How much better KX7 over KR7?

[Malecky]

Right now I have the option to choose My KR7A is running great just burned my 1600+ but will get a new swank one soon. H2O is on its way so that will take me to 2Ghz and a Abit Siluro Ti4200 with a 80W pelt hopefuly quite farr:)

I had a KX7 but did not test it with my PC2100 Samsung stick and I wanted to ask you how much would I gain with a KX7 when at 199mhz FSB with all tweks and options on I score 3100/2850 in Sandra 2002.

Would the KX7 be a good upgrade...well I know it will be one but how good? I gotta do the voltmods again:D

[Bravo]

Only slight performance increase. Well within 3%. The extra BIOS options do help in 3DMark, as does the higher bandwidth efficiency. The 1/5 PCI divider also helps.

I'd go the KX7 over the KR7 for the BIOS alone. But i'd stay for the features ;)

[Malecky]

Originally posted by Majestik
Only slight performance increase. Well within 3%. The extra BIOS options do help in 3DMark, as does the higher bandwidth efficiency. The 1/5 PCI divider also helps.

I'd go the KX7 over the KR7 for the BIOS alone. But i'd stay for the features ;)

Well what you wrote does not point me to a KX7. It would if I were buying a new mobo, but this would be just a switch so thats just too little.

[Bravo]

It is better then the KR7A then. I've found the BIOS options (memory timings, agp settings, BIOS settings), overclocking (FSB/general) are alot better then the KR7A.

[Malecky]

Bu almost no 3Dmark improvement... I have worked with many KX7s but they were not mine so I did not bench my HW.

just stick with my KR7A I think... But my next upgrade is sure to be a KT400 board from Abit.

[Malecky]

OK someone will buy my KR7A for 130$ so then I can buy a KX7 for the same price.

My Q: Before I had no reason to switch mobos so I didnt read about the different revisions that much, but all the KX7 I have seen now have a plastic socket lever and the big silver Nichcon cons.

Does it matter now which one I get?

[Bravo]

If you were upgrading from an older board, KX7. If not, stick with your KR7A.

Assuming you could go to the KX7 for 0 cost, then i would.

[Malecky]

Originally posted by Majestik
If you were upgrading from an older board, KX7. If not, stick with your KR7A.

Assuming you could go to the KX7 for 0 cost, then i would.

Well the only thing I would like is the 5 divider, my Live does not work @50mhz PCI and my drive too.

I think I will switch with no extra costs. But which version I have 10 mobos to choose from! If I get one with the metal socket lever then I will take that one....I think there is some small difference.

[Bravo]

Silver Caps, Metal leaver, and the right sized gnomes to run the processor :rolleyes:

[shadco]

Me thinks it's the Nichon caps that matter and not the lever. My AT7 has the Nichon caps my KX7 has the rubycon caps for now.

THe same ram and cpus both go higher on the AT7 than they do on the KX7. The AT7 has the plastic socket lever.

Shad

[spaceboy]

is this the rubicon http://www.xtremesystems.org//images/Voltmod/Vcore%20targets.JPG

and these the nichicon caps?

http://www.xtremesystems.org/images/Voltmod/VCoreMod.JPG




i also think the matter are the caps not the lever!

[Trevor]

Originally posted by shadco
Me thinks it's the Nichon caps that matter and not the lever.
Thats what I found, I have a kx7, plastic levers with Nichicon caps.

[MrIcee]

Guys...it is the caps that matter, definitely. I had just put the 2 together because thats the way they were being produced in the KX7's. The early KX7's were merely KR7A's with the KT333 chipset addition...as the late KR7A's used the Rubycon caps and plastic levers. There must have been voltage issues...as they switched to the Nichicons...which incidently is what the KR7A initially was produced with. I have found much better voltages with the Nichicon cap versions.

Randi:D

[Malecky]

Originally posted by MrIcee
Guys...it is the caps that matter, definitely. I had just put the 2 together because thats the way they were being produced in the KX7's. The early KX7's were merely KR7A's with the KT333 chipset addition...as the late KR7A's used the Rubycon caps and plastic levers. There must have been voltage issues...as they switched to the Nichicons...which incidently is what the KR7A initially was produced with. I have found much better voltages with the Nichicon cap versions.

Randi:D

OK, I called the Abit dealer for Slovenia and he said Abit droped the Metal ZIF lever anyhow, he doesnt have anymore of those boards and all the boards have Nichicon caps.

Oh...Forgot to tell you.... in Every BOX there is a beach ball......looking at one right now....your reliabla partner:D