Planning a new setup

[filthysanchez]

I've already ordered these parts:

Stacker 810
MX-2
Ceramique for the VRAM
MCP655(I doidn't want a DDC, too many bad stories)
T barb and a y barb
MCR-220
MCR-320
20 feet Masterkleer 7/16" ID tubing
EK 8800 gt block
D-tek Fuzion+accelerator kit
10 Yate Loon D12SM-12

I'm planning on setting it up like so:

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y10/filthysanchez09/tline.png

I'm not sure if the FuZion has a backplate, and I also need to know where to get the adapter for the back of the 810 so I can mount the MCR-220. I can also just cut it and order a radgrill or something.

This is what I've got so far(I'm waiting on 3 more packages, the last should be here by Jan. 2nd)

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y10/filthysanchez09/Picture004Small.jpg

(I'll have to get some more screws at ace or something, neither home depot nor lowes had 6/32)


Are there any problems anyone can see?

I watched all the danger den videos about setting the loop up, but is there anything else I need to be aware of?


The system includes:

e6750
Abit IP35-E
eVGA 8800gt
Stacker 810
Ultra X-Finity 500 watt PSU
2 IDE hard drives(not shown)

[chiguy]

Backplate for Fuzion:
http://www.dtekcustoms.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=205&HS=1

[filthysanchez]

How do I go about flushing the rads?

[Lunatock]

I use 1:1:1 of distilled water, vinegar, and isopropyl alcohol, but vinegar is usually fine by itself. Fill it up with distilled water first, shake it around and drain it, fill it again, repeat until water is a clear(er), and then fill with vinegar (or what I said) for a few hours.

[Waterlogged]

I use 1:1:1 of distilled water, vinegar, and isopropyl alcohol, but vinegar is usually fine by itself. Fill it up with distilled water first, shake it around and drain it, fill it again, repeat until water is a clear(er), and then fill with vinegar (or what I said) for a few hours.

filthysanchez, ignore the post I've quoted. That is an outdated method of doing things and it really should be removed from the stickies if it hasn't been. All new rad that are RoHS compliant should not be cleaned with vinegar or any other kind of acidic/solvent based cleaner/chemical.

Just flush with running hot tap water for ~15 min then do a final rinse with distilled water. Fill rad with distilled, shake for ~ 5 min then drain, and you should be set.

[momoceio]

Actually, vinegar is reported to attack the copper inside the radiator. Most manufacturers are now recommending just using boiling hot distilled. Pour some in, shake it around and repeat a few times.

[Lunatock]

Don't soak it through the apocalypse and you don't have anything to worry about.

[Waterlogged]

The solder is different now, it no longer has any lead (hence the RoHS stickers). I don't think the lead free solder holds up nearly as well to the vinegar as the leaded did.

[Chewbenator]

I even wouldn't put it through tap water since not all tap water is made equal. For example, at my house our tap water really sucks, I fill up my fish's bowl with it and it is slimy green after a week. But, the water at Iowa State is really good, don't have to clean the bowl for a month if I wanted to. Depending on where you live there can be more bio in the water than other places, and of course this will work your way into your loop. There have been examples of bio building up even with biocide. So, I would suggest distilled. I used room temp distilled to clean out my rad and it didn't build up anything after 4 months when I disassembled it. If you want extra security use boiling.

[filthysanchez]

I suppose I'll go buy some more distilled water while I wait for my stacker.

Also, where can I get more G11 at? I bought a 4 oz thing from petra, but it's not going to last forever.

[Isriam]

i flush mine with hot tap water (not scalding) until it runs clean, then flush with distilled water to clean it well.

[momoceio]

I suppose I'll go buy some more distilled water while I wait for my stacker.

Also, where can I get more G11 at? I bought a 4 oz thing from petra, but it's not going to last forever.

Same stuff...it's just vehicle coolant.

You get a lot more and it's cheaper :) Or just stop by a VW dealer and pick some up...

http://www.blauparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=G001100

[filthysanchez]

Same stuff...it's just vehicle coolant.

You get a lot more and it's cheaper :) Or just stop by a VW dealer and pick some up...

http://www.blauparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=G001100

Is there any certain brand that a Carquest/walmart/autozone would have?

I'm kinda grounded from driving for the next couple days, got a bad speeding ticket.(90 in a 65)

[momoceio]

I'm not sure if they sell that same stuff at an auto store but you can also just use normal anti-freeze in a 1:9 or 1:10 solution. It's good for the pump too since it has lubricants in it :D

[momoceio]

Oh yeah, if you're not planning on mixing metals in your loop you can just use Iodine instead of anti-freeze

[Kayin]

Normal antifreeze is not pet or kid safe. As such, we don't recommend it any more. Get propylene glycol, which lubricates as well and is safe for pets/kids.

Important stuff, as ethylene glycol spills are sweet, look like Kool-Aid, and kills in small doses for pets, and slightly larger for kids.

[momoceio]

Well, if you don't have pets or kids then it's fine. Unless you have a sweet tooth..lol

Pentosin is also toxic though...so I don't see much of a difference.

[filthysanchez]

I have dogs, but they stay out of my room, and I'm the youngest at 16.

I have some PT Nuke, if I can get away with that and ~5% G11 I'll be set coolant wise.

[momoceio]

The only reason you really need the g11 is if you have different metals in your loop...so if all your parts are copper then there is no need to worry.

[Serpentarius]

well .. other ppl wont tell u .. but u can actually taste the glycol with ur tongue and it's really sweet, but also bit bitter .. make sure u wash ur mouth throughly after that ..

dun haunt me if u swallow it ..

btw .. i dun recommend to put glycol on ur loop coz it can go airborne .. u'll be inhaling more than 8 hours a day .. it's gonna take a certain toll in years .. dun wan to get premature lung cancer do u?

[filthysanchez]

I got the front Rad installed today, but it's pretty ghetto. I had to use the wire for hanging up frames, and I wrapped it around, and tied it together, but it seems to hold well, just so long as I don't do something stupid like put my case upside down(which would make my pump fall too)

I'm going to have to cut and drill new mounting holes for the MCR220 in the back, and I'll probably order one of the cheaper radgrillz to make it pretty.

[septim]

dont forget the pictures...

[filthysanchez]

I have the loop filled, and I'm waiting for the small bubbles to bleed out, but I installed the tubing on the fuzion wrong(intake hose on outake barb, outlet on intake)

I'm probably going to fix it soon, but boy is it a pain in the ass to bleed.

[disruptfam]

no pics?

[septim]

pics of speeding ticket? lolz...

[filthysanchez]

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y10/filthysanchez09/computer/zz016Small.jpg

I need to make a HD mount, I'll probably make it at the top where the 80 mm fan usually goes, seeing as there's no room at all behing the 320.

I'll also do some cable management when I disassemble everything.

[disruptfam]

ghetto....

i like it...

The hd looks good how it is...

no leaks? good :)

[filthysanchez]

Yeah, no leaks, but there's a bit of air that doesn't wanna come out of the GPU block.

I'll have time to take care of it all when I can make screw in brackets for the front rad, and a HD cage.

Right now, I idle at 38 C and load at 45 with the intake and outlet mixed up on my e6750@stock

[disruptfam]

abit of air... i hope you mean like a small bubble not a air pocket?

should blleed that out before powering pc on yes?

try rocking you case side to side to dislodge bubble... ( while off btw)

[filthysanchez]

It's a little pocket, it doesn't hurt the GPU temps(Idles at 40, dunno about load yet)

I still have a few microbubbles left, but this is going to be drained and fixed soon.

edit:46 C in atitool, but I don't think that's how you load it. Any sure way to get 100% load on the GPU?

[disruptfam]

3dmark06

[filthysanchez]

Yeah, it's still 46 C GPU load.

[taowulf]

rthdrbl is highly effective as checking GPU temps. it will peak your card's temps faster than 3Dmark06 and will keep it them that way as long as you run it.

Nice check for stabilty when overclocking too.

[septim]

yes i see alot of space (upper mobo) for hd cages...

[taowulf]

Top mounting the 2x120 rad in that STC-801 would clear up some of the clutter too.or at least spread it out a bit.

Also, hard drive mounting brackets can be very cheap. I have seen them under 5 bucks. or you can go with more expensive "cooling" types.

What all is in the front bays? There should be at least 10 or 11 to use. :)

[filthysanchez]

Top mounting the 2x120 rad in that STC-801 would clear up some of the clutter too.or at least spread it out a bit.

Also, hard drive mounting brackets can be very cheap. I have seen them under 5 bucks. or you can go with more expensive "cooling" types.

What all is in the front bays? There should be at least 10 or 11 to use. :)

MCR320 takes up 9 bays, then I have a sunbeam rheobus, the stacker front panel, and a non-operational(not enough IDE ports) DVD drive.

I'd also like to keep it stock for now, and if anything, it'll be the 320 in the top.

I'd like to get a 500 gig SATA hard drive, then a non-raptor 80-160 gig SATA drive to replace the 200+250 IDE ones I have now. I'd just sell the IDE ones I have now or use them in a HTPC/give them to my brother, along with my old computer.

[filthysanchez]

I ordered the 320 black ACryan stripes radgrill, and I plan on moving the 220 up front, so I can have some space for the HDDs and less clutter in general.

I'll probably do pull only with the 320 now though, but I'll see when I strip it down to do it all.

[filthysanchez]

Option 1:
http://img186.imageshack.us/img186/9551/topmount2rr3.png



Option 2:
http://img266.imageshack.us/img266/7194/topmountno8.png


Any suggestions/comments?

[filthysanchez]

bump

[Nate P.]

Option 2 looks pretty good! I've never seen a loop configured that way with the fillport on a Y...

[filthysanchez]

Are there any drawbacks to that though?

I made a nice fillport out of a half inch brass hosebarb, and I threaded the inside to 7/16", so I'm probably going to use that until I wanna fork out for an EKres or build one of my own.

[Nate P.]

Are there any drawbacks to that though?
Bleeding the air out might pose a challenge.

[Waterlogged]

Actually, a slightly modified option 1 would work better. Place the T in the line between the drive bay rad and CPU, this way you'll fill up more of the loop before you even turn the pump on. It also has the benefit of being one of the higher points in the loop, which is where air will collect when you turn off the pump.

[septim]

you could fit the 220 up front, while the 320 up top, you could fashion some HD brackets and mount your rad to the 320 rad... sort of like those MM uses HD-fan brackets...

[filthysanchez]

you could fit the 220 up front, while the 320 up top, you could fashion some HD brackets and mount your rad to the 320 rad... sort of like those MM uses HD-fan brackets...


I'd going to use two of those 5.25 inch rubber things, although I'll probably make my own with some linoleum mats or something.

[filthysanchez]

Actually, a slightly modified option 1 would work better. Place the T in the line between the drive bay rad and CPU, this way you'll fill up more of the loop before you even turn the pump on. It also has the benefit of being one of the higher points in the loop, which is where air will collect when you turn off the pump.


I was just thinking about this, and how would I be able to fill the loop if I didn't have the T line right before the pump?

[Waterlogged]

I was just thinking about this, and how would I be able to fill the loop if I didn't have the T line right before the pump?

Easier than with option 1. ;)

With the T higher, everything below it will fill with water. I would lay the case on it's side with the top of it ~2"-4" higher so the water can travel through the lower rad easier, that "should" be hard part to fill up. You will eventually fill up almost the entire loop without turning the pump on, you'll just have that pesky rad up top to worry about after that. Just remember that slow and steady with a syringe will fill the loop pretty fast.

[septim]

lay pc on its side, fill up T-Line, add a few things on the bottom part to incline bottom case so that rad on top would now be the on the bottom (est part) and loop would be easier to fill... hope this helps, else its exercise with tilt and turn to fill and bleed your loop...

[filthysanchez]

I bought a turkey marinating syringe, a baster, and some funnels last night, and I think I can just pump water through with the baster until I get it where it needs to be, then I can do the rest of the bleeding with the pump.

I got my order from Frozen CPU in, so I can install evwerything how I'd like to soon.

[filthysanchez]

Anyone know where I can get 1-2 feet of 2" acrylic tubing?

I bought some PVC and barbs+tap, but I'd prefer acrylic.

[chiguy]

http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=USPlastic&category%5Fname=21315&product%5Fid=11248

[filthysanchez]

I'll probably order that, then use the plain PVC endcaps and the brass fittings I bought earlier. I want an EK style res, but I didn't wanna drop 40 bucks on it, although that's probably what it's gonna cost me when I finish.

[kevinbo03]

Nice case ;)

Im hoping to eventually add a second radiator to my 810, Likely a 220 on the back.

[filthysanchez]

Got a lot done since I last posted a picture, I'll put another up soon.

39C load on both CPU cores, 44 on GPU now with MCP655@setting 1, 6.3 mm washer

[filthysanchez]

This is how I have it right now. There's a bit to be worked on still, but at least I have the loop done.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y10/filthysanchez09/computer/Picture003.jpg


These are the fan adapters I made, but they don't seem to work, anyone know why this may be?

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y10/filthysanchez09/computer/Picture007.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y10/filthysanchez09/computer/Picture008.jpg

[Xilikon]

look at my own worklog, I made the same adapter and you might see why.

[filthysanchez]

look at my own worklog, I made the same adapter and you might see why.

I'm just trying to figure out why the one I made won't work, and I can't seem to figure it out from your worklog.

[Xilikon]

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c338/Xilikon/DSCF1293.jpg

I think the 4-pin molex end is not in the right place. You may have tapped into the 5V line (yellow) instead of the 12V line (red) on the 4-pin molex.

[filthysanchez]

I made it specifically to use 5v instead of 12, I'm going for a quieter build. I figured out that I had the ground and live wires mixed up though, so I can finish my build up for the most part today.

[Xilikon]

Ground is the middle wires and power is the outer wires. Just swap them :)

[filthysanchez]

It's done for now.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y10/filthysanchez09/computer/IMG_0332.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y10/filthysanchez09/computer/IMG_0333.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y10/filthysanchez09/computer/IMG_0337.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y10/filthysanchez09/computer/IMG_0338.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y10/filthysanchez09/computer/IMG_0349.jpg