Advice on taking computer pics...

[shazza]

I'm having some trouble getting good pictures of my new build ... particularly of the front with the blazing LEDs on the fan controller. Have tried different ISO settings, "night portrait" mode, and more. I'm using a tripod, so low light shots seem to work okay. Any advice or tricks of the trade?

Here's a sample of what's driving me crazy:


http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y124/shazzasmd/mmfrontuv.jpg

[Vapor]

Not really a problem with the camera, but the scene has too much dynamic range. Those LEDs are the equivalent of taking a pic of a tree with the sun right behind it and expecting to get leaf detail. You can do it, but it means the sun is going to burn the rest of the picture. i.e., in order to get the 'good stuff' exposed properly, your LEDs are getting overexposed and looking like that.

If you can, decrease the amount of time the shutter is open. Everything will be less exposed, but at least the LEDs won't kill the picture and maybe you can do some crafty photo editing to combine the various exposures :)

[Soulburner]

I really don't think you want less exposure here, you probably wouldn't even recognize what you are looking at.

HDR may be worth a try - can your camera do bracketing? If not, take 1 picture underexposed, one in the middle, and one overexposed. You'll need Photomatix to combine them though...

[shazza]

Thanks guys. Yeah ... I can do bracketing, so may give that a try. I know I also need to work on depth of field.

I'm using a Panasonic Lumix FZ-50. May try my husbands' Canon 5D tomorrow.

[shazza]

A quick try with the Canon 5D (no flash, day time) ... this is better (ignoring the reflections). Will have to keep learning:

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y124/shazzasmd/mmcamtest.jpg

[disruptfam]

yeah i wanna took good pic's of my new pc need a decent camera though...

is the cannon s3 good??? for mainly close up pic's of computers and hardware (will be used as a everyday camera aswell) i know next to nothing about camera :(

[shazza]

The Canon S3 is good ... probably similar to my Panasonic FZ-50 (It's about a $300-400 camera).

The difference between my Panasonic and my husband's Canon 5D (cost about 5-6 times as much), is pretty significant when taking close ups of stuff like computers. Much easier to get good depth of field, and much less noise in the pics.

The difference for normal shots is not nearly as dramatic (to the casual user, like me).

[disruptfam]

I'm getting the s3 this week!! can't wait!!!

[Fujimitsu]

I'm getting the s3 this week!! can't wait!!!

It's a solid cam, good choice.

[Cpl Ledanek]

same technique with Soulburner:

Have you worked with Photoshop or Gimp (http://www.gimp.org/downloads/)...
You need to take 5-6 pics of the same distance, same room lighting, same everything...the changes you have to make are your ISO level in your camera.

Start at 200 and work your way up to maybe 600.

Layer them in Photoshop/Gimp and start removing the area you don't want and it should give you the proper lighting/exposure you want to show.

Try this tutorial (http://www.vanilladays.com/hdr-guide/).
Good luck and let us know what happens:up:

[weihk]

tripod
manual focus
from .5sec - 1.5sec shutter speed
point dim light from side/front/under object
set flash to 'back light' or 'Rear', which ever one its named
set flash to +2/3EV - +1EV
ISO200-600

depending on equipdments, point flash gun at roof/walls to bounce light back at object

test till happy

[shazza]

Thanks, Cpl Ledanek and weihk ... that's the kind of advice I was looking for. I've been doing something similar but in a rather haphazard way, so I'll concentrate on your suggestions.

I have just started using photoshop with layers, so this will be a fun project too. Unfortunately, I'm traveling for the next few weeks, but will read up and be ready to shoot when I return home!

[Fujimitsu]

Thanks, Cpl Ledanek and weihk ... that's the kind of advice I was looking for. I've been doing something similar but in a rather haphazard way, so I'll concentrate on your suggestions.

I have just started using photoshop with layers, so this will be a fun project too. Unfortunately, I'm traveling for the next few weeks, but will read up and be ready to shoot when I return home!

Photoshop is so powerful.... It's a lot of fun once you get into it.

Follow the tutorial he linked, HDR can create some really amazing photos... has a lot of use outside of PC shots.

[Cpl Ledanek]

Thanks, Cpl Ledanek and weihk ... that's the kind of advice I was looking for. I've been doing something similar but in a rather haphazard way, so I'll concentrate on your suggestions.

I have just started using photoshop with layers, so this will be a fun project too. Unfortunately, I'm traveling for the next few weeks, but will read up and be ready to shoot when I return home!

Looking forward to it:up:

[smee]

Come on shazzam we want some final pics!!!!!!
Please? :up:

[MaxxxRacer]

dont adjust your ISO. Use the 5D and keep it at the lowest ISO (50). While the 5D is quite amazing with high ISO, you're better off keeping the ISO as low as possible when doing night shots to keep noise to a minimum.

As others mentioned, take a few shots at different exposure times. For the longer exposure shots, turn off the LED's on the sunbeam fan controller (either unplug them [yes you can do that] or just turn off the fans). Turning off the LED's for the long exposure shots will make it so that you dont get the nasty glare.

When you overlay the photos (have never done it myself, but I know the technique), place the short exposure with the LED's on, over the photo where everything else is exposed properly.

Now you will have the LED's on, but not overly bright, and everything else properly lit as well.

Hopefully that makes sense.

Lastly, if you want more Depth of field, shoot at F11 to F13. Going any further will reduce the sharpness of the photo. For otpitmum sharpness, dont go beyond F8. With F8 you should have more than enough DOF for that photo, so long as the 5D focus' correctly. for more info: http://www.kenrockwell.com/tech/diffraction.htm

EDIT: after doing a little math, you can probably go up to F10 with the D5 due to its large sensor, without loosing any sharpness.