Project HydroHaze ^2 (Not 56k friendly)

[warbux]

Okay so I decided to post my first worklog, so I present to you. HydroHaze (squared)

Okay so I am using a mountain mod ufo u2 case, a q6600 g0, 2 pny 8800 gtx's, 2 raptors, 1 evga 680i A1 mobo, and 4 gigs of ocz 1100 Flexxlc ram. with main power, and lighting controled by remote control keychain.

Cooling 2x ddc02 pumps, micro res, barrel res, pa 102.3 rad, swiftek short profile 240mm rad 9x 120mm yates loon fans, 3x 120mm silver stone 130 cfm fans with speed control in push/pull on pa 102.3(for when I am ocing for scores) 1x dtek fuzion cpu block w nozzel, 2x dtek fuzion gpu blocks, 1x voltage regulator block by EK, 2x mcw30 blocks for southbridge and northbridge.

Will be updating this project as I go.

http://http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q4/davidjcox/projects/P1000205.jpg

http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q4/davidjcox/projects/P1000206.jpg

http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q4/davidjcox/projects/P1000207.jpg

http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q4/davidjcox/projects/P1000208.jpg

http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q4/davidjcox/projects/P1000202.jpg

http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q4/davidjcox/projects/P1000201.jpg

http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q4/davidjcox/projects/P1000200.jpg

http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q4/davidjcox/projects/P1000210.jpg
^^^^ LOL gotta love gf's idea of a screw driver. I asked her to go buy me one of those ones that you can change from flathead to phillips that were magnetic and she brought home what I have dubbed teh "HippyDriver" thats a registered trademark btw, you cant use it without my permission

[disruptfam]

looking good more updates please

[Baleful]

Looking good man. Keep us updated also on how that 680i works out for you. I've gone through 5, and i'm on my 6th RMA now. I think i've found the problem though, it appears everytime punkbuster service runs it wants to crap out on me... guess that means no more BF2. Lol sorry for the hijack, anyways it looks good man! More pics!

[kinghong1970]

love your Hippy Driver (TM) but one question tho... sure you'd want magnetic?

[warbux]

Thanks guys, I will be posting lots more pics soon.


Baleful;2592377']Looking good man. Keep us updated also on how that 680i works out for you. I've gone through 5, and i'm on my 6th RMA now. I think i've found the problem though, it appears everytime punkbuster service runs it wants to crap out on me... guess that means no more BF2. Lol sorry for the hijack, anyways it looks good man! More pics!

I had a problem with PB too man, are you using xp or vista? If your using xp do a dual boot to vista and it will fix the problem. It has something to do with that pnkbstrb I believe.


love your Hippy Driver (TM) but one question tho... sure you'd want magnetic?

Yea, magnetics the only way to go, until you get to your HDD anyway. Way to many screws and its to easy to drop em in the case. Only part a magnet might cause trouble with is your hdd platters. Honestly even then its very hard to damage unless your using a strong magnet.

[desertstalker]

There is absolutely no way a magnetic screwdriver is going to damage anything inside a computer. The field is just not strong enough and dies off too fast.

[RickCain]

what's up with the floppy drive?

[Nate P.]

what's up with the floppy drive?
BIOS flashing.;)

[Xilikon]

BIOS flashing.;)

Yeah but it break the overall look. I removed mine and I will plug it only if needed and I also have a usb floppy drive as well for the rare cases.

IMHO, floppy drives should be already dead by now...

[Nate P.]

Yeah but it break the overall look. I removed mine and I will plug it only if needed and I also have a usb floppy drive as well for the rare cases.

IMHO, floppy drives should be already dead by now...
I don't think so. While the technology is way outdated, I still use mine for Active@ Killdisk (http://www.killdisk.com/) jobs and BIOS flashing. I could never get the bootable USB thing to work and Windows flashing is an absolute mess, so a floppy is the only alternative.

I agree that it looks a little out of place, but he could have gotten a black one that would have gone nicely with his case.:yepp:

[AlphaChicken]

I don't think so. While the technology is way outdated, I still use mine for Active@ Killdisk (http://www.killdisk.com/) jobs and BIOS flashing. I could never get the bootable USB thing to work and Windows flashing is an absolute mess, so a floppy is the only alternative.

I agree that it looks a little out of place, but he could have gotten a black one that would have gone nicely with his case.:yepp:

also used for setting up the raid drivers you need when installing windows on a RAID array. its a must have. I have mine sitting under a HDD and use it just by opening the side of the case since im usually working with the case open during setup anyway.

[warbux]

I don't think so. While the technology is way outdated, I still use mine for Active@ Killdisk (http://www.killdisk.com/) jobs and BIOS flashing. I could never get the bootable USB thing to work and Windows flashing is an absolute mess, so a floppy is the only alternative.

I agree that it looks a little out of place, but he could have gotten a black one that would have gone nicely with his case.:yepp:


hahah its my generic floppy. I wont keep it installed very long. I just want to set up RAID, and flash the bios. No point in buying a new one when your just going to take it out as soon as the build is done.

going to add more pics today, had to do a lot of electrical work because everything is going to be controled by remote.

[warbux]

A few more updates, can anyone who has used the flex XLC ram watercooled if there 1/4th inch tubing have bubbles in it, even while the rest of the tubing is normal?


1st 2nd and 3rd loop on mobo outiside of case. kinda trying to figure out best cable placement. What do you guys think?
I am running the following on the loops. loop 1 is 2 fuzion gfx blocks and a pa 102.3 loop 2 is nb/sb/ram/voltage regulators on a pa 102.2 then the third loop is a fuzion cpu w nozzle with a pa 102.1 they all are using the best pumps I could find. those ddt02s with the better top. 22 foot head pressure. I did the math im getting close to 2gpm with both of those blocks on the 102.3 and 2 gfx blocks so I think thats pretty good. I am debating on adding another 120mm radiator for the cpu loop. I dont know how well a 102.1 will work on just the cpu. Any input would be welcome.
http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q4/davidjcox/projects/P1000213.jpg
http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q4/davidjcox/projects/P1000212.jpg
http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q4/davidjcox/projects/P1000211.jpg
http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q4/davidjcox/projects/P1000214.jpg

fill ports
http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q4/davidjcox/projects/P1000218.jpg

flow testing 2nd loop
why does these 1/4th inch tubes have little air bubbles in them?
http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q4/davidjcox/projects/P1000216.jpg
http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q4/davidjcox/projects/P1000217.jpg


http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q4/davidjcox/projects/P1000215.jpg

[Nate P.]

Holy :banana::banana::banana::banana:, so I see two Fuzion GFX blocks in that loop?! That's a pump killer right there...:shakes:

[warbux]

Holy :banana::banana::banana::banana:, so I see two Fuzion GFX blocks in that loop?! That's a pump killer right there...:shakes:

ooops posted wrong pic that is the pic with all three loops on mobo lol. Ya that would destroy flow. I am running that on its own loop my system now goes like this. loop 1 is 2 fuzion gfx blocks a pa 102.3 loop 2 is nb/sb/ram/voltage regulators on a pa 102.2 then the third loop is a fuzion cpu on a pa 102.1 they all are using the best pumps I could find. those ddt02s with the better top. 22 foot head pressure. I did the math im getting close to 2gpm with both of those blocks on the 102.3 and 2 gfx blocks. I am debating on adding another 120mm radiator for the cpu loop. I dont know how well a 102.1 will work on just the cpu.

[MegadetHCl]

I think you have the persistent bubbles in the 1/4" ID tubing for RAM cooling is because the vast majority of the water flow takes the direct route through the large 1/2" ID opening of the F fitting, instead of going through 4 waterblocks connected by small 1/4" tubing. Maybe if you replace the straight segment of tubing between two F fittings with one of the waterblocks, you will introduce restriction to the 1/2" ID opening of the F fitting, thus diverting some flow to the 1/4" ID opening of the same F fitting.

[MorGo7h]

Wich dye is that?

[AliG]

holy :banana::banana::banana::banana:! is there anything you didn't wc?

[nullface]

pa 102.3? Tihi :P - PA120.2 or 120.3?

[Polizei]

Bubbles because the RAM has much higher restriction than the 1/2 inch tube going from F to F. What you should do is put a block in parallel with the RAM, like:

F split > RAM in 1/4" and chipset in 1/2" > F split

Simply, dont connect the F's with a straight piece of tube, gotta put something in there. Putting another block there will force more water to flow through the ram.

[Forsaken1]

:up:

[MonkeyHood]

Is it just me? Or does it look like the video cards are bing pushed apart? Perhaps some longer tubing?

http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q4/davidjcox/projects/P1000211.jpg

[Polizei]

I noticed that too.

As soon as he screws them into the case, they should be fine, as long as the blocks are secured to the card well.

[sladesurfer]

i say switch with 7/16 tubing or 3/8 for a cleaner look. No performance hit with those size

[warbux]

i say switch with 7/16 tubing or 3/8 for a cleaner look. No performance hit with those size

Yea except cost, I have all this good tygon tube laying around so I am using it loll


Is it just me? Or does it look like the video cards are bing pushed apart? Perhaps some longer tubing?

http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q4/davidjcox/projects/P1000211.jpg

yea they are, its because there not seated into anything. today when I mounted it all everything fit perfectly.


Bubbles because the RAM has much higher restriction than the 1/2 inch tube going from F to F. What you should do is put a block in parallel with the RAM, like:

F split > RAM in 1/4" and chipset in 1/2" > F split

Simply, dont connect the F's with a straight piece of tube, gotta put something in there. Putting another block there will force more water to flow through the ram.

Thanks m8 I will try that and see if that fixes the problem. will post pics of my findings tomorrow.



holy :banana::banana::banana::banana:! is there anything you didn't wc?

nah lol not really, running 3 loops.


pa 102.3? Tihi :P - PA120.2 or 120.3?

sorry its pa 120.3 120.2 and 120.1 are my radiators, however thinking about using the 120.2 and 120.1 on another pc of mine and buying new rads to finish this one. Those thermochill rads are pretty damn big.


Wich dye is that?

That is my uber secret blend. it glows a dark purple under UV light. If you want to know exact formula PM me, it is a combination of a few different things. Just wait till you see it under a cold cathode light. It looks great!


I think you have the persistent bubbles in the 1/4" ID tubing for RAM cooling is because the vast majority of the water flow takes the direct route through the large 1/2" ID opening of the F fitting, instead of going through 4 waterblocks connected by small 1/4" tubing. Maybe if you replace the straight segment of tubing between two F fittings with one of the waterblocks, you will introduce restriction to the 1/2" ID opening of the F fitting, thus diverting some flow to the 1/4" ID opening of the same F fitting.

thx man, im going to test this and post some results on my findings tomorrow.


I also got all the remotes hooked up today, now I can turn on and off all my lights with 1 keychain button and can turn on PC with another button on my key chain. its pretty cool.


thanks for all the good feedback. Will get lots more pics up tomorrow.

[Xilikon]

Why don't you put the CPU loop on the PA120.2 and the chipset/ram/mosfet on the PA120.1 ? The small chipsets/ram/mosfet doesn't generate over 100w combined while the cpu can go up to 200-250w if oveclocked.

[warbux]

Why don't you put the CPU loop on the PA120.2 and the chipset/ram/mosfet on the PA120.1 ? The small chipsets/ram/mosfet doesn't generate over 100w combined while the cpu can go up to 200-250w if oveclocked.

Yea I could do that, however because I plan on changing from a PA 120.2 to a swiftech mcr220 I am going to keep the CPU cooled by the PA 120.1 tests have shown that 1 PA 120.1 cools better then the swiftech mcr220.

[warbux]

Well now that I got my new radiator, and two mcw60's instead of the fuzions and, so now I can start working on project HydroHaze 2.0 again. Hopefully it will be finished by the time web 2.0 really takes off! :p: :p: :p:

http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q4/davidjcox/projects/P1000221.jpg

That's a lot of tubes, there's hoses everywhere! I know Elbows are not the greatest for the loop, but it looks so much better then with crazy bends all over the place!

http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q4/davidjcox/projects/P1000222.jpg here you can see the light wiring I have 8 UV ccfl's all connected to a key chain remote. I must say making room for all the lights have been a pain.

http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q4/davidjcox/projects/P1000223.jpg
I also bought a new reservoir. I like these ones much better. It looks a bit off but its level lol.

http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q4/davidjcox/projects/P1000224.jpg More wires and lights.

http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q4/davidjcox/projects/P1000225.jpg here you can see my 102.3 in a double push config. My tests have shown that this is the best way to use two fans on this radiator.

http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q4/davidjcox/projects/P1000226.jpg

Well I will be leak testing one loop tonight. Will update project more tomorrow.

btw is anyone else really pissed that Nvidia is now releasing the 780i before they have the 680i working right? I just looked at the pics and damn there is a lot of wires hanging around lol...

[Nate P.]

Nice call on the Micro-Res'.

[pattherat111]

subscribed
i want to see how this turns out

im in the procces of desgining a 3x radiator case

[Jedda]

Fusion is the wrong way round it appears.
Outlet is supposed to be higher than central inlet. Otherwise an air pocket can occur says D-tek.

[septim]

other than that(fuzion issue), the rest looks good...

[warbux]

Fusion is the wrong way round it appears.
Outlet is supposed to be higher than central inlet. Otherwise an air pocket can occur says D-tek.


other than that(fuzion issue), the rest looks good...

are you guys serious? Can someone link me to where it says that. I have always had my fuzion like this and its seemed to work well. Does it always happen, and is there anyway to tell. Will the temps go way up or something? I dont have anymore MX 2 left. Just AS-5 so I dont wanna have to take it apart unless I need to.

I found where it says how to mount it so I dont need the link.

[Fujimitsu]

are you guys serious? Can someone link me to where it says that. I have always had my fuzion like this and its seemed to work well. Does it always happen, and is there anyway to tell. Will the temps go way up or something? I dont have anymore MX 2 left. Just AS-5 so I dont wanna have to take it apart unless I need to.

Sorry if this is a stupid answer, but turn it so that the outlet is up and see if a buble comes out. I can see it happening, although rarely.

[warbux]

Sorry if this is a stupid answer, but turn it so that the outlet is up and see if a buble comes out. I can see it happening, although rarely.

yea thats what I planned on doing, however if it is going to happen all the time and like in middle of use then I will take it apart and flip it around.

[Fujimitsu]

yea thats what I planned on doing, however if it is going to happen all the time and like in middle of use then I will take it apart and flip it around.

If you've bled all the air out then it shouldn't. If you bled the system properly before, the only air left should be whatever's caught in the block (if that's any). If you remove that air, it should be totally sealed, unless for some reason the air in the res is getting sucked down into the loop.

[warbux]

Well I am leak testing both loops now, I have it laid out the way I want it. I need to buy a smaller T for the 2nd loop. You can see in the picture how the fill line is kinda off kilter. I will fix this soon as I have some time to order another T.

http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q4/davidjcox/projects/P1000227.jpg


http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q4/davidjcox/projects/P1000228.jpg
this is the back of the project.

http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q4/davidjcox/projects/P1000229.jpg

here I am leak testing. Everything seems clear. going to start working on air bubbles and finish leak testing

http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q4/davidjcox/projects/P1000230.jpg

the front looks pretty clean so far.

http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q4/davidjcox/projects/P1000231.jpg

here is a better shot. Anyone have any advice with color? Like what brand/colors show up the best, which don't work very well, ect ect..

I was toying with the idea of going blue and purple, blue and red, or blue and orange. So far I have heard good things about the D-Tek dyes. what do y'all think?

[Jedda]

Don't like strong colours myself.
Keep an eye on your t-line liquid heights they can drop a few inches over the first day's running. Yours seem a bit low in the pic.

[septim]

yes we told him that. he should check the galleries...

with most 2 barb blocks (with middle as inlet) should have top of inlet barb as outlet this to prevent air bubble being stuck inside waterblock.

[Waterlogged]

Maybe I missed this somewhere along the way but, why do you have T-lines feeding into the reservoirs? Why not just use the res the way it was meant to be used (remove cap, pour in water) or have the fillport hooked up to the top of the res? To me, the way you have it just doesn't make any sense. http://smilies.vidahost.com/ups/sicdeth/headscratch.gif :hm:

[AndrewZorn]

Just to have the conveniences of a reservoir and a fillport, I suppose...

[Waterlogged]

Just to have the conveniences of a reservoir and a fillport, I suppose...

Even then, he could have routed the fillport to the top hole on the res. I'm not positive but, it looks like both of the res's have been tapped for G1/4" so a barb should fit there without any problem what so ever.

[Jedda]

Even then, he could have routed the fillport to the top hole on the res. I'm not positive but, it looks like both of the res's have been tapped for G1/4" so a barb should fit there without any problem what so ever.

Its the logical thing to do.

[warbux]

here are the finished (broken) project. I am going to upgrade to the 780i mobo. These 680i's are junk.

http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q4/davidjcox/projects/P1000233.jpg

http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q4/davidjcox/projects/P1000234.jpg

http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q4/davidjcox/projects/P1000235.jpg
I am waiting for my black drive bay cover, floppy bezel, and fan covers to come in still.

http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q4/davidjcox/projects/P1000236.jpg you can see the push/push config here.

http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q4/davidjcox/projects/P1000237.jpg

http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q4/davidjcox/projects/P1000238.jpg

http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q4/davidjcox/projects/P1000239.jpg



Even then, he could have routed the fillport to the top hole on the res. I'm not positive but, it looks like both of the res's have been tapped for G1/4" so a barb should fit there without any problem what so ever.

its not a g1/4" trust me I would have much rather done it that way, I was thinking about re tapping it but I'm not sure if it will crack it or not. I have never tried to tap plexiglass, but the stuff scratches so easy, and cracks when you drill holes in it.

as for the block being upside down, I made sure it did not have any air bubbles in it. However it doesn't really matter because the motherboard is dead. It posts with one long beep then reboots. So when I rebuild it I will put the block the right way. Only reason it was upside down is cuz it used a bit less hose. lol

If anyone else has had an evga A1 680i board that knows a bit about them I got a question. I get 1 long beep in the bios, and the led codes leads me to believe that it is trying to boot up. It does not stop at a specific code. Sometimes it stops at C1 sometimes 6F and other times a few other codes. I have tried RAM that I knows work with the board, I have re-seated the processor, and a few other things. All to no avail. This is the 3rd 680i board I have had problems with. I am seriously thinking of moving to the 780i.

[Nate P.]

Wire management man. Other than that, looks like it's going well. :)

[jimmyz]

also used for setting up the raid drivers you need when installing windows on a RAID array. its a must have. I have mine sitting under a HDD and use it just by opening the side of the case since im usually working with the case open during setup anyway.

that is my solution sort of i mount mine backwards inside the case in a regular 3.5 bay so i can access it by taking off the side but it is not visible from the outside of the case. btw you can flash bios with a usb drive.

[warbux]

Wire management man. Other than that, looks like it's going well. :)


hahah thanks man, funny thing is that was what I consider wire management. Well the front was anyway. The back is where I hid all the wires. I think I need to tighten it up when I rebuild it.

[Waterlogged]

its not a g1/4" trust me I would have much rather done it that way, I was thinking about re tapping it but I'm not sure if it will crack it or not. I have never tried to tap plexiglass, but the stuff scratches so easy, and cracks when you drill holes in it.

Ah OK, It must be the light playing tricks then, because it looks like you've got metal caps for the fill holes.

It can very easily be tapped without drilling, I've done 2 myself. :yepp:

[septim]

780i mobo so soon? experiment on it yourself, or let others find out about bugs and save you some hassle...

[warbux]

Ah OK, It must be the light playing tricks then, because it looks like you've got metal caps for the fill holes.

It can very easily be tapped without drilling, I've done 2 myself. :yepp:

How did you go about tapping it? What did you use, I totally want to get rid of the T. Let me know.


780i mobo so soon? experiment on it yourself, or let others find out about bugs and save you some hassle...

Yea I think I am going to go ahead and get it. I will obviously post my test results.

[Waterlogged]

I have a tap left over from my machinist days. You can get one from Mcmaster for $17.15. Copy/paste "8328A22" into the search bar.

[Manicdan]

it looks like your using zerex super coolant, i would ditch that and get some other stuff, anything else will be better cause when i used it, i had to deal with the foaming, the staining of tubes, and the fact it ate through every glue i could find when i made the reservoir

[lazy]

maybe i missed it somewhere but are the fans for the PA120.3 stacked to each other?

[Daemonfly]

Sure looks like it. O_o

[warbux]

I have a tap left over from my machinist days. You can get one from Mcmaster for $17.15. Copy/paste "8328A22" into the search bar.

Thanks man, I am going to order one. It will be nice to get rid of that T.


it looks like your using zerex super coolant, i would ditch that and get some other stuff, anything else will be better cause when i used it, i had to deal with the foaming, the staining of tubes, and the fact it ate through every glue i could find when i made the reservoir

actually that's for a different comp. I am not using any kind of corrosion inhibitor on this build.


maybe i missed it somewhere but are the fans for the PA120.3 stacked to each other?
Yes they are. Merry Christmas all