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View Full Version : What is wrong with this modded Mach 2? Video and Pic



Nosfer@tu
12-18-2007, 07:13 AM
hey all.

My mate was this Mach 2 and it has been modded.
problem is builder thinks it is the shipping company and states that it was working finde under load in his workshop.

You cant hear any sounds when the Mach is running idle and is not connected.
it just never goes below -33 C° but the display reads it as -82C°

I know it should not be a leak, because then the temps should go lower. is it overcharged ? I doubth it but it sounds like it.

Or is it oil dripping into the refrigurant ?

the package dident have any visible damages when he recived it, but is it really possible that it could be dammaged anyway ?

here is
video 1 http://overclockingteam.dk/ss_unit/video1.wmv
Video 2 http://overclockingteam.dk/ss_unit/video2.wmv

http://overclockingteam.dk/ss_unit/DSCN0016a.jpg
Is this normal for insulation ?
http://overclockingteam.dk/ss_unit/DSCN0018a.jpg
and this ?
http://overclockingteam.dk/ss_unit/DSCN0019a.jpg

http://overclockingteam.dk/ss_unit/DSCN0021a.jpg

http://overclockingteam.dk/ss_unit/DSCN0022a.jpg
here you se the load temp. 4.4 ghz at 1.6 Vcore.
Reads -81 c° in display and -28,7 c° on tempreader.

Pete
12-18-2007, 07:55 AM
Borked compresser by sound of it off the video i think!

There is oil in the refrige, it lubricates the system and is pumped round if im not mistaken. Might be overfiled with it.

Blocked cap tube?

No leak as when running it'd lose all the gas as it's put under presure!

Duniek
12-18-2007, 07:56 AM
quality of sound is poor

but I am in 80% sure its a floodback

unit is overcharged a little

Nosfer@tu
12-18-2007, 08:05 AM
Borked compresser by sound of it off the video i think!

There is oil in the refrige, it lubricates the system and is pumped round if im not mistaken. Might be overfiled with it.

Blocked cap tube?

No leak as when running it'd lose all the gas as it's put under presure!
I have heard that it can loos gas over longer periods though.

Blocked cap tube? it up for the question now 2.

The oil thing was mentioned 2 me by a freind, he said that a compressor migth sound defect when the oil dripes into the cold gas.


quality of sound is poor

but I am in 80% sure its a floodback

unit is overcharged a little

maybe we can do another test but kill all the fans.
1-2 min run wouldent damage anything would it ?

Cant you heard the LOUDE sounds Duniek, it sounds like the piston is flying around in there?

Duniek
12-18-2007, 08:22 AM
maybe we can do another test but kill all the fans.
1-2 min run wouldent damage anything would it ?

Cant you heard the LOUDE sounds Duniek, it sounds like the piston is flying around in there?


1-2minutes noo

20-30 minutes maybe

when you hear that noises look at this
http://img70.imageshack.us/img70/478/11ox8.jpg

if you have a frost here
its floodback for sure

try with stronger cpu

xt0m
12-18-2007, 08:24 AM
if you have a frost here
its floodback for sure

try with stronger cpu

Thats affirmative.. Altho I cant think of anything developing more heat than a kenty at 4.4? :)

Duniek
12-18-2007, 08:46 AM
Thats affirmative.. Altho I cant think of anything developing more heat than a kenty at 4.4? :)

you can "take off" (forget about good word) some refrigerant from SS

if you dont have manifold
you can push valve after condenser a little
during max load @ QX (3d mark I guess)
http://img134.imageshack.us/img134/4594/szaa8.jpg

xt0m
12-18-2007, 09:20 AM
pushed it for about a second, unit now gets to -35 at startup (as opposed to -32.5 before)
unit isnt mounted, just "pure" boot

Supertim0r
12-18-2007, 09:34 AM
overcharged

it's liquid floodback

Supertim0r
12-18-2007, 09:38 AM
you can "take off" (forget about good word) some refrigerant from SS

if you dont have manifold
you can push valve after condenser a little
during max load @ QX (3d mark I guess)

and do this on the high side when running, not low pressure side or you will let the moisture enter your unit (it's probably running in vac)

you can also wait when the unit is off for some time and do this on the low pressure side

Duniek
12-18-2007, 09:45 AM
pushed it for about a second, unit now gets to -35 at startup (as opposed to -32.5 before)
unit isnt mounted, just "pure" boot


keep it pushing :ROTF:

check at load now, when refrigerant take off from unit
you tuning SS as well

when you load cpu on max push valve and
frost line must be end about 1cm near compressor only
then will be fine


and do this on the high side when running, not low pressure side or you will let the moisture enter your unit (it's probably running in vac)

you can also wait when the unit is off for some time and do this on the low pressure side

I write it ;) (after condenser so high side of course)

unit filled by r507 404 or 402 I guess

so when it has -27 -35 it more than 0 bar during load
so you can push low side valve to
but more safety is push high side ;)

V2-V3
12-18-2007, 09:46 AM
sounds like slugging to me "Liquid refrigerant returning into the compressor" there are 2 sounds that are telling to me, one is the burping or bubbling sound as the refrigerant is being released from the oil in the compressor. the second sound is the metallic clanking which can be attributed to the attempted compression of the liquid refrigerant causing the internal components to vibrate wildly and occasionally bounce off the outer compressor shell.

most likely the compressor has endured some severe damage due to the overcharge of refrigerant, you can try to bleed off some refrigerant while under load. but be advised on local laws and regulations concerning refrigerant handling.


If the cap tube is partially obstructed there would be no frost on the suction line, as well as an extremely high discharge temperature.

when the system is under load try to take a suction line temp and discharge temp.

DagoDuck
12-18-2007, 10:00 AM
Hi Nosfer@tu, who has modified the unit? However, the unit was isolated slovenly. After your description I would say that the unit is overcharged.

xt0m
12-18-2007, 10:04 AM
when you load cpu on max push valve and
frost line must be end about 1cm near compressor only
then will be fine

i was under the (mistaken?) impression that pushing the high-side valve during power on would result in heated discharge? :shrug:

killermiller
12-18-2007, 10:30 AM
It will cause liquid refrigerant to be discharged as vapor and will be cold.

xt0m
12-18-2007, 10:46 AM
oh.. well thanks for clearing that up :toast:

xt0m
12-18-2007, 11:03 AM
So basically I can push the high valve even when its on until I find an um.. suitable idle temp?

Duniek
12-18-2007, 11:08 AM
So basically I can push the high valve even when its on until I find an um.. suitable idle temp?

idle temp sholud be about -45-50 on evap
depend of many things

BUT better when you push it on load

bcoz when you push up too much refrigernat unit might be not hold quad

xt0m
12-18-2007, 11:12 AM
idle temp sholud be about -45-50 on evap
depend of many things

BUT better when you push it on load

bcoz when you push up too much refrigernat unit might be not hold quad

:eek: mkay, ill try - unit's doing ~-38 idle atm

killermiller
12-18-2007, 11:15 AM
I think you would want to do it unloaded and check loaded temps. Load will cause pressure to be greater and may discharge too much eash press.

xt0m
12-18-2007, 11:20 AM
tbh I'm unsure about how much to discharge all together.. having pressed about 3 seconds out already

Nosfer@tu
12-18-2007, 11:40 AM
Hi Nosfer@tu, who has modified the unit? However, the unit was isolated slovenly. After your description I would say that the unit is overcharged.

A guy called tim in stockholm.
Normaly I would not try and hang a mand out and risk his reputation.
BUT when he denies all responsebility and trys to blame the shipping company, and please note the package was in mint/perfect confition.
Then you are asking for it, I mean just admit you made a screw up!

I and tom payd 4500 DKK = 580 Euro for these modifications including shipping, thats well over 292 Euro pr person and now he denies all responsebility claiming the unit was working perfect at his shop.

Apparently he is either trying to bail on his responsibility or is just to ignorant to build phase. Now this thread was NOT made to bash him, it was made to solve the problem he dident understand/dident care about.

So now I think he should reconsider why he builds phase and everybody else should think twice before buying from him.

Here is the thread about our build.
http://www.octeamdenmark.com/forums/showthread.php?t=524

ALSO I understand that besides the overcharge, the reason Xtom´s unit is going crazy is that one of the pipes wasent bent to perhibit the oil from flowing out the compressor ?

tiborrr
12-18-2007, 11:43 AM
I tune the unit while Primeing and checking for temperatures. The temperatures should improve a bit if the unit was overcharged. If the unit is still making the plunk-plunk sound under load, i turn it off, let it cool down and release some gas through service valve (1 second long release each time). Then repeat. When the plunk-plunk noise goes away, you know you hit the spot.

It is good to have some old Celeron (Prescott) to tune the unit properly. Easy adjustable 100-450W heatload cartridge, better and more real-life than any resistor heater.

V2-V3
12-18-2007, 11:45 AM
tbh I'm unsure about how much to discharge all together.. having pressed about 3 seconds out already

no way to know how much unless you know the exact amount used to charge the system and how much has been released. you will have to put the quad on a full load, 2 instances of orthos with affinity set will do the job, and slowly bleed out refrigerant until you get the right evap/cpu temp. I performed the same operation at an out of town LAN event, i slowly released refrigerant from the high side while under load until the cpu temp bottomed out and when the temp started to rise I stopped removing refrigerant from the system.

that is probly the best way to tune a phase unit w/out any HVAC tools :)

it should take any where from 30min - an hour to tune it that way.

Take your time! if you release too much your phase will not be able to cool your Quad...

once you release some refrigerant i suggest waiting 5-10 min for the system to stabilize before you adjust the charge again.

xt0m
12-18-2007, 11:48 AM
no way to know how much unless you know the exact amount used to charge the system and how much has been released. you will have to put the quad on a full load, 2 instances of orthos with affinity set will do the job, and slowly bleed out refrigerant until you get the right evap/cpu temp. I performed the same operation at an out of town LAN event, i slowly released refrigerant from the high side while under load until the cpu temp bottomed out and when the temp started to rise I stopped removing refrigerant from the system.

that is probly the best way to tune a phase unit w/out any HVAC tools :)

it should take any where from 30min - an hour to tune it that way.

Take your time! if you release too much your phase will not be able to cool your Quad...

once you release some refrigerant i suggest waiting 5-10 min for the system to stabilize before you adjust the charge again.

Cool, thx buddy :D :idea:

[XC] gomeler
12-18-2007, 12:27 PM
God I hope that thing is charged with a hydrocarbon or are we suggesting for individuals to break laws in regards to handling refrigerants.. I don't care if it's just a few quick shots of refrigerant, there's a legal reason as to why builders recover refrigerants and don't just vent them. Walt would have a field day right now I imagine :shakes:

xt0m
12-18-2007, 01:19 PM
Okay, looks like all your advice paid off :up:

Primed at 4.4 GHz @ 1.7v and let off some coolant every few minutes until temps stabilized.
Temps finally stable at -37 when doing 4.4 GHz @ 1.7v - with no floodback sounds or "clanks"

Now idle at qx6850 default speed/vcore and temp reads -46.8 (and no noises of any kind)

Thanks a lot for the help!! :eleph: :bows: :bounces:

Nosfer@tu
12-18-2007, 02:34 PM
Now I tok mine appart, my girl claimed to smell gas.
She has seen a few fires so se always reacts very proptly if anythings smells wrong, and she is dead rigth every time.

This time she must be wrong thoug. But I have no clew what could smell besides the electronis or the compressor getting very hot.

I took mine apart and looked a bit around, was getting worried if I 2 had sped 300 euro on somthing that would need a rebuild.

Noticed this, I just did a few paint skills on the pic, no need to take one atm.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2030/2120748039_da74cf4663_o.jpg

This is the picture I saw of our units, but after opening them I see the dryer is laying down. that is not normal is it ?

Supertim0r
12-18-2007, 02:40 PM
It's not a problem.

could you check your compressor temp after you fixed the "overcharge" ?

I bet it's running at least 60-80c. I had similar problem and removing some gas gave me crazy high compressor temp.

I guess next time I modify it, i'll put a suction accumulator

tiborrr
12-18-2007, 02:41 PM
Dryier should be mounted as is on the picture to provide good seal. If its mounted horizontally it could cause some problems by not catching majority of the oil possibly spitted in the loop by the compressor.

Besides, NL11F is an R134a compressor so it runs fairly hot on R404a / R507a. I would recommend a fan blowing over the head of compressor.

P.S.: What would you guys recommend - suction or discharge accumulator? In an single stage cooling unit with a fairly down-to-earth compressor (cca. 11-14ccm, 1/3 - 1/2hp)?

Supertim0r
12-18-2007, 02:44 PM
Dryier should be mounted as is on the picture to provide good seal. If its mounted horizontally it could cause some problems by not catching majority of the oil possibly spitted in the loop by the compressor.

Besides, NL11F is an R134a compressor so it runs fairly hot on R404a / R507a. I would recommend a fan blowing over the head of compressor.

P.S.: What would you guys recommend - suction or discharge accumulator?

you can't run a discharge accumulator (receiver) with cap tube

there is no problem with the dryier installed horizontally. The unit have barely 3-4ft of piping. With a suction accumulator, you will have to add some oil

tiborrr
12-18-2007, 02:50 PM
I know that, i was talking generaly - receiver right after condenser as seen on some cold_ice cascade (http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=101171) or accumulator on the suction line.

I know, i am thread hijacking... Back to topic.

Duniek
12-18-2007, 02:56 PM
Dryier should be mounted as is on the picture to provide good seal. If its mounted horizontally it could cause some problems by not catching majority of the oil possibly spitted in the loop by the compressor.

Besides, NL11F is an R134a compressor so it runs fairly hot on R404a / R507a. I would recommend a fan blowing over the head of compressor.

P.S.: What would you guys recommend - suction or discharge accumulator? In an single stage cooling unit with a fairly down-to-earth compressor (cca. 11-14ccm, 1/3 - 1/2hp)?

dryer might be placed in horizontal position with a little angle to down
or just on pic, its good position

and discharge receiver isnt good idea when you want use a cap tube
but suction is better then, it will be floodback protector

@Nosfer@tu
hot isnt a good word :)

pls measure temp of head of compressor
when you runnig on load (50-60-70*C it will be normal temp)
for rotary compressor 100*C is normal :)

@tiborrr
blowing fans is nothing
copressor is cooling by cold* refrigernant which is back to compressor

Supertim0r
12-18-2007, 03:00 PM
I know that, i was talking generaly - receiver right after condenser as seen on some cold_ice cascade (http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=101171) or accumulator on the suction line.

I know, i am thread hijacking... Back to topic.

Danfoss TES2 with 00 orifice <- expansion valve, not cap tube (expansion valve will adjust the quantity of gas with the load, cap tube don't)

yep, back to the topic

Supertim0r
12-18-2007, 03:02 PM
@Duniek : suction accumulator will give you 15-25c more of superheat. Compressor will run colder then undercharged unit but not a lot

Nosfer@tu
12-18-2007, 03:07 PM
Im learning, So for my seak dont get back on topic ;)

Btw is it normal with the driyer like that ?
Where should that ben be that would prevent the oil going around in the system ?

tiborrr
12-18-2007, 03:08 PM
Tnx for the heads up, supertim0r, haven't read it properly obviously. GJ! ;)

Topic!!!

LittleDevil
12-18-2007, 03:28 PM
Btw is it normal with the driyer like that ?

Yes it is all ok with dryer/filter position, don't worry about that.


Okay, looks like all your advice paid off

Primed at 4.4 GHz @ 1.7v and let off some coolant every few minutes until temps stabilized.
Temps finally stable at -37 when doing 4.4 GHz @ 1.7v - with no floodback sounds or "clanks"

Now idle at qx6850 default speed/vcore and temp reads -46.8 (and no noises of any kind)

Thanks a lot for the help!!

Sounds good, what about if you put vcore on 1.8V or more, does it hold temps?

Regards

tiborrr
12-18-2007, 03:34 PM
QX6850ES puts out about 345W (+/- 5&#37;) of heatload, pressuming its an Kentsfield-XE core (130W TDP = about 110W ACP = 290W ACP heatload) when the chip is priming on all four cores... Adding more Vcore might push the unit over the edge.

LittleDevil
12-18-2007, 03:43 PM
QX6850ES puts out about 345W (+/- 5%) of heatload, pressuming its an Kentsfield-XE core (130W TDP = about 110W ACP = 290W ACP heatload) when the chip is priming on all four cores... Adding more Vcore might push the unit over the edge.

Is that is real, there is no unit that it can hold QX6850ES at 345W. His unit was tuned for 230W if i'm corect before he left out some gas and we saw that is overcharged.

Best Regards

tiborrr
12-18-2007, 03:52 PM
Do the math. TDP of QX6850 is 130W, lets say actual heat output is about 20W lower than thermal design point.

Pn = Pt * (vn/vt) * (Un&#178;/Ut&#178;)

- TDP - thermal design point (Pt = power [W])
- Default voltage (Ut = voltage [V])
- Default frequency (νt = frequency [MHz])
- Overclocked voltage (Un = ...)
- Overclocked frequency (vn...)

If we take TDP=ACP=110W,Vcore=1.3V,3000MHz, 4400MHz, 1.75V we get 295 Watts.

killermiller
12-18-2007, 04:12 PM
The heat output isn't linear.

tiborrr
12-18-2007, 04:22 PM
Indeed, it isn't linear, it's even worse. Thermal resistance grows with wattage aswell.

[XC] 2long4u
12-18-2007, 05:13 PM
The dryer is like that so there will always be liquid going into the captube.
By the way where is the captube?

tim-
12-19-2007, 02:40 AM
peter:
sad to hear you can't talk to me directly instead of putting it on a forum. especially when it seems like you havn't heard the whole story.

well first off tom contacted me about a week ago and we have talk about this. He told me it was running perfectly without any noises or issues when he picked it up and test it (a couple of months ago).

and now like last week, it's making strange shutdowns (just hitting -30 or something and shut down). i told him it's the controller that's making the strange shutdowns (it's happend before on other mach units). then a couple of days later he tells me he have solve the shutdown issue (the controller as i said).

at this point the noises is still there. i got 2 wmv files, and of the sounds I mentioned it could be a damaged compressor since it's a bit mechanic to be floodback

those did -31 and -33 @ 230w load with same loadblock temp in my workshop. a slightly floodback during 0w load is normal as i've already mention to tom.

this was sent to me 2007-12-17 02:42 together with the videos

"Hi Tim,

As agreed here are the audio recordings of the SS Unit running with my QX6850 @ 4.4 GHz with fans on Turbo.
Listen carefully, and you will note the ”clicks” and ”coughs” that stand out.

I’ve added a few pics of the insulation, taken with my digicam, as well..

/t0m"


this what was making me judge about the damaged compressor. if it was as much floodback as you hear in the video the compressor should be totally freezed at the bottom which it isn't.

this just makes me confused. on emails i get one history, and here i see another. well atleast it's good that in the ens it runs good.


regards
Tim

Nosfer@tu
12-19-2007, 03:01 AM
peter:
sad to hear you can't talk to me directly instead of putting it on a forum. especially when it seems like you havn't heard the whole story.

I have all the emails and from what I read you blame the shipping company, isent that why you wanted the Track and trace nr ?


well first off tom contacted me about a week ago and we have talk about this. He told me it was running perfectly without any noises or issues when he picked it up and test it (a couple of months ago). yes it does without load.


and now like last week, it's making strange shutdowns (just hitting -30 or something and shut down). i told him it's the controller that's making the strange shutdowns (it's happend before on other mach units). then a couple of days later he tells me he have solve the shutdown issue (the controller as i said).

Correct, so now we could accualy run it and give it load, because of the firmware update, and it is under load the unit dosent work well, but you tested that already I understand ? and It worked fine, you had no problems with the unit shutting down ?


at this point the noises is still there. i got 2 wmv files, and of the sounds I mentioned it could be a damaged compressor since it's a bit mechanic to be floodback apparently it is a building flaw, you diden do a bend that would perhibit the oil from flowing around in the unit. That is why it sounds so mecanical.


those did -31 and -33 @ 230w load with same loadblock temp in my workshop. a slightly floodback during 0w load is normal as i've already mention to tom.
Tim, the unit has floodback and amazingly funny sounds even at QX6850 @ 4.3 Ghz 1.7 Vcore.
You dident se any floodback at your house ? Or at least so you told me.




this was sent to me 2007-12-17 02:42 together with the videos

"Hi Tim,

As agreed here are the audio recordings of the SS Unit running with my QX6850 @ 4.4 GHz with fans on Turbo.
Listen carefully, and you will note the ”clicks” and ”coughs” that stand out.

I’ve added a few pics of the insulation, taken with my digicam, as well..

/t0m"


this what was making me judge about the damaged compressor. if it was as much floodback as you hear in the video the compressor should be totally freezed at the bottom which it isn't.

this just makes me confused. on emails i get one history, and here i see another. well atleast it's good that in the ens it runs good.

regards
Tim
hello Tim, Just accept that the unit is Not damaged, that you overcharged it and we could have fixed it very fast. Apparenly you dident test it, you couldent anylyse it and we had to get help from somone else.
Now I went to XS, spoke to some others and everybody knew what the problem was.
you dident! So what would I have gained speaking more to you ? You stated that the compressor was propperly broke and that we should find track and trace number so we could claim money from the shipping company.

I belive you chaged my Unit, figured that was great, charged Xtoms with the same amount and never even bothered to turn it on.
Because IF YOU DID; you would have spotted the lowest idle was -33 and that when applying load the unit is screaming for its life.

Nosfer@tu
12-19-2007, 03:10 AM
The dryer is like that so there will always be liquid going into the captube.
By the way where is the captube?

I dont have a picture of it, I will take some when I get home.

TopherTony
12-19-2007, 08:58 AM
This really is not an issue to be solved in public.

killermiller
12-19-2007, 09:32 AM
I am not taking sides here but Tims testing conditions may be different than your running conditions. Floodback is not always overcharging, it could also be over condensing. If evap temps are high and superheat is much lower could be a sign of too much subcooling. I am going through this myself.

tim-
12-19-2007, 10:40 AM
killermiller:
thats an option to but without some info it's impossible to judge.
in my workshop they where running fine thats what I can say, you didn't want to go and chech them up or pick then up when you where in town.

to judge of the situation it seems like it was overcharged for the conditions it's running in, here it was no issues whatever you say peter, as you know you where invited to both run then and try them when you where in town but it wasn't interesting.
I also mentioned to let some gas out in one of my emails but it seems like peter havn't read that line either, it seems like you havn't read any of the emails expect the part i mention it could be a damaged compressor.


I won't argue about this anymore. now peter and tom have let gas out and seems to solve the issue, I'm happy for them it was that easily done.

Peter:
get a book and read before making any statements about something you don't know, for example compressors, filter driers (both function and position), pipe bending tecniques, the whole book honestly. I' not trying to be rude, just honest.


about the controller:
i had no problems with unit shutting off, i would have report something like that for you ofcourse.

i told you it might be a damaged compressor because of the facts i got on my hand. to get back to what you've report asince you got them:

first time shortly after picking up:
- both running perfect
- peter mention his girlfriend notice a smell.

now:
- toms units makes strange noices
- peters units still working as good as when picked up, still smell.
- i get 2 videos.

to copy a part my own answear to the videofiles:
"To be honest I’cant judge if it’s floodback or something else, it sounds a bit mechanic to be floodback. . If you run it with your quad loaded, that’s not floodback you hear, it’s something else. "

I don't think i got a fair chance to anything about this with 2different stories + the report saying everything was running fine and smooth when arrived (2months or something ago). what i got is two videos with poor soundquality and a two tempreports, nothing else.

-------------

what do you PETER think i have for answear about the unit for you to judge on the history on msn/email? i made the statement about compressor damage from the reports on msn as well as emails. the story i got: toms unit has running perfect for two months (when it picked up), then suddenly 2monts later it's making strange noices and the temps is poor. what else then a leak/damaged compressor could it be that cause poor temps? the leak was not an option due to the strange noises, what's left to do?

an old mach2 suddenly makes strange noice?

noone would make a different judgement then a damaged compressor out of that information, especially not when they know the compressor was running perfect in their own workshop as well as when delivered.

you have give me one history, and xtremesystems another one. to be honest, why would you say it was working fine the first time? why would you say it if you havn't test it? the shutting down have never been mentioned before, which you claims now was an issue from the beginning, which you 100&#37; should do if it has been like this since it comes from me (as you claim now).

you are lying for someone, in the emails and/or here.



to talk about the smell.
it's pressuretested, leakfree and running ok (both in my shop and you say so too), that is my responsibility. if your electrical is messed up or something else, it's out of my responsibility since that wasn't what i was hired for.

Pete
12-19-2007, 12:18 PM
Stick mod's hate on that i nicked off Jin.

Is this possibly going to need to go to build/customer relations topic at all?

Duniek helped you out with some sound advice and got the unit perfoming and working better correct?

Hands Jin back his hate (ya job is tough)

Fujimitsu
12-19-2007, 12:29 PM
Stick mod's hate on that i nicked off Jin.

Is this possibly going to need to go to build/customer relations topic at all?

Duniek helped you out with some sound advice and got the unit perfoming and working better correct?

Hands Jin back his hate (ya job is tough)

hat?

But yeah it looks like this might warrant a thread in that subforum. Please don't just lock this and tell them to take care of it in PMs though, I for one like to see the experiences that people have had with builders.

jinu117
12-19-2007, 03:45 PM
LoL... honestly I go far softer on this part of forum than some other mods would do...
I am in strange position where I am one of the most active member at same time moderator :P
There are whole bunch of things I don't like seeing floating around but I learned to restrain myself (or I think :P)
I tend to think the operation condition and tuning condition was too different in such situation.
Dimimus discharge is allowable at least in US but still, this is something I don't recommend people doing by themselves since there are good chaces where people can screw up system royally. I make sure I can see if someone played with this for my warranty pruposes myself.

Nosfer@tu
12-20-2007, 03:48 AM
killermiller:
thats an option to but without some info it's impossible to judge.
in my workshop they where running fine thats what I can say, you didn't want to go and chech them up or pick then up when you where in town.. Whe where at Intels place in Kirsta, you remember? You where invited but dident show ;)



I won't argue about this anymore. now peter and tom have let gas out and seems to solve the issue, I'm happy for them it was that easily done.



Peter:
get a book and read before making any statements about something you don't know, for example compressors, filter driers (both function and position), pipe bending tecniques, the whole book honestly. I' not trying to be rude, just honest.
thats why we paid you m8.
I can only say everybody else spotted it was overcharge, by magic you dident see that you overcharged it.



first time shortly after picking up:
- both running perfect
- peter mention his girlfriend notice a smell.

now:
- toms units makes strange noices
- peters units still working as good as when picked up, still smell.
- i get 2 videos.
Tim, do please reread my erliger posts if you dont understand what im saying.
We tested his unit IDLE = Fine
After testing Load or just for more than the 2 min we had before the controller shut down it started making noise.

fact of the matter is :
You overcharged the compressor, okay :banana::banana::banana::banana: happens, how you did that and not fiund out is a mistury to me. Maybe you only ran it at 230 watt?

Never mind this thread, Lock it for all I care :)
have sortet my problem and everybody else could help us. So problem solved.

KTE
12-21-2007, 05:30 AM
Do the math. TDP of QX6850 is 130W, lets say actual heat output is about 20W lower than thermal design point.

Pn = Pt * (vn/vt) * (Un²/Ut²)

- TDP - thermal design point (Pt = power [W])
- Default voltage (Ut = voltage [V])
- Default frequency (νt = frequency [MHz])
- Overclocked voltage (Un = ...)
- Overclocked frequency (vn...)

If we take TDP=ACP=110W,Vcore=1.3V,3000MHz, 4400MHz, 1.75V we get 295 Watts.Where is this formula taken from tiborrr?
Also "W" are you using actual measured power consumption of cores or estimates? Because cores typically do not have the power consumption of the TDP rating for P95 loads, usually a lot lower since Core 2.