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View Full Version : Is my MCP655 dead?!?!? Please god no....



kuhla
02-07-2007, 10:35 PM
So I'm setting up my first watercooling setup after some of the parts have been sitting around for almost 5 months now (*sigh* yes I know its pathetic I took this long). The parts I have consist of:

MCP655 pump
STORM Rev 2 with DD "Heavy Duty" metal barbs
PrimoFlex 1/2" ID PVC tubing
DD fillport with y-line

So I started my leak test a few days ago and it leaked around rad, stupid me I forgot to put some plumbers tape around the rad barbs. Everything else had been running fine. I was trying to bleed the system (during/before the leak test) by pouring water in to submerge the pump (EDIT: I submerged it internally, as in, poured water into the tubes until I saw that there was water "sitting" in the pump. I did not put the whole pump under water :roll: ) then run it for a half second, then turn it off again, fill some more, rinse-repeat. That is how I understand filling works (am I right?).

Well anyways today I have a bucket of water (very clean bucket, used distilled water, don't worry about that). I hooked up just the pump and two maybe 1ft long lengths of tube, made sure the pump was submerged (internally, not externally... no water touched the outside) and turned it on. Nothing happened. I can hear it whining and I can feel the torque of the motor when it switches on but no water is moving. I took the outlet out of the water and nothing was moving.

is it dead?... please say no and it was somehow user error... i really don't want to sink anymore money into this.... anymore and i will just start over or go back to air....

sdkevin
02-07-2007, 10:39 PM
your pump was submerged in the water?!?!

kuhla
02-07-2007, 10:40 PM
your pump was submerged in the water?!?!

*sigh* I had a feeling someone might read it that way. The pump was never "submerged" externally, I just submerged it internally. You know, get water "inside" the pump eh?

sdkevin
02-07-2007, 10:44 PM
maybe submerge is not a word for MCP655 pump :) make sure you have water feed to the pump

Warning: DO NOT RUN DRY!

kuhla
02-07-2007, 10:50 PM
Example of what I just did:

http://img244.imageshack.us/img244/5219/pumpbrokeithinkng6.gif

See that? Imagine me holding like that, just like that, at that angle. When I flip the switch on the PSU that water will not shoot out.

exhausted mule
02-07-2007, 11:11 PM
was the inlet submerged and tubing full of water?

if so. and your sure the pump was "submerged" and you dont mind voiding your warranty (if you still have one)

take it apart and see if the rotor didn't some how break from its shaft and bearing assembly.

Petra
02-08-2007, 12:03 AM
and you dont mind voiding your warranty (if you still have one) take it apart
Opening the impeller housing of the D5 does not void the warranty, as it's a necessary part of pump maintenance... Just like how opening up a Danger Den or Swiftech waterblock doesn't void any warranty. :stick:

exhausted mule
02-08-2007, 01:11 AM
Opening the impeller housing of the D5 does not void the warranty, as it's a necessary part of pump maintenance... Just like how opening up a Danger Den or Swiftech waterblock doesn't void any warranty. :stick:


even better ;)

Bail_w
02-08-2007, 01:12 AM
How do i benefits the warranty for my MCP655 from swiftech? my pump just getting louder and louder everytime i re-do my loop.

calvin
02-08-2007, 04:20 AM
There seems to be a piece of the story missing. How do you go from leaking barbs to the pump hanging over a bucket? Why not just throw some tape on the barbs and get on with it? You even go as far as to say "Everything else had been running fine" outside of the barb issue :confused:

btw filling a pump with water is known as "priming" a pump and is necessary with many pumps. Submerging implies something different.

kuhla
02-08-2007, 10:24 AM
There seems to be a piece of the story missing. How do you go from leaking barbs to the pump hanging over a bucket? Why not just throw some tape on the barbs and get on with it? You even go as far as to say "Everything else had been running fine" outside of the barb issue :confused:

There is a piece of the story missing but I didn't think it was relevant. I moved from a setup consisting of 1/2" and 3/8" (which had reducers in it) to an all 1/2 setup. It was poor planning on my part to go with two sizes in the first place but yea. The reason I was running the pump in a bucket with some of the old tubing was to check out the pump noise ("whine") more.


btw filling a pump with water is known as "priming" a pump and is necessary with many pumps. Submerging implies something different.

Sorry, water newb. I will try not to make such errors again.


I have pretty much given up on the pump. Last night I was a bit frantic but looking at it this morning, logic is dictating to me that the pump is d-e-a-d. So time to change the topic a tiny bit.... I am not severly space limited (if that matters) but should I get the same pump again? Something better out there?

Mekrel
02-08-2007, 10:46 AM
Opening the impeller housing of the D5 does not void the warranty, as it's a necessary part of pump maintenance... Just like how opening up a Danger Den or Swiftech waterblock doesn't void any warranty. :stick:

Really? I bought a 975x chipset block and maze5 and they has tamper tape on the sides, saying warranty void if removed! :confused:

Glad to know it isn't the case.

[XC]Atomicpineapple
02-08-2007, 10:56 AM
All the warranty stickers mean is that its guarenteed to be leakproof when recieved. Open the block, break the seals and your leak-proof guarentee is gone. You still have your materials and manufacturing defects warranty though.

STEvil
02-08-2007, 02:46 PM
You just dont have it primed is all. Hopefully..

You are supposed to fill as much of the loop as possible without the pump running or starting it. When it is no longer possible to fill, then you can start it and run a bit so as to add more.

What you have done may have caused the pump to run dry momentarily every time you started it. The ceramic bearing behind the impeller may have been damaged, or even the cup the bearing sits in which is on the impeller. It would be a good idea to take the pump apart and inspect the bearing and cup for wear marks.

hopper
02-08-2007, 06:24 PM
with mine when i prime it sometimes a have to start it and stop it a few times to make it actually start flowing....just the first time after primeing turning it to low seemed to help also.... i dont know but they eigther need to be started and stoped a few times then it just kicks,,, at first i think it cant overcome the rad if theres some air in it

ShaneS
02-08-2007, 08:04 PM
Example of what I just did:

http://img244.imageshack.us/img244/5219/pumpbrokeithinkng6.gif

See that? Imagine me holding like that, just like that, at that angle. When I flip the switch on the PSU that water will not shoot out.



OMG...You have a flipper for an arm! :D

hopper
02-09-2007, 05:14 AM
setup a proper test loop,, keep in mind the pump intake has to be attached to a res or t-line so when it starts up it can suck in extra water,, try it on low or medium,, try starting it and stoping it for 1-2 second bursts if it dosnt pump right off when it starts to go the pump becoms quiet and dosnt sound all whoshy