P5k Heat Pipe Mod for water cooling

[spersky]

Some of my hardware is starting to trickle in, and I decided to see if I could use my MCW30 in conjunction with the P5k3 heat pipe.

Here are some pictures. This is a very simple mod that only took about 30 minutes. Please tell me what you think.

After peeling the little AI sticker off the SB you get the first picture. Then I applied the MCW30 to the SB leaving the entire heatpipe intact. By the way, the copper under the sticker is pretty smooth, and looks like a pretty good surface for applying the MCW30.

The third picture is a close up of the MCW30 on the SB heatpipe heat sink. The spacers that came with the MCW30 raising kit was very helpful in esablishing the correct spacing.

I hope it works. Comments are welcome.

Regards

[Patriote]

LOL Excuse me but what are you trying\thinking of achieving here ? Do you think that this will help dissipate the heat from the NB and all other components that have the heatsink on ?

Do you plan on watercooling only the SB ?

I am really interested in earing what you plan to do with this LOL :D

[k0nsl]

Very interesting. I might try this myself as I've just ordered a P5k Deluxe.

Do you have before & after measurements of temperatures, or are you still waiting for more hardware to arrive?

[spersky]

LOL Excuse me but what are you trying\thinking of achieving here ? Do you think that this will help dissipate the heat from the NB and all other components that have the heatsink on ?

Do you plan on watercooling only the SB ?

I am really interested in earing what you plan to do with this LOL :D

Obviously, The heat will conduct all through the heatpipe, and theoretically cool the entire chipset and the vregs. The NB,SB, and the vregs. My only assumption is that the heatpipe should be a pretty good heat conductor.

I have no data yet on this Mod. Still waiting for more hardware.

In addition, I dont have to add 2 water blocks and 2 aftermarket heatsinks if I want to water cool the P5k. Furthermore, I wont void the warranty. I just to put the sticker back on the SB if I need warranty work.

[Patriote]

I really doubt that all the heat would go right into the SB and even if it would to go there, would that MCW30 be able to dissipate all that heat ?

Let's see what others have to say ...

[spersky]

Furthermore, you still get the added advantage of the heatsinks on the NB and the VRegs. It probably is not as good as cooling each individual components with waterblocks, but it seem like a good idea.

[Cupcake]

That is great :D

I know it wont be the best but it may help a little

I know that stacking ramsinks on my southbridge on the A8N32 SLI Deluxe lowered my northbridge temps ~ 5c

[GrimReaperGuy]

Lol cool. You really want to lap the top of that SB sink, they're not exactly flat.

[spersky]

Lol cool. You really want to lap the top of that SB sink, they're not exactly flat.

How should I lap it? I have never lapped anything before. I imagine it would be pretty difficult to lap it while it is on the motherboard, and I really hate having to back out all the push pins from the back side of the motherboard to get the whole heatpipe off.

[migueld]

Hey can you run it with and without the block? I guess the only way to know its effectiveness is to compare it both ways. I really like the idea BTW.

[GrimReaperGuy]

You really need to remove the entire heatpipe apparatus from the motherboard to lap it. There's a total of eight push-pins, what's the problem? It will take less time than mounting the MCW30.

[higgins]

cool idea man. will be fun to see some results :)

[Ad1tya]

Post some temp's of a With and Without MCW30 scenario :).

[justin_c]

maybe having more surface area could dissapate more heat, but i doubt it, since your going from chipset<poor tim<not lapped copper<tim<block. way too much is in the way, i can make an assumption that it would be worse with the hunk of copper inbetween.

[kevinbo03]

It's an odd idea, But I'm looking at it this way:

One MCW30 to lower the NB, SB and Mosfet chips (By even a small amout).

Not bad. Compare that $30 to the $100 it takes for a second MCW30 and some Thermalright HR07's.

VERY unusual, But very simple and practical.

[hollo]

SB, NB, and 2 sets of mosfets all in one shot! i think its a great idea :D
i'd even go so far as to suggest a small (20-30mm square?) peltier powered straight from your PSU under the waterblock (maybe with a small slice of copper on either side if needed) to knock another degree or two off the entire heatpipe circuit could be worthwhile. asus has handed it to you on a plate :up:

[spersky]

I am lapping the heatpipe today and going to put new ceramique when I re-apply the heatpipe

[bro20000]

nice idea!

[moab]

awesome idea. I've been looking for an easy way to cool my SB withough fans for a while. I never thought of this though.

[Jedda]

I am lapping the heatpipe today and going to put new ceramique when I re-apply the heatpipe

The ceramique on SPP and MCP instead of the putty will help. Take your time before refitting to align every block well. It's easy to bend slightly the heat pipe while handling.
I used a pane of glass to get mine all square and parallel with each other. It made a difference, 'though eventually I put separate blocks on everything.

[spersky]

Jedda,

You have already used this method? Now you have water blocks on everything?

[jkresh]

spersky any updates on this?

[teko]

Turn it upside down, then the heat should run to the SB..

[matt1]

Would love to see some results before and after

[sergers]

nice idea... but is their any point in cooling the southbridge?

[ZoFo]

Don't pay any attention to those that laughed at you, they are simple minded conformist afraid to go against the flow!:D

That is thinking outside the box and is what makes this hobby fun - where is the challange in only following what has already been done? Hell I just finished a 7-block "hybrid dual-loop" (one 7/8" & one 1/4" :eek: )with two 120 Rads and a single pump for a HTPC; certianly not a setup you would likely see here but it was a blast and a challange to build and fit inside a mid-tower case and works great for my intended purpose.

Let us know how it works with & without the waterblock, always though it was a wast to throw away those heatpipes - you might be on to something you never know.

[Spawne32]

Now now, this is not so crazy as it would seem, i had a similar idea for this myself a few weeks ago, and the overall idea is sound, even if he doesnt carry it out all that well, water can only extract so much heat at once, the idea of using heatpipes and fins combined with the air cooling can improve temps by assisting the cooling process, id like to see some results of this.

[Frank M]

Not a bad idea, but
a) the block and the tubes may be in the way of some bigger vidcards
b) heatpipes work optimally if the heat source is at the bottom and the cooling
is at the top. In this case, it's the other way around; but it looks like there isnt
another mount point this good at the top. It will reduce the temps of the
components of the heatpipe assembly, but there's bigger unused potential in it.

[Jimmer411]

nice idea... but is their any point in cooling the southbridge?



Looks to me like hes trying to cool everything in 1 shot, and the southbridge is the only part of the heatpipe assembly that can accept a waterblock without mod or removal of the whole assembly.

Personally I think its a good Idea. People dont throw this kind of fuss when people put waterblocks on each chip, they usually suggest to just aircool the mossfets and north/south bridges and claim that watercooling them is overkill. But yet when 1 person decides to cool everything with 1 block its suddenly not enough? :shrug: 4-5 components that people claim "dont need to be watercooled" are suddenly too much for 1 waterblock? Wouldnt the radiator and the pump be the limits? Which a 120.2 or 120.3 more than enough for a CPU + This... Hell maybe even a GPU too.

[sick_g4m3r]

cant wait for the results, this looks great!

[Patriote]

Don't pay any attention to those that laughed at you, they are simple minded conformist afraid to go against the flow!:D

Um... Whats that ? :shakes:

I still think there would be some points, that have been mentioned here, that would of needed to be done before mounting the MCW30. Maybe lapping the SB would of been a good idea... Anyway, post some result when you can so we can all see if it was worth! :up:

[Jedda]

Jedda,

You have already used this method? Now you have water blocks on everything?

No, I haven't put a block on top of the MCP heat sink. I have refitted the heat-pipe block assembly with ceramique and improved alignment, but later put blocks on separately.
Good luck, it should help.:up:

[lloydsmart]

This looks really interesting - can't wait to see results. I also agree that it would be well worth removing the crappy TIM that comes with the heatpipe, and putting some ceramique on each chip in there.

[Leeghoofd]

Yep seems nicely done, hope it brings results too and you don't wreck warranty by cutting the heatpipe....

[Mad_Man]

well by removing the cover of sb and lapping the sb block you voided the warranty anyway

[Leeghoofd]

I removed the covers from my old P5W and replaced the thermal pads and I still got the RMA straight from the importer, I think as long as you don't cut them up nothings going on, you don't need to tell them you removed the heatpipe, if they inspect the pins closely they can see you removed it !!

[spersky]

Update,

I have not lapped it yet. I did remove the sticker off the SB, and I can replace it very easily. I need to make sure that my Motherboard is not DOA before I start voiding the warranty. My case will arrive soon, and I should be able to start the assembly.

My one concern is that the NB will not get the cooling that it needs when compared to a single water block on the NB. The heatpipe to the SB is kinda small which could limit the heat transfer/dissapation.

The TIM under those blocks is horrible. I am glad that I removed the heatpipe so I can replace the TIM.

[Frank M]

My one concern is that the NB will not get the cooling that it needs when compared to a single water block on the NB.

As it was supposed to be working passive, without a wb on it, the temps can
only improve, even more so with the changed TIM. It'll be alright :)

[Leeghoofd]

well problem is not the SB nor the NB, it's the PWM area that get's very hot, I have no issues with the heatsink above the CPU as that one is mildy warm but the one next to he CPU on the left gets very very hot...

[lee143]

He really doesn't have any other choice though, unless he pulls the heatpipes all off and buy all of those waterblocks, which would cost a lot more

[spersky]

Ok I lapped the SB sink and re-applied TIM, and I re-mounted the whole setup. Pictures will follow. It is late, and I want to get some sleep. Btw, The video card does fit with a minor 10 sec mod to the MCW30 mounting bracket. It is really starting to come together.

Regards

[TTmodder]

Xtreme creaticity :up: .Maybe using a 80watt Tec element and a coldplate (and hotplate since the waterblock is so small), could reduce the overall temp on mobo :rolleyes: But condensation would be a problem :shrug:

[Jedda]

Not with only 80watt. I've run TEC that rate and you're still going to be a long way from dew point temps.

[ColonelCain]

Ingenious idea. Can't wait to see results! :up:

[spersky]

Thanks for all the responses.

HEre is the lapped heatpipe and the minor mod to the MCW30 mounting bracket so the video card would fit. I basically just cut off the end of the bracket with some heavy duty wire cutters.

[sick_g4m3r]

nice! when could we expect some temps?

[NaeKuh]

throw a 60W TEC on it. :D

[NicePants42]

Turn it upside down, then the heat should run to the SB..22 posts until someone mentions this. :ROTF:

This is an excellent idea, but I completely agree with teko, in that you should install the motherboard in a BTX configuration. I suggest taking temperature measurements in both ATX and BTX setups - the difference might turn out to be pleasantly small. Asus started showing motherboards with this type of setup at Computex. (http://forums.techgage.com/showthread.php?t=1872)

Here's a review of that ASUS motherboard. (http://techgage.com/article/asus_blitz_extreme_formula_motherboards/) The sad part is that the reduced temps didn't allow for higher FSB, however this shouldn't always be the case.

[Leeghoofd]

Well he can test it out, but I think temps won't drop much with the watercooling heatsink, it' an innovative idea but the hottest spots are the PWM's , then the NB and then the SB on this baby...( this felt by hand on the heatsinks )

Well looking forward to some results with and without the watersetup in normal or upside down configuration

[AndyM]

Well he can test it out, but I think temps won't drop much with the watercooling heatsink, it' an innovative idea but the hottest spots are the PWM's , then the NB and then the SB on this baby...( this felt by hand on the heatsinks )


Feel the top heatsink...I'd venture to guess that the heatpipe mosfet portion is equally sucky in regards to heat transfer due to the lame stock mounting. I'd say the NB is the main source of heat on this contraption, followed by the SB (which doesnt put much heat out anyway with the plastic encapsulation), then the mosfets (if any at all, I'd say maybe ~3% heat transfer with the way this cooling solution is set up). My take on this...put the WB on the NB, dump the heatpipe and put some heatsinks on the SB and mosfets (or mosfet blocks should you be inclined to cool those better, bare air cooling works also on those however).