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View Full Version : Ready to connect my first hose, any tips?



Talonman
10-20-2007, 04:03 PM
I am ready to run my first 1/2" Tygon hose from the out of the D-Tek FuZion to the stock fusion block on the mobo.

http://img212.imageshack.us/img212/6834/pic026up3.jpg

Any tricks of the trade I need to know?

Is there an in and out like the D-Tek? On the D-Tek, they wanted the out, higher than the in. On the Fusion, they are even, and unmarked.

Do you ever boil Tygon before you use it? One of my buddies who has been out of the water cooling game for a while, made the comment to me that it used to be done all the time?

Do I need O-rings? Can I use automotive hose clamps for my 1/2" tubing?

Thanks for helping to keep me out of the woods! ;)

Jedda
10-20-2007, 05:20 PM
Gee, they look a different diameter in that pic.

disruptfam
10-20-2007, 05:30 PM
dipping the tip's in warm water help's me....1 thing though i see all you have connection's plugged in.Make sure you unplug all the power connection's...When you jump the psu to get the pump running to fill your loop you don't want you hardware to be on aswell..... ( You probably already knew that) better safe than sorry....

Talonman
10-20-2007, 05:34 PM
The mobo gave me step down's from 1/2" hose, to small enouigh to fit the block, on the stock cooling.

FYI - There are two pre maid holes in the back of my case. The in and out lines will be entering the case from the back. Everything else is external, (pump, rad, and fan's).

The rest is currently being made. I just wanted to get the first connection from the D-tec to the stock Fusion block out of the way. ;)

Then stare at it in wonder and aw....

I guess it is just straight foward then..

Don't boil, forget the O-rings, pop the downsizers on, and get some good hose clamps? :)

Some clamps came with the board too, not sure yet if they have any made for 1/2" line..

No O-rings supplied though, not sure if I even needed them.

The game plan is to have the WaterKegIII's 'IN' line, enter through the top hole of my case I believe? then to the center of the D-Tek, out the top hole to one of the holes in the stock Fusion block. (This is the line that I think I am ready to run now.)

From there to will go the the GPU, when I buy it around Nov. I will probably close the loop to get the OS installed before I add the GPU in.

I am still undecided as I dont know how big of a deal it is to re-open your loop.

I may just wait. I need the new speed king card to come with a water block attached, and to be released in 2007. Then I will be all set.

If I do close the loop, I have an 8600GT to pop in if need be, until the new King cometh.

Talonman
10-20-2007, 05:36 PM
dipping the tip's in warm water help's me....1 thing though i see all you have connection's plugged.Make sure you unplug all the power connection's...When you jump the psu to fill your loop you don't want you hardware to be on aswell..... ( You probably already knew that) better safe than sorry....

Thanks, I think I have some instructions that come with the WaterKegIII Xtreme before firing it up for the first time. It might have been in there...? :)

Thanks for the tips. I will use them.

Mabey I will let my HP Pavilion power the pump, and just let the new rig set unplugged.

By the way, I still need a favorite UV blue reactive fluid too. Any out there that look extra good?

Do I need to hunt down "1 drop of Spectrus (biocide) + 1 drop of Continuum (corrosion inhibitor) + 1.5oz glycerine (raises water's thermal conductivity co-efficient) to a litre of distilled water according to Hound53. If you can't get that, then Zerex at 5%".

I was hoping all that stuff would just be in there pre-mixed, ready to go...

UPDATE: I just read where it is best to go CPU, to GPU, to NB. Mabey I can't run my 1 line yet? I needed to go CPU to NB.

kapster
10-20-2007, 08:23 PM
So, it looks like you need additive. I would suggest Pentosin G11 and PTnuke as your algae killer. The G11 Petra sells is UV reactive, but I dont know how good it actually is as far as a dye.

You can get both at petras.

Also, you got a nice clean system there.

.Logic
10-20-2007, 08:42 PM
So, it looks like you need additive. I would suggest Pentosin G11 and PTnuke as your algae killer. The G11 Petra sells is UV reactive, but I dont know how good it actually is as far as a dye.

You can get both at petras.

Also, you got a nice clean system there.

+1

Distilled water with 5% - 10% MAX Pentosin G11 UV and 2-3 drops PTnuke (if colour isn't important I would suggest running straight distilled with 2-3 drops PTnuke as that will give you the best temps)

Digital Nirvana
10-20-2007, 08:55 PM
why do you have a level on the top of your mobo?

Conumdrum
10-20-2007, 09:10 PM
I heard leveling the mobo reduces electron droop, which will cause latency timing to always be one step off?

afireinside
10-20-2007, 10:02 PM
I heard leveling the mobo reduces electron droop, which will cause latency timing to always be one step off?

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a1/wiretap25/Misc/wired_hd.jpg

:up:

disruptfam
10-20-2007, 11:18 PM
lol

Talonman
10-21-2007, 01:22 AM
I heard leveling the mobo reduces electron droop, which will cause latency timing to always be one step off?

Correct. We must have found the same article... ;)


Also, you got a nice clean system there.

Thanks, more pict's here if you care to look.

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=160606

Talonman
10-21-2007, 05:17 AM
I just looked at the latest additions to the Water cooled gallery.

Some boys are running their line from the CPU to NB to GPU, not as water cooling 101 stickey recomends, CPU to GPU to NB.

Is this a big deal, should I run CPU to NB to GPU too?

Other than taking all blocks back off to test for leaks, can I cutt and connect my line from the D-Tek to the stock Fusion NB block?

afireinside
10-21-2007, 05:40 AM
I just looked at the latest additions to the Water cooled gallery.

Some boys are running their line from the CPU to NB to GPU, not as water cooling 101 stickey recomends, CPU to GPU to NB.

Is this a big deal, should I run CPU to NB to GPU too?

Other than taking all blocks back off to test for leaks, can I cutt and connect my line from the D-Tek to the stock Fusion NB block?

It doesn't matter, though in theory if you run CPU>GPU>NB the water hitting the GPU might be marginally cooler because the NB hasn't dumped heat into it yet. The main reason to run CPU>GPU>NB is that GPU>NB is often an easier bend to make than CPU>NB.

shazza
10-21-2007, 05:54 AM
From all the reading I've done, the loop order really doesn't make much difference. The water comes to temp equilibrium fairly rapidly, so you're unlikely to see any real performance hits because of loop order (assuming good flow through everything).

Talonman
10-21-2007, 05:54 AM
Thanks for the reply.

Sounds like not a big deal then, especially if you count in how little heat my NB block will probably add. Due to it being just an empty block with no fins in it, probably won't be raising the temp a hole bunch...

On the up side, it probably won't be as big of a flow restrictor, as a high end block with lots of fins.

The reason I would like to go CPU to NB is it would give me the ability to run my system, withought adding the GPU in the loop yet.

I could get the raptors raided up, and the OS installed.

Then when my GPU is released, I could add that in too....

shazza
10-21-2007, 06:03 AM
I say go ahead and get started. Chances are, you'll be tearing your loop down once or twice anyway, so not too big a deal to cut new tubing even if you decide to change the loop order.

Talonman
10-21-2007, 09:40 AM
Thanks for all the advice....

Petra's just received more business from me:

(1) UV Reactive Pentosin G11 Coolant Additive (Blue) - 4oz.

(1) Petra'sTech "PT_Nuke" Concentrated Biocide (10mL)

(10) 3/8" ID (5/8" OD) Masterkleer General Purpose Clear PVC Tubing

(4) Stainless Steel Worm-Drive Hose Clamp

(4) Stainless Steel Worm-Drive Hose Clamp (Wide Band w/Liner)

(6) Stainless Steel Worm-Drive Hose Clamp (Wide Band)

I was not sure what clamps were best, so I ordered a few different ones. ;)