EK 8800 FCB - Why so thick? [Archive]

virtualrain

12-18-2007, 09:34 AM

My appologies if this has been discussed before but it seems unnecessary to me that the EK full cover blocks for the 8800 (and possibly other cards) are thick enough that the card plus block consumes two slots.

It would seem like trimming some width off the plexi/delrin cover and counter sinking the screws that bolt the cover to the block would be a simple way to trim some girth without affecting performance in any way.

Although most graphics cards come with a double slot back plates, you could mod that or the card you wanted to put adjacent to it (such as a PhysX card with no external connectors) to make use of the othewise wasted slot. 8800GT's come with a single slot backplate out of the box.

Am I alone in wishing for this?

Waterlogged

12-18-2007, 09:58 AM

While I can't afford the high end cards, I do understand where you are coming from virtualrain. I designed a FC cooler for a Gigabyte 7600GT a while back but never followed through on production of it (simply hoping I don't have to is why I stopped). Although it was a little tricky, I was able to make my cooler 1/2" thick (and still appear to have unhampered flow, even if just in theory) and save all the PCI slots, which was really needed as this was for a mATX board going in a HTPC.

btw, 1/2" thick is how thick the stock passive cooler is. ;) It is possible, it just takes more math and thought.

virtualrain

12-18-2007, 11:51 AM

What's odd about the EK bock is that the cover is rediculously thick but doesn't improve flow at all because there are no channels in it.

Even if it's desired to be thick where the fittings connect at the top, it could be made a lot thinner on the main face which has to go between slots and thus you could easily use adjacent slots.

I find it a bizarre oversight.

Garrett

12-18-2007, 12:00 PM

Waterlogged

12-18-2007, 12:13 PM

If anyone is interested, here (http://www.dangerden.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=9086&sid=3fd231bab0b3c7e49dcf63a6be0b3ac3) is the GPU block topic I had over a@ DD forums. The final design was never drawn up but I could do it today if I were to decide to go ahead with it.

virtualrain

12-19-2007, 01:18 AM

I don't agree... it's just fine as it is... of course it could be made much thinner but the barbs would not screw in as well I think... just not enough space for the thread to penetrate... and flow might be much less if the block and cover were thinner...

First of all, as I said in the post above, the area where the barbs are could be left as thick as it is currently and they could just make the width of the rest of the cover thinner so a card could fit in the adjacent slot. Although the thickness of the cover is currently way more than the thread depth on any barbs I have so I'm not sure this is a legitimate concern.

Secondly, making the cover thinner would not affect flow at all. The water channels are machined into the block...not the cover.

IanB

12-19-2007, 10:24 AM

Bother. :( I've been assuming that the EK blocks were single-slot, I couldn't see any need for them to take up more space than that just to flow some water over the GPU. :down:

With a fully populated set of slots this seriously ****s up my build design for the future. Are there any single-slot full-cover water-cooling solutions out there for the current generation of GF cards?

Fujimitsu

12-19-2007, 10:55 AM

I'm thinking the FC cover thickness has to do with strength and the block top not cracking.

That's what came to mind for me too, I think you might be able to get away with a thinner top if you made it out of a different material.

Xilikon

12-19-2007, 11:08 AM

Technically, a 1 - 2 mm stainless steel sheet can be used without losing the sealing ability while making it thin enough to be a single-slot design.

virtualrain

12-19-2007, 11:35 AM

I find it hard to believe that the delrin and even plexi top could not be a couple of mm thinner and still be good enough to resist cracking. When's the last time delrin cracked?

Anyway, even counter sinking the screws might be enough.

At any rate, it seems like a major oversight on EK's part.

Eddy_EK

12-19-2007, 01:39 PM

Hi Guys,

I have already asked myself the same questions as you do here.
The plexi tops are really more fragile and using 6mm thick plexi for top (instead of 8mm) would not do good. The tops would crack and users will be saying, EK sucks...
Also sinked screws put different force on to the top which I found not very good for the plexi material. Because the material shrikes when ti cools and extends when it heats, This puts even higher forces to that material.

Sinked screws for the acetal tops could work... I'll look in that direction.

I am not a big fan of a stainless steal tops, if you want that you can go for aquacomputer blocks.

Also I have to tell you that the blocks thickness also depends on the copper thickness. Some cards have higher height difference between GPU and RAM modules. The extreme here are 8800 GTS/Ultre/GTX blocks. So we have to use thicker copper to achieve desired cooling performance and deep enough channels.

Can anyone tell me what is the maximum thickness of the block so it can be called single slot block?

Giuliano

12-19-2007, 02:47 PM

Can anyone tell me what is the maximum thickness of the block so it can be called single slot block?

A typical PCI slot bracket / cover is 15.24 mm wide, so you have to be under that thickness and still account for the thickness of the video card components.

I'd say that 10mm is about the maximum thickness that can fit in a 1-slot design.

AllAgainstPaul

12-19-2007, 07:20 PM

What about a bronze or brass top?

Canadmos

12-19-2007, 07:30 PM

Sinked screws for the acetal tops could work... I'll look in that direction.

I can't speak for anyone else, but I am very interested in a true single slot, full cover waterblock.

:up:

Manicdan

12-19-2007, 09:18 PM

i think it would be nice to see a option for people who want a thinner block. and who dont care for the way it has to look. by running 2 individual channels with 3/8" barbs, you can keep the flow high, and buy keeping the channels narrow and using a metal top instead of derlin or plastic, we can keep it from leaking or cracking.

it wont be built to cool the greatest, just cheap and effective. as people see there is a market and demand, we will see more companies trying

virtualrain

12-19-2007, 10:09 PM

I'm guessing that counter sinking the screws and shaving 2mm off the width of the cover would do the trick.

The thing some people don't understand here is that there is no change in performance by doing this. The cover on EK blocks is solid... there are no water channels machined in it so the only consideration is how thin you can make it before it becomes a cracking liability.

Slots are at a premium in motherboards now (i.e. 780i) and with SLI, a RAID card, an X-FI, and a Physx Card, I have very few motherboard choices as a result. I suspect many other xtreme members are in the same boat. Never mind if you want to go for triple SLI now.

Nate P.

12-19-2007, 10:12 PM

All I can say is: I'M ALL FOR IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

shabranigdo

12-19-2007, 10:20 PM

I would more than second a FC block that keeps the card to a single slot. I don't know how you could give up a sound card for 3 SLI cards visuals are important but so is sound for the true imersive experience. It kinda sucks that with more and more powerful GPU's the cards have grown so much and the MB layout is the same as it was ages ago. I understand changing the board form factor is a major deal but its gotten to the point that 1/2 the expansion slots are now useless. I would jump on a metal cover that gave me back a few mm to use the other slots.

septim

12-19-2007, 10:28 PM

copper top anyone?...

3 SLi, no added sound card, go for external sound device as IanY is pointing out in the other thread...

Xilikon

12-20-2007, 05:17 AM

Acrylic can crack if it is too thin but what about acetal ? It look pretty resilient and I think it can live with 2 mm less and countersunk screws.

shabranigdo

12-20-2007, 06:07 AM

Acrylic can crack if it is too thin but what about acetal ? It look pretty resilient and I think it can live with 2 mm less and countersunk screws.

What about polycarbonate? I remember seeing a video of them hitting a motercycle windscreen made of PC with just about everything up to guns and shotguns. Or metal top, I think we are after minimal size first and bling 2nd.

Eddy_EK

12-20-2007, 08:54 AM

Hi!

I have measured and checked myself and found out if a block would be 16mm thick with sinked screws it would work out for single slot.

shabranigdo

12-20-2007, 02:39 PM

Hi!

I have measured and checked myself and found out if a block would be 16mm thick with sinked screws it would work out for single slot.

Is that possible with your current FC 8800 gtx/ultra if a thinner cover and sinked screws were used, or would that require changes to the base copper piece? I would think if thats possible it would be the ideal solution, minimal work to make a new cover and sell it as an option. A question directed to that is there any machineing to the cover besides the screw holes and logo, or is there a channel for the o-ring? I am planning on using your FC blocks and atm only 2 cards but the idea that an option to fit 3 gpu's water cooled and some expansion cards would be great with a simple cover change. Hell I would more than likely get them even in a 2 GPU setup just to have open and usable expansion slots.

Oh and any ideas on how the 680i mosfet/NB/SB blocks will do on the 780i or if alll new blocks will be needed for that?

Eddy_EK

12-21-2007, 10:00 AM

Is that possible with your current FC 8800 gtx/ultra if a thinner cover and sinked screws were used, or would that require changes to the base copper piece? I would think if thats possible it would be the ideal solution, minimal work to make a new cover and sell it as an option. A question directed to that is there any machining to the cover besides the screw holes and logo, or is there a channel for the o-ring? I am planning on using your FC blocks and atm only 2 cards but the idea that an option to fit 3 gpu's water cooled and some expansion cards would be great with a simple cover change. Hell I would more than likely get them even in a 2 GPU setup just to have open and usable expansion slots.

Oh and any ideas on how the 680i mosfet/NB/SB blocks will do on the 780i or if alll new blocks will be needed for that?

Hi!

I think with current FC blocks if sinked screws the bock could be ised as single slot.
Top has no channels for o-ring, only holes and threads and logo.

680i mosfets will also work on reference design for 780i, only new block for the NB will have to be made.

shabranigdo

12-21-2007, 11:36 AM

Hi!

I think with current FC blocks if sinked screws the bock could be ised as single slot.
Top has no channels for o-ring, only holes and threads and logo.

680i mosfets will also work on reference design for 780i, only new block for the NB will have to be made.

That is great news to hear. I think alot of people here would jump at a single slot solution for the GPU's, giving up a real sound card is not an option in my opinion. Also good to hear about the mosfets, I look forward to seeing how they work for people that upgraded from the 680 board with them. I'll bet the NB & SB will be a pain given all the GPU cards hanging over it. Again good to hear about the FC blocks, they were on my list for my build but I was concerned about spacing, especially if i go nuts and use 3 GPU's.

Do you plan on making a NB block for the 780? I hope so planning on using all your blocks in my build. Thanks again for your attention to this.

Canadmos

12-21-2007, 11:54 AM

Hi!

I think with current FC blocks if sinked screws the bock could be ised as single slot.

This is excellent news. :D

virtualrain

12-21-2007, 03:48 PM

Sunayknits

12-22-2007, 12:41 AM

Alphacool OTC-FLAT 8800GTX FC Block (http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=240&products_id=21380)

Waterlogged

12-22-2007, 12:54 AM

Alphacool OTC-FLAT 8800GTX FC Block (http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=240&products_id=21380)

Restrictive POS.

Cupcake

12-22-2007, 01:06 AM

I can run my xfi directly under my EK FC88 but I have to put a little bit of tape over the screws on the waterblock or they will press up against the PCB of the Xfi

mildseven7

12-22-2007, 02:27 AM

Restrictive POS.

HOW ABOUT THE DangerDen FC. Are they single slot spec??

Sunayknits

12-23-2007, 06:25 PM

Restrictive POS.

Perhaps ... I've never used one; have you? :rolleyes:

If you need more open slots, you don't have too many choices. Besides, I think restriction could be easily overcome with a better pump. You could also put it on a separate loop, further mitigating the possibility of decreased flow.

I do like the idea of a stainless top for the EK blocks ... that would make them considerably thinner, and you could make it look pimp too with some laser etching :up:

Digital Nirvana

12-23-2007, 06:40 PM

Perhaps ... I've never used one; have you? :rolleyes:

If you need more open slots, you don't have too many choices. Besides, I think restriction could be easily overcome with a better pump. You could also put it on a separate loop, further mitigating the possibility of decreased flow.

I do like the idea of a stainless top for the EK blocks ... that would make them considerably thinner, and you could make it look pimp too with some laser etching :up:

did you even LOOK at the block? it is 4mm thick! that means there is going to be so little flow in there if it isn't on its own loop you will have so much restriction it is going to hurt everything in that loop

Waterlogged

12-23-2007, 10:43 PM

Perhaps ... I've never used one; have you? :rolleyes:

If you need more open slots, you don't have too many choices. Besides, I think restriction could be easily overcome with a better pump. You could also put it on a separate loop, further mitigating the possibility of decreased flow.

I do like the idea of a stainless top for the EK blocks ... that would make them considerably thinner, and you could make it look pimp too with some laser etching :up:

No, I haven't, but I don't need to, to know the outcome.

Yeah, don't take just my word, read this as well.
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=164612

MrToad

12-24-2007, 01:08 AM

Hi!

I have measured and checked myself and found out if a block would be 16mm thick with sinked screws it would work out for single slot.

Hi!

I think with current FC blocks if sinked screws the bock could be ised as single slot.
Top has no channels for o-ring, only holes and threads and logo.

680i mosfets will also work on reference design for 780i, only new block for the NB will have to be made.

I can run my xfi directly under my EK FC88 but I have to put a little bit of tape over the screws on the waterblock or they will press up against the PCB of the Xfi

There's a drill press behind me that's smiling like the Cheshire cat ^^

The EK FC blocks perform worse than my current Stealths(*), but they are the best FC blocks on the market, and can deliver something the Stealths can't... Tri-SLI without killing the MB's expansion possibilities...

So, that's one obstacle cleared... now on to the next one: The PSU... let's see what can feed such a power hungry setup (I have the feeling I will have to install another wind turbine just to compensate for it...).

And perhaps investigate further into geothermal cooling, because the amount of radiator surface required is getting ridiculous...

Well, that's one obstacle on the way to Tri-SLI cleared. Thanks everyone for the information.

(*) Disclaimer: Just in case someone wants to second guess, EK FCs do perform worse than the Stealth. This is something that has been tested and proven. However, it's like comparing apples and oranges; the Stealth is NOT a FC block and my comment should not be taken out of context.

Justifire

12-24-2007, 04:33 AM

For Tri-SLI
Just use a flexible pci riser in the lower pci slot and plug in your soundcard.
Not very clean instal, but it works.
http://www.logicsupply.com/products/pci101_flex

Problems i see:
How to watercool the Southbridge with middle vga card installed?
When watercooling 3 cards, we need other barbs or at least lower ones (hope hose wont slip of :S ), as far as i can see now, barbs wont fit under each other.

Xilikon

12-24-2007, 05:19 AM

(*) Disclaimer: Just in case someone wants to second guess, EK FCs do perform worse than the Stealth. This is something that has been tested and proven. However, it's like comparing apples and oranges; the Stealth is NOT a FC block and my comment should not be taken out of context.

Most is already aware of this but most is also not looking to ooze out every C temp drop from the GPU and for those who does, there is better blocks like the Fuzion GPU or Stealth. That's why we are ready to sacrifice a few degrees for a true full cover convenience. The GPU cards is already speced to run over 70C without issues so it's not a big problem...

The EK is the best when it come to full covers. When it come to top performance, either a Stealth or a Fuzion GPU is a winner. MCW60 win for the most versatile design with a good balance between performance and restriction.

Sunayknits

12-25-2007, 06:57 PM

Fair enough, thanks for the link. Interesting to read some opinions on the OTC Flat.

I don't have a need right now for single slot spacing. I use the onboard sound and everything else is integrated so my only add-in cards are the 8800gtx's.

I love all the onboard integration nowadays; there was a time when you needed a card for everyting :down:

However it would be cool if Eddy would make a single-slot board. Probably can't do the acrylic that way - it's thick for strength and counter-sinking the screws might make it prone to cracking.

A slightly thinner base, thin stainless cover, and really flat screws would be ideal.

Thread depth can be shorter as well - when I used some Koolance fittings recently I noticed the threads were shorter than any other, yet they work perfectly even in acrylic. I wonder why everyone else makes the threads so long?

http://www.brimbo.com/temp/mozartbuild/koolance_fittings_001.jpg

Say what you will about Koolance, but their fittings are the bomb :shocked:

MrToad

12-26-2007, 01:57 AM

Thread depth can be shorter as well - when I used some Koolance fittings recently I noticed the threads were shorter than any other, yet they work perfectly even in acrylic. I wonder why everyone else makes the threads so long?

A thread is an inclined plane "wrapped" around a cylinder. If you make the thread longer (thus elongating the inclined plane) you distribute the forces across a larger surface.

Say what you will about Koolance, but their fittings are the bomb :shocked:

"Finger tight" or compression fittings, call them as you like, are not "Koolance" fittings, and although they have an "ease of use" component, they don't come without their drawbacks.

They greatly limit your choice of tubing ID and they are more restrictive than their "barb" or "push-in" counterparts. This is not taken out of my hat, but from Cathar's extensive testing of tubing/fittings combinations and how they affect flow.

Malik

12-26-2007, 04:02 AM

With D-tek this fitings looks great:

http://img181.imageshack.us/img181/3628/dscf0455xp6.jpg http://img172.imageshack.us/img172/1231/dscf0459tj9.jpg

http://img254.imageshack.us/img254/5411/dscf0460wq8.jpg http://img181.imageshack.us/img181/9664/dscf0462ku2.jpg

And with EK blocks:

http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/1994/15tm1.jpg http://img182.imageshack.us/img182/9520/16fg0.jpg

http://img267.imageshack.us/img267/6678/17og7.jpg http://img267.imageshack.us/img267/2217/18jp4.jpg

Waterlogged

12-26-2007, 11:02 AM

A thread is an inclined plane "wrapped" around a cylinder. If you make the thread longer (thus elongating the inclined plane) you distribute the forces across a larger surface.

This can also be achieved by placing the threads closer together, which is usually done the thinner the material gets. Unfortunately though, we can't make use of a finer thread pitch since 98.9% of the stuff we use is G1/4".

"Finger tight" or compression fittings, call them as you like, are not "Koolance" fittings, and although they have an "ease of use" component, they don't come without their drawbacks.

They greatly limit your choice of tubing ID and they are more restrictive than their "barb" or "push-in" counterparts. This is not taken out of my hat, but from Cathar's extensive testing of tubing/fittings combinations and how they affect flow.

The Koolance version of compression fittings have a greatly reduced thread length when compared to others like D-Tek or DD. It could come in handy in more than a few cases with barbed fittings as well. In fact, I believe EK stubbies use this shorter thread as well.

MrToad

12-26-2007, 12:41 PM

This can also be achieved by placing the threads closer together, which is usually done the thinner the material gets. Unfortunately though, we can't make use of a finer thread pitch since 98.9% of the stuff we use is G1/4".

Correct. However, as you kindly point out, the thread would be no longer 1/4" BSPP but something else.

The Koolance version of compression fittings have a greatly reduced thread length when compared to others like D-Tek or DD. It could come in handy in more than a few cases with barbed fittings as well. In fact, I believe EK stubbies use this shorter thread as well.

Correct again. However, regardless of the thread depth, you are still limited to 10/8mm (OD/ID) tubing max on 1/4" BSPP and they are still more restrictive than barbs or push-in fittings.

Waterlogged

12-27-2007, 12:57 AM

Correct again. However, regardless of the thread depth, you are still limited to 10/8mm (OD/ID) tubing max on 1/4" BSPP and they are still more restrictive than barbs or push-in fittings.

OK, a couple quick measurements with my trusty Mitutoyo digital calipers.

D-Tek G1/4" x 1/2" I.D. tubing--fitting I.D.: .397in (10.09mm)
Koolance G1/4" x 1/2" I.D tubing--fitting I.D..: (http://www.frozencpu.com/products/5481/koo-72/Koolance_12_13mm_ID_G14_Threaded_Nozzles_Pair_NZL-V13KG.html?tl=c101s178b4&id=QLFa9uqr) .359in(9.11mm)
*Legris Push-in G1/4" x 12mm O.D.--fitting I.D.: 7mm hex for hex wrench (.276in across the flats of the wrench)

*Due to curious design choices, Legris (or most other Push-in manufacturers) does not make any fitting that will support a tube I.D. as large as 1/2" with a G1/4" thread. For the fitting specified, standard size tubing is either 10mm I.D. or 8mm I.D..The 7mm hex is also touted as a design "feature" should you need to install these in a situation where standard box end wrench use is not possible. :rolleyes:

MrToad

12-27-2007, 11:26 AM

Due to curious design choices, Legris (or most other Push-in manufacturers) does not make any fitting that will support a tube I.D. as large as 1/2" with a G1/4" thread. For the fitting specified, standard size tubing is either 10mm I.D. or 8mm I.D..The 7mm hex is also touted as a design "feature" should you need to install these in a situation where standard box end wrench use is not possible. :rolleyes:

Yup. Legris, Norgren and Camozzi (to mention some) implement hex 7 sockets in their G1/4 push-in fittings (yet in Norgren's case they don't on the BSPT ones, go figure). However, there's still hope. Festo doesn't (to date, they may follow suit, you never know), neither does floMAX (again, to mention some).

And by the way:

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=147767

Three or four months ago I checked all the manufacturers and suppliers I could think on in the search for the push-in fittings Cathar may have used for his tests.

Needless to say, I never found them.

If they were for imperial tubing sizes, they were BSPT. If they were BSPP, tubing size was metric and either they had the $%%@))grrrrrrr##@% hex socket, or they costed a fortune and a half, or both. If they were affordable, BSPP, and readily available, they only had max 10/8mm on G1/4, you needed G3/8 for 12/9mm (example: John Guest).

Finally I found push-in fittings that had 12mm OD, 9mm ID (floMAX) (close enough one would think), and 12/9 tubing with a decent bend radius that was "affordable" (and not in coils of 100m, yehey!). This took weeks, I'm not the sharpest knife in the drawer.

Now I find that push-in fittings are too long (or should I say tall?) for Tri-SLI, so time wasted.

Oh well... let's do some origami, shall we?

Edit: BTW, the Koolance fittings you've linked look cool. And your measured ID looks all right. However, @ $12.99 a pair (which the way things work out in this country, where everything but the Thermochill rads is 33% more expensive than in the US, would be £10 a pair), I can buy myself barbs made of werewolve's fangs.

Edit2: LOL. I was being too conservative. Check this out:

http://www.thecoolingshop.com/product_info.php/cPath/33_62/products_id/2801

So... for my setup that would be... ehmm... well... let me see... £79.52 + delivery in fittings. That's around $166 for you. If I go to the local jeweller's he can probably make me sterling silver barbs for that money. Signed, hallmarked and all :)

Jedda

12-27-2007, 01:44 PM

Bitpower compression fitting (http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&manufacturers_id=153&products_id=22626) for 1/2" 1/8" wall Tygon. Note G1/4 thread length.

YugenM

12-27-2007, 01:50 PM

MrToad

12-27-2007, 02:15 PM

Bitpower compression fitting (http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&manufacturers_id=153&products_id=22626) for 1/2" 1/8" wall Tygon. Note G1/4 thread length.

:shocked: $9.95 each... these ones make the Koolance fittings look like a car boot sale bargain.

I think I'm in the wrong thread... if not in the wrong forum. Do you guys seriously spend that kind of money in fittings? I was feeling guilty of gross extravagance because the push-in fittings were about $3 each...

YugenM

12-27-2007, 02:32 PM

:shocked: $9.95 each... these ones make the Koolance fittings look like a car boot sale bargain.

I think I'm in the wrong thread... if not in the wrong forum. Do you guys seriously spend that kind of money in fittings? I was feeling guilty of gross extravagance because the push-in fittings were about $3 each...

$3 each for my compression fittings :shrug:

mildseven7

12-28-2007, 01:39 AM

$3 each for my compression fittings :shrug:

I originally use the cheap 3-4 dollar Compression fitting, but now using all koolance compression fitting. The price is double, but the koolance one have much much thinner wall, more flow. Dont know if the bitspower have same thin wall as koolance

RX7boricua

12-28-2007, 05:35 AM

Hurry up Eddy, I'm running out of time on this EVGA 780i Upgrade thing! :P I don't want to run the stock NB heatsink, I want to sell my 680i block and replace it with a 780i, and I want it to be an EK block! GO GO GO!

Hi!

I think with current FC blocks if sinked screws the bock could be ised as single slot.
Top has no channels for o-ring, only holes and threads and logo.

680i mosfets will also work on reference design for 780i, only new block for the NB will have to be made.

Eddy_EK

12-28-2007, 07:45 AM

Waterlogged

12-28-2007, 09:28 AM

Hey Mclovin ;)

The only thing that I need is the NB block positions.
So, I need chipset holes and chips heights to make a block for that.
If anyone has the card and could give me accurate measures we can make it sooner. Because I don't know when will the card come in our stores.

Eddy, Maybe you could head over to EVGA's forums, set up a rapport with them and explain what you need and see if you can get them to give you the dimensions "behind closed doors". With all the blocks you make, you should be able to get access to the dims you need without having to wait. There should be some kind of special access for "aftermarket cooling vendors" that you can take advantage of.

MrToad

12-28-2007, 12:35 PM

Eddy, Maybe you could head over to EVGA's forums, set up a rapport with them and explain what you need and see if you can get them to give you the dimensions "behind closed doors". With all the blocks you make, you should be able to get access to the dims you need without having to wait. There should be some kind of special access for "aftermarket cooling vendors" that you can take advantage of.

Wouldn't a EVGA 780i Black Pearl Edition "Powered by EK" look sexy? Definitely sexier than the Innovatek stuff :D And better performing too! ^^

Mind you, for now, as Waterlogged says, the exact measures and tolerances straight from "the horse's mouth" would do :)