View Full Version : Where to get a metal version of this barb?
I am going to have a simple drain line in my loop, and I want to use a barb like this to do it:
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/1blnybaeqtee1.html
But I don't want a plastic one. Does anybody know where I can find this same kind of barb, except metal? Also, what would be my best option for sealing off the piece of tubing that will serve as a drain line? Can I buy some kind of special "cork" barb what would fit on the end of the tubing, and seal it off? If so where could I get this?
You might try one of these (http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g30/c101/s460/list/p1/Liquid_Cooling-Fittings_Accessories-Drain_Fill_Ports-Page1.html).
I am confused as to what a fillport is. Your link makes it look like an easy way to fill the loop. I am looking for an easy way to drain it. Also it apparently is made with aluminum. I do not want aluminum in my loop.
BenArcher
12-19-2007, 03:17 PM
It is bassically a plug you put in the tube comming from the centre of your T line that is closed normally so acts like a cap. But you can open it so water can be let out or put into the loop.
Im not sure about the aluminium bit it is anondized and won;t be in contact with high flow water or anything that can really scratch tge surface so it should be ok i think.
Ok I see... this works as the cap.
But now I still need to find a metal 1/2" T barb, and a fillport with no aluminum.
Anybody know where I can get these?
Xilikon
12-19-2007, 03:24 PM
Go to a plumbing store and get a PEX tee which is made from brass. Just click on my worklog and you will see a picture of that nice tee.
Nate P.
12-19-2007, 03:24 PM
Contact Martinm210 (http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/member.php?u=53442), be makes KICKASS copper T's.
ls206
12-19-2007, 03:24 PM
hmm..I'm not sure about the aluminum problem. But a fill port would probably be the best plan of action, it allows you to "open" the loop without releasing any tubing. i.e. just unscrew the lid.
you can buy plugs but they'd be a pain if you're using 7/16" tubing
with regards to the T-line, metal is possible
http://www.watercoolingshop.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=49_59&products_id=193
but I take it you want it from the US?
Yeah I'm in the US, so that would be best. That one on watercoolingshop.com is good but overseas. How much would martin charge for a copper T? I'm not looking to spend like a ton of money on it, I just want it to be metal, either copper or brass.
Are there any fillports that do not have any aluminum in them?
Nate P.
12-19-2007, 03:41 PM
PM Martin and find out how much he would change. He's pretty good about prices though.
Jedda
12-19-2007, 04:56 PM
Get the delrin version of the DD Fill port rather than the anodised version. Petra's usually stock it. It comes with a G1/4 barb included. Make sure you get the 1/2" barb too.
Justintoxicated
12-19-2007, 05:06 PM
yea get the derlin version those were not out when I purchased mine. Then again I don't care cause I'm using it for a fillport not drain port so it's not in contact with the coolant anyways...Only crappy thing on mine is that its the old 9/16th version and the plug is not nickle plated so it rusted up from the water vapor I guess. DD sent me a ne wplug but its not nickle plated either so we will see how long it lasts.... The G1/4 versions are all nickle plated plugs.
As for the copper T I prefer the plastic ones. They are light weight and seal really well.
Jedda
12-19-2007, 05:13 PM
Yes the metal tees are fairly heavy, as is a DD delrin T=block and 3 barbs too.
I can't find a delrin DD fillport anywhere, does anyone have a link?
CyberDruid
12-19-2007, 05:32 PM
http://www.jab-tech.com/Dangerden-Fillport-Delrin-pr-3489.html
Nate's right about Martin's Tees. They are excellent pieces of work and barely restrict flow.
I've PM'd martin :)
Now about that derlin fillport. I assume it comes with a barb, as you are required to select the type of barb.
Now I am confused. The types of barbs you can select are "perfect seal" or "high flow". What are the differences and what kind should I choose? I want all metal, other than the derlin.
This may be a stupid questions, but why are you trying to avoid aluminum?
Is it bad for the coolant?
If you have aluminum in a loop that also has other metals, such as copper or copper alloys (brass), or chrome plating, etc... then the aluminum will corrode. And I am not using any anti corrosion additives, and to start I will also avoid any biocide, just straight distilled.
sanhacker
12-19-2007, 06:06 PM
It's because Aluminum + Copper = Galvanic Corrosion.
Most high quality water blocks and radiators are made of copper so the idea is to avoid aluminum.
Jedda
12-19-2007, 06:10 PM
I can't find a delrin DD fillport anywhere, does anyone have a link?
Here you go (http://www.petrastechshop.com/dadendefi.html) they have a brass version too, but this is what I use.
Here you go (http://www.petrastechshop.com/dadendefi.html) they have a brass version too, but this is what I use.
I didn't know there was a brass one, that's what I'll get! :cool:
If you have aluminum in a loop that also has other metals, such as copper or copper alloys (brass), or chrome plating, etc... then the aluminum will corrode. And I am not using any anti corrosion additives, and to start I will also avoid any biocide, just straight distilled.
Ok thanks for the info! :up:
I'm going to be doing a wc build soon, now I know I can't have aluminum.
Beware, many cheap parts are made with aluminum. Stick to copper and brass. Chrome plating is fine as well.
Also make sure you get plasticizer free tubing (like tygon 2075 or 2275). Just some good tips :)
Xilikon
12-20-2007, 05:15 AM
And cheap parts : Koolance and Thermaltake ;)
ls206
12-20-2007, 06:26 AM
could I jump in with a Q about mixed metals,
I'm wondering if I can use pure distilled water in my loop, I have
PA rad
D-tek fuzion
and
swiftech mcw60 OR fuzion GPU.
am I safe?
Xilikon
12-20-2007, 06:30 AM
Yes, you are safe :)
Jedda
12-20-2007, 06:35 AM
could I jump in with a Q about mixed metals,
I'm wondering if I can use pure distilled water in my loop, I have
PA rad
D-tek fuzion
and
swiftech mcw60 OR fuzion GPU.
am I safe?
Safe from corrosion but not from pond life, unless your loop is very clean to start with. Many guys use an algacide like Petra's 'Nuke'. Only a few drops needed.
Xilikon
12-20-2007, 06:37 AM
Yeah, just add a algacide as Jedda outlined and it's ok.
ls206
12-20-2007, 07:17 AM
cheers guys :)
How long would it take for algae to form? given the tubes see little sunlight.
I'll get some algaecide incase.
Xilikon
12-20-2007, 07:18 AM
Depend where you life... some areas is more prone to algae growth than others.
nomad3700
12-20-2007, 07:45 AM
One of my rads has anodized aluminum barbs and i dont know what to do here.. cause they arent the regular 1/2" barbs. This rad is going between the CPU and GPU in the loop
any suggestions or should i not even use it
http://www.xoxide.com/80mmradiator.html
Xilikon
12-20-2007, 08:07 AM
Ditch it ? This is almost useless IMHO and doesn't dissipate a lot at all. The GPU can handle 1-2 degrees higher without issues since the stock temps is usually 20-30 degrees more than with watercooling.
ls206
12-20-2007, 12:18 PM
hmm...that's a point. I didn't really think about barbs or are they all good?
Jedda
12-20-2007, 07:46 PM
I don't think theres any aluminium barbs about except built in to crap gear.
You're OK.
Algae growth can be stimulated by cathode tubes not just sun light.
Grafton
12-20-2007, 07:59 PM
just get some pt nuke from petras, also still looking for a "t" get a delrin one from petras
I don't think theres any aluminium barbs about except built in to crap gear.
You're OK.
Algae growth can be stimulated by cathode tubes not just sun light.
My computer has no lights in it, and the room it is in always has the shade shut, and the computer is in a "computer cave" in the desk.
Do you think it would be safe for me not to use a biocide and just pure distilled water?
dude_500
12-21-2007, 12:06 AM
I've got a nice one that I made. Heres a pict:
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=69190&stc=1&d=1198224213
I just got a T with 3 screw spots and then got 3 copper barbs at home depot and put them in with teflon tape. I put it in a vice for each barb and spun the top with a screw driver in the barb to get it super tight to make sure it wouldn't leak.
Jedda
12-21-2007, 12:14 AM
My computer has no lights in it, and the room it is in always has the shade shut, and the computer is in a "computer cave" in the desk.
Do you think it would be safe for me not to use a biocide and just pure distilled water?
Probably it'd be OK but I'm not going to take the responsibility for saying to do it.
There shouldn't be any life in the pitch dark of the mid-atlantic trench around volcanic ventrioles as its so noxious, lacking oxygen but there is.
Only two absolutes, entropy prevails and life finds a way. I apply those truths to my LC maintenance.