TJ07 + PA120.3 + PA120.2 = Photos of my version of this.

[AndyM]

Latest Edit

Welcome to a somewhat scattered build log. The end result is a TJ07 with a 120.3, 120.2, and a 120.1. Here's a couple photos of the latest variation of this machine.

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j186/amichalski00/single_install081.jpg
http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j186/amichalski00/single_install086.jpg

And following is the log. You can see various versions of this build, various hardware changes, and other misc. stuff.

Enjoy!
-----------------------------------




Here's a little build log of my new TJ07 with Thermochill PA120.3 and PA120.2 radiators stuffed in the bottom. It was time to move onto an overkill cooling solution as my 3x BIP.1 P180 was showing its limitations, especially with my desire to leave the fans at 7 volts, and my turning up the speed of my computer. Basically as that machine was, 3.6 GHz was the limit with the fans at 7 Volts, it could do 3.8 GHz, but the fans would need to be at 12 Volts, and the side panel off for Orthos stable running. And it was running kinda hot that way too. The water temperature was quite warm. So, what to do when needing more cooling to eek out that last few couple hundred Mhz for better internet surfing? Drop around $800 or so worth of new case and cooling to replace a perfectly functional case and cooling solution! :rolleyes:

And on to the build:

Stripping down the case, I randomly drilled 4 holes in the bottom of the case. They are the bigger white spots...

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j186/amichalski00/TJ07build038.jpg

I then used some 3/4" Nylon barstock to make some footings for the radiators. This way in the end the fans will align perfectly with the vented side panel openings of the case. Nice and solid footings, but a pain to cut as your average jigsaw has a habit of melting the material when cutting it, so you have to go slow.

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j186/amichalski00/TJ07build039.jpg

Add a couple fans and a hunk of hose... Note the ziptie anchor on the hose. I figure it will keep the hose away from the side panel tabs on the odd chance they become razor sharp and decide to do some slashing.

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j186/amichalski00/TJ07build043.jpg

The next part to toss in the case is the PA120.2. Note the seemingly random timing of the BSPP 90 degree elbows I got from McMaster Carr. There is more to that than meets the eye.

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j186/amichalski00/TJ07build044.jpg

Here we have an elbow and barb fitting as delivered on the left, and a shortened version on the right. On my PA120.2, I shortened both of them for 2 reasons. 1st was to get more clearance between the radiators for easier assembly. The 2nd was so that I could time the position of the fittings on the radiator and be able to apply sufficient torque on them so they didnt get loose for whatever reason. Instead of using o rings, Permatex Ultra Black RTV Silicone was used for thread sealing.

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j186/amichalski00/TJ07build003.jpg

Bolt down another radiator, stick some more fans on, a bit more tubing and a D5 pump and you get this:

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j186/amichalski00/TJ07build057.jpg

Pretty good clearance now!

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j186/amichalski00/TJ07build064.jpg

Add some more ziptie anchors to another hunk of hose on the other side...

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j186/amichalski00/TJ07build071.jpg

And cover with some more fans.

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j186/amichalski00/TJ07build072.jpg

And there you have it, nearly full utilization of that roomy TJ07 bottom section for some really good cooling capacity.

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j186/amichalski00/TJ07build075.jpg

Oh yeah, while in there, put a T fitting on that hunk of hose, might come in handy to fill this contraption. Coolsleeves are useful too for preventing kinks.

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j186/amichalski00/TJ07build090.jpg

Youre probably asking..."so where does the hard drive go now?" Uhhh, well, I'll get back to you on that. Just kidding, it goes upstairs now. You could buy a fancy Silverstone 5.25 bay device, or you can use a hard drive casing that comes with the case. I chose the latter route as I wanted the front of the case as clean as possible. First, I borrowed some parts from my P180. These are some silicone bushings from that case's hard drive mounting solution installed in the 5.25 panels of the TJ07...

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j186/amichalski00/TJ07build094.jpg

And this is a screw that is used with those bushings...

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j186/amichalski00/TJ07build107.jpg

I then put some 3/4" long standoffs on the hard drive casing.

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j186/amichalski00/TJ07build103.jpg

Ta Da...a nice floating hard drive mounting area. Should keep hard drive noise and vibes down.

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j186/amichalski00/TJ07build135.jpg

To doll that part up some, I added some black tape to the mounting ears for the fan that goes there.

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j186/amichalski00/TJ07build174.jpg

I figure black fan, black grill, and that black tape makes it look a little more integrated.

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j186/amichalski00/TJ07build183.jpg

While on the black fan grill kick, I also changed the top case fan grills to black ones as well, while reversing the fans so they blow downward. I figure my memory could use a shot of cool outside air for 'active cooling'.

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j186/amichalski00/TJ07build131.jpg

After making sure my fire extinguisher was close at hand, I proceeded to do some wiring. A few highlights include hidden MB wiring and some more of the famous ziptie anchors to route the wires.

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j186/amichalski00/TJ07build153.jpg

And custom length SATA power cable connectors

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j186/amichalski00/TJ07build138.jpg

So things look like this:

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j186/amichalski00/TJ07build140.jpg

And some cables run through nooks and crannies so they dont show. Here I cut the front panel audio and firewire cables off as I dont use onboard audio + my sound card doesnt use those connections, along with I have no idea what uses firewire anymore. Only USB cables here.

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j186/amichalski00/TJ07build168.jpg

The custom hard drive mount wiring looks a 'lil like this:

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j186/amichalski00/TJ07build188.jpg

Speaking of silent computing, it was time to make a fan speed controller. Since I want a nice solid 7.0 volts going to my fans...I made this little jem. First some wires with some connectors:

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j186/amichalski00/TJ07build198.jpg

Those same wires with heatshrink on them, along with another 'doner' wire and connector combo...

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j186/amichalski00/TJ07build203.jpg

Which was used to make this:

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j186/amichalski00/TJ07build207.jpg

And then it was magically transformed into this:

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j186/amichalski00/TJ07build210.jpg

Still awake? You might be able to find my new fan controller stuck onto the back of the computer somewhere. I kept as much wiring out of the radiator area as possible for air flow consideration.

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j186/amichalski00/TJ07build259.jpg

Kind of a tight squeeze, but it seems to have decent enough airflow through here for the end of the PA120.3 on the other side. Also, with the offset between the two radiators, there is not that much radiator back there behind the power supply.

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j186/amichalski00/TJ07build260.jpg

And now a batch of photos of the finished product:

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j186/amichalski00/TJ07build212.jpg

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j186/amichalski00/TJ07build216.jpg

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j186/amichalski00/TJ07build219.jpg

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j186/amichalski00/TJ07build220.jpg

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j186/amichalski00/TJ07build223.jpg

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j186/amichalski00/TJ07build232.jpg

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j186/amichalski00/TJ07build233.jpg

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j186/amichalski00/TJ07build240.jpg

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j186/amichalski00/TJ07build247.jpg


TJ07's are nice when too much cooling is just right, eh? :cool:




Below pics are some changes to the machine beyond the initial build...different MB, more blocks, and other misc. items. More info on these random photos buried in the thread :)

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j186/amichalski00/P5K_Finished024.jpg
http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j186/amichalski00/grill.jpg
http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j186/amichalski00/ekmosfet001.jpg
http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j186/amichalski00/mosfetbackplate3007.jpg
http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j186/amichalski00/EK_backplate_aluminum012.jpg
http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j186/amichalski00/EK_backplate_aluminum006.jpg
http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j186/amichalski00/EK_backplate_aluminum023.jpg
http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j186/amichalski00/dvd_door065.jpg
http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j186/amichalski00/EK_backplate_aluminum017.jpg
http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j186/amichalski00/dvd_door014.jpg
http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j186/amichalski00/dvd_door021.jpg
http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j186/amichalski00/dvd_door043.jpg
http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j186/amichalski00/dvd_door067.jpg

[Bail_w]

very nice, and good wiring job.

[Vice]

very nice

[DepTi]

Very nice, great wiring job.

That's a lot of tubing though. If you could fit it, you would probably benefit from running dual pumps.

[Colossous]

Theres some great builds in these TJ07's and this is a great build !! :up:

[RockfordFosgate]

Very very clean job:)

[NickS]

Wow, very nice! Those TJ-07's are so roomy it seems.

[SiGfever]

Excellent job! :clap: :clap:

[ruff97]

i like i like good job

[Sparky]

case isn't quite my cup of tea but they sure seem to have a good amount of room down there. Great job!

[hoax]

very nice indeed.. the ziptie anchors was a nice touch too..

[nealh]

OMFG:clap:
..Andy that is great work..I am so jealous...I am really regretting spending $50:mad: on the Silverstone HDD cage

I am going to elevate my my PA120.3 with small round furniture pads...they have a sticky side and will use 6-8 and hope I get adequate elevation and stablity

I am also going to cut the large lower square and the long oval to allow me to take the water loop out entirely and more easily route my tubes..I am only using a single PA120.3

I bought some Dynamat Extreme as per Maxxracer..heck I spent a fortune already so what is another $60....goingto line the lower chamber floor and ceiling(??)..side panels and maybe the very top as well???

I just hope my work looks half as good as yours...and I am too afraid to psot pics based on my cutting skills...although I did pickup some molding from Petra's

[nealh]

AndyM..can you let us know how the top 120mm fans as intake work with temps..are you going to use the 92mm fans as exhaust?

Hey how did you get the ATX plug through that small hole?

How did you cut the mobo tray???

[Patriote]

Sick stuff! Im definitively looking for a TJ07 for a future build!

[AndyM]

Thanks guys!

nealh...holes are all 1" holesaw with some I think 11/16 grommets that fit in a 1" hole, bag of 50 or100 for maybe $6.00 at McMaster, I almost want to drill more holes with that deal, lol. It's real tight, but if you split the grommet to get it on, then use some finesse and brute force, you can get the 24 pin through a 1" hole. I think your running an XBX2 also, so you know the thermisters are between the cpu and memory, and between the memory slots. They are right under the fan wash, so I'm not too sure what they are reading now. I also got a chipset block also, so I dont know if that not heating the board anymore has anything to do with the temps I'm getting, they seem low. Anyway, I've been running Orthos all day to make sure I didnt break anything and right now with the wall thermometer saying 79F, my zone A is 40C, zone B is 36. Good thing that is blowing a noticably cool breeze on the memory, with the way the memory market cratered, I also got some D9 Ballistix (ddr2-1000 version) which I hear need some good cooling. I plan on turning up the juice on those once I get a feel for them. I'm leaving the 92mm's out, with 2 120 intakes those seem to best suited for exhaust holes as I'm just cooling memory and mosfets in there now. I'll say one thing, this thing works for sure. TAT is showing 48 through 51 Orthos loading, before at this room temp it would be pushing 60.

On that note, I found that one of my 36" SATA cables is bad, it wouldnt let the DVD drive be seen by the computer and it wont boot with it connected. The drive definately is ok with a cable switch. Now that it is a new cable (OKGear), and how the heck do you DOA a cable :confused: , any recommendations on another brand of known good cables in 36" preferably in black?

Well, time to start seeing how OC'ing this will go now, later!

[nealh]

Thanks Andy...could you have overlapped a couple one inche holes(sand with a dremel to smooth hole) to make things a little easier on the ATX plug

Hmm did the sata power cables for the HX620w cables reach the DVDRWs?

Great work and congrats...
FWIW..I have a MCX159cu on my NB...I use speedfan
Internal Temp 33c at idle(load with 12hr prime was 37-39 depending on ambients)
temp 3 33C( I believe this ram temp..I have an Antec cool spot on lowest setting blowing on ram)

[louie101086]

i cant wait til i get my tj07

[CedricFP]

Wow great build and great wiring.

I wonder how the warmer air from one affects the cooling capacity of the other.

[Aldy402]

is there a guide anywhere on how to turn 3 fan cables in 1 like he did?

great wiring!

[montyshaw]

Looks cool. Very interesting and creative. Please come and do my wire management for me. :)

]Monty[

[AndyM]

Thanks Andy...could you have overlapped a couple one inche holes(sand with a dremel to smooth hole) to make things a little easier on the ATX plug

Hmm did the sata power cables for the HX620w cables reach the DVDRWs?
)

I'm sure I could, but then I wouldnt have a pretty grommet to look at maybe twice a year :p: . The Sata power cables will reach, but just so. There is no hidden slack in that DVD power cable. I had to use a second Sata cable for the hard drive too, because if I strung it all on one cable, the cable wouldnt reach the DVD then where it is located on top.

I'm really liking this thing. Did a quick and dirty overclock (might be able to use less volts running cooler now), room temps ~78F, and it hasnt cooked to where it likes to crash at 68C like on the old setup with the fans full blast. On a small FFT cycle TAT is showing 65C, so maybe this thing will do 3.9, or even hit the 4.0GHz milemarker now. :up: I think I'll let this cook overnight at 3.8 (fans still at a nice quiet 7 volts) to see if it lives.

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j186/amichalski00/cool38.jpg

[ranker]

Fantastic job Andy!

It seems as if all the TJ-07 guys have wiring down to a science. I'm wondering why you didn't go with two loops especially with two radiators?

Also, you said you found BSPP elbows? I could only find BSPT male/ BSPP female 90 degree elbows at Mcmaster rather than the optimal BSPP male/BSPP female elbows.

Do you have the part number on hand?

[RickCain]

Incredible wire management!

[louie101086]

tj07 is the best case i think tj stands for tear jerker becuase they are good cases

[AndyM]

Fantastic job Andy!

It seems as if all the TJ-07 guys have wiring down to a science. I'm wondering why you didn't go with two loops especially with two radiators?

Also, you said you found BSPP elbows? I could only find BSPT male/ BSPP female 90 degree elbows at Mcmaster rather than the optimal BSPP male/BSPP female elbows.

Do you have the part number on hand?

Thanks! I was trying for a minimalist look with this, as much stuffed in the bottom as possible, and the top as open as possible. Didnt really want extra pumps and tubing up there.

4860K606 is a BSPP male/male nipple that goes in the radiator and elbow.

4860K433 is a BSPP female/female elbow that does the rest.

[septim]

very nice. thanks for the parts # too.

[sick_g4m3r]

wow! excellent job!

[coolrmaster]

Wow great build and great wiring.

I wonder how the warmer air from one affects the cooling capacity of the other.

what i was gonna say....

[Solarfall]

excellent work AndyM... and the rig seems to work like a charm :up:

[Makubex_GB]

Very nice work! So clean, I love it. :clap:

[nealh]

Andy

Is the DVDRW at the very top or one slot down....Corsair really need to make there cable longer...

[AndyM]

Andy

Is the DVDRW at the very top or one slot down....Corsair really need to make there cable longer...

At the very top. Did you get your case already?



On how one rad affects the other...yep, probably does some, but with all that surface area, the overkill aspect kinda makes you not really worry about it too much. Maybe with a quad core at these speeds it might be an issue; so reversing one rad's fans, removing the center fans and having both rads suck in might be an option. Maybe I'll try it that way when that time comes, but for now I like the cross-flow arrangement, keep the upstairs portion relatively cool.

This puppy is pretty toasty now after running Orthos all night in 80F room temperature (makes a nice space heater). Nothing scorching or anything like that, but nice and warm. But, looking at the TAT temp reading, seems to be doing the trick, kinda high for sure, but with 80F ambients, it got its shakedown and survived. All while running the fans at a nice quiet 7 volts, I love it! Time to ramp up the speed some more and see if that works (nice lower voltage 627B chip, but it really belts out the heat, lol)

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j186/amichalski00/38TJ07_crop.jpg

[nealh]

My case is supposed to be delivered tomorrow...from axiontech:D
HDD cage fron newegg tomorrow as well:)
GTX should be here today or tomorrow as well:rofl:

Going out of town next week so build will wait a couple of weeks at least:(

[septim]

maybe you need to elevate your case, take out center fans, make air channel in middle of bottom for air to come up and sucked by both rads...

[ColonelCain]

Great job!

All of these amazing builds really make me hope that I can afford to get a TJ07 for my May '08 build. :slobber:

[elfy]

really nice job on the fan controller :) really wanna do something similar myself, but demi-worried about putting too manyfans on a single molex. have done electronics for a while so can't really figure in my head how, 3 fans @ 7v running on a 12v molex would work, so am pretty unsure wether to do it or not :S

[Grinch]

great job!

[louie101086]

i want to do samething you did but instead use swiftech rads how good is your flow

[AndyM]

Q&A's

Flow seems pretty good, the water moves from what I can tell when getting the air out (lots of tumbling the case with this loop :p:).

I dont see any problem with putting lots of fans on one molex...the wire guage is heavier than the thin guage wire on the fans, I think those can handle a couple amps, should be ok. Inside a power supply the connections are all bridged anyway, so wire guage is your only concern.

A little update...seems I got some bum Ballistix, I have really bad luck with memory, second time out of 2 times this happened. Did some testing and the memory doesnt do its rated spec with memtest, so something's funny there. And the random lockup at 423 MHz even after a 8 hour Orthos run is weird. Either that or I dont know what I'm doing, but I tried pretty much all MCH/FSB/Memory voltage combos, straps, timings, and speeds, still doesnt work right. So I put the old Corsair memory with those high-bandwidth :rofl: Promos chips in them and am just running it at 3.7 GHz now. I will cherish the day I buy some fancy memory and it isnt DOA or refusing to do the rated spec.

Thanks for the complements on my machine guys!

[elfy]

it wasn't really the ampage i was worried about, just really unsure how the voltage would rack up, would they each draw 7v regardless? or with 3 attached would it try to draw 21volts?

[Okda]

ii have a small suggestion

why not make the loop goes NB block then CPU block then VGA block, i think this way u will get much better cpu temps and in the same time ur vga won't suffer much

[Jedda]

Sweet build mate.
Well done.

[AndyM]

Not too worried about loop order, just the neatest possible setup. Amazing how easy it is to get at the BIOS reset jumper now, lol.

elfy...they will each get 7 volts regardless of how many you put across the 12v and 5v leads, up to the current limit of your power supply (think maybe 200 fans or so before you goof something up).

[zgundam]

wow, amazing cable management and layout! great job! :up:

I gave up trying to squeeze my PA120.2 underneath the case and just mounted it on a radbox on the back instead :p

Just one suggestion though - rather than using the 120mm fans on the top to suck air in, how about using the 92mm's as the intakes and the fans on top as the exhaust like it was setup originally?

Seeing as hotter air rises, it makes more sense (for me anyway) to use the 92mm's as intakes and the top fans as exhaust instead...

[Jedda]

Not too worried about loop order, just the neatest possible setup. Amazing how easy it is to get at the BIOS reset jumper now, lol.



lol
On my last box it took a pair of 14 inch surgeons' forcepts to reach and reset the bios jumper. :rofl:

[AndyM]

Yeah, I can see doing the fans like origional, but then I was thinking the origional is pretty much set up for air cooling. Now, the only cooling I'm doing is the memory, the power transistors, the southbridge, hard drive, etc., with the memory needing the most cooling. And there is a more direct blast of cool outside air on the memory using the top fans going down (easily overcoming convection currents of warmer air). I figure that is better than dragging warmed up case air over the memory.


Amazing how .09 volt and 100 mhz can heat things up. Ambients for this testing run of 3.7 Ghz are one or two degrees less at 78F, but warmed up and running Orthos it is some 8 degrees C less than 3.8 Ghz. Now if I could get this thing to boot at 3.9 to see what temps would be like there, but no luck so far without pushing more than 1.55 vcore or if memory is the reason for the no boot, hmmm:shrug: Guess I gotta wait for a RMA'ed set of Ballistix that can actually come close to running the advertised 500 mhz to see which it is ;) Yeah, I could change the divider, but not real confident in how accurate that would be to judge the cause, as I'm not really confident of my 975X at this FSB.

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j186/amichalski00/37TJ07.jpg

[albertyin]

WOW very nice!!
and the temp is good too

[afireinside]

Looks slick! I have two comments:

The tubes going up from the bottom look a bit snug... Why so short?

Your flow must suck with cpu, nb, full cover gpu, and right angles on the rads with a single d5 :(

[AndyM]

Looks slick! I have two comments:

The tubes going up from the bottom look a bit snug... Why so short?

Your flow must suck with cpu, nb, full cover gpu, and right angles on the rads with a single d5 :(


Good eye, when I was looking at those photos I was kinda checking the computer afterwards to see if they were stretched out as they look. Optical illusion. That hose off the chipset really isnt that tight, just that chipset block nipple is so long, then the tubing kind of just falls downwards giving the look of pulling in a photo. I was thinking of ziptieing it to the hose coming up from the pump to the gfx block to get the look right, but I need to find some sort of 1/2" hose spacing block to make that look right also. The water moves pretty good though there looking at the bubbles when purging it, and after Cathar's thread on his flow testing, I'm not too worried that the system might not have some ungodly high flow rate.

[nitteo]

Really nice job!

[Deux]

Q&A's

A little update...seems I got some bum Ballistix, I have really bad luck with memory, second time out of 2 times this happened. Did some testing and the memory doesnt do its rated spec with memtest, so something's funny there. And the random lockup at 423 MHz even after a 8 hour Orthos run is weird. Either that or I dont know what I'm doing, but I tried pretty much all MCH/FSB/Memory voltage combos, straps, timings, and speeds, still doesnt work right. So I put the old Corsair memory with those high-bandwidth :rofl: Promos chips in them and am just running it at 3.7 GHz now. I will cherish the day I buy some fancy memory and it isnt DOA or refusing to do the rated spec.


If I were you I would RMA the Ballistix since crucial has one of the best RMA services I have ever seen. Up there with EVGA.

[AndyM]

No need for an RMA, the problem was I have no idea what I am doing. :p: I just discovered the limitations of the 4:5 memory divider of my board, the memory tests ok on another divider to make 500mhz. That sent me on the wrong path and it went downhill from there. But now that I did a bit of reading on the 975X today, I think I can get to where I'm going without looking too idiotic in the process, hopefully :ROTF:

It's getting there...still figuring out the voltages:


http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j186/amichalski00/39.jpg

[nealh]

Nice Overclock....still on the Badaxe2

BTW..got a look at my TJ07....beautiful case...

My panels are a "little" lose on top so too speak..one side slight worse than the other..I could see how this would rattle....I hope it will not in the end

I got say disappointed with the side panels :( ..one of mine has some silver exposed along where it slides in at the top

Also the edges along the lip on the right is rough...I thought all the edges were smooth...not the best QC, IMHO

I realize supposedly this is "individual built" but the side panels are a concern esp the loose fit on the top and the fact the "black" paint has chipped/rubbed of by the factory:down: ..also the warranty is BS:mad: ..any replacement parts is through the store it was bought at...right, I can see asking for a new side panel and the internet store thinking I am nuts:shakes:

I have Dynamat Extreme on the way as per Maxxracer for sound dampening and wilh some molding from Petra'sand weatherstripping I think I can avoid the rattles


I wish i had time to start my build but were are leaving on vacation, Sunday....Hawaii here we come:yepp:

[AndyM]

You got it, cool. Yeah, these arent perfect, they should be for the price I think, but it's still nice. My rattly side panel doesnt make any noise, unless there was an earthquake then it would. Dont worry about it too much. I'm thinking a bit of dynamat for the hard drive cage. I'm used to that hunk of steel housing of the Antec, you can hear the clicks with this whereas the Antec you really had to try to hear it. I guess that's aluminium for you, some damping material should fix that easy. I've been thinking that this thing would look really cool if it had a brushed finish before they anodized it vs. the blasted finish the body has currently. Can you imagine a polished finish pre-anodizing? That would be really sweet. Know anyone in some sort of metal treatment shop? Whoops, Orthos bombed again writing this...I guess it's back down to 3.7 from the 3.75 I mentioned in the other thread. Wierd though, 3.8 ran ok for 8 hours the other day, gotta check my notes what volts that was at, otherwise this things falling apart. P35 might be sooner than later, I know my CPU wants to run...3.8 worked at 1.52.

[nealh]

You got it, cool. Yeah, these arent perfect, they should be for the price I think, but it's still nice. My rattly side panel doesnt make any noise, unless there was an earthquake then it would. Dont worry about it too much. I'm thinking a bit of dynamat for the hard drive cage. I'm used to that hunk of steel housing of the Antec, you can hear the clicks with this whereas the Antec you really had to try to hear it. I guess that's aluminium for you, some damping material should fix that easy. I've been thinking that this thing would look really cool if it had a brushed finish before they anodized it vs. the blasted finish the body has currently. Can you imagine a polished finish pre-anodizing? That would be really sweet


For $300 it should be perfect I agree..thats right you had a rattly panel too

I paid $60 shipped for the Dynamat Extreme got 12 sq ft coming..I doubt I will use all of it
Maxxracer suggested 2 packs of 4 sq ft but that was like $56 or so shipped

I found a place at ebay..fast shipping too(they next day after payment)
http://cgi.ebay.com/10435-DYNAMAT-Xtreme-Door-Kit-Brand-New_W0QQitemZ180039633865QQcmdZViewItem

[yaddam205]

Wow, someone has a mastery in cable management.

A really top job there Andy, lets hope my TJ07 project comes out even half as clean as yours.

PS: Any pics with side on?

[dinos22]

i love the build there but was wondering if it is really necessary to have two of these RADs considering the hardware you have in there....................you would have been fine with a P120.3 even if you had a quad in there and SLI cards as well IMO

but regardless of that it's great :up:

[EDIT]guess it doesn't hurt if you can afford it heheh ......i must say this is one of the BEST and most practical builds i have seen........all the W.C. gear at the bottom of the case picking up cool air.....if leeks appear in rad or pump where you'd normally see then it won't leek over those expensive components.......just the whole thing looks well though out >>> me likes a lot

[afireinside]

you would have been fine with a P120.3 even if you had a quad in there and SLI cards as well IMO

You're trying to make a joke here? Because I'm laughing...

[AndyM]

Hey, thanks! Pics of side on? Why, I just might have one around here somewhere...

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j186/amichalski00/Lazyman015.jpg

Takes computing to a new level, eh? :D


Anyhoo, looks like Thermochill is to blame for emptying more of my wallet, both on initial purchase and post-sale support. The darn things work so well that I am forced to retire my XBX2 due to it not wanting to give up more than 412 FSB without acting goofy. Rock solid at 412 though...

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j186/amichalski00/37long.jpg


And running really cool too. I forgot to check the ambient temp there though, but I'll say now that I dont have to worry about melting the computer down, there is much more headroom I believe still left in my CPU. However my XBX2 is not cooperative, go a MHz or two beyond 412 and lockups, shut downs, random Orthos crashes occur that cant be fixed with more voltage to the 975x to stabilize it. I guess what they say about that chipset being a low 400's chipset is true. So, a shiny new Asus P5K Deluxe should be arriving this Friday, with all the high FSB fun these are supposed to provide. At 3.8GHz I could pull a 9 hour Orthos run at 1.52 vcore (~1.5 vdroop) on the XBX2, so I have some vcore headroom left for some fun I think before hitting Intel's offical 'bad things will happen' limit of 1.55 vcore. Should be interesting.

nealh: I think that maybe my loose side panel was intentional. I have been thinking how easy it is to slide it open to poke around in there compared to the other side which is nice and tight. Is yours the left panel as viewed from the front? Thanks for the Dynamat link!

[dinos22]

You're trying to make a joke here? Because I'm laughing...

not at all
i've seen rigs like that with great temps............ :)
are you trying to be a comedian yourself? :)

[eXa]

Really nice build.

Tho, like its setup right now the 120.2 is a total waste.

[septim]

nice rig and nice couch too...

[ladderman]

You’ve done a great job.

I like to see work done with thought put in to it, and the time taken to get good results.

Looking through your photos I see the pump doesn’t have any clamps on it. I’d recommend using clamps on everything just to be on the safe side.

I’ll be moding the drive bays on my TJ07 shortly to take two HDDs. I think I might try to have the running across the bays like they would in the base.

[nealh]

nealh: I think that maybe my loose side panel was intentional. I have been thinking how easy it is to slide it open to poke around in there compared to the other side which is nice and tight. Is yours the left panel as viewed from the front? Thanks for the Dynamat link!


Yes..I bet you are correct

The ebay was really nice to work with...I needed it shipped the next becasue of my trip..and they did..I have it sitting in my house
$60 for 12 sq ft vs 4 sq ft with the kit from directon at $30(shipped)..if I recall this was for on 18x32 sheet .. so 2 kits were $58 shipped=2 sheets of 18x32
the 12 sq ft is 4 sheets of 12"x36"

there price looks "weird"..$40 plus $20 shipping...this stuff retails at $100

Hey anone know if the sunbeam fan controller will fit on the side of the 5 1/4 drives cages..I saw someone place there fan controller here in a review....If I use the sunbeam I will nedd to disconnect the crazy bright lights

[nealh]

BTW..How come only a few make a cut out in the divider between top and bottom chamber to allow removal of the entire loop...makes for easier bleeding

[PCTC3]

Nice job man.

I'm actually doing a similar build on a TJ-07. I think I'm going to use yours as a base-off.

I'm actually doing a dual-loop.

First Loop:
PTS DDCT-01s w/ Custom Delrin Top
Thermochill PA 120.3 or Swiftech MCR320
D-Tek Fuzion CPU Block
Danger Den 680i NB Block
Swiftech MCW30 SB Block
Swiftech MicroRes

Second Loop:
Swiftech MCP655
Thermochill PA 120.2 or Swiftech MCR220
2x EK-FC79 Full GPU Blocks
Swiftech MicroRes

Nice wire management job. Well, we'll have to see how well my eVGA 680i-A1 with a E6400 compares? eh? It tops out at 3.733 GHz @ 1.55v BIOS (1.52 actual) in 66F ambient on an Thermalright Ultra120. But I think it's chipset limited b/c my 680i doesn't like to boot above 470 and when it does, it tops out around 500 MHz.

But I know those Thermochills are big holes in the wallet, eh? That's why I might have to go with the Swiftechs. $160 cheaper overall. We'll have to see what my final budget will be.

But anyways,
GREAT JOB.

[AndyM]

But I know those Thermochills are big holes in the wallet, eh? That's why I might have to go with the Swiftechs. $160 cheaper overall. We'll have to see what my final budget will be.
.

Sounds like a sweet setup...but fill that space up, Thermochill! :D

[eXceeded]

All my parts for my build has arrived, I'm not sure when I'm going to build it though because I was actually expecting AMD to release Agena FX in or around July...
Look at my worklog in my sig, I'll add pics of all the hardware soon

[AndyM]

Ok, so I got that new P5K motherboard all setup and found a 24/7 CPU speed that has a happy medium of not going over 1.55 volts vcore (real), and stays at a decent temperature under maximum load. Now let's see how this new motherboard will let me take advantage of those Thermochills...

Drumroll for the OMG!!! Overclock.....


http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j186/amichalski00/38_155_45div_21hr_crop.jpg

:rofl: Wow, didnt I post a screenie of a 9 hour 3.8 run with the BadAxe2 board already in this thread? Now there's a good investment, huh? :p: Small difference between the two though, this P5K board doesnt mysteriously turn off or lock up when doing something besides Orthos at 3.8 speed. I played a bit with 3.9Ghz, but fear of going to the 1.6 volt range kept me away from making that Orthos stable, that and getting really hot running small FFT's, to the tune of the low 70's in TAT. Maybe I'll turn on the AC and re-check the CPU block mounting should 4.0 GHz become a goal again.

I'm thinking of getting a bigNG fan controller for this next, I'm getting the impression that some sort of beyond 7 volt fan speeds will be a good idea at times with 24/7 3.8 Ghz. I did some reading on it today and I gotta say, I'm impressed. Just gotta wait for PPC's to get it in stock. Anyone have any experience with ordering this from overseas somewhere?

[tylerdustin2008]

That looks GREAT! I wanted that case, but i knew i would wna tphase change eventually, so i just opted for a U2-UFO.

[jabski]

lol
On my last box it took a pair of 14 inch surgeons' forcepts to reach and reset the bios jumper. :rofl:

same here lol :yepp:

[AndyM]

I finished up the install of the P5K Deluxe board tonight making it presentable and changed out that bad SATA cable, so a photo or two of the job...

Going from the XBX2 to the P5K involved the video card dropping down a slot. I had to put a longer tube from the CPU block to the video card block, that wasnt too much of a biggie. However the pump to video card block tube was a little longer than needed also. I was thinking of trimming it down, but then the thought of having to dig the pump out to wrestle some 7/16's onto the output (not a fun job) came to mind should I move to another board in the future that has the video card back up a slot. To prevent kinks I put some Coolsleeves wrap on it. I also put another one of my famous ziptie anchors onto the video card block to give some more support to the NB block exit hose, makes it look a bit better that way I think instead of the way it was kinda just hanging down before. I also was able to use the Swiftech NB block hardmount kit with the Asus board, much more solid than the hook and spring w/RTV added for better stability NB mount setup I had with the XBX2...

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j186/amichalski00/P5K_Finished024.jpg


In case you are wondering what happened to the mosfet heatsinks that come with the P5K Deluxe, yes, they are missing. I was doing some testing and found that they really did nothing of value. Poor chip contact with the heatsink out of the box, thick tape, and these devices dumping most of their heat into what they are soldered to vs. through their plastic housing conspired to making the heatsinks lukewarm under load, while the MB was hot when feeling the top edge of it. Since the heatsinks kind of did nothing but block airflow, I took them off so the two 120mm fans blowing down onto the MB could do the job better. Looks like the 'real' heatsink is right here...there's some nice meaty traces, eh?

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j186/amichalski00/P5K_Finished044.jpg

[sick_g4m3r]

THats a reallllllllllllllllll beauty!!!!

EXCELLENT JOB!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Jedda]

I'm thinking of getting a bigNG fan controller for this next, I'm getting the impression that some sort of beyond 7 volt fan speeds will be a good idea at times with 24/7 3.8 Ghz. I did some reading on it today and I gotta say, I'm impressed. Just gotta wait for PPC's to get it in stock. Anyone have any experience with ordering this from overseas somewhere?

Yeah, they're good.
You can get it direct from M-cube's on-site store but the cost blows out with shipping and the euro's exchange rate. I'm in Australia and found it much cheaper to ship from Performance PCs than M-cube, so for you it's even more so.
Just sourced the digital probe expansion from PPC and it worked out at 50% less.

[Bei Fei]

*drool* I need a TJ-07. Nice job I think this will be my next case.

[disruptfam]

hey,

I wanted to do the same setup as you.That Tj-07 looks awesome.I'll be doing dual loops though.triple>cpu>nb>res>pump and dual>gpu>res>pump.

I'm going to have my all fans to suck one way so the waste heat travels outside the case.Although obviously one of the rads will be getting the other's heat.Is there enough space to fit a triple rad,dual rad and 2 laing d5's down there with a thermaltake 850w psu?

cheers

anyone else have dual rads at the bottom of there tj07 please post i could use the pointers

[Pete]

I wander what if you where to do some uber modding on the fan and rad.

Have 1 set of 120mm go one way and the next the other

< - 120.2
< - 120.2
> - 120.3

Will have to duct them between each other but it would even the heating up a bit

The 120.3 will take more heatload fine where as the 120.2 you want to keep cool as possible

You could mount a 120.2 or 120.1 in the top, or in the drive bays!

I would get one of these cases if they where cheaper

[echn111]

Very nice setup. This is more of a general question for owners of TJ07 and 2 rads in the lower compartment, but in terms of fan combinations, I'm wondering which is better.

Option1: This is the way it's currently configured. The PA120.2 gets slightly less fresh air.
f-> PA120.3 PA120.2 ->f
f-> PA120.3 PA120.2 ->f
f-> PA120.3 PSU <-

Option2: This could help cool the upper compartment more. Another advantage is that both the PA120.3 and PA120.2 get fresh air. But wondering if the fans lessen the efficiency of each other and whether the turbulance makes noise.
f-> PA120.3 PA120.2 <-f
f-> PA120.3 PA120.2 <-f
f-> PA120.3 PSU <-

Option3: Negative pressure case. Advantage is the fan noise will be slightly lower as it's muffled. It pulls air from the upper compartment so helps airflow. Disadvantage is that the air isn't as cool as options 1 and 2.
PA120.3<-f f->PA120.2
PA120.3<-f f->PA120.2
PA120.3<-f PSU <-

[AndyM]

I was thinking of changing around the fans, but after today I think that in one side and out the other is best...keeps the heat out, and does it put out heat! Example...today I left the windows open thinking it would be 80F tops outside while away at work...didnt happen. Upon arrival home I found room ambient temp at 86F according to the Honeywell digital thermometer on the wall. The machine was still happily chugging away doing a 14 hour total Orthos run at 3.75 GHz @ 1.49 vcore loaded, cpu temps read by TAT in the mid 60's. I'd say crossflow is pretty good. Then you can have the top fans blowing down with 'cool' outside air cooling the memory and board as a bonus. I cannot imagine the heat that I felt coming out the side of the case being ducted into the case to provide cool air for both rads, seems it would be counter-productive.

And why was I doing a long hot Orthos run? To make sure I didnt break too much changing my loop some...EK Mosfet blocks added... (photo while still in leak testing so wires disconnected ;) )

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j186/amichalski00/leaktest002.jpg

[AndyM]

Option1: This is the way it's currently configured. The PA120.2 gets slightly less fresh air.
f-> PA120.3 PA120.2 ->f
f-> PA120.3 PA120.2 ->f
f-> PA120.3 PSU <-
-

Actually all the intake is on the PSU side...this way around ~1/3 of the 120.3 is getting air that didnt formerly pass through the 120.2. I'm also suspecting that some of the 120.3 is pulling air from the upper chamber as well, but havent done any 'smoke testing' to verify this as of yet.

[echn111]

Actually all the intake is on the PSU side...this way around ~1/3 of the 120.3 is getting air that didnt formerly pass through the 120.2. I'm also suspecting that some of the 120.3 is pulling air from the upper chamber as well, but havent done any 'smoke testing' to verify this as of yet.

Thanks for that. So the one side to another option is probably better than the second option with opposing fans. Although not sure that having the intake on the PSU side is better as the PSU is a self-contained system and doesn't contribute to either of the rads. This means that 1/3 of this side doesn't contribute fresh air to the system.

I'm either going with the one side to another or the negative pressure one option (i.e. all the lower fans exhaust air). Will probably have to experiment a bit.

[c.freak]

That might be one of those xtreme cool builds you see ones and awhile around here. Awesome job done on that TJ07. The wiring is all over my potential but you give some good tips though. Actually i've been wondering what kind of case people are using when they mount there radiator(s) in the lower regions.
I got 2 triple's and i really hate having one in the top and the other one in the bottom.

[nealh]

That might be one of those xtreme cool builds you see ones and awhile around here. Awesome job done on that TJ07. The wiring is all over my potential but you give some good tips though. Actually i've been wondering what kind of case people are using when they mount there radiator(s) in the lower regions.
I got 2 triple's and i really hate having one in the top and the other one in the bottom.

Mountain Mod cases..I think it is a Horizon?

[~aoe~]

That is just awesome :clap:. I wish I had your talent.

I recently installed my main system in a TJ07 and love the case. However, I've just embarked on my 1st water-cooling project, and I didn't even consider trying to install it in this case. Saying that, I haven't progressed onto modding yet, although I am sorely tempted after seeing both this thread and the CM Stacker thread (STC-T01 was my previous case, which I still own).

I decided to have a go at water-cooling because I was bored, and now I have this urge to have a go at modding my cases.

I don't know whether to thank you or curse you :confused:

Well, at least I now have a spare case to play with and some great ideas to work with.

[Bun-Bun]

I think you just sold me on that case and inspired me to build a watercooled server...

Nice job man.

[MaxxxRacer]

The fans on the 120.2 need to go blow the other direction. The way it is currently setup, the 120.2 feeds the 120.3 its warm exhaust air.

[AndyM]

The fans on the 120.2 need to go blow the other direction. The way it is currently setup, the 120.2 feeds the 120.3 its warm exhaust air.


Yes, it does ;)

The question is, have cool outside air going through one side and out the other, or have possibly warmed by MB/memory/etc air from inside the case going though both. I need to buy a small thermometer and see what the case temp is inside...on the list of stuff to do.

[sssf]

very nice job!

I hope you can find a solution to encounter dust, otherwise it will be a pain in the ass to remove it

[Angry Beaver]

I plan to do almost exactly the same thing so if you could figure out wheter its better to push air into the case from both rads or push it out that would be much appricated (sp?). :D

[pie_uk]

nice case, i have it to, have done for around 5 months, bought the sugo sg-01 so now selling th TJ07 to a mate :)

lovely case but its moosive

ps i would use 3/8 tubing, it will look much cleaner, especially if you want to cool the mosfets etc

[Borgod]

Nice case mate.

With the 2 rads down the bottom, do you think it would be possible to squeeze in a small Swiftech 120mm rad at the front of the bottom compartment? Could you shift the PA120.3 towards the back a little, have the PA120.2 right up against the PSU and have enough room for a small at the front?

Cheers

[LynkDead]

I don't see any mention of fitting the PSU down there. How tricky was it? Is there ANY possible room for a slightly bigger one?

[AndyM]

Thanks guys!


Nice case mate.

With the 2 rads down the bottom, do you think it would be possible to squeeze in a small Swiftech 120mm rad at the front of the bottom compartment? Could you shift the PA120.3 towards the back a little, have the PA120.2 right up against the PSU and have enough room for a small at the front?

Cheers

The 120.3 is wedged in there pretty good. I think you could fit maybe a BIP or MCR in there, but there probably wouldnt be room for a fan...also, where would the air come from? As it is now, the 120.3 was located where it was so that the fans would fit square in the vent. The pump happened to squeeze in there where it is with maybe 0.01mm clearance. Moving the pump upstairs allows more options of course.


I don't see any mention of fitting the PSU down there. How tricky was it? Is there ANY possible room for a slightly bigger one?

Pretty easy, the hardest part was deciding where to put the 120.2 keeping in mind barb location on both rads and fitting the 90 degree elbows + tube routing. I'm sure you could move the mess further forward a bit for a longer PSU, it all depends where you want to put the pump to change tubing options around for clearance. FWIW, the HX620 doesnt spool up at all with the stuff in my sig, nice and quiet with zero power issues.

[AndyM]

I thought I would throw up a quick photo of what I feel is one of the most useful mods you can do to this case when watercooling it...

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j186/amichalski00/modmesh004.jpg

I put some 'modder's mesh' (http://www.mnpctech.com/moddersmesh.html)perforated metal sheet in place of the stock vents. This stuff, the hexagonal shaped mesh with 79% open area flows much much better than stock. Stock is roughly ~45% or so open area. Very big, very noticable difference in air flow. Also available at McMaster, but as one piece from Mnpctech does both vents on a TJ07, seems to be more economical to buy it from there.

[jayhall0315]

Hey Andy,
I was away on a trip for a few days and just found your post. Damn man, now I see why you were asking me about 90 degree elbows close to the pump. You have a damn fine build there. I really like how the cables tuck around behind the motherboard.
I may tackle this in a future thread, but I just do not feel that any company is putting out a premium case right now that targets the high end watercooling crowd (sorry, even the nice TJ07 doesn't fit the bill in my mind - too cramped). The closest in my mind are the UFO, Lian Li PC 75b, Lian Li PC G70 and the old huge Chenming 901 cases. Even these cases do not really have room for more than one PA 120.3 rad and one pump. Yes, you can jimmy rig them to install more stuff, but I mean with style and room.
Whatta ya think? Getting two rads in the bottom looks like a damn tight fit to me.

Jay

Motto for the day: Science, It just works biitches !

[Borgod]

Cheers AndyM,

I'll have a closer look when I receive my TJ07 next week.

Good question about the airflow for such a rad. It will be used for cooling the mosfet, NB & SB blocks so I'm not after near-ambent temps by any means, however with next to no airflow it may defeat the purpose of watercooling at all. I may have to use my PA120.2 for these blocks, and mount a second PA120.3 outside of the case to cool my QX6700 and SLI 8800GTX's.

I'm up for a challenge :)

[AndyM]

Cheers AndyM,

I'll have a closer look when I receive my TJ07 next week.

Good question about the airflow for such a rad. It will be used for cooling the mosfet, NB & SB blocks so I'm not after near-ambent temps by any means, however with next to no airflow it may defeat the purpose of watercooling at all. I may have to use my PA120.2 for these blocks, and mount a second PA120.3 outside of the case to cool my QX6700 and SLI 8800GTX's.

I'm up for a challenge :)


Yeah, you'll have one heck of a heat load there for sure. One thing that is possible you could do for a small seperate loop for mosfets/nb/sb is something like this: If you check the photo of my HDD cage in my case, a single BIP or one of the MCR's can be installed over the fan for the hard drives. Then one of the 9 watt DDC's with 3/8" barbs can be installed on the MB tray over by the memory area. Then a bit of 3/8" tubing to route the loop, and that should work out pretty nicely. It wont be near ambient by any means, actually near-case water temps :p: . But it will allow full Thermochill capacity for that quad and g80's.

[Jedda]

Yes, that grill swap looks good value.
I find that modder's mesh very easy to work with, too. It shapes easily over a block of wood to make brackets, screens and such without blocking airflow.

[Borgod]

Thats a superb idea Andy. Should definitely make things easier. I was going to mount twin DDC's on the bottom of the 5.25" bays to begin with anyway, so I'll just mount a BIX120 in front of them.

With some luck I may be able to give up the use of only the bottom 3 bays.
Care to do me a favour and measure the height from the tray under the 5.25" bays to the top of the 3rd bay? :)

[AndyM]

Will do later today

[JvT]

Hi AndyM.

I really like your mod. :up:
As I'm a TJ07 owner and WC'er I see that I have a long way to go to get to your level... :yepp:

But you have given me some ideas.

I was wondering about your HD cooling. Does the fan pull air from the outside, or does it just circulate the air from the case?
To me it looks like the front of your case is closed.

[AndyM]

Yeah, its just an air circulator, no outside intake. I had the mounting for a fan, so why not use it? :cool:

[Borgod]

Will do later today

Cheers mate :)

[JvT]

I thought I would throw up a quick photo of what I feel is one of the most useful mods you can do to this case when watercooling it...

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j186/amichalski00/modmesh004.jpg

I put some 'modder's mesh' (http://www.mnpctech.com/moddersmesh.html)perforated metal sheet in place of the stock vents. This stuff, the hexagonal shaped mesh with 79% open area flows much much better than stock. Stock is roughly ~45% or so open area. Very big, very noticable difference in air flow. Also available at McMaster, but as one piece from Mnpctech does both vents on a TJ07, seems to be more economical to buy it from there.

Just as you, my WC setup is made for low/no noise. How will you describe the audiolevel of your fans after you replaced the stock mesh with "Modders Mesh"?

[Borgod]

Any measurements yet?

Im hoping a BIX120 will only take up the bottom 3 5.25" bays :o

[AndyM]

Just as you, my WC setup is made for low/no noise. How will you describe the audiolevel of your fans after you replaced the stock mesh with "Modders Mesh"?

I havent noticed much difference.



Any measurements yet?

Im hoping a BIX120 will only take up the bottom 3 5.25" bays :o

Here ya go...

The DVD drives go only as far as the very bottom of the 'C' shaped cutout in the side panel.

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j186/amichalski00/EK_backplate_aluminum037.jpg

This should give you an idea...

BIP held up roughly to the fan screw holes it could be mounted to.

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j186/amichalski00/EK_backplate_aluminum042.jpg

[AndyM]

I had my machine on the workbench tonight as I was installing some backplates I made for the EK Mosfet blocks, so I took the opportunity to snap a few photos of some new features.

First up...the custom made backplates. 1/8 inch aluminum:

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j186/amichalski00/EK_backplate_aluminum012.jpg

They keep the MB from bowing as it will if the mosfet blocks are just screwed in to the bare MB. An added benefit is that sufficient pressure is now applied to the mosfets to allow AS5 to be used vs. whatever crappy 'thermal' tape is commonly used for a superior thermal interface. Now there is enough 'crush' to level out the mosfets for adequate block contact on all of the chips. Note this is the P5K Deluxe, where Asus thoughfully soldered mosfets on the back of the board as well. On a standard board one could simply sandwich in a strip of neoprene or something for insulation should this be tried.

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j186/amichalski00/EK_backplate_aluminum006.jpg

I got a spiffy new Raptor X on sale for cheap, nothing like something spinning at 10K rpm in your computer :p: . I noticed quicker XP load times, so it's good. You may notice the Dynamat wrapped around the sides and bottom of the HDD cage. Again, a noticable improvement in sound damping with this stuff, especially with Raptor seek noise.

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j186/amichalski00/EK_backplate_aluminum017.jpg

I also have a high-tech fan controller now :rofl:

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j186/amichalski00/EK_backplate_aluminum044.jpg

And a nice overall shot of the loop as it is at this time, along with a change to the 'curved blade' Yate Loon fans.

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j186/amichalski00/EK_backplate_aluminum023.jpg

[Borgod]

Excellent, thanks for the pic mate. I'll have a few mm to spare :)

Mosfet cooling I've had bad experience with using an Abit QuadGT. They need very little pressure, so I hope your block isn't screwed down too tightly!

[AndyM]

The latest addition to my machine...Lian-Li DVD bezels. Really cleans up the look of the face of the TJ07 I think...


http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j186/amichalski00/dvd_door067.jpg


I made a seperate worklog for this mod as I think it would be more useful not buried in this thread...

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=155986

[Psycho_eddie]

:clap: well done mate that looks awsome... must be a sauna down there :rofl:

So you just have the cpu/mobo/gpu watercooled... could you setup take two overclocked 8800gtx's??


What temps idle load with:
CPU
MOBO
GPU

??


Looks like ill get one of these at xmas with a pa 120.3 in the bottom to cool my amd 6000 + 8800gtx... will be enough??

[AndyM]

Yeah, my ambient temps are on the higher side. 2 G80's? Sure, that'll work with no forseeable problem, maybe then it would be an idea to split the loop due to flow restrictions as right now it's on the edge where flow/temperature effects can be seen. If the pump is turned below 2 CPU load temp goes up 3-4C due to flow issues, but anywhere above that pump speed setting temps go back down remaining the same within the 1C resolution of monitoring software. But good to think about should you want to add more stuff to the loop with 1 pump.

I really dont look at temps too much as they are so variable with my wildly shifting ambients and whether the fans are at 7 volts or 12. But full bore small FFT load with ~80F ambients/12 volt fans is in the low-mid 70's. Idle in same ambients with fans at 7 volts range 44-47C with the water getting warm. Keep in mind I'm at 1.592 idle/1.584 load vcore at 3.85 GHz, so heat output is rather high. Turning down the speed some 100-200 Mhz will drastically lower temperatures with this CPU. But that's not what I'm after, this sucker is right at the edge of where it will take no more...50 MHz more and it's not Orthos 'forever' stable, but at 3.85 it is, so that's where it stays, lol.

[Deathspine]

I am starting my first water cooling project with a TJ07. I noticed you have no reservoir just a fill port. Is that correct? Why no resservoir? Where does the fill port enter the loop? Any disadvantages doing without a reservoir?

[nealh]

the filliport is typically placed prior to the pump...but pretty sure Andy has it before one othe rads in the front
Look at the ~11th pic in first post

Look at my thread..my T-Line is ver obvious(the tubing does not have to be so long for the T-line...mine is capped with cut portion oif CD spindle stalk
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?p=2392004

I hate a res....mine cracked but I had removed from my loop just one more expense and risk...T-Line..brass T= $2

[AndyM]

Yup, no res. T is located down below as nealh described. I never saw the point of a res, seemed a bit overdone. If you had to top off your loop all the time, I'd think you have bigger issues than needing 'extra' to keep it filled. Bleeding isnt really a problem for me with a T, also with all the stuff in my loop I dont have enough flow with my D5 to knock loose any trapped air bubbles, so bleeding is a tumble the case/start-stop pump/guide bubbles to the T proposition for me. Works out OK in the end.

On a side note...I backed down the OC to 3.8 from 3.85. Amazing how that last Orthos stable 50Mhz and .05 volt can really get things cooking. Now my temps are low 60C's full Orthos load in my upper 70F's ambients. Much cooler running overall as well, and I dont think I'll miss that 50Mhz. Although those 6850's are interesting...do I spend $300 and roll the dice on making 4.0Ghz Orthos stable or wait a few months for 45nm to arrive, decisions decisions :p:

[Deathspine]

Thanks gentleman, I think I'll go without the resesvior. The resesvior just takes up too much space even with this large case. I have been reading these threads. Encluding Nealh's. If I got this right the T is placed before the pump with the fill line attached to it. I'll just think this over, review the threads again and reconsider my tubing path. I was initially going with the setup at Performance PC but I am now leaning toward something similar to Andy's with but one PA 120.3 in the bottom.

[Deathspine]

I found Andy's T fitting with the fill line. It is in the front of the case just before the return to the radiator. I was wondering since Nealh was mentioning it usually goes before the pump and Andy's pump is in the back of the case. That would be a long fill line, but I see Andy just went before the radiator but is that before the pump? I believe the T filling is after the pump between the radiators.

[nealh]

I found Andy's T fitting with the fill line. It is in the front of the case just before the return to the radiator. I was wondering since Nealh was mentioning it usually goes before the pump and Andy's pump is in the back of the case. That would be a long fill line, but I see Andy just went before the radiator but is that before the pump? I believe the T filling is after the pump between the radiators.

Generally most recommend the T-line right before the pump....

Now in Andy's case being right before a res seems to work just fine

[AndyM]

Pretty much any random location will do, the idea here is to have an easy path for air to escape while you are bleeding it. Your choice of location will determine how easy fill/bleed gets. Out of sheer luck, that long piece of hose before my T came in handy to be able to shut the pump off soon enough so flow would stop keeping bubbles visible in the hose to 'guide' them out before they hid in a non-visible location. The longish hose going to the roof of the case has a decent enough capacity so filling while bleeding isnt too frequent as well.

My loop goes... pump>gpu>cpu>mosfet>mosfet>ridiculusly long hose to lower front of case>T-fitting>rad>rad>pump...

[dr4gon]

your sleeving and cable management is excellent!

What type of black sleeving (size, brand, link?) and heatshrink (size,brand,link?) are you using. I got a sleeving kit from Petra's and the black loom is not as black and shiny and the heatshrink doesn't shrink enough.

[louie101086]

great job i really like the modders mesh idea i would love to try but i just dont want to see all my wires i have hidden down there but more airflow is pretty tempting

[AndyM]

Thanks guys! The modder's mesh makes such a noticable improvement in airflow through the radiators, any wires showing are kinda secondary in concern IMO. Of course sleeving and tucking them away works too :cool: At any rate, I highly recommend the mesh, the stock stuff is just too restrictive in comparison.

Sleeving is the EasyCut kind from McMaster-Carr in various sizes I had on hand, heatshrink is the standard PCV kind from the same place.

[nealh]

great job i really like the modders mesh idea i would love to try but i just dont want to see all my wires i have hidden down there but more airflow is pretty tempting

I really think you will need to get up and close to see any tucked away wires...

my modders mesh will be here Wed for another mesh grill creation..LOL

[dr4gon]

Thanks guys! The modder's mesh makes such a noticable improvement in airflow through the radiators, any wires showing are kinda secondary in concern IMO. Of course sleeving and tucking them away works too :cool: At any rate, I highly recommend the mesh, the stock stuff is just too restrictive in comparison.

Sleeving is the EasyCut kind from McMaster-Carr in various sizes I had on hand, heatshrink is the standard PCV kind from the same place.

thanks! I just went on their website and :shocked: they have a ton of products!

[AndyM]

thanks! I just went on their website and :shocked: they have a ton of products!


Yup, my favorite toy store :D

[Borgod]

I remember someone saying that changing the mesh made no difference to temps.

[NicePants42]

I remember someone saying that changing the mesh made no difference to temps.Better air flow is better air flow. Whether or not it made a difference in one person's loop is not a global indicator.

Check post #11 here (http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=142431&highlight=tj07+grill), and read a little closer on the temp difference with the panels on/off.

[nealh]

if I take my panels out completely...I saw a 2-3C drop from stock..on my gutter guard temps are 1-2C better than stock mesh

no doubt more airflow helps

[Borgod]

Fair enough then.

An Australian shortage of black TJ07's stunted my plans, but mine finally arrived yesterday.

Time to blow the cobwebs off the dremel :D

[AndyM]

I took the opportunity today to do a little testing. I was curious what effect having both rads drawing outside air would have on temperature. When origionally setting this up, I kept in mind airflow...specifically going in one side and out the other taking the heat outside the case right away. It seemed to be the best way vs. having each rad drawing from the outside, then having to turn, then making its way upstairs to heat up the components residing there...etc.

But I wanted some definate answers if I would have better temp results doing the conventional thought of each and every radiator drawing outside air with no regard to airflow issues. I proceeded to flip my fans on the 120.3 so they would draw air in. I disconnected the center fans so they would not spin. I had thoughts of maybe removing them for more accurate testing as they might affect airflow, but with them not really sealed against anything and the built-in plenum space in the rads and gaps between the rads, it seemed whatever inaccuracies would occur would not be too drastic. That and I'm too lazy to tear my machine apart to be able to get at them. The fans were kept at 7 volts as is usual, and the case sides were on (note that I have 'modders mesh' for my grills so they flow a lot better than stock).

I turned on the AC and did some Orthos testing and awaited seeing some "OMG!!! :eek: " improvements in my temperatures. After everything warmed up, I noticed that the temperatures, well, sucked. At least compared to my memory of load test temperatures before. Time to do some 'scientific style' testing.

Using TAT's "100% load" function on both cores so I could have a really high and consistant heatload, I let that run until things stabilized and took a screenshot of what was happening...

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j186/amichalski00/fans_in_TAT1007min.jpg

Rather high temps reported by TAT & Coretemp. Note the readings from the 8800/Rivatuner graph as far as ambient temp goes, as well as the MB temp from Asusprobe. Seems things get warm upstairs with radiator exhaust heating up the MB compartment.

I then put things back as they were with the airflow going in one side and out the other, same TAT load left on for almost an hour...much better temps.

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j186/amichalski00/fans_oneway_TAT10045min.jpg

No radiator exhaust blowing into the case keeps the 8800 ambient temp reading and MB readings cooler as well. The radiators are noticably cooler with the fans oriented this way, confirming the software temperature readings.

So, in the case of a TJ07 with wide thermochill radiators, it appears that it is better to have an 'in one side and out the other' fan setup. My results may have differed if I was using thinner rads, I removed the inoperative center fans during testing, I wasnt using a tower case where airflow would need to make a turn resulting in less airflow though the rads, etc etc etc.

I also did a bit of very rough experimentation with a kind of push-pull setup...

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j186/amichalski00/rough.jpg

While this is a really lame attempt improve flow with both rads drawing air from the outside as a lot of the intake area of these 'floor fans' are trying to suck though a sheet of metal, I wanted to give it a try anyway. It was so bad that it made no noticable changes so I wont bother persuing this idea further. I think the primary issue is airflow is so affected by having to turn reducing the amount making it though the rads at a given time really affects the water temperature. Seems the benefits of lots of air volume moved from 7 fans going all one way vs. 3 fans going one way, 2 fans going the other, are better in this application.

[NicePants42]

Hey man, it never hurts to test! Thanks for spending the time!

[JvT]

I couldn't agree more with NicePants42!
This worklog here has inspired me to improve my current setup...

[Borgod]

Thats great info, cheers mate :)

[rsmaverick]

Nice looking there, I have a quick question for you andy, Does that case use rivets to keep the frame together? If so...how did you get them off.

[AndyM]

Nope, all screws, very easy to tear it down to a bare shell.

[rsmaverick]

ah I see! Well thats good, dammit... Lian-li uses rivets and im trying to figure it out haha.

[Nizmox]

Thanks for the testing Andy, was considering doing that myself and now I know not to bother.

I suppose my question now is, does having the extra 120.2 rad help?
Would you get the same performance with just the 120.3 and great airflow? You could put another set of 3 fans to push the air out the other side if you ditched the second rad.

[AndyM]

I think it helps. I'm coming from another triple rad setup, only using BIP's for that one. My max OC with that keeping the fans at 7 volts was 3.6Ghz. The thing would rapidly reach for uncomfortably high temps idle/load beyond there (I have a higher heat-producing "B" chip). Mind you BIP's are totally outclassed by the Thermochill for low-cfm setups, but that's what I'm building...high OC with little/no noise. Now that I have added mosfet coolers (P5K Deluxe gets real hot...and has a ton of mosfets all over the place), and ran the OC up to 3.8, this new setup really handles high ambient temps and low fan speeds with keeping temps where I like them. No way my old 'triple' setup could have handled that. Using a single Thermochill I think things would be a bit on the warm-ish side, I'd probably have to turn up the fan speed for the same cooling capacity.

[louie101086]

andy i love the modders mesh thing so much how did you bend it to look like it came with the panel becuase i ordered the mesh but i am still tryin to figure out how i will get it to shape right

[AndyM]

It might seem like some extra work...but if you go through the process of clamping it between two blocks and hammer the edge over to make a 90 degree angle before cutting it, the cut will be mostly hidden vs. just cutting to fit. I know the cells by chance happen to perfectly line up with the size of the vent hole, but doing the extra step makes for a better final result. I think that there is a guide on the mnpctech site on how to work with this stuff, and there is a worklog or two here using Home Depot gutter guard using this method (I'm forgetting who posted one). Here's a picture so you get a better idea of the end result...btw, a permanent marker makes a pretty good 'paint job' on this :D

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j186/amichalski00/grill_edge001.jpg

[pringle140]

I really would like to know how did u connect those fan cables on the radiators together . It looks nice and neat. Is there a tutorial for this or maybe you can explain it somehow?

[shazza]

I really would like to know how did u connect those fan cables on the radiators together . It looks nice and neat. Is there a tutorial for this or maybe you can explain it somehow?

Check out this thread (http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=137280). Should be enough to get you started.

[64dragon]

andy, thats amazing, well done. where did you get the 3/4 length standoffs to mount the hard drive cage up top?

[JvT]

andy, thats amazing, well done. where did you get the 3/4 length standoffs to mount the hard drive cage up top?

Not to steal AndyM's answer, but to me it looks like ordinary motherboard standoffs

[64dragon]

the ones that have come with the 2 cases i've used so far were 5/16", less than half the length of what he used to secure the hard drive cage to the 5.25 bay.

just checked newegg pics and it does appear that the standoffs that come with the case are much longer that what i've gotten with other cases. if what comes with the case is 3/4 then that saves me a purchase which is very cool. i'm gettin a tj07 next month/x-mas, cant wait to have a REAL case

[Snyxxx]

Nice work as usual Andy. Thanks for sharing the good photos.

[Jedda]

And a nice overall shot of the loop as it is at this time, along with a change to the 'curved blade' Yate Loon fans.

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j186/amichalski00/EK_backplate_aluminum023.jpg

Andy
Those wires on the fan spokes could do with a smear of black liquid electrical tape over them. Finishes them off nicely.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v408/sulk/productLarge_6365.jpg

[Pharoahe808]

64dragon: For my current project, I'm also using a TJ07 and my plan was to do the same thing as Andy. Unfortunately, I could not find those 3/4 inch standoffs at the hardware store. Probably because I didn't look hard enough. The standoffs that came with the tower are just about 1/2 inch and don't even come remotely close to the walls of the 5.25" bays:( In the end, I just bought hard drive adapters.

[Waterlogged]

For peeps in the U.S.of A., there is only one source anyone should consider for all fastener/odd tidbit needs........Mcmaster

[64dragon]

For peeps in the U.S.of A., there is only one source anyone should consider for all fastener/odd tidbit needs........Mcmaster

you are correct, thanks

now i just need to figure out the screw sizes

[septim]

get them alum (cheapest) 1/2 3/4 1 1.5 inch lenghts
and try thread sized 6-32 standard throught out your case

also good buy is a 6-32 hand tap with the handle, so you can tap most holes (including the PA120.3 holes) into a standard all through out your case.

[AndyM]

On the standoffs...I found some at work that just happened to be the needed length and were the same thread as the P180 HDD screws I was using, so I dont have a source. I'd think McMaster might have something similar.

[giorgioprimo]

Realy nice work, I would like to ask some question:

http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n69/giorgioprimo/varie/TJ07build259-2.jpg

may you let me know, please, wre did you get the grommets in the picuters? wich size arr them ? wich size did you drill the holes in the case to put them ?

thanks

[JvT]

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j186/amichalski00/grill_edge001.jpg
How did you fasten the mesh to the sidepanel? I've tried to line the mesh up with the holes in the sidepanel, where the original mesh was fastened, but I can't seem to align the mesh all around to fasten the new mesh in the same manner as the original mesh... :confused:

[evil-98]

i remember him using 3m mount tape i think, the super strong double stick tape

nice build man, gave me alot of ideas and plenty of info :up:

[AndyM]

No tape...just some mesh left long to have a 'strand' that can wrap into the holes. Took a bit of tinkering for sure to get it to mount up.

[Prelim]

Realy nice work, I would like to ask some question:

http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n69/giorgioprimo/varie/TJ07build259-2.jpg

may you let me know, please, wre did you get the grommets in the picuters? wich size arr them ? wich size did you drill the holes in the case to put them ?

thanks

im asking the same :)

[AndyM]

They are part # 9600K55 from McMaster-Carr (http://www.mcmaster.com). Holes are 1 inch.

[AndyM]

HOT FLASH:

More stuff soon to be stuffed into the case...in the form of a Lian-Li 343B 3-bay fan housing in the 5.25 bays, a PA120.1 behind that, the HDD housing experiencing some relocation/mods, another D5 pump, and addition of D-Tek nozzle kit.

Awaiting parts delivery, then awaiting time to do this, should be fun. Excessive cooling rocks! :p:

[louie101086]

cant wait to see all this

[Anti`]

Yeah cant wait to see this myself as i am in the middle of watercooling my tj-07. But i think i will be mounting a Pa120.3 in the top and a PA120.2 in the front so i can leave the 6 hdds down the bottom.

On a seperate note, your build is so tidy and stealthy looking. Its a breath of frest air from the usual wanna be " 80's disco / Miami neon " looking thing people seem to be fond of.

Keep up the good work :)

[AndyM]

Well, here's a couple quickie photos of the mock-up stage. The needed cuts to make the Lian-Li parts fit are done (the 5.25 bay panels need a bit of trimming). I also cut down the fan housing so the radiator fit in tight to the fan. You can get an idea where the HDD's are going in the second photo.

I'm using a rather trimmed down stock HDD housing for this (fan wings cut off, and now it is a 2-drive housing just in case I get a 8800 GTX sized video card in the future). I may drill holes like Lian-Li V-series HDD housings are so that enough airflow gets though to cool the HDD's, or just buy some more Lian-Li parts. I do want to keep the top of the HDD cage open to see that spiffy Raptor X though, so I'm wondering how sturdy the Lian-Li parts are with the them mounted upside down and nothing supporting them at the top. Whatever HDD housing I end up using, it will be mounted on some silicone bushings to keep the Raptor quiet, and may also be wrapped again as before in Dynamat (really cuts down the noise).

I also need to get some left-angle SATA cables for the HDD's, along with some plumbing items, but a good start on this so far. Maybe in a week or three it will be done :cool:

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j186/amichalski00/single001.jpg

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j186/amichalski00/single002.jpg

[disruptfam]

is that tubing white?

[AndyM]

Nope, just crusty Masterkleer :p:

[starlon]

Has anyone seen UV reactive tubing?

[AndyM]

A little update on the install...

First up is a photo of the HDD cage mounting. I'm using a standard TJ07 HDD base installed on the mid-floor. I added some Antec P180 silicone HDD bushings to mount the cage for some vibe-free mounting. Also pictured is the black USB/audio front panel plug tray. I trimmed the edges down so there would be more clearance for the radiator.

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j186/amichalski00/single_install026.jpg


Using some more of the P180 silicone bushings, I made a mount for the D5 on the edge of the MB tray.

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j186/amichalski00/single_install014.jpg


Here's a shot of the overall configuration to make room for the added 120.1.

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j186/amichalski00/single_install016.jpg


HDD cage in place. The cage is a cut-down TJ07 cage. SATA cables are 'left angle' types, as I didnt want to start chopping apart the MB tray to route them around back. I have just enough clearance for 8800 GTX-sized video cards in the future. Better view of the Raptor X now as well :D

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j186/amichalski00/single_install029.jpg


And now a couple views of the 120.1/343B rad/fan module. A fair amount of modding on this thing. The 343B fan housing was cut down so the radiator would mount onto the fan. Then I drilled out the rivets holding the filter assembly and disposed of that (better airflow). So that the air intake would consist of outside-case air (cooler), I made some baffles for the top and bottom of the fan housing out of some spare 5.25 bay blanks. Since I have the room, I'm using 2 fans for this rad in a push/pull setup. And now in all its glory...

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j186/amichalski00/single_install039.jpg
http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j186/amichalski00/single_install047.jpg


And finally, a shot of the radiator module installed. If you will notice, the TJ07 5.25 bay panels need to be notched so the Lian Li parts can fit.

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j186/amichalski00/single_install053.jpg


More later...

[Makubex_GB]

According to the instructions (at least on my old Laing D5) that's the only way the pump shouldn't be facing.

[AndyM]

According to the instructions (at least on my old Laing D5) that's the only way the pump shouldn't be facing.

Ruh roh.

Just checked the Swiftech instructions...no mention of a preferred mounting direction. These have floating impellers, so.... :shrug:

Anyone have anything more on this?

[Waterlogged]

Ruh roh.

Just checked the Swiftech instructions...no mention of a preferred mounting direction. These have floating impellers, so.... :shrug:

Anyone have anything more on this?

AndyM, Check this out (page 2).

http://www.lainginc.com/pdf/IM-17%20Revised%205-2006.pdf

The reason for this is air can get trapped in there and lead to premature bearing failure. Another reason would be that the water removes some of the motor heat, if there's a air bubble trapped there, far less heat will be remove possibly causing motor failure as well.

[AndyM]

Hmmm, this does present a problem. I'm wondering how much of a problem this is if the remarketers of these things dont mention this under warranty stipulations. Anyone actually burn a pump up mounted like this?

[Waterlogged]

AndyM, I think you'll be fine if you bleed the case on it's side for a few days before you use it like that. If all the air is gone, it can't pose a problem, can it? ;)

[AndyM]

Yeah, no air = probably just fine.

But for good measure...I went to plan B....

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j186/amichalski00/single_install072.jpg


This might just make for a slightly neater tubing setup the way I'm seeing this now. Still have room for a longer video card in the future as well.

I'd like to have the pump where it was, seemed a bit better balanced visually, but now I'm thinking of that spot for a nice install of a BigNG, been eyeing that trinket for a while. Might be interesting dropping the fans to 5 volts as warranted instead of the constant 7 volts they are set up as now. I have the space still...:p:

[Pedalmonkey]

I like it. super clean mounting of everything.

[Makubex_GB]

Looks good. Plan B does seem like the best way to go. :up:

[AndyM]

Got the upgrade pretty much wrapped up. Seems those D-Tek nozzles work pretty good, looks like around ~3C better Orthos temps using the 5.5mm nozzle with the spacer.

And on to the photos....


As luck would have it, easy HDD power cable setup with the drives where they are:

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j186/amichalski00/single_install076.jpg


A bunch of photos of a whole bunch of stuff in a TJ07:

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j186/amichalski00/single_install081.jpg
http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j186/amichalski00/single_install084.jpg
http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j186/amichalski00/single_install082.jpg


Is it Lian Li? Is it TJ07? Best of both I think. :D

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j186/amichalski00/single_install086.jpg

[Yeknom]

That Masterkleer is disgusting :P

[polar bear]

Very neat n tidy. The TJ07 seems to be a great case for this type of setup.

1 or 2 circuits? Both pumps are D5's, right? What sort of temps are you getting?

[Borgod]

Love what you did with the hard drives mate... solves the lack of 5 1/4" bay issue very nicely for several hdd's.

PA120.1 looks very pro-mounted :)

[disruptfam]

are you going to swap out that tubing?

[AndyM]

Thanks guys!

Q's...

It's single loop still with 2 D5's. Temps...in 80F room it's mid 60's depending on which Orthos routine it's doing. Seems about 3C max cooler than before the nozzle treatment. Not too shabby with a 6600 'B' chip with 1.51+ vcore @ 3.8Ghz.

Scuzzy tubing...yep it is :cool: . Too lazy to change it, I'll just wait until the new stuff matches the old :p:

[Yeknom]

How long have you been using the crappy Masterkleer? I don't want mine to die too fast :shrug:

[polar bear]

Thanks guys!

Q's...

It's single loop still with 2 D5's. Temps...in 80F room it's mid 60's depending on which Orthos routine it's doing. Seems about 3C max cooler than before the nozzle treatment. Not too shabby with a 6600 'B' chip with 1.51+ vcore @ 3.8Ghz.

Scuzzy tubing...yep it is :cool: . Too lazy to change it, I'll just wait until the new stuff matches the old :p:

That's impressive! I'm struggling to bring mine (B2) towards 3.8, just wont hold that level and be stable. And thats at >1.6V, guess every chip is different, hey? Again very neat setup - this case must be amazing to work with, a modders dream for sure. I have kept my Tt Armor since I got it maybe 3 yrs ago - still very happy with it but nice to see what can be done with a TJ07, have seen many good mods with it.

[perfection]

that tubing looks digusting, but otherwise, nice work andy

[AndyM]

That's impressive! I'm struggling to bring mine (B2) towards 3.8, just wont hold that level and be stable. And thats at >1.6V, guess every chip is different, hey? Again very neat setup - this case must be amazing to work with, a modders dream for sure. I have kept my Tt Armor since I got it maybe 3 yrs ago - still very happy with it but nice to see what can be done with a TJ07, have seen many good mods with it.


Thanks! When I say 'B', I'm meaning the L627B, not B2 stepping. The B's are seemingly hotter running than A's, at least in that chip's generation. FWIW, max Orthos stable for my particular CPU is 3.85Ghz, but the vcore is goofy at that speed with similar heat output, so I turned down the speed 50Mhz for 24/7 style operation.

[Hijack]

I've been following this thread since it started and like many others, am very impressed. So much so, that I'm going down the same path.

The only change I was thinking (and I believe it was mentioned by someone earlier in the thread) was cutting a ventilation hole in the bottom of the case so that both rads could be set up with fans drawing out through them and venting the warm air back outside. This schematic is based on thinner rads than your thermochills, but even with them, you should still be able to gain sufficient venting up from the bottom. Note, you should place at least a single sheet metal divider vertically up from the center of the vent cut in the base to keep cross-flow from disturbing proper flow between both rads separately. Also, this will require the addition of "feet" to the case so it sits up off the floor. I was thinking of simply pulling off the circular feet from an old receiver. They will look pretty nice.

I'm also modding a front 120mm fan to intake into the top section of the case almost exactly like what you did, but without the single 120mm rad.

What do you think?

http://img167.imageshack.us/img167/1057/tj07coolingtopsidebu0.th.jpg (http://img167.imageshack.us/my.php?image=tj07coolingtopsidebu0.jpg)

http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/7478/tj07coolingrearib9.th.jpg (http://img152.imageshack.us/my.php?image=tj07coolingrearib9.jpg)

[JvT]

i like your idea, especially the "air-guides". With low rpm fans, I don't think the bottom hole will be too small for 5 fans to breathe through. If you want to use high performance fans, I guess that they will have a hard time...

Do think of one thing though: How to build a removable air filter!

With 5 fans sucking air from the floor, you will have a very dust-free area around your TJ07, but you will be needing to clean your radiator VERY often!! When my water cooling adventure started, I mounted a radiator in the bottom of an Antec Sonata case sucking in air. My case was raised quite a bit from the floor, but still I had to tip my case every week to vacuum the radiator. Now, the Antec Sonata case is only a midi sized case so it's not that heavy or hard to tip once a week, but the TJ07 might be a different story. That only applies if you put a filter in the bottom cutout you are going to make. If you do not put an air filter of some kind in the hole, You will be wearing that radiator mount out by removing at least one radiator to get to the other for vacuuming.

So a removable air filter has to be included in your build, for your own sake.

Sorry for using your thread AndyM, to comment on Hijacks idea.

[Pedalmonkey]

just a tray with a peice of mesh that fits in it would be fine. then just stretch a pair of old pantyhose over the mesh for a cheap and free flowing filter.

[AndyM]

A bit of an upgrade this weekend for my machine...


http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j186/amichalski00/E8400007.jpg


The IHS is not nearly as wonky as my E6600 was, but still has high spots in the wrong places

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j186/amichalski00/E8400015.jpg


Now that it is flat, a glob of my favorite TIM...

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j186/amichalski00/E8400035.jpg


Ohhh, shiney!

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j186/amichalski00/E8400038.jpg


An extra 600 Mhz over my old C2D, gotta love 45nm. Room ambients at 79-81F during this testing.

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j186/amichalski00/44_12hours.jpg

[polar bear]

Hey, well done! 600MHz, thats a healthy increase :D And 67C for max cpu temp is not bad at this clock speed.

So did you just get your wolfdale? I've been trying to get my hands on one of these for months now, still it has not arrived at my edealer. I just heard rumours intel has halted production (temporarily) of the 45nm duos.

Also - I guess that is AS5? It just looks so shiny and, well silvery :p: Looks beautiful in fact.

Oh and nice lapping. But why does the IHS looks copper red in 3rd pic? Is it just reflection from something else or did you prep it further after lapping?

All in all seems your weekend has been very productive :clap:

[AndyM]

THanks! The red is the final lapping, the first picture was just to show the high spots on the IHS. The TIM is Coolaboratory Liquid Metal...excellent stuff, I cant say enough good things about it.

I was holding out for an 8500, but as they seem to be vaporware in the USA, I gave in and got an 8400. This chip got me to where I was seeing myself after moving to 45nm, so it worked out well. Saved some $$ too if the 8500 should actually be available sometime, lol.

[Hijack]

TigerDirect has the e8500 in stock now if you're interested. $300 US.

Also, hope you don't mind my intrusion in your thread here, but I've got such enthusiasm for your project, that I can't help but share what I'm finding on my own journery down the same path.

I found this today: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=257&products_id=21082

http://img170.imageshack.us/img170/5204/cfp52b02ch4.th.jpg (http://img170.imageshack.us/my.php?image=cfp52b02ch4.jpg)

I know you've already done a killer job mounting the Lian-Li 120mm front fan bezel in your case and attaching your single fan rad to the back, but this one is a silverstone front itself that you might like. I'm ordering it for my case. (also saves me from having to notch the internals to get the lian-li to fit).

EDIT: Heh, nevermind. I see waaay back in the thread you had already considered this piece! Mia culpa. I do like the look though.

[chouchou]

hate to bring up an old thread but props on the job. looks amazing

[WaterFlex]

Yeah...There are some kind of killer LCS systems.

[BDW88]

Excellent wiring job!

[Ch3ck5um]

Great Job AndyM!

I'm thinking of having bother rads exhausting hot air out each side of the case, drawing cold air in from the top compartment as all fans will be intakes there 2x 92mm rear 2x 120mm top(Including 2 x 120mm fans from 2x antec 900 bays for HDD's)

Do you think this could work well?

[Dangals]

Holy thread revival Batman :eek:

To answer the question the rads in the bottom compartment are fairly isolated from the upper chamber and you are probably better off having both move air in the same direction rather than drawing on the warm internal air...

[Ch3ck5um]

Holy thread revival Batman :eek:

To answer the question the rads in the bottom compartment are fairly isolated from the upper chamber and you are probably better off having both move air in the same direction rather than drawing on the warm internal air...

hmm.. perhaps you are right but it would be top positive pressure heavy using 4x 120mm and 2x 92mm and with 5x 120mm in the lower compartment so I was hoping for some pressure push to get the slightly warm air down there.

The main thing I was concered about with your idea is feeding hot exhaust air into the second rad, are you saying this is not a concern?

[Dangals]

hmm.. perhaps you are right but it would be top positive pressure heavy using 4x 120mm and 2x 92mm and with 5x 120mm in the lower compartment so I was hoping for some pressure push to get the slightly warm air down there.

The main thing I was concered about with your idea is feeding hot exhaust air into the second rad, are you saying this is not a concern?

I have both my rads moving air in the one direction in my TJ07 and there is no noticeable affect on performance - I have tried the air moving both ways as well and temps didnt change between them. Plus the main benefit to using the external air rather than the internal is that you are using fresh air for the first rad rather than air that has passed over every other component in your case to feed both rads...

My :2cents:

[Ch3ck5um]

I went with the PA rad sandwich with both sets of fans blowing in the same direction and your right its very good :)

3x 120mm intake - 2x 120mm exhaust.

[dpokrajac0]

Thats a nice case and nice work on it.

[NaeKuh]

:rofl:

im loving these recient waves of thread revivals...

i think we really did scare the noobs to use the search feature...

[AndyM]

Wow, big blast from the past...has it been 2 years already since I started this build? I pop in to this forum to see what's new in the world of cool computers and my little monster is still going strong, lol. Well, the machine is the same as seen here still, havent done much with it as my latest obsession is RC helicopters lately. It probably needs a good vacuuming, and maybe a bit of water topping-off as I hear an occasional crackle, but other than that, solid machine. Maybe if I get some time I'll clean it up a bit and shoot a few photos of it, should be interesting how grungy that tubing got, havent cracked it open for quite some time. Well, till then, or another year, see ya guys, and thanks for the accolades!