/2nvy1s2.jpg
Instead of the Rear Vent (picture) mine came with already installed holes for watercooling and those are the only option I have. So I want to attatch the radiator with the "bottom" section in the exhaust hole (else the radiator would cover one of the holes).

So my question is: How am I going to make this happen? Can the radiator/screws take the weight without breaking?
And how should I install the fans? Im going to disassemble a fan and use that as a radbox so that the radiator can get away from the case. So should I install the fans towards the case or behind it? Id go for behind but some dude said that I should install them towards the case.

Thanks :)

[Jimmer411]

if you have open corner fans you can screw the fan straight to the rad and then screw the fan to the case. the screws will easily support the weight of the rad.

[Jedda]

You want the air to come from the coolest source, so as the air from the case is heated ...

You might consider making up some stand off brackets. That'd improve access to your I/O slots and the rear ports.
Brackets can get it out around 75 - 100mm for clearence and better airflow.

[NEvolution]

This is how I have mine mounted with the barbs at the bottom using the two included holes.

http://img149.imageshack.us/img149/2081/22316485620dde129a75bdo9.jpg

In your case, you'd have a pitted fan housing rather than the radbox.

[paranoiid]

You want the air to come from the coolest source, so as the air from the case is heated ...

You might consider making up some stand off brackets. That'd improve access to your I/O slots and the rear ports.
Brackets can get it out around 75 - 100mm for clearence and better airflow.

So ill just get some extra long screws?


This is how I have mine mounted with the barbs at the bottom using the two included holes.

http://img149.imageshack.us/img149/2081/22316485620dde129a75bdo9.jpg

In your case, you'd have a pitted fan housing rather than the radbox.

Mkay, so why do you have the fans towards the case? x) Just wondering. What direction is the air flowing, are they sucking or pushing?
And you use nuts on the "inside" of the radiators shieldthingy, aye?

__

Edit: How long should I leak test? I will be warming upp Masterkleer hoses and then really tighten them with some hoseclips and im using the Feser One coolant and that is suppose to be nonconductive. I dont have any problem waiting, its just that I need to install all the hoses and blocks inside the case, then remove the blocks while theyre still inside and attatched to the hoses and it would just be so much more convient if i didnt have to do that ;p
I know you cant be 100% sure but like, 99% sure of no leaks? :o

[NEvolution]

I don't really through the process of leak testing anymore. I guess it has kind of combined with the bleeding procedure.
The Masterkleer fits nice and snug on the barbs so that's a +1 towards no leaks. The only barbs with zipties on them are the ones on the rad. All the other fittings are free of any clamps, etc.

The fans are all facing towards the back...
I don't have anything to lock the radbox in place so I just put the nuts on both sides to keep it in place.

Btw, I believe I got 6-32 3" screws.

[paranoiid]

I don't really through the process of leak testing anymore. I guess it has kind of combined with the bleeding procedure.
The Masterkleer fits nice and snug on the barbs so that's a +1 towards no leaks. The only barbs with zipties on them are the ones on the rad. All the other fittings are free of any clamps, etc.

The fans are all facing towards the back...
I don't have anything to lock the radbox in place so I just put the nuts on both sides to keep it in place.

Btw, I believe I got 6-32 3" screws.

So you reckon i can get away without leak testing?
They are? :o in that case I bought like 15 hoseclips for nothing? ;p The MCW60 also came with some hoseclips.
Ive heard that removing masterkleer from the fittings is almost impossible if you first warm them up in water, snug them on and let them cool off.

[turtletrax]

I don't really through the process of leak testing anymore. I guess it has kind of combined with the bleeding procedure.
The Masterkleer fits nice and snug on the barbs so that's a +1 towards no leaks. The only barbs with zipties on them are the ones on the rad. All the other fittings are free of any clamps, etc.



I am going to have to disagree with about everything you said right there. The time spent testing for leaks and securing tubing more than pays for one failure.

If you are going to do something, do it right. I mean it takes all of 3 minutes to zip-tie/clamp your tubing down.

[NEvolution]

So you reckon i can get away without leak testing?
They are? :o in that case I bought like 15 hoseclips for nothing? ;p The MCW60 also came with some hoseclips.
Ive heard that removing masterkleer from the fittings is almost impossible if you first warm them up in water, snug them on and let them cool off.
If this is your first time doing watercooling, I guess it would be a good idea for you to clamp the hoses. Testing the loop for leaks would be beneficial too.

To be honest, heating up the tubing then placing over the fittings creates are very tight fit. I use a razor to cut the tubing when I need to change it. Pulling does nothing.

I'm not using the barbs that came with the MCW60 so I can't vouch for them.


I am going to have to disagree with about everything you said right there. The time spent testing for leaks and securing tubing more than pays for one failure.

If you are going to do something, do it right. I mean it takes all of 3 minutes to zip-tie/clamp your tubing down.
The Masterkleer holds onto the fittings very snug and tight. If I don't need to use them then I might as well not.
To all their own.

[bf2142lol]

I am going to have to disagree with about everything you said right there. The time spent testing for leaks and securing tubing more than pays for one failure.

If you are going to do something, do it right. I mean it takes all of 3 minutes to zip-tie/clamp your tubing down.

+1 It ant worth the risk just becuz you lazy and can only manage a half assd job.

[NEvolution]

It's not about being lazy and doing a half ass job.

To be honest, zip ties do not wrap around fully anyway.
So if the tubing isn't being held down fully then I might as well not use zip ties at all. (Rather go with more secure clamps)
I am confident that the tubing is snug and tight over the fitting and if I weren't, I would go out and buy some worm clamps (or similar).