A pop followed by hissing sounds on mach 1:(

[Shalamay]

Ok, I just got my new mobo and finished getting everything hooked up and installed. The mach took a little longer to cool down then normal, but it had not been started in two weeks. After running for about five minutes there was a pop, not to loud and not the normal oil sound, followed by a hissing. The temps jumped quickly and I shut off the computer. I removed the head and restarted the mach, a little more hissing and the temps started to rise. I shut down the unit and the wounded mach is just sitting there.

So, what do I do from here? I compressor got really hot, do you think it is ok? I think the hole is in the line that goes to the head (heat exchanger line?). What gas should I use, as I'm sure that there is not more. I have lots of r502. Any others I might what to use? Thanks for the help.

[Marvin]

I think you have a leak. Fix it or send to someone to do that.

[Xeon th MG Pony]

As marvin has said it is fataly wounded and topping up will not help it. It must be checked out, repaired, leak tested then recharged.

Do not attempt to run it any more as this will make the damage worse.

[Derek]

As it is, the oil will need to be changed, the leak fixed, and the filter replaced. Good luck with it though!

[Xeon th MG Pony]

Well if it is mineral he can get away with out replacing it, just a warming and good vac will do, I find, synthetic it must be replaced as with the F/D.

[burton]

that doesnt sound good find someone that will repair it hopefully

[wdrzal]

Ok, I just got my new mobo and finished getting everything hooked up and installed. The mach took a little longer to cool down then normal, but it had not been started in two weeks. After running for about five minutes there was a pop, not to loud and not the normal oil sound, followed by a hissing. The temps jumped quickly and I shut off the computer. I removed the head and restarted the mach, a little more hissing and the temps started to rise. I shut down the unit and the wounded mach is just sitting there.

So, what do I do from here? I compressor got really hot, do you think it is ok? I think the hole is in the line that goes to the head (heat exchanger line?). What gas should I use, as I'm sure that there is not more. I have lots of r502. Any others I might what to use? Thanks for the help.

first find and confirm the leak there should be a oil stain @ leak you can hear, chances are thats what happened,

if it has a capacitor I heard them pop, and the wire sizzle from a electrical short or the liquid inside a shorted "wet" run capacitor and the that also would cause a motor to over heat .The compressor would not start and run at normal rpm .

It's probably a leak but just wanted to mention there are other explanations for a "pop & sizzle"

Don't run unit until cause is found and repaired

[Blaster]

Original prometeias mach1 bring r134a with POE oil, so you cant put r502 in it.

The trouble of swapping the oil to something compatible with r502 would not be worth.

Have some1 that is used to service cpu cooling phase change units to repair the related leak and have him recharge the unit to your desired capacity (watts) with any of these gases 404/r507/r402a.

Migth want to consider upgrading your Mach1 (if it still in original condition) to a new evap head, suction, insulation, etc.

[Shalamay]

How do I change the oil? Is there a way to charge without a load tester?
I've thought about upgrading the evap. head and suction line, but it did fine on my opty 170. Plus, I wouldn't know who's to use and how much of a gain I would get. I just want to get it running. I'm going to put a desuperheater on it and patch my leak.

[wdrzal]

you can't patch your leak until you remove all the refrigerant,heating refrigerants is extremely toxic and if flammable can be very dangerious also.

you need the correct equiptment,and knowdledge to do the work safely. Tools are not cheap.

[Nosfer@tu]

Get it fixed and sell.

Sell it to phase builder and buy somthingdecent :)

RUMMC does some REAL MAGIC with small conpressors :D

[Shalamay]

My Uncle is doing the work..aka the pro, but he works on big units. I just want to get this one running. Is there a way to set the unit without a load tester or where I can get one? Thanks for all the help!

[Ssilencer]

Is there a way to set the unit without a load tester or where I can get one? Thanks for all the help!

Use your computer as the perfect load tester.

[Shalamay]

I supose I could do that, but shouldn't I put some in frist? So, just turn on the computer and start filling until the temps drop and stablize? I think I might use the x2 3800 if I do it this way, I like my opty to much. Thanks again.

[AliG]

Ok, I just got my new mobo and finished getting everything hooked up and installed. The mach took a little longer to cool down then normal, but it had not been started in two weeks. After running for about five minutes there was a pop, not to loud and not the normal oil sound, followed by a hissing. The temps jumped quickly and I shut off the computer. I removed the head and restarted the mach, a little more hissing and the temps started to rise. I shut down the unit and the wounded mach is just sitting there.

So, what do I do from here? I compressor got really hot, do you think it is ok? I think the hole is in the line that goes to the head (heat exchanger line?). What gas should I use, as I'm sure that there is not more. I have lots of r502. Any others I might what to use? Thanks for the help.
Try using the soap test to isolate the leak. The hissing and rising temps makes it very likely that it's a leak, so where ever the gas is leaking you'll see a bunch of bubbles, so then you'll know exactly which pipe/portion needs to either be replaced or repaired. Then you could either recharge, or probably the smart thing to do would be since it already has impurities by then in it, run the system and see if the leak still shows up. If not, then use a vacuum pump to purge the system (or another compressor with a schrader valve works) and then recharge. If it still leaks, then isolate the other leaks/repair again and keep trying until it works

Hope this helps

[wdrzal]

If it's a factory unit it should have a tag with the amount(weight) & gas of factory charge, I not sure they do that in phase, but seems unlikely they would be allowed in the USA without the tag. if your using the same gas,you can simply weigh in the correct charge.

[kayl]

if you look for an oil leak, that will be where it is, should be easy to find.
Its more than likely near the brazed joints between the copper and stainless steel suction line, the steel cracks.

[Shalamay]

Well, I got all the insulation off and I could not see any oil spots.

AliG - Can I run the unit without gas? I think all the gas is gone and the last time it started the temps climbed real fast and the compressor got really
hot. I don't think I can find the leak that way.

wdrzal - Thank you. I don't remember seeing anything on the tag, but I'll check it again.

Anyone else know what the factory settings are?

kayl - Thanks, I'll check those spots again and more carefully.

Thank you all for your help, let me know if you think of anything esle.

[Nosfer@tu]

If you cant find the tag I belive ALOT of users here on XS knows how much it needs :)

[Shalamay]

I guess we will see Nosfer@tu, but you should be correct, someone will know.

[Shalamay]

Where is a good place to buy replacement parts? Thanks

[Ssilencer]

I supose I could do that, but shouldn't I put some in frist? So, just turn on the computer and start filling until the temps drop and stablize? I think I might use the x2 3800 if I do it this way, I like my opty to much. Thanks again.

Man, you have make a basic static charge before firing up for the first time, it will give you enough capacity to not freeze your computer on start.
Anyway, processors has heat protection since the first athlon... so it is not that easy to burn your outdated, slow and cheap pos opty...
(joke, I have a venice 3200:p: )

[Shalamay]

I know she old and out dated, but she runs strong and does what I need. How much should I start with? So, what you are saying is that I fill it full and then reduce untill it starts? Or just put enough to get it started and then add or subtract from there? Thanks Ssilencer.

[Shalamay]

Ok, i finely got it all back together. How much gas and at what pressure should I set it at? Does anyone know what it was from the factory? Thank you.

[n00b 0f l337]

You have to charge to a load not to a pressure.

[Xeon th MG Pony]

With it not hooked up to any load charge it till it is frosting about 6 inches from the compressor, that will get you in the ball park.

[Shalamay]

I know, but I don't have anyway to make a load. I was told the factory settings were close to 150grams at -5hg or at least that is a good place to start. Another problem is I don't have anything that reads that grams and inches, its all in pounds. After I get everything working, I will the it on the computer and fine tune it. Anyone know what the factory setting was or a ballpark setting for this on an opty 170? How can I make an easy load tester? Thanks.

[Shalamay]

thank you noob and xeon.

[PhilippF]

Anyway, processors has heat protection since the first athlon... so it is not that easy to burn your outdated, slow and cheap pos opty...
(joke, I have a venice 3200:p: )

Wasn´t overheat protection added in the athlon xp? I thought there were a lot of smoked athlons before...

[Xeon th MG Pony]

Actually by using the frost method will get you pretty much dead on, charge it till it is frosted say 2" from the compressor with the head simply sitting in the air. This should offer satisfactory results.

[Shalamay]

Ok, what do you mean 2" from the compressor? Where it frost up on the return? We found a gauge with hg and it is at about 4 right now. I have know idea of how much we put in, wasn't alot. It's at -36, so I'm going to hook it put to the computer and see it works. Thanks for all the help. Let me know if there's anything else.

[Shalamay]

Oh, I never said what the problem was. The flex tube/line broke off where it was welded. Just heated it up, pull the broken line out, cleaned up both ends and welded it back in. Thanks again.

[Xeon th MG Pony]

yes on the suction line, charge untill it frosts up 2 inches away from it with no load on the head.

[Shalamay]

Ok, the unit says -36 and the evap is frosted over good, but the head is hot. I never remember the head being hot. So I have it all connected and start it, temp on the unit is staying at -36 but the mb is saying 86 and auto shuts down. Whats going on??? Why is the head hot? Thanks.

[Xeon th MG Pony]

did you charge it as stated with no load on it, and, did you ensure a solid clean mount. I suspect a poor mount, as it should have plenty in it to at the very least keep the proc at 0C!

[Shalamay]

Ok, I think the mb is flipping out. It read 130c for about 5min then shut off, I shut off the cooler (reading -38) and removed the head in about 30sec. The processor is cold, like ice...there is no way it can be 130c and be ice cold in 30sec. time. I should not be able to touch the processor. I think you are correct Xeon, the frist time it was not down all the way, but it is on correctly now. I disabled the mb shut off, if it gets to hot the processor will shut off. Thanks

[Shalamay]

ok, i have know idea of whats going on.

[Shalamay]

Anyone have any ideas??? Please? I have an Opty 170 on an Abit Fatal1ty AN8SLI. I know the processer is not hot, I'm thinking that it is this board, it's new. It won't read negative temps and I've updated the bios. I'm thinking I don't like this board. Anyone know something I should try or why this is not working? Thank you.

[boshuter]

Ok, the unit says -36 and the evap is frosted over good, but the head is hot. I never remember the head being hot. So I have it all connected and start it, temp on the unit is staying at -36 but the mb is saying 86 and auto shuts down. Whats going on??? Why is the head hot? Thanks.

Not sure what you mean by evap is frosted but the "head" is hot?

It sounds to me like your cap tube is either broke, or you burned it into before it reaches the evap.

[Shalamay]

The evap is frosted, but the outside around edges or on top or the head (housing) is hot. I know it has a heating element, but it never got hot, maybe warm, but not hot. Thank all of you for the help. I took it off and let it sit late night. This morning I cleaned everything up and will try again later. Thanks again.

[Xeon th MG Pony]

Hmm again check to make sure that it is frosting all the way up but 1"/2" away from the compressor, failing that your heater may have become internaly shorted.

[Shalamay]

It's game over for me. The opty is dead :( It won't even start now, just shows the frsit screen and off it goes. I put everything back together, was getting negatvie temps now. Everything was at stock speed, ran prime and it crashed. Now it won't even start. Maybe it did run at those temps, but I was on the computer awhile last night and everything was ok. I don't know what else has changed, but I'm sure the opty is dead. Anyone want to make my a quad core cooler or can I just use my Mach 1? Ok, the mach 1 part is a joke, man if I could have seen the looks on your faces.

[Shalamay]

How cold can an opty be?

[Shalamay]

It is working now. I put a very small senor on a wire to the temp unit (i don't know its name or anything else about it) with the reading point in the middle of the processor, put the head back on and tried again. Everytime the sensor reads -40c (unit shows -45) and everest shows the processor drop below -35c it shuts off and won't start again unill the sensor reads -10c. Is the processor getting to cold? AMD's don't like it as cold as Intel, correct? Thanks again for all the help.

[[XC] gomeler]

Oh man. I wonder if you've been coldbugging. Just now read through this thread and you are describing perfect coldbugging temperatures. My old winnie would coldbug at -25C in a heavily OC'ed state but was capable of running around -3xC at stock speeds. Basically the higher the FSB the less forgiving the memory controller was. I had to specifically tune the system so that under idle the system didn't drop below -25 celsius otherwise it'd promptly crash. I believe the coldbugging was blamed on the SOI process in combination with the onboard memory controller. I think that is your problem, you can either detune the system or crank the vcore and run it 100% loaded all the time never letting it idle.

[Shalamay]

Thanks gomeler. Yea, I can't seem to overclock at all. My vcore is at 1.65 at stock speed just so it can run. So, how do I detune a little bit? Add more pressure or less gas? Thanks for all the help.

[Shalamay]

Anyone know the best way to detune the cooler? I think thats what I need.

[X_Man]

Ok, I just got my new mobo and finished getting everything hooked up and installed. The mach took a little longer to cool down then normal, but it had not been started in two weeks. After running for about five minutes there was a pop, not to loud and not the normal oil sound, followed by a hissing. The temps jumped quickly and I shut off the computer. I removed the head and restarted the mach, a little more hissing and the temps started to rise. I shut down the unit and the wounded mach is just sitting there.

So, what do I do from here? I compressor got really hot, do you think it is ok? I think the hole is in the line that goes to the head (heat exchanger line?). What gas should I use, as I'm sure that there is not more. I have lots of r502. Any others I might what to use? Thanks for the help.

I just had the same problem with my Mach II GT over the weekend. There was no pop - just the cooling unit taking about 8 secs to drop 1 degree (evap head). Since it took too long to reach -20, the Mach shut off. Gomeler and I looked at it yesterday - and quickly he found a leak in the capillary tubing (the hissing sound gave it away). Other than the Chip Controller going bad, the constant bending of the capillary tubing is the second most common issue with the phase change technology.

[n00b 0f l337]

I just had the same problem with my Mach II GT over the weekend. There was no pop - just the cooling unit taking about 8 secs to drop 1 degree (evap head). Since it took too long to reach -20, the Mach shut off. Gomeler and I looked at it yesterday - and quickly he found a leak in the capillary tubing (the hissing sound gave it away). Other than the Chip Controller going bad, the constant bending of the capillary tubing is the second most common issue with the phase change technology.
I'd actually say the flexible line on the Mach's and in many other units is the downfall.

[[XC] gomeler]

I just had the same problem with my Mach II GT over the weekend. There was no pop - just the cooling unit taking about 8 secs to drop 1 degree (evap head). Since it took too long to reach -20, the Mach shut off. Gomeler and I looked at it yesterday - and quickly he found a leak in the capillary tubing (the hissing sound gave it away). Other than the Chip Controller going bad, the constant bending of the capillary tubing is the second most common issue with the phase change technology.

Was actually the suction line that had a nice hole in one of the joints on the Mach II, right at the base.

[Shalamay]

Ok, I have the unit fixed, but I don't know if it's too cold or if I messed up the processor. I now believe I damaged the processor because it woun't take any over clock at all and sometimes just won't start. I don't know at this point. Thank you all for the help.

[Shalamay]

Ok, I have an update. I put my X2 3800+ back in and and right off the get go put it at 3.1 at 1.5v and bam, no problems and everything works just great. I put the opty in another system and it runs fine, just won't overclock any. The chip its self looks good, no burn marks or cracks and no bent or damaged pins. Thank you to all of you that have helped.