Barb Preparation

[PhoenixC6]

Ok, so I have read a million posts about this topic and it seems they all have differing opinions. So, I would like suggestions for installing my barbs. Here is what I have:

D-Tek High Flow for my MCW30
D-Tek High Flow for my Fuzion (duh!)
D-Tek High Flow for my other Fuzion (duh!)
AquaExtreme 3/8 for my MCR320's
The swiftech plastic ones that came with the resevoirs.

So...lets hear it!

:eek:

[IanY]

Swiftech barbs for Swiftech blocks and Swiftech rads, buddy. Swiftech makes very nice high quality metal barbs now.

[PhoenixC6]

links! i did see the metal barbs for the 1/4" stuff, but it was all out of stock. i have all the plastic stuff still, my barbs are arriving today from PT.

[AndyM]

Whatever you use, try RTV on them instead of o-rings or tape. No leaks, and you can tighten them enough that tubing torque wont loosen them. Permatex Ultra Black RTV from the auto parts store is nice.

[Sparky]

I have a set of G1/4 swifty barbs I got for my MCW60. Wasn't impressed, the workmanship was shoddy compared to the D-tek barbs - the bore was a little off-center on the one, the inside of the bore was a little rough, and they weren't exactly round either. The threads were fine though.

IMO can't get anything better than the D-tek or EK barbs :)

[IanY]

Ahh.. so your MCRs use the older G-3/8" barbs... ok I understand you wanting to use Aquaextremes.

However, your MCW30s should be able to use G-1/4 Swiftech barbs. Order it from some other store, or from the company store itself. The barbs on the Apogee GTX are first rate.

[PhoenixC6]

i think just the MCR220 has switched over to 1/4. the MCR320's still use 3/8. i think...

[hoax]

IMO can't get anything better than the D-tek or EK barbs :)

qft! dtek barbs > EK > all others

[PhoenixC6]

with the o-rings, do I need any material on the threads?

[Circaflex]

i would recommend some plumbing solution, last time i used a block with o-rings instead of tape after a month the torque from the tubing and worm drives cause the barb to come undone, killing some of my equipment.

[G4h4o8s6T]

So o-rings + tape or RTV will be sufficient??

BTW, thanks for starting this thread Phoenix, I was wondering the same thing :p:

[Sparky]

You don't need any tape on O-ring sealed barbs. It won't do any good really and little shreds of it can end up getting into your loop.

I used O rings only, nothing else, and no leaks the first time around on my first loop ever :)

[PhoenixC6]

i do worry about the barbs backing out. but i also want to be able to remove the barbs. keep the experiences coming!

right now we have 1 for no stuff and 2 for stuff! what that stuff is, well, thats still up in the air.

[hoax]

+1 for no tape on o-ring barbs..

but I am still filling up my very first loop for the very first time today :p:

[Ouchy]

When I used just o-rings for the first-time the tubing torqued off the barbs on my blocks too, but I was lucky and lost no equipment. It really depends on your loop setup. I had one pretty tricky bend so it was almost inevitable that it would have gone loose; however, the tape probably would have helped hold it in place. It's really up to you. You can definitely have a leak-free system with just o-rings and this is actually the recommended method. I still prefer to use the tape, not exactly for creating a better seal, but just to prevent barbs from loosening as easily. You can negate some of that by just tightening the barbs down really hard though. If you decide to use tape, you do get small fragments in your loop sometimes, but I don't find it that annoying.

Your decision, both have their benefits.

[ColonelCain]

So wait, Dtek barbs are the way to go?

[justin_c]

yeah, dtek or ek barbs?

[Jedda]

If you torque o-ringed barbs down 'really hard', you'll over compress the 0-ring creating leak potential.
Run them in to finger tight then half a turn more with a spanner.
I find D-tek barbs the best made. Aqua-Xtreme very similar quality.