Unlock your XP2100 without cutting Bridges!!

[OPPAINTER]

Thats right folks, I just unlocked a XP2100 without cutting any Bridges.

You have to still close your L1 bridges but then you just use the 2 pin method.
http://www.vr-zone.com/Home/news152/TBred.gif
http://vr-zone.com/Home/news152/news152.htm#2501

Personally I used Conductive Ink instead of the wire.

OPP:D

[mdzcpa]

Sweet:)....great info OPP!

[OPPAINTER]

Originally posted by mdzcpa
Sweet:)....great info OPP!

Works great, all multipliers from 5-12.5

OPP

[MrIcee]

Nice job my man !!

Randi:D

[DaGooch]

Great find OP! Cutting bridges are not fun. :(

[OPPAINTER]

There you go Gooch, it will make job much easier:D

OPP

[candjac]

Kudos, Great mod, conductive trace also much more stable than loose wire loop. Works cause the 8X Bit Value Signal Bus gets grounded thru its closed L1 bridge thru its AJ27 pin to the nearby Vss= Gd pin. Any ground of a default HI Multiplier Signal Bus resets it LO.

Speaking of grounds, the leftmost L1 bridge trace looks to be awfully close to the triangular icon which is reported to be at ground level. Can you set nn.5X Multipliers?? (If not then that wide trace contacting icon might be problem).
Just curious.

[OPPAINTER]

candjac

They all work up to up to 12.5 so it may be close but I guess It cleared the Triangle.

OPP

[Iolao]

greati info! :D

[Kefka]

I read on that post at vr-zone that that was an alternative to closing the 5th L3 bridge, has anyone tried that?

Also, when connecting the L1 bridges, should the trenches between the bridges be filled with conductive material, or left empty?

[stoopid]

Originally posted by Kefka
I read on that post at vr-zone that that was an alternative to closing the 5th L3 bridge, has anyone tried that?

Also, when connecting the L1 bridges, should the trenches between the bridges be filled with conductive material, or left empty?

I was going to ask a similar question, kinda... yes, the trenches/pits still need to be filled...

My question: what exactly does this PIN mod do? I'm a little behind (and not planning on getting a tbred until the 1700+ version is released and prices come down).

[DaGooch]

Basically, it resets the high multiplier signal (13X and above) to low (12.5X and below) as Candjac explained because of the shorted condition of the NC pin to ground. This has the same effect as closing the right most bridge in the L3 area for the Thoroughbred and not having to cut the right bridge and connecting the left bridge of the L10 area on the Palamino.

[stoopid]

Originally posted by DaGoochMeister
Basically, it resets the high multiplier signal (13X and above) to low (12.5X and below) as Candjac explained because of the shorted condition of the NC pin to ground. This has the same effect as closing the right most bridge in the L3 area for the Thoroughbred and not having to cut the right bridge and connecting the left bridge of the L10 area on the Palamino.

So this only helps to unlock multipliers above 12.5? I have very little experience needing to do anything but unlock and set the L11's for 1.85v :rolleyes:

[DaGooch]

12.5X and below with pin mod and the usual L1 area connections.

[stoopid]

Alright alright, so this is THE WAY to unlock the Tbred then, it's another step added to the palomino process... I see now...

[Kefka]

ok, I have an xp2100+ (palimino (im assuming this because its green)) ive tried filling in the the L1 bridges including the pits and trying the pin mod, and connecting the 5th L3 bridge. I tried these and my cpu wouldnt post, now it tells me the cmos checksum is wrong and my computer resets to defaults and sets my cpu to 500mhz, now Ive restarted it once and had to go back to 2100+, but whenever that happens, and I reboot, the computer doesnt boot, so I have to pull the cmos battery, and it goes back to 500mhz... wtf is going on... plus when it sets to 500mhz, I cant change the cpu speed at all or the computer wont boot up... anyone know wtf is going on. And does anyone have a COMPLETE, VERY detailed explaination of unlocking a xp2100+ palimino?

[DaGooch]

Originally posted by Kefka
ok, I have an xp2100+ (palimino (im assuming this because its green)) ive tried filling in the the L1 bridges including the pits and trying the pin mod, and connecting the 5th L3 bridge. I tried these and my cpu wouldnt post, now it tells me the cmos checksum is wrong and my computer resets to defaults and sets my cpu to 500mhz, now Ive restarted it once and had to go back to 2100+, but whenever that happens, and I reboot, the computer doesnt boot, so I have to pull the cmos battery, and it goes back to 500mhz... wtf is going on... plus when it sets to 500mhz, I cant change the cpu speed at all or the computer wont boot up... anyone know wtf is going on. And does anyone have a COMPLETE, VERY detailed explaination of unlocking a xp2100+ palimino?

On the XP2100+ do not do the 5th L3 bridge. All you need to do is the pin mod and the L1. :D

[The Coolest]

What happened to the Tbred unlocking when all u needed to do is paint the 5th L3 bridge? I think the same thing should apply to XP pally as well? Would be easier, and less chances to mess up?

*EDIT*: Why wouldn't it easier to just cross the 5th L3 bridge? Should give the same effect?

Kefka: The brightside is that u got it unlocked, otherwise u wouldn't have gotten it to post at 500MHz... But its strange, u must have resetted the default multipliers.

*EDIT2*: "This way works the same as connecting 5th bridge of L3 as demonstrated by Gao the previous week so apply either method which is easier for you."

[candjac]

[QUOTE]Originally posted by The Coolest
[B]What happened to the Tbred unlocking when all u needed to do is paint the 5th L3 bridge? I think the same thing should apply to XP pally as well?
*EDIT*: Why wouldn't it easier to just cross the 5th L3 bridge? Should give the same effect?

Answer..No the pally 2100 has a different set of bridges.

[Quote]Kefka: The brightside is that u got it unlocked, otherwise u wouldn't have gotten it to post at 500MHz... But its strange, u must have resetted the default multipliers.

Answer..Yes.

Dagooch has tried to tell you that while the Tbred 2200+ and the Palomino XP 2100+ both have 5 bit Multiplier code and share the "same problem" of Mobo/bios being unable to reset default Multipliers, their Multiplier bridge sets are "different", so the "physical workarounds also differ".

Palomino 2100 L1 mobo interfacing bridges are open, Tbred 220+'s are closed. So Palomino 2100" L1s must be closed for mobo to reset Multipliers.

Palomino 2100 sets 5 bit Multiplier code with 5 bridge "pairs"...(2) L3, (2) L4, (1) L10. Tbred 2200 sets 5 bit code with only 5 L3 individual bridges. So this explains why the workarounds "are also physically different".

Basically, modding the Palomino 2100's L10 bridge pair does the same thing as closing Tbred 2200's rightmost
L3 bridge. But to "understand" this'..........

Go to http://wwwbeachlink.com/candjac/index.htm link to Palomino and Tbred articles to see and compare the Multiplier bridges' circuits details. There is also a section in Tbred article called "Unlocking ...or...Workarounds" which discusses this issue.

BTW, the "pin mod" does the same thing as closing Tbred's rightmost L3 bridge...but as Dagooch wrote, don't do both.

Sorry to add this to thread but it seems that you have not been able to understand dagooch's perfectly correct comments...probably because you do not understand how the different Multiplier signaling circuits work. Hopefully the articles will cure that.
John C.

[The Coolest]

What about doing this mod to the mobo itself it could be easier to use a conductive ink pen or something and remove it if u gonna put in a slower than 2100+ CPU? But if u know you will not then its a good idea, any CPU u put in, has the mod automatically

[candjac]

Originally posted by The Coolest
What about doing this mod to the mobo itself it could be easier to use a conductive ink pen or something and remove it if u gonna put in a slower than 2100+ CPU? But if u know you will not then its a good idea, any CPU u put in, has the mod automatically

Coolest,
Of course, and then why not go one step further and mod the mobo so that it does not need to be "removed" for CPUs slower than the 2100. You do this by soldering fine wires to backside of mobo socket AJ27 and a nearby Vss = Gd socket like AH28 or AK28. Tin the leads first then simply hold in place and heat with tinned soldering iron and the leads should flow right into the blobs of solder at each of those socket ends. Then run the wires to a switch or 2 pin jumper on a very small pcb conveniently mounted thru the side or front of the case.

Jumper OFF = default, jumper ON = LO. Be classy and run a 3rd wire from nearby Vcc = Vcore socket, use a 3 pin jumper. No jumper = CPU Default, 1-2 = LO, 2-3 = HI. Now it works for ALL XP speed grades...right??

Be still classier and run 4 more wires from the other 4 bits, AL25, AN25, AL27, AN27, a little larger pcb with 5 sets of 3 pin jumpers or switches. Now you've converted a mobo like the ECS K7S5A with no mobo/bios support for Multiplier to a mobo with full support.

Use good practice and install 100 ohm current limiting resistors in each circuit...right??;-)
Boker Tov,
John C.

PS: We did this on a FIC 503+ and K6-3+450 running at 616. Have a 10 position dipswitch on pcb on front of case to control/set FSB/PCI Divisor, Memory Frequency, FSB Frequency, and the Multiplier.

[The Coolest]

Great idea!! And thanks for the help, although I don't intend on getting a higher than 2000+ chip yet, but still a really nice one!!
Maybe when the Barton will be out for a while and drop in price

[KnightElite]

candjac: That looks like a really cool mod. If you connect the last 4 pins that you mentionned, would that enable unlocking without connecting the L1 bridges? I doubt it, since it looks like it's just multiplier control, but I'm just checking.

[candjac]

Originally posted by KnightElite
candjac: That looks like a really cool mod. If you connect the last 4 pins that you mentionned, would that enable unlocking without connecting the L1 bridges? I doubt it, since it looks like it's just multiplier control, but I'm just checking.

First, if you do this wires/switches/jumpers mod you want to do all bits, not just 4, in case you might need to reset the 8X Bit Value.

Then, you're right about the L1 bridges, they must be closed, but not because it's "just" Multiplier control, but because the sockets/pins do not "connect to the Multiplier "Signal Busses" unless the L1s are closed. We wrote about that several posts ago....Quote....

Palomino 2100 L1 mobo interfacing bridges are open, Tbred 220+'s are closed. So Palomino 2100" L1s must be closed for mobo to reset Multipliers.... End Quote.

And "mobo" is on same side of L1s as sockets/pins.

To "understand" all the circuits and details, go to
http://www.beachlink.com/candjac/index.htm link to Palomino and Tbred articles, lot's of good stuff there for anyone wanting to do hard mods.
John C.

[KnightElite]

Thanks for the linkage. I figured that the 2100+ would still have to be unlocked with the L1s, just making sure. That's a very neat mod in any case.

EDIT: your link doesn't work. You forgot the . between the www and the domain name.

[Chong345]

Very Nice OPP. I wish I had known this before I sold my 2100 2 months ago cause I didn't think it could be unlocked.

[Kefka]

ok, im still a little clear on this. To overclock my 2100+ palimino, I close all the L1 bridges, and do the pin mod correct?

and when closing the bridges should the conductive material be in the pits too? or should I fill those with a non conductive material?

[OPPAINTER]

To fill the pits you use NON conductive material like super glue, and to connect the bridges you use Conductive Material.
And yes, close the L1 bridges and do the pin mod to unlock the the 2100.

OPP

[Kefka]

might i inquire as to what happens when u fill the pits with conduction material?

[majormav]

whooooooooooooo this 2100 is getting the treatment asap a new toy to play with might send the p4 bench rig to the for sale column in local paper

[majormav]

a big thanks to all done the mod and chip is unlocked .... thanks

chip is agoia week 16

[DaGooch]

Just an update about the pin modification with L1 modfication on a Palamino 2100+. The modification worked fine using an AT7 and KX7 but would refuse to boot on an AK35GTR with the latest bios. Due to differences in implentation of bioses and hardware pin signal routing on the motherboard, the modification will work on some motherboards but not all. :(

[Bravo]

A question, has anybody tried to identify the pins that use the l1 gates?

I've had a think about it, and the advantage would be the board would unlock the processor with no problems, and EVERY processor you plugged in would not require an unlock job :D

[candjac]

Originally posted by Sinnah
A question, has anybody tried to identify the pins that use the l1 gates?

I've had a think about it, and the advantage would be the board would unlock the processor with no problems, and EVERY processor you plugged in would not require an unlock job :D

Sinnah, Yes the pins have been identified, and they are documented at
http://www.beachlink.com/candjac/index.htm link to 1st Palomino article. They are identified by pin # like AJ27, also in a picture of pins, and also in diagram/s associated with particular L1 bridges, and Bit Value signal busses.

Then in the Tbred article there is a circuit diagram of a simple switched or jumpered small Radio Shack printed circuit board/pcb that a user could construct and then connect the wires to the 5 socketss connected to the L1 bridges marked on the same diagram...also 2 wires to Vcore and ground. That diagram has "all the necessary info in one place".

Edit:- If user just wants to be able to handle the 5th Bit L3 "workaround", then just one wire frm AJ27 plus Vcore and Ground wires are needed for a "switched/jumpered" mod...covered in Tbred article. Or, user could just solder one wire from AJ27 to nearby Ground pin = AK28 or AH28 for a "permanent unswitched" 5th L3 mod to the mobo.

However the L1 bridges must be closed for those circuits to be able to over-ride the default Multiplier settings..no problem on Tbred 2200, but L1s Xp 2100s and lower must be closed by user.
John C.

[DaGooch]

Found out why the pin mod did not work on the Shuttle AK35GTR. Recently a phone call to OP and his latest adventures in cooling experiments, the boot up problem on the AK35GTR came up. He asked me to check the bios on the AK35GTR and see if there was a 5X multiplier with the latest bios release and when I checked, there was none. The lowest multiplier available in the most recent bios was 5.5X.

[R3N3G@D3]

Heloooo :toast:

If i was to change the L10 Bridges over (closed/opened - opened/closed) this would then make it a 665 mhz processor (5x133). I was just wondering would the processor boot at that speed (Running on an Epox 8K3A+ 2508 bios).
Or would I have to change the L3 bridges to make it the same as a 1700+ XP (1463 Mhz). Or would I have to use another processor to set the FSB or Multi???
Also how exactly does the pin mod work ???
Could some one please post some illustrating pictures that make it a little more clear to understand ???

ThanX :toast:

[candjac]

Originally posted by R3N3G@D3
If i was to change the L10 Bridges over (closed/opened - opened/closed) this would then make it a 665 mhz processor (5x133). I was just wondering would the processor boot at that speed (Running on an Epox 8K3A+ 2508 bios).
Or would I have to change the L3 bridges to make it the same as a 1700+ XP (1463 Mhz). Or would I have to use another processor to set the FSB or Multi???
Also how exactly does the pin mod work ???
Could some one please post some illustrating pictures that make it a little more clear to understand ?


Most if not all mobos do post/boot at 5X.

So should be no need to manipulate other multiplier bridges...just close the L1s of course.

All variations of the pin mod simply ground the 8X Bit Value signal bus, which "permanently" resets it from default HI to LO...which is exactly what reversing the L10 bridges does. We'd do the single wire from AJ27 socket backside to case ground...in post above...easy to do and undo.

http://www.beachlink.com/candjac/index.htm various articles on AMD CPUs' Multipliers, codes etc, if interested...also circuit diagrams, you could use to see the grounding effect.
John C.

[salocin]

:toast:

Im very new to unlocking And overclocking. But i think Ive unlocked my 2100 + THANKS, TO , YOU

My system specs

AMD 2100+
Epox 8k5a2+
512 mb Samsung pc2700
80 gig Maxtor

Just 1 question where did my 13* multiplier go, it now boots at 5 my 14* also at 5 and my 15 at 5.5

[candjac]

Salocin,
If you read the articles and threads you will realize that when you ground the 8X Bit Value by reversing the L10 bridges or the AJ27 pin mod, you lose ability to control any Multipliers above 12.5X.

What you're getting seems to be some erratic settings that your bios cobbles up because it can't reset the 8X Bit Value "hard ground" to HI again.

Overclocking the XP 2100 should be done with Multipliers at 12.5 and lower, combined with higher FSB frequency.
John C.

[salocin]

Thanks for the reply

Ok so if I could run at a 13 multiplier before at 145 mhz
and i can now get 11 multi at 175mhz

Thats an improvement althuogh slight ,Its a start

Any other suggestions on how to get more ?


Im a bit sorry I didnt get the 8k3a+ board there seems to be a lot more info on it .

I have read and tried to under stand the stuff I printed from tbredoc and it doesn't seem to apply to the 2100

Just one more thing if I go to ocinside and select the setting I would like run ,do i just copy that painting

thanks again

Exterme novice.com

[candjac]

Salocin wrote...
>Ok so if I could run at a 13 multiplier before at 145 mhz
>and i can now get 11 multi at 175mhz

If your memory is up to 175Mhz.

>Any other suggestions on how to get more ?

We specialize in Multiplier code, we'll let the more experienced overclockers answer this.

>I have read and tried to under stand the stuff I >printed from tbredoc and it doesn't seem to apply to >the 2100

Well the Multiplier bridges are different, but the Multiplier Code is exactly the same.

>Just one more thing if I go to ocinside and select the >setting I would like run ,do i just copy that painting

Sounds like your mobo has no Multiplier support for below 13X in addition to not being able to handle 13X and up???

If so, Yes copy Jens' layout, but be careful about insulating the pits, not cross-connecting, and don't cut too deep when opening. Best tool is finest pointed/narrowest angled diamond coated burr from your dentist. Epoxy into tube for handling like a pencil with finger strokes slowly making number "ones" across the bridge...with heel of hand fixed/steady. Use 5X eye loupe to inspect cutting progress.
John C.

[OC Detective]

I am a firm believer in that a moments stupidity is better than a lifetime of ignorance so I will ask this question!:p
I have an XP2000+ and where I live it is difficult to obtain conductive pens etc - so is there a way to wire mod the pins on the cpu to replicate closing the L1 bridges? I would assume that the pin mod workaround for the last bridge on the L3 to obtain multipliers lower than 12.5 would also have to be incorporated.

[N8]

OC Detective,

The default multiplier on the 2000+ is 12.5...so you only need to connect the L1's on it. You only connect the last L3 on the 2100+ because its mult is higher than 12.5.

Regarding whether there is a pin mod for unlocking yours, sorry to say, but I doubt it. Connecting the L1's is what you need to do to aquire all mults up to 12.5x. This has been done by soldering a small wire between the traces on the chip, but I'm sure it'd take a very well experienced solderer to perform such an act. Conductive paint will surely be your best bet, unless its impossible to find in your area.

Good Luck! :)

[OC Detective]

Sigh, thats what I feared - I guess I will just have to try and import some.

[Ajax]

Nice info guys but can you answer this question?

How can you unlock the XP2100+ but keep the highbit x8 enable?

The reason is that I use a 100FSB (KT133) and I can only play with the multiplier to increase the speed of my 2100. Otherwise I'm stuck at 1300Mhz (13 x 100). I need to add the x8 to my multiplier and get higher value i.e. (Multiplier at 7 = (7+8) = 15, then 15 x 100FSB = 1500Mhz etc...)

Thanks guys. I really appreciate your help ! :banana:

Ajax

[candjac]

Originally posted by Ajax
Nice info guys but can you answer this question?

How can you unlock the XP2100+ but keep the highbit x8 enable?

The reason is that I use a 100FSB (KT133) and I can only play with the multiplier to increase the speed of my 2100. Otherwise I'm stuck at 1300Mhz (13 x 100). I need to add the x8 to my multiplier and get higher value i.e. (Multiplier at 7 = (7+8) = 15, then 15 x 100FSB = 1500Mhz etc...) Ajax

Ajax,
Your 8X Bit Value is already set HI/Enabled. But there is a chance to try for higher Multipliers, has worked on some mobo/s.

1: Close all the L1s except the rightmost, (saves some work, and prevents bios from changing the rightmost 8X Multiplier signal circuit, but others need to be closed for mobo to be able to change other 4 signal circuits as needed). Be sure to insulate the pits else all signal circuits go to ground/LO when you connect the L1s and mobo can't change those grounded LOs.

2: Set 8X less than what you want in the bios Multiplier setting option. Example, you want 15X, set bios to 7X. Hopefully the bios will rest the default multiplier with signals to the 1st 4 bits, (currently set to 5X), to 7X. Normally, a new mobo would also "disable" the 8X bit as well, set it LO, so the system would boot at 7X. But.....
A: Your older mobo very possibly is not designed to manipulate the 5th 8X bit. If so, it won't get reset LO, stays HI and the system boots at 15X...hopefully. Or...

B: Because you did not close the right most 8X L1, even if your mobo should send an over-riding LO to the 8X signal circuit, it won't get there to change the existing default HI...which you need as in "A:".

http://www.beachlink.com/candjac/index.htm link to Multiplier Code article to "understand" why this might work....CPU doesn't care "how" its 5 signal circuits are set/reset with HIs and LOs. This procedure tries to get the mobo to "reset" the 4 lowest Bit Values and keep the 5th 8X Bit Value at its default HI.
Also read Palomino article, maybe also Circuits article to see how this might work. Should work "in theory", but sometimes particular mobo/bios/?Northbridge? might have system setup code that causes problem like no boot. But has worked, worth a try. Let us know if it works. 14.5X and 15.5X are "Reserved"...might not work???
John C.

[deks]

I followed all your instructions to a T on my AGOIA XP2100+. Did the pin mod and painted the l1's. Yes i filled the pits with heatsync compound. I did the L1's about 3 times before I gave up. First time the PC booted up. 1st. attempt. It said I had a 933 or something. So I went to the bios to bump up the mulitplyer. Set it to like 10. Got in to windows looked at WCPU and the multiplier was still 13, but my FSB was 198. 2nd attempt. Cleaned l1's filled the pits and now It booted as a 1500. Try to set the ratio. And it would lockup. Booted into windows and I was running 198fsb and 13.X 3rd attempt, I had got 1700+, same thing couldnt adjust the multiplyiers. (Well the bios lets me but it dont take.) I couldnt raise or lower the FSB or I wouldnt get post. SO I had to leave the bios at what ever it was detecting at the time. Any Idea's? I use conductive paint. Very steady hand and good eye sight. I know for sure the L1's had to be unlocked. But why different results every time I retried painting the L1's? I have an A7N8X, and all this time i had the chip modded, it would not let me run at 2100+ speed no matter what. I really want to unlock this. Any Idea's? I noticed that link http://www.beachlink.com/candjac/index.htm should the FSB HI LO where different pins than that chinnease guys wire trick. Does this matter? I'm really desperate. I want to see how far i can raise this FSB on this puppy.

[Ajax]

Thanks John,

Can I assume by reading your post that your proposal of unlocking this 2100+ for the KT133 doesn't require any bridges cutting?

If I understand properly I only need to:

1. Close all the L1s except the rightmost

2. Set the jumpers (on the mobo or in the Bios) at a lower multiplier since the x8 bit is still enable. Therefore If I select 7x I should get a frequency of (7+8) x 100fsb = 1500Mhz

Is this right?

Thanks John, really appreciated

Ajax ;)

[candjac]

Deks,
Not sure if this is meant for us/ our previous post, but following applies when testing "Multiplier changes". You should try to do so at 100 MHz FSB to avoid any possibility of failures from too high a cpu clocking. Once you've "proven" you can get the system to change Multipliers at will, that's the time to "optimize". That said, comments....

Heatsink compound not a good choice for insulating material... never really hardens so conductive ink might weep around it and make connection to sub-sutface ground plane...or even worse if Arctic Silver is used, yes not supposed to be electrically conductive, but even a bit might be NG, and does not harden as above. Suggest a good cleanup and redo L1s with a more "solid" insulating material, as the "changing results" point to a possible variability resulting from the L1s closing mod using hs compound.

On the other hand, the L10s/AJ27 to Gd pins mod changes the 13X default Multiplier to 8X less = 5X. So somewhere along the line you should have seen 5X. Then you go to the bios and have control from 5X thru 12.5X...but not higher, cause doubt that even your new mobo can reset the L10/pins mod grounded/LO 8X Bit Value back to HI again.

In brief, if you want 13X, restore the chip as found. If you want 5X thru 12.5X close the L1s carefully as above and do the AJ27 to GD pins mod. Should boot at 5X then change to suit in bios. Always "test" first at 100 Mhz if you can.
John C

[candjac]

Originally posted by Ajax
Can I assume by reading your post that your proposal of unlocking this 2100+ for the KT133 doesn't require any bridges cutting?

If I understand properly I only need to:

1. Close all the L1s except the rightmost

2. Set the jumpers (on the mobo or in the Bios) at a lower multiplier since the x8 bit is still enable. Therefore If I select 7x I should get a frequency of (7+8) x 100fsb = 1500Mhz Is this right?

You read it all right Ajax, let's hope your mobo/system "co-operates".

You see, changing the Multipliers also involves code in the Northbridge, tables for system setup/"timing" during the boot process for example. And the Northbridge gets Multiplier info from "another" set of pins, not the ones connected to the bios for the mobo/bios when changing. So there's always the possibility of a "mismatch" (esp when "modding") which might cause the system to not boot. We only know this in general from reading about it in datasheets but exact logic/details are not available, and might not understand them even if available. Might be similar situation in bios?? But this has worked on some mobo/s in past, Good Luck.
John C.

[FrEaKZoIdE]

Errr..
How about the Duron 1300? Can it be unlckable by closing the L1 and switching the L10 around? Or Ca I close the 5th L3 and the L1's and the problem is solved?

Thks...

[deks]

I dont want 13X and thats all I had no matter what I set it to. Is CIrcut works contact pen good enough? I will try filling the gaps with a crayon or something. I thought doing the wire trick it defaults the multipler to 5X? I did test at 100mhz but I had no control over the multiplyers. So yes I beleave it must have been grounding.

[candjac]

Originally posted by deks
I dont want 13X and thats all I had no matter what I set it to. Is CIrcut works contact pen good enough? I will try filling the gaps with a crayon or something. I thought doing the wire trick it defaults the multipler to 5X? I did test at 100mhz but I had no control over the multiplyers. So yes I beleave it must have been grounding.

Circuit Works conductive trace repair pen should be fine.
Be sure any possible "grounds in the pits" have been cleared after cleaning, ie, no contact from "anything conductive" in the pit to either of the 2 dots of each open bridge...use an eye loupe to verify as best you can.
John C.

[deks]

5th attempet to unlock this sucker. Are you guys positive it works on all Pally 2100+ Wire mod in place. L1s Bridged. Pits filled with a crayon. Multiplier still locked on 13. Do you need to pile on the Condutive ink to the pins? Cause if the pin trick worked shouldnt the cpu (even if the L1's wheren't bridged) set the CPU to 5X? Maybe the pin trick isnt working on my 2100+ AGOIA? Im getting pissed. About ready to sell this and fork out a little (well kind of a lot) for a 2200 or 2400 that come unlocked. Im to the point of sending this to anyone that can get it unlocked.

Frustrated,
Deks

System
2100+@ 138FSB (Not unlocked But trying)
A7N8X
512 OCZ Tech
G4 4400@305/600
Volcano 9+
§§§§loads of Fans


:banana:

[bjm362]

Ok,I have an xp2100 palomino.
If I just did the pin mod and didn't unlock the L1 would it post at 11x?Or is it a must to unlock L1 before any changes.
I Would prefer an 11x multi to the 13x it uses.

Edit: Oops this was already answered on page 2,sorry !

[bjm362]

I have read several references in this thread about a 5x multi.My current bios only shows down to an 6x multi.My board is a
MSI kt3 ultra aru.Is the current bios going to cause a problem?
Do I need to go to msi's website and trace back to and find an earlier bios to flash back to?
I want to be at least pretty confident before I try and unlock.

[CodeThief]

Just tried this on a Gigabyte GA7VRXP and it doesn't work :( Made DOUBLY sure it was all correct.

Only thing I can think is ...

When I connected the pins with conductive ink, I connected the small circles at the bottom. Did I need to connect the actuall pins themselves rather than the tiny circles at the bottom of the pins???

Dave

[OPPAINTER]

You just connect the 2 dots that run vertically up and down each bridge. One bridge at a time:D

OPP

[CodeThief]

LOL uh yeah I did that :D

What I meant was ...

under the CPU where you connect the pins together, each pin is sitting on a little circle. Is it ok to connect these circles, or when you did it with ink did you draw down the pin then across to the other pin and up that?

Thief

[Ajax]

You read it all right Ajax, let's hope your mobo/system "co-operates". You see, changing the Multipliers also involves code in the Northbridge, tables for system setup/"timing" during the boot process for example. And the Northbridge gets Multiplier info from "another" set of pins, not the ones connected to the bios for the mobo/bios when changing. So there's always the possibility of a "mismatch" (esp when "modding") which might cause the system to not boot. We only know this in general from reading about it in datasheets but exact logic/details are not available, and might not understand them even if available. Might be similar situation in bios?? But this has worked on some mobo/s in past, Good Luck.
John C.

GREAT NEW GUYS !!! AND BIG THANK TO CANDJAC

I was able to unlock my XP2100 for my old A7V rev.1.02 whithout cutting any bridges. I only followed Candjac suggestions in this post.

I'm now runing at 1.8Ghz. Very very nice...

It's so great to get it work !

Yeaaaah... Thanks again Candjac

Ajax :toast:

[candjac]

Originally posted by Ajax
I was able to unlock my XP2100 for my old A7V rev.1.02 whithout cutting any bridges. I only followed Candjac suggestions in this post.
I'm now runing at 1.8Ghz. Very very nice...
Ajax :toast:

Glad to hear it worked and other parts of mobo did not interfere. Hope you also went to
http://www.beachlink.com/candjac/index.htm and read some of the Multiplier oriented articles there so you'd learn to "understand" the rather simple Multiplier Code that AMD uses. It's not rocket science, and all of the recent Multiplier setting problems are the result of mobos not being able to keep up/cope with the 5th 8X Bit Value signal bus being set HI since the Palomino 2100 and Tbred 2200. That's where knowledge of the Multiplier Code and its circuit/s helps...easy to design "workarounds/schemes" to compensate for those mobos' incompatibilities.
John C.

[CuriousGeorge]

HI gang new to this forum iv had a tbirb 1400 that came unlocked from AMD and had it OC'd till i just got my 2100+ and was looking to OC it as well, this post seemed the best of all that iv looked through to unlocking my chip but it seems everyones 2100 is green mine is brown i bought it retail in a box with the pos heatsink they give you (im using a volcano 9 thou) is there a diffrence??? :confused:

And to get the whole unlocking thing straight close the L1 bridges and i have to do the wire trick?? ( or just use conductive adhesive) on the 2 pins on the chip???:confused:


thanks in advance

[IamAnoobieCheez]

uh huh.

if u only perform a L10 swap, you should get 10.5x on the PaloXP2100+.

even a better method, called U-pin method(Nope.. im not talking about the pins underneath the CPU packaging) on the socket, it should give you the same effect/result as the swapping L10.

In other words, if you don't mind 10.5x, no connecting bridegs are required at all. eheh...

of course... if you want to change multipliers upto 12.5x range, closing L1s are required.

[Asniper]

Nice find, but to scared todo it hehe, and don't have a mobo that will let me oc. So ill pass on this for abit :)

[candjac]

Originally posted by IamAnoobieCheez
uh huh.
if u only perform a L10 swap, you should get 10.5x on the PaloXP2100+.

even a better method, called U-pin method(Nope.. im not talking about the pins underneath the CPU packaging) on the socket, it should give you the same effect/result as the swapping L10.

In other words, if you don't mind 10.5x, no connecting bridegs are required at all. eheh...

of course... if you want to change multipliers upto 12.5x range, closing L1s are required.

Careful with your advice...if you swap the L10s the system will post at 5X..not 10.5X, and if the L1s are not closed no way to change that 5X. Check AMD's Multiplier Code @
http://www.beachlink.com/candjac/index.htm link to Multiplier Code article and/or Palomino article.
John C.

[CuriousGeorge]

http://www.beachlink.com/candjac/index.htm man i need therapy after going thou all that lol,

Im not that advanced but i understood sum what the reply Cheez
and having a 10.5 multiplier is ok just means ill have to mount my watercooling unit or A/C unit on it and do the xtreme:D .
But would rather start off low and slowly move to that stage so.... L1 bridges it is and i seen in another article that cutting the 3rd bridge on the L11 and joining the 2nd bridge along with the L1's is a good start any thoughts on that ???? (just as a start for a newbie like me ;P )

[vmikac]

hi

i would like to know how can i get multipliers above 12.5 on an xp1700+ tbred based....

it is unlocked by default, but on my motherboard(soltek 75kav) when i try to put 14.0x multiplier it comes otu as an 5x :(
and 14x is maximum of the mother board :(

i am currently running it at 2000+, 12.5*133, because when i increase FSB i get problems and my computer does not restart ....

what contacts on what bridges should i connect? :)

as i understand it, i should cut the first L10 contact, and connect the second one to get access to multipliers above 12.5?

will 5.5 then be like 14.5x?
is there any other way to do this, i wouldn't like to cut the contact unless i really need to, and it does not seem very easy to do.

is there an easier way of connecting 2 contacts then conductive ink? something that won't stay visible on my CPU when i try to sell it?

thank you very much in advance!

Vladimir Mikac

[SpiderMAN]

Originally posted by OPPAINTER
Works great, all multipliers from 5-12.5

OPP And what about 13-XX multipliers

[SpiderMAN]

How to unlock bigger multipliers?

[Larryc94]

What did I do wrong

I have a XP2100 palomino that I connected all the L1's and switched the L10's. Now I have 5x as default or I can get 11x and 11.5x, this is on a Chaintech 7njs. I select other multi's but end up with 5x , 11x or 11.5x.

Thanks

Larry

[candjac]

Originally posted by Larryc94
What did I do wrong
I have a XP2100 palomino that I connected all the L1's and switched the L10's. Now I have 5x as default or I can get 11x and 11.5x, this is on a Chaintech 7njs. I select other multi's but end up with 5x , 11x or 11.5x.
Larry

There are 5 signal circuits with Bit Values = .5X, 1X, 2X, 4X, 8X. Palomino 2100 has the 2X and 8X Bit Value signal circuits HI for Multiplier = 13X.
When the L10s are switched the 8X BV is reset LO, so only the 2X BV is HI for Multiplier = 5X, so getting 5X says your L10 mod is OK. But you could have had problems with closing the L1s, like still open or grounded/set LO.

11X has all 5 BVs/signal circuits LO, so we know here that at least the 2X L1 closing mod was OK since signal "was" HI but "is now" LO.

11.5X has "only" the .5X BV/signal circuit HI, so we know here that the .5X L1 closing mod was OK since signal "was" LO but "is now" HI. Also confirms again that the 2X L1 is OK/HI default but now LO.

So that leaves the 1X and 4X L1 closing mods "unproven". We'll "assume" you tried 12X and 12.5X, but got 11X and 11.5X, which would mean that the 1X BV/signal circuit L1 closing mod, default LO, was probably grounded OR not completely closed...either of which would leave the signal circuit with a "permanent LO", because the mobo/bios could not reset it HI as it needs to be for 12X and 12.5X...1X L1 needs to be redone.

You can check the default LO 4X L1 by trying 10X, if you get 9X then only the 1X L1 closing mod needs to be redone. If you get 5X then the 4X L1 closing mod is also still open or gtounded...needs to be redone...but no need to fix the .5X, 2X and 8X L1s.

L1s L to R = .5X, 1X, 2X, 4X, 8X.

http://www.beachlink.com/candjac/index.htm link to Multiplier Code, Circuits, and Palomino articles to learn AMD's Multiplier Code so you can verify the analysis above and do your own mod/s degugging next time.
John C.

[Larryc94]

Thanks John C for the reply,

When I try 10x I get 5x, so if I understand I have a problem with the 4x. Do I also have a problem with the 1x?

Thanks again for the speedy reply

Larry

[Larryc94]

John C

Your right on the $, 12x results in 11x so to answer my ? about the 1x mod is ng. I give it one more shot at redoing those locks

Thanks again

Larry

[Larryc94]

Well now I'm stuck at 9.5x or 9x and 5x. I have redone the 1x twice, but still same results as above. I guess I fixed the 4x because it's different than when I started.

Thanks

Larry

[candjac]

Originally posted by Larryc94
Well now I'm stuck at 9.5x or 9x and 5x. I have redone the 1x twice, but still same results as above. I guess I fixed the 4x because it's different than when I started.
Larry

Always post a table or listing of "I set vs I get", "same results" and "it's different" are too uncertain.

Also, note that problem/s were defined as offending/suspect L1s "either" not closed "or" still open. So rework/search for fault is "dual"...if not closed then be sure of no film/debris on upper and lower dots of bridge. If grounded, must be sure that conductive material which may have seeped into the pit is completely removed, or at least is making "no contact" with upper and lower dots of bridge. Must check for both possibilities.

BTW, are you reading articles so you can begin to debug on your own??
John C.