How to volt mod IC7 Vmem

[Charles Wirth]

Before you turn off your machine set the default vmem to 2.6v

Locate R50 on the motherboard that sits between the DIMM3 memory slot and the winbond chip. You will see a surface mount resistor and the spot designation of R50 silkscreened into the motherboard.

Now that you have located R50 you need to desolder it and not harm the other components close by. I suggest a very pointy soldering iron and solderwick tapped on each side rather than prying with soldering iron at both sides quickly untill it falls off.

Hopefully you have 2 nice clean pads to use as contact points.

Use a continuity meter and test the back pad for ground (one farthest from winbond chip).

Check the 1K vr and set it to 250 ohms and connect the center pin to the contact pad closest to the winbond chip (doesnt ring as ground with continuity test to ground) and the ground pin you setup vr at 250 ohms to the ground pad or a ground of your choice.

If you did not reset bios before you turned off your machine, reset bios to default while your hands are still in the area.

Fire up and you should be reading 2.67v in bios. This should be a safe voltage for anyone to start out with.

Last note about this volt mod is that it is the opposite of other volt mods. Meaning if you increase the value on the VR (250 Ohm to 300Ohm) it will increase the voltage to the memory.

Thanks JCViggen, Macci, and BMG for notes posted.

I will upload pics.

[bmg]

I've also done the ddr VTT mod to my board to keep it at Vmem/2. Unfortunately it's not as easy as Vmem, requiring a trace on the board to be cut and soldering to pin 7 on the W83303D chip. I tried to take some pictures when I did it, but couldn't get my d*mn camera to focus properly, even with macro mode enabled.

[Charles Wirth]

R50 location

http://fugger.netfirms.com/r50.jpg

Bad pic of the wires in place.

http://fugger.netfirms.com/done.jpg

[ztop]

Originally posted by bmg
I've also done the ddr VTT mod to my board to keep it at Vmem/2. Unfortunately it's not as easy as Vmem, requiring a trace on the board to be cut and soldering to pin 7 on the W83303D chip. I tried to take some pictures when I did it, but couldn't get my d*mn camera to focus properly, even with macro mode enabled.


great job! do you have other immages more clear???
thanks:cool:

[Yozza]

How much will one gain from the DRAM VTT mod?

[Manoj]

I was hoping more of a bios mod to increase the VDD voltage.

Anyway can you update more pictures?

Desolder the R50 resistor meaning you have to remove it only? I am not good in this but I am going to be asking someone to do the mod for me.

Can you update some more pictures so that I can show my friend?

[Charles Wirth]

The R50 resistor has to be removed. It is a 0 Ohm and basicly does nothihng unless a higher value is installed.

Currently the IC7 undervolts the memory and there is no BIOS update to increase the value beyond 1.8v (1.76v actual)

If you remove the resistor you MUST install something in its place or just bridge the contact pads with solder.

If the circuit is left open it will cause serious damage to the memory and possibly to the motherboard.

I suggest starting out between 200 and 300 Ohms to be safe.

I will try to get better pictures.

[ztop]

thanks FUGGER...i'm waiting new immages:thumbsup:

[JCviggen]

As a note of warning


Be careful when you unsolder the resistor.

I killed my good friend Jupiler's IC7 doing the Vmod on his board. Worked great on mine, but on his I used his soldering iron which got much hotter. I think that the solder of the pads melted completely which worked them loose a bit. (my soldering iron is less hot and only melts the surface)

Anyway the pads came off and despite my attempts to get some sort of contact point beneith the surface, I was unable to revive the board :(

So do be careful not to pull off your soldering pads or smth...

[Manoj]

I got my Abit IC7-G modded.

Now this is what I get for memory voltage:

2.5V = 2.7V
2.55.V = 2.75V
2.6V = 2.8V
2.65V = 2.85V
2.7V = 2.9V
2.8V = 3V

This is how I have set my resistor.

I can raise it more so that I can have the 2.8V to read 3.2V but I don't want to take a risk.

Currenly I am running my rams at 2.5V which the hardware monitor shows 2.7V.

I can run my Twinmos rams at DDR 500 at 2.65V which the hardware monitor shows 2.85V.

I am surprised that my Twinmos PC3700 can't run at CL-2 at DDR 500 even when I increase the Voltage. It just runs well at SPD timing.

I just want to ask if the VTT (DDR) not being half of the DDR voltage is a problem or not?

Normally it should be half. If the DDR voltage in the hardware monitor shows 2.85V, the VTT (DDR) is actually at 1.32V. Is this okay?

Are you guys going to do that VTT (DDR) mod or is it fine if it is left alone?

[Yozza]

I shall be trying this mod out on my IC7-G as soon as my 3.0GHz 800FSB P4 arrives.

How much difference would the VTT mod make though? ... as the termination voltage should be half of the DDR voltage.

My board seems to have DDR voltage fairly smack on the BIOS setting though. Winbond HW Doctor is reporting 2.80V (with ocassional jumps to 2.78 and 2.82) when 2.80 is selected in the BIOS. VTT is at 1.38 - 1.40V.

What it is reporting wrongly though, is my CPU temperarature - 63C under load at 3.06GHz P4 with the big stock cooler. The P4G8X I had previously was reporting ~50C under load. Seems a common problem with all ABIT boards, and this IC7 is no exception as many have discovered :(

[hipro5]

A clearer photo.....

http://www.pctech.gr/hipro5/photos/ABIT%20IC7/Modds/06.jpg

[macci]

bmg or hipro5, did the VTT mod help?

[hipro5]

Originally posted by macci
bmg or hipro5, did the VTT mod help?

No sorry macci....I can't get the datasheets from the company coz they are NOT linked yet......I'm playing on my on to do so......I managed to get 1/2 VTT of my Vmem BUT at a standard Vmem.....If I change from into bios the Vmem then the VTT doesn't change.....I have to find somehow the datasheets to do so....... :(

[Manoj]

Is the VTT mod really needed?

So far not I have modded the VDD but not the VTT and no problems.

[bmg]

I don't think I've pushed Vmem high enough to where VTT made much of a difference. It makes sense that keeping VTT centered at Vmem/2 would be best, but being a little off doesn't seem to matter much. One thing I did notice is that my Vmem seemed to fluctuate quite a bit when I pushed to to around 3.0V or higher. With VTT centered at Vmem/2 the voltage seems more stable, but that's hard to quantify. If VTT is too low then low to high signal transitions will be slowed slightly. High VTT (not a problem here) would slightly slow the high to low signal transitions.

Here's basically what's involved with the VTT mod. Carefully cut the trace between pin 7 of W83303D and MC50. MC50's pad closest to W83303D pin 7 has a trace connected to it which makes a long trip around the board to the temp/voltage/fan monitoring chip. Next to this MC50 pad is a small via in the board which connects to the VTT voltage. The Vmem approach of just adding resistance between this point and pin 7 (VTT sense, or BT_sen) doesn't work, since the internal resistance to ground of the W83303D pin 7 is too large. Basically I connected small gauge wires to pin 7 and the MC50 pad closest to the W83303D (after cutting the trace connecting them). Mount a 1k pot in a convenient place and connect these wires to it. Solder a fixed resistor (approximately 8k-10k) from pin 7 to ground. I found it convenient to solder it to the pot rather than to pin 7 directly. Increasing the pot's resistance will now increase VTT. Once this pot and the Vmem pot are both set VTT and Vmem will track properly when the voltage is changed in the bios.

This mod will be difficult to do without the proper equipment. Soldering to pin 7 is especially difficult to do without a very fine tipped soldering iron and using magnification. Shorting pin 7 to adjacent pins will probably be disastrous. Obviously cutting the pc trace from pin 7 to MC50 must be done carefully. Standard disclaimers apply.

hipro5, pm or email me your email address and I'll email you the W83303D datasheets.

[Manoj]

Originally posted by bmg
I don't think I've pushed Vmem high enough to where VTT made much of a difference. It makes sense that keeping VTT centered at Vmem/2 would be best, but being a little off doesn't seem to matter much. One thing I did notice is that my Vmem seemed to fluctuate quite a bit when I pushed to to around 3.0V or higher. With VTT centered at Vmem/2 the voltage seems more stable, but that's hard to quantify. If VTT is too low then low to high signal transitions will be slowed slightly. High VTT (not a problem here) would slightly slow the high to low signal transitions.

Here's basically what's involved with the VTT mod. Carefully cut the trace between pin 7 of W83303D and MC50. MC50's pad closest to W83303D pin 7 has a trace connected to it which makes a long trip around the board to the temp/voltage/fan monitoring chip. Next to this MC50 pad is a small via in the board which connects to the VTT voltage. The Vmem approach of just adding resistance between this point and pin 7 (VTT sense, or BT_sen) doesn't work, since the internal resistance to ground of the W83303D pin 7 is too large. Basically I connected small gauge wires to pin 7 and the MC50 pad closest to the W83303D (after cutting the trace connecting them). Mount a 1k pot in a convenient place and connect these wires to it. Solder a fixed resistor (approximately 8k-10k) from pin 7 to ground. I found it convenient to solder it to the pot rather than to pin 7 directly. Increasing the pot's resistance will now increase VTT. Once this pot and the Vmem pot are both set VTT and Vmem will track properly when the voltage is changed in the bios.

This mod will be difficult to do without the proper equipment. Soldering to pin 7 is especially difficult to do without a very fine tipped soldering iron and using magnification. Shorting pin 7 to adjacent pins will probably be disastrous. Obviously cutting the pc trace from pin 7 to MC50 must be done carefully. Standard disclaimers apply.

hipro5, pm or email me your email address and I'll email you the W83303D datasheets.

How come my VDD voltage is not fluctuating? It is stable.

[jdmcnudgent]

so if im getting this correctly, you totally take out the old resistor. then use those two wires, and they get soddered to the legs of the pot, and your done?? which leg of the pot does not get used?? i am getting this board on friday, and im gonna modd it right outta the box, i want an extremely high oc.:cool:

[jdmcnudgent]

anyone know the exact part number that i need from radio shack??

[hipro5]

Originally posted by jdmcnudgent
anyone know the exact part number that i need from radio shack??

You can solder a trimmer(10turns).....The midlle pin of it and one of the others(doesn't matter which).....300 Ohms trimmer...... ;)

[cpulloverclock]

Originally posted by Yozza
I shall be trying this mod out on my IC7-G as soon as my 3.0GHz 800FSB P4 arrives.

How much difference would the VTT mod make though? ... as the termination voltage should be half of the DDR voltage.

My board seems to have DDR voltage fairly smack on the BIOS setting though. Winbond HW Doctor is reporting 2.80V (with ocassional jumps to 2.78 and 2.82) when 2.80 is selected in the BIOS. VTT is at 1.38 - 1.40V.

What it is reporting wrongly though, is my CPU temperarature - 63C under load at 3.06GHz P4 with the big stock cooler. The P4G8X I had previously was reporting ~50C under load. Seems a common problem with all ABIT boards, and this IC7 is no exception as many have discovered :( my VTT voltage is at 1.61v when I choose 1.65v for the vagp

vagp 1.65v = VTT 1.65v = vagp 1.37v :confused:
It's strange

[bmg]

Yes the display of Vagp and Vtt are swapped. Abit has been notified of this.

[cpulloverclock]

Originally posted by bmg
Yes the display of Vagp and Vtt are swapped. Abit has been notified of this. ok I understand :)

last question

What is the vmem mod for the SI7
I don't find the R50 resistor

:mad:

It's still the same mod?

[jdmcnudgent]

Originally posted by cpulloverclock
ok I understand :)

last question

What is the vmem mod for the SI7
I don't find the R50 resistor

:mad:

It's still the same mod? you wont find it for the si7. this is for the ic7. by the way, i need more info, what om pot do i need from rs?? it was like hipro was speaking tounges when he responded.

[nikhsub1]

Originally posted by jdmcnudgent
you wont find it for the si7. this is for the ic7. by the way, i need more info, what om pot do i need from rs?? it was like hipro was speaking tounges when he responded.
He is saying that you need a 1K VR... either a trimmer VR or a Cerment pot, set to 300Ohms. Radio shack has the 1K trimmer VR's, not sure about the Cerment pots though.

[OPPAINTER]

Originally posted by FUGGER
.
Check the 1K vr and set it to 250 ohms and connect the center pin to the contact pad closest to the winbond chip (doesnt ring as ground with continuity test to ground) and the ground pin you setup vr at 250 ohms to the ground pad or a ground of your choice.


I did this mod last night, I soldered a VR from Pad closest to the Winbond IC to ground, (fan header)
It didn't work.
I had to solder one end of the resistor to the Winbond side Pad and ther other leg of my VR to the other R50 pad.

Can't just solder to the ground of your choice.

OPP

[ThreeDee]

just did Vmod with a 270 ohm resister (except shows 255 on v meter once soldered on mobo)

..so top ddr v is 2.88 now

http://www.nemi.us/imup/abovesideresist2.jpg

[Pita^Norf]

Hi all,

Just done the mod for a friend of mine and was wondering whether the 2 mosfet located under the memory slots (circled in the following pic) are related to the Vdimm and hence give me Vdimm were I to use a multimeter on them?

Oh btw I hope Threedee don't mind me borrowing his pic :)

http://www.angelfire.com/electronic2/alanlam/images/threedees.jpg

Cheers.

[ThreeDee]

Originally posted by Pita^Norf
Oh btw I hope Threedee don't mind me borrowing his pic :)

Cheers.

...not at all ..:toast:

[charlie]

Does anyone have measuring points for vdimm??
C

[RansoM]

I`m going to do this mod, but with a resistor. I need to know what value to use on the resistor to reach 3.1V when set to 2.8V in bios? So if someone could messure what value they have on there vr when they have +0.3V on the Vdimm, would help me a lot :)

[Tedinde]

Gonna try this on a IS7, Pic's and resistors look the same isnt labeled r50 though, but it's the same. I'll let you know how it goes.

[taco]

post pics if sucessful. :toast:

[Charles Wirth]

Ransom 250 Ohm is a good start. measure from there, go down in ohm to increase voltage

[RansoM]

Originally posted by FUGGER
Ransom 250 Ohm is a good start. measure from there, go down in ohm to increase voltage

Is it not the other way around?

Quote:
Last note about this volt mod is that it is the opposite of other volt mods. Meaning if you increase the value on the VR (250 Ohm to 300Ohm) it will increase the voltage to the memory.

If I have to take out the motherboard 3-4 times to change the value of the resitor, it will take up much of my time. Something I don`t have. I need an increase of +0.2V to +0.3V, so does anyone have a value that gives me this increase? Then I would save a lot of time.

[Pita^Norf]

Originally posted by RansoM
Is it not the other way around?

Quote:
Last note about this volt mod is that it is the opposite of other volt mods. Meaning if you increase the value on the VR (250 Ohm to 300Ohm) it will increase the voltage to the memory.

If I have to take out the motherboard 3-4 times to change the value of the resitor, it will take up much of my time. Something I don`t have. I need an increase of +0.2V to +0.3V, so does anyone have a value that gives me this increase? Then I would save a lot of time.

As you can imagine no two boards are the same so the resistance required is different from one board to another, hence why it is more straightforward to use a pot/VR.

Also asking for someone to measure the reistance off their VR (that correspond to your voltage requirements) would involve removal of their board (not an option if you are phase change cooling), and then disconneting the VR from the circuit (board) to get you those measurements, and then you have to contend with the +- 10% accuracy that the VR's work with.

With this in mind I think you would understand why not many members have volunteered. :)

Just my 2 cents.

[Tedinde]

JCviggen

I had it soldered perfect, but as i always do, I just went over it again.


I used to hot of a slodering iron too, killed the pads, but when it came off a trace back to one of the legs came up with it. Luckely i noticed it and where it went.

Here's what it did since i killed my pads. I soldered from the fourth leg down on the chip where i put the red arrow, to a ground leg on one of the mosfets. Started it up and works fine. 290ohm resistor and getting 2.7 volts. @ 2.5 setting when i set it @ 2.8 i get 2.95, gonna try a bigger resistor.

So i got it working. Maybe you will have some luck bringing your friends board back to life you killed. Soldering to that leg takes a steady hand though!!!


This is on a IS7-e by the way, chips in the same spot but mosfets are moved.

The pic is from Hipro5 on page on, TY I'll take one later.

Best i could get my geil 3500 was 232 ddr, now it's up to 240 1:1 on this board. stable. and 300 @ 5:4 with a alpha heatsink.


http://mywebpages.comcast.net/tedinde/photogallery/XFpics/06.jpg

[Tedinde]

Here, pics not the best, laid it on my scanner. Dig camera is over girlfriends house.

[Pita^Norf]

Tedinde,

Nice save !!

BTW do you know the Voltage points where I can measure Vdimm ?

Mosfets either side of R50 ?

[Tedinde]

Dont know the volt points, Just got back and it's still running @ 315fsb with F@H running.

I just put some clear silicon over my solder points just in case. It's in the vapo now running stable. I'll be putting some numbers up later in our intel forum. IS7 thread i started.

Tested @ 295fsb and was getting 6400 in sisoft. I'll be putting some pics up too soon as i can log into my comcast web page storage, seems to be down.

Unless the whole world is hitting my couple of beta bio's i put up hehe.!!!

[Creative]

Hey nice going Ted....Im glad you sorted it out...:)

If Im looking at your scanned pic correct, it seems you have have just done the mod by connecting some wires to the actual Wibond IC chip and not lifted any resistors?

Or if I read it correct, you couldnt actually use the resistor bit anymore so you did it the way in the pic above with the wires to the an ic leg on the WInbond chip?

Can you confirm this pls? Cos ure way looks way easier and I would prob do it that way with a grabber :D!!!

Cheers

:)

[taco]

post a pic of the mod whenever you get your camera back..

[Tedinde]

No i took off the resistor, If you dont it will just stay grounded out. If you flip the board over, you will see that the right side of the resistor on the IS7 connects to the ground leg of the mosfet.

When i gave it too much heat, The trace on the board came up and was just hanging there with the solder pad, with a magnifying glass, i noticed it went back to the fourth leg down on the chip.

It's easy to desolder the resistor, then use the SMD grabber to the 4th leg down in my pic.

The only reason i had to do a second solder to begin with was i noticed i was touching the mosfet side with my wire, so upon desoldering my wire, i killed the pad.

Be careful, low heat!!!!! But if i had to do another i'd use the smd grabber, then if i had to make the board stock again, it's easyh enought to solder the zero ohm resistor back.

Still working fine By the way!!!!

[Creative]

So I take off the resistor with the solder iron.......and then just use an SMD grabber on leg4 of the Winbond chip as you have done......then run a ground wire from the leg of that mosfet to the anwhere on the case that will give a grounding?

Can I do it this way;

Lift the resistor off.......and then use my POT and wires I have already setup from the 9700 mod....eg red and black wire go to POT and the black wire goes to a fan header and the red wire to the 4th leg on the Winbond chip.....

If so then this is very easy :):)

[naughty_guy]

I have a question, so besides from replacing a resistor with 200-300ohm the 0ohm resister, (the one that many pix have reported), i have to connect one end to the Leg4 of the Winbond chip??

Isn't this a 1 step only mod? Is the Leg4 mod for the VTT?


Last one, and how do the mesaure the voltages?

[Creative]

naughty_guy, nah Ted only did the leg cos he fooked his resistor pad or something up.....thats how I read it :)

afaik, all you do is replace the resistor as talked about, but it seems maybe ted has found a new way to do the mod, ala the leg4 etc :)

I think...:stick:
hehehehehe

[Pita^Norf]

Originally posted by Creative
naughty_guy, nah Ted only did the leg cos he fooked his resistor pad or something up.....thats how I read it :)

afaik, all you do is replace the resistor as talked about, but it seems maybe ted has found a new way to do the mod, ala the leg4 etc :)

I think...:stick:
hehehehehe

Yeah Ted had fuxored his solder pads and saved his board using his method. :thumbsup:

This is no criticism on anyone but personally I never use smd gabbers for any mod since there is always a risk of it working loose and shorting something......this is the last thing you need if you've left your machine running and not at home.

[freecableguy]

:banana:

I was able to successfully mod my IC7-G. I replace R50 with a 331ohm 0402 SMT resistor. I now can run my 2 sticks of 512MB Corsair XMS3500C2 at 2.85 volts instead of 2.75 (if I select 2.7 in BIOS). My voltage now goes as high as about 2.94-2.92 when I select 2.80 via BIOS. Awesome mod. It only took me about 5 mins, not including taking the system apart to get the motherboard out and getting it all back together. Total time, 30 mins.

-kjb

[Tedinde]

So I take off the resistor with the solder iron.......and then just use an SMD grabber on leg4 of the Winbond chip as you have done......then run a ground wire from the leg of that mosfet to the anwhere on the case that will give a grounding?

The two wires you see are off a old fan 3 pin connector so i can switch resistors by just plugging them in.

Just solder one wire to the 4th leg, and the other to a ground leg on the mosfet, or any ground on the MB, Screw hole works too.

Just about every mod on every board i did before this was to a leg on the IC chip to a ground, so this was no different.

[naughty_guy]

Hey guys, thanks, so if i didn't fuxor up anything, then i just change the 0ohm resistor at the R50 place with a 200-350ohm resistor. But I would like to know how can i measure the voltage?? Where do i put the points and do i measure voltage when the motherboard is on?

Thx muchies

[Xenogias]

I did the mod last week by soldering a 1kOhm VR in place of the 0 Ohm resistor. So far I have the VR cranked almost all the way and am running at 3.22v on my dimms which is exactly what my 3.3v rail is reading on my psu so its at the max until i get an adjustable psu or one with higher default rails. As far as stability goes at this voltage, the lines fluctuates only slightly and never gets down lower than 3.18, again, this may correspond to weakness and fluctuation in my 3.3v rail. My board is only about a week old so its possible that abit may have changed something in the voltage regulation circuitry that has cut down on the fluctuations OPP and others have mentioned at high vdimms.

unfortunately, this has not helped my overclock at all. I think this board is screwy if you aren't running 1:1, or if you're not dual channel. I have 1 512MB stick of OCZ EL-3700 (yes I know this stick doesn't like anything over 2.9v) that has hit DDR 480 2-6-3-2 on my it-7max 2 v.2 and I have also tested some other 256MB modules rated for DDR 400. None of them will post at the 4:5 or 3:4 ratio, regardless of voltage or timings (unless I underclock my cpu to 100mhz fsb and use the 4:5 ratio...ugh). They will also not post if i use any of the new "game accelerator" options, even the most lax ones. I remember reading another thread about an overclocking "hole" in one of the canterwood boards when using 533mhz chips, maybe this is the similar. I'd appreciate some feedback on this. If its a common problem than I'll hold on to this until i grab a new cpu and go dual channel. If not, then I need to rma.

[Tedinde]

Hey JC have you tried this on the board you Fuxored up yet?? Hopefully my screw up might of fixed yours

[Radelon]

What I wanna know is, can I do the mod without having to mess with that resistor and just use grabbers? Or is that resistor thing a must.

[HWF]

You gotta remove the resistor it is a 0 ohm. Its like a real tuff place to get to. These guys are extreme here, I followed a thread where there modding the Prom cooler so it can get COLDER:banana: :eek:

But from what I've seen this is the place to get help from the extreme PRO'S.

First post by the way you all are truly extreme. Good work, and I'm lovin every mimute of it..

[hipro5]

WELCOME to the Xtreme Systems forums HWF........ :D :toast:

[Major]

HWF Glad to see you here !

Its a disease, a sickness of the mind and body ! :toast:

[David302]

I already finished the volt mod in my IC7-G and the it´s works :D .... this is my last 3dmark, I need to change the stock cooling of the 9800 http://service.futuremark.com/compare?2k1=6622046

[Kin Hell]

k lads, I need a tad of help here as to exactly which type of VR to use. I have 2 x 1K VR's marked thus:

1) LIN A 1K
2) @1L B 1 K

Both pots have 3 legs

Is either of these the right 1K pot to use?

Many ta's in advance.....Cheers! :toast:

[Kin Hell]

Originally posted by David302
I already finished the volt mod in my IC7-G and the it´s works :D .... this is my last 3dmark, I need to change the stock cooling of the 9800 http://service.futuremark.com/compare?2k1=6622046

Looking at ure 3DMark, can yo explain how you got a 21000+ 3Dmark score when ure FSB is showing at 7?!?!?!?!?!?!?

Top Banana Dude!:banana:
:D

[David302]

I don´t know whats happen :confused: the FSB is on 262 and on this PCmark http://service.futuremark.com/compare?pcm=1348829 is different with 10 mhz

[NyCUndaGrounD]

Ok i did the mod on my ic7-g too andi hope i did it right since its my first time desoldering anything. I went to my local Radio shack and got a new solder tip, 10k pot, and a pack of 330 phm resistors ( 1/2 watt, 5% tolerance). Can u guys tell me if i did it right. There are no traces between the contact pads.


http://home.earthlink.net/~ln2prometeia/images/IMG_0614.JPG

http://home.earthlink.net/~ln2prometeia/images/IMG_0620.JPG

:toast:

[Pita^Norf]

Originally posted by NyCUndaGrounD
Ok i did the mod on my ic7-g too andi hope i did it right since its my first time desoldering anything. I went to my local Radio shack and got a new solder tip, 10k pot, and a pack of 330 phm resistors ( 1/2 watt, 5% tolerance). Can u guys tell me if i did it right. There are no traces between the contact pads.

:toast:

Damn that looks a neat and tidy mod !! :thumbsup:

[Charles Wirth]

NYC, nice job.

HWF, Welcome to Xtremesystems!

[HWF]

Kin Hell

I don't think it matters which 1k ohm pot you use.(Think is the operative here) Some pots have a built in turn ratio say 5 of 10 turns = 1 full turn and are easier to adjust.

Just remember a the higher the resistance set on the pot the higher the voltage. OK nuffsaid.

[HWF]

Thanks for the beers and the warm welcome. I may need to sleep it off.:banana: :toast:

[Kin Hell]

Originally posted by HWF
Kin Hell

I don't think it matters which 1k ohm pot you use.(Think is the operative here) Some pots have a built in turn ratio say 5 of 10 turns = 1 full turn and are easier to adjust.

Just remember a the higher the resistance set on the pot the higher the voltage. OK nuffsaid.

Thanks m8y......the only reason I ask is I have had my 0 Ohm Resistor off the board twice and on both occasions, the board would NOT fire up :confused:
I just had this real bad feelng that attempt #3 might totally f**k those pads beyond repair, but then I saw that Leg 4 & a ground Leg to a Mosfet would do the job too.
Adding to this, my basic Electronic studies many moons ago, led me to believe that Type A VR's were Logritmic & Type B VR's were Linear. Having said that, I could not tell how this would effect the Resistance & to further confuse my predicament, I have a 47K pot I used on my now ex-TH7II-RAID MoBo which is marked "Log B".
Some geezer at Maplin Eletronics confirmed that "Type B" is Linear & "Type A" is Logrithmic
Is there any real need for Type A & Type B if they do the same Job!?
I suppose it's just a case of wanting to do the best job possible without damaging my hardware, but sit here still feeling a tad confused. Perhaps the 2 attempts with failure are clouding the Horizon a bit, but, tbh, I'm sat here with a working PC and consider myself lucky it still functions fine.:bsod:

*edit*
I still need to do this mod tho' & btw, enjoy the beer!:comp10:

[Pita^Norf]

Originally posted by Kin Hell
Thanks m8y......the only reason I ask is I have had my 0 Ohm Resistor off the board twice and on both occasions, the board would NOT fire up :confused:
I just had this real bad feelng that attempt #3 might totally f**k those pads beyond repair, but then I saw that Leg 4 & a ground Leg to a Mosfet would do the job too.
Adding to this, my basic Electronic studies many moons ago, led me to believe that Type A VR's were Logritmic & Type B VR's were Linear. Having said that, I could not tell how this would effect the Resistance & to further confuse my predicament, I have a 47K pot I used on my now ex-TH7II-RAID MoBo which is marked "Log B".
Some geezer at Maplin Eletronics confirmed that "Type B" is Linear & "Type A" is Logrithmic
Is there any real need for Type A & Type B if they do the same Job!?
I suppose it's just a case of wanting to do the best job possible without damaging my hardware, but sit here still feeling a tad confused. Perhaps the 2 attempts with failure are clouding the Horizon a bit, but, tbh, I'm sat here with a working PC and consider myself lucky it still functions fine.:bsod:

*edit*
I still need to do this mod tho' & btw, enjoy the beer!:comp10:

Hi Kin Hell,

LOL at your handle !! :D

Are your pots of the Ceremet flavour?

AFAIK Maplin (when they can be bothered to stock them) only either do 18 or 22 turn 1K ceremet pots.....either one of these will do the job, I used a 22 turn one for finer adjustment.

You mention your board would'nt fire up twice after you removed the R50 from the board ? If on either occasions you did'nt have anything in there to replace R50 then I think it may just be down to there being a break in that circuit.

Good luck on your mod.

Cheers.

[Kin Hell]

Originally posted by Pita^Norf
Hi Kin Hell,

LOL at your handle !! :D

Are your pots of the Ceremet flavour?

AFAIK Maplin (when they can be bothered to stock them) only either do 18 or 22 turn 1K ceremet pots.....either one of these will do the job, I used a 22 turn one for finer adjustment.

You mention your board would'nt fire up twice after you removed the R50 from the board ? If on either occasions you did'nt have anything in there to replace R50 then I think it may just be down to there being a break in that circuit.

Good luck on your mod.

Cheers.

yeah m8....I have had quite a few comments about my Handle. 99.9% of them have been like your comment, but Believe it or Not, I got banned from OCUK forums for using "Kin Hell". Innapropiate name apparently..muppets ffs!:rolleyes:
Needless to say, I did retort in the appropiate manner! :moon: ...and only post there if I'm desperate, which isn't too often thank god! I compromised and re-signed as "Kin"
Going back to the plot tho', on the two occasions I had the R50 Resistor off the mobo, I had tried 2 flavours of VR, so no, it wasn't an open circuit. I'll do a pic or two at next post to visually help any replies that may may be forthcoming. Cheers for now.:)

[Kin Hell]

Okay folks, here is a Pic of the VR's I got.

http://www.charlesleach.fsworld.co.uk/Pics/IC7-G%20DDRmod%20Pots%20small.JPG
Fuji602 FinePix snapped @ 3MegaPixels 2048 x 1536 Chopped to 1024 x 768 for bandwidths sake;)
The Left one is one I have just recieved, & not yet tried.
The middle one being the first one I tried & left the board dead.
The one wired up is 10K..I tried it set @ 250 but that left me with a dead board too! (more sensitive adjustment)

Its gotten to the point my 000 resistor has no markings left on it & whilst the pads have only seen a 15Watt flash iron, I am concerned at stuffing the pads.

Can anyone confirm which one (if any) is best suited here!

As per usual, Beers all round in advance! :toast:

Cheers :D

[Pita^Norf]

Originally posted by Kin Hell
Okay folks, here is a Pic of the VR's I got.

The Left one is one I have just recieved, & not yet tried.
The middle one being the first one I tried & left the board dead.
The one wired up is 10K..I tried it set @ 250 but that left me with a dead board too! (more sensitive adjustment)

Its gotten to the point my 000 resistor has no markings left on it & whilst the pads have only seen a 15Watt flash iron, I am concerned at stuffing the pads.

Can anyone confirm which one (if any) is best suited here!

As per usual, Beers all round in advance! :toast:

Cheers :D

Kin Hell,

I would have thought that all those would have worked if they were of right order power rating.

But I recommend the following if you can get to maplin.

Maplin (http://www.maplin.co.uk)

and type in 22-Turn Cermet or 18-Turn Cermet in the search box and they should show up.

HTH

[Kin Hell]

and type in 22-Turn Cermet or 18-Turn Cermet in the search box and they should show up.

HTH [/B]

I guess 22 turns giving me a finer control...yes?

[Pita^Norf]

Originally posted by Kin Hell
I guess 22 turns giving me a finer control...yes?

Yes m8ty :thumbsup:

[Kin Hell]

Thanks m8y...just placed the order.
Will come back to you sometime next week when I can get at it.

Thanks ever so much Pita^Norf.

L8rz! :banana:

[Amperage]

I'm curious.. I've been VERY frustrated with my IC7-G. I suspect I have a good 2.6c capable of 4ghz+ easy.. but I'm having problems stabalizing the mobo above 300fsb.

just tonight while playing with bios settings I noticed if i drop my agp voltage to 1.5v vs. the 1.65v i normally use the board is horribly unstable even at 295fsb.. an increase in agp voltage allows a slightly higher fsb stable.. hrm are the agp and chipset supply voltages driven by the same regulators or are they somehow linked? in any case I'd like to try a VDD or AGP vmod on this board.. I've already done the mem vmod so 2.8v in bios = 3.05v

forgot to mention I'm runnin a custom phase change setup.. -4c on the core under max load 3.95ghz 1.7v core.. just so you guys don't think I'm sayin I'm approaching 4ghz on air :p

[HWF]

I think I could follow the directions for the vtt mod, but some pics would sure make it a little easier and safer.

If possible could someone post some pics of the mod?

[NyCUndaGrounD]

Guys it weird the max volatge i can get for vmod is 2.93 in winbond. When i select 2.8 in bios i get 2.93 in winbond and MBM. I saw u guys getting max 3.2 volts. Im using a radio shack 330 ohm resistor. Should i be adding a Cerment Pot to get higher voltages for memory?

[Pita^Norf]

Originally posted by NyCUndaGrounD
Guys it weird the max volatge i can get for vmod is 2.93 in winbond. When i select 2.8 in bios i get 2.93 in winbond and MBM. I saw u guys getting max 3.2 volts. Im using a radio shack 330 ohm resistor. Should i be adding a Cerment Pot to get higher voltages for memory?

The higher the resistance the higher the voltage......this is why the use of a ceremet pot was advocated over a fixed.....making it a single job mod.

[NyCUndaGrounD]

PLease correct me if im wrong but is this how i hook up the pot and the resistor to the baord.

[Pita^Norf]

Originally posted by NyCUndaGrounD
PLease correct me if im wrong but is this how i hook up the pot and the resistor to the baord.

NyCUndaGrounD,

If you use a pot, use a 1K Ohm pot, that way it should be sufficent for all your voltage needs without the need of the fixed resistor in series (as in your diagram).

If you decide that more voltages is what you need then remove the fixed 330 ohm resistor from the board and solder a strand of wire to each pad, and then solder the pot to the other end of the wires.

Another consideration would be to start the pot with 400 ohms and gradually dial up the resistance (voltage) as you require since 300 ohm is not yielding the voltages you need.

HTH.

[HWF]

Originally posted by NyCUndaGrounD
PLease correct me if im wrong but is this how i hook up the pot and the resistor to the baord.

Great pic is that with macro? Can't believe the sharpness.;)

[Charles Wirth]

NyC, no you need to hook the center pin to the trace from the leg of the chip and one of the outside posts on the VR go to ground, make sure when you set your VR that you use the same ground.

It looks like in your pic that you have nothing attached to the center pin.

I can reach 3.2v

[HWF]

FUGGER and Ny

Did you or are you doing the VTT mod if so could you post some pics? I'd like to do it but I'm not sure what a via is, BMG referred to this in his post.

[Charles Wirth]

I didn't do that mod, I have been happy with the performance with those 2 mods.

[HWF]

I guessed I missed something. I thought the mod with removing the r50 and the vtt were all the mods for the IC7.

[Kin Hell]

got the pot at last, but just summat I need to check afore we go for attempt # 3.

Can you pls confirm:
1) Set DDRv to default.
2) Hack board up
3) Set pot @ ???Ohms.
40 Press "on" & pray!

Beers all round again!

Cheers! :toast:

[Pita^Norf]

Originally posted by Kin Hell
got the pot at last, but just summat I need to check afore we go for attempt # 3.

Can you pls confirm:
1) Set DDRv to default.
2) Hack board up
3) Set pot @ ???Ohms.
40 Press "on" & pray!

Beers all round again!

Cheers! :toast:

1) Yup.
2) Yup.
3) It was recommended to start at about 300 ohms.
3b) **you may already know this** The pot has has 3 legs, the middle is common and use of either one of the others will determine whether you turn clockwise to increase or decrease resistance ( on this mod increase resitance increases v). Determine which is which before modding.
4) a BIG Yup.


HTH

P^N

[NyCUndaGrounD]

Will a 10k pot 15-turn be alright for this mod?

[Kin Hell]

K....set bios to default voltages & fsb. (ddr @ 2.6) Rebooted the PC with these settings twice before shutting down.
Set Poxy blue ceremet pot at 300Ohms accross centre pin and pin in-line with adjuster screw. This allows the Ohms to increase as u turn the Screw clockwise.
Soldered center ceremet wire to R50 pad closest to Winbond chips and the ceremet pot wire in-line with adjuster screw to the R50 pad furthest away from Winbond Pad.
Did Item 4, and despite COPIUS amounts of praying, the fuggin board will N O T fire up.
W T F ? ? ? ? ?

Its still down atm....posting from a Cyrix PC ffs...any ideas Pita ?

This is seriously pissin me off now!? :mad:

[Pita^Norf]

Originally posted by Kin Hell
K....set bios to default voltages & fsb. (ddr @ 2.6) Rebooted the PC with these settings twice before shutting down.
Set Poxy blue ceremet pot at 300Ohms accross centre pin and pin in-line with adjuster screw. This allows the Ohms to increase as u turn the Screw clockwise.
Soldered center ceremet wire to R50 pad closest to Winbond chips and the ceremet pot wire in-line with adjuster screw to the R50 pad furthest away from Winbond Pad.
Did Item 4, and despite COPIUS amounts of praying, the fuggin board will N O T fire up.
W T F ? ? ? ? ?

Its still down atm....posting from a Cyrix PC ffs...any ideas Pita ?

This is seriously pissin me off now!? :mad:

Kin Hell,

Let me get this straight.

You have effectively replaced R50 with the ceremet pot adjusted to 300 ohms ? And you have used both R50 pads as well ?

If this is so, then I'm stumped as to why your board won't fire up !!??

It took me two attempts to mod my board, the 1st did'nt fire up because I chose a ground that didnt work, the 2nd I just soldered the two ends to both R50 pads and evey thing fired up fine.

If you have a multimeter handy just check that both of the pot legs have an electrical connection with the board.(dont need to fire up the board for this)

Sorry if I can't be of any help :(

Anybody else have any ideas ???

[Kin Hell]

Originally posted by Pita^Norf
Kin Hell,

Let me get this straight.

You have effectively replaced R50 with the ceremet pot adjusted to 300 ohms ? And you have used both R50 pads as well ?

If this is so, then I'm stumped as to why your board won't fire up !!??

It took me two attempts to mod my board, the 1st did'nt fire up because I chose a ground that didnt work, the 2nd I just soldered the two ends to both R50 pads and evey thing fired up fine.

If you have a multimeter handy just check that both of the pot legs have an electrical connection with the board.(dont need to fire up the board for this)

Sorry if I can't be of any help :(

Anybody else have any ideas ???

You have effectively replaced R50 with the ceremet pot adjusted to 300 ohms ? And you have used both R50 pads as well ?

Yes & Yes

Continuity to the board thro both legs.

Un bloody believable tbh!
:mad:

[Kin Hell]

Mod abandoned...cant be fuggin arsed!

[n6b72g]

Is there any way that a future BIOS update for the IC7 would allow for higher vdimm voltage?

[Kin Hell]

Originally posted by n6b72g
Is there any way that a future BIOS update for the IC7 would allow for higher vdimm voltage?

Apparnetly not m8y.......

ABit have produced some fantastic boards over the years, but they have always been slack on the voltages. Even here on the IC7 series, we have Crazy VCORE voltages available that are a complete waste of time for the Piv Die size. We all know that anything over 1.75v for long periods of time can destroy the CPU.
Unless im mistaken, Corsairs XMS memory is guaranteed to 2.9v, so ABit only going to 2.85 undercuts what Corsair rate their stock Memory at. Dont forget too, in real terms, when u set the bios at 2.85, its only actually hitting around 2.8 to 2.82 actual.

With regard to my own issues here, if I slap my VDIMM @ 2.85 and the AGP at its MAX, my VTT goes out of spec accoring to Hardware Monitor. I did wonder if this might be why my board wont accept the MOD for VDIMM.

This is a nock on thing for me, as I needed the Volt Mod in conjunction with my Vapo Chill. Air cooled even in my Lian Li PC75 case is about as Hot as i want to go at 225 fsb. Around 62DegC with stock heatsink. Maybe the PAL Aplha would take a couple off, but facing making an Aluminium tray to house the Vapo in the Lian Li when i cant do this VDIMM mod is gonna be a waste of time tbh.

My chip will do 265 fsb under the vapo, but I have all the bandwiidth i need at 225 with 1:1 mem timings. Such a shame I cant back a Cooler & faster CPU with faster 1:1 timings.

Using the 1.4 or 1.5 bios, I run 225fsb 1:1 ratio in Street Racer mode and Refresh Cycle Time at Enhanced. Setting the Overall timing to "By Speed" yeilds timings of 2-3-2-5 & bandiwth of 5865Mb/sec Buffered. 2 x 256Mb Corsair XMS 3500 moduels- CMX256A-3500C2PT

Setting the timings manually, ie Slacker in order to up the FSB is a waste of time. Prime95 falls flat on its face.

Hey ho hey!.... :rolleyes:

*edit* CPU-z v1.18 tells me my memory is only 3200 ???
http://www.charlesleach.fsworld.co.uk/Pics/XMS3500.JPG

[NyCUndaGrounD]

Can anybody show me a pic of their vmod with pot and resistor soldered to the board. Thanks

[n6b72g]

Thanks for the reply Kin Hell. Im trying to find away around having to solder to the board, as I dont have the steadiest hands in the world.

[Pita^Norf]

Originally posted by NyCUndaGrounD
Can anybody show me a pic of their vmod with pot and resistor soldered to the board. Thanks

I dont have a digicam atm....but if you use a 1K pot (varible resistor) you don't need a fixed resistor as well.

[Kin Hell]

Originally posted by n6b72g
Thanks for the reply Kin Hell. Im trying to find away around having to solder to the board, as I dont have the steadiest hands in the world.

If you are unsure about doing it, take it to any reputable Electronics Co. Im sure they would do the work for you & only charge a minimal fee! :)

Good luck!

[NyCUndaGrounD]

Originally posted by Pita^Norf
I dont have a digicam atm....but if you use a 1K pot (varible resistor) you don't need a fixed resistor as well.

So u mean i just need to hook up the 1k pot and i wont need a resistor to do the vmod. Sorry but im kinda new to this vmodding thing.

[n6b72g]

Originally posted by NyCUndaGrounD
So u mean i just need to hook up the 1k pot and i wont need a resistor to do the vmod. Sorry but im kinda new to this vmodding thing.

The 1k pot is the resistor, and thats all you need. The 1k pot will then allow you to adjust the resistance from 0 Ohms to 1000 Ohms.

[Vatt]

I can't get the resistor off the board. How long do you guys heat it up? When I take off the soldering iron, the solder immediately hardens again and the resistor is again stuck.
Did you use pliers or something?

Also putting a wick against the side doesn't do anything for me. It doesn't suck op the soldering or anything.

And does someone have a picture how it is supposed to look after having taken off the resistor, but before soldering something new to it? So, a picture off the clean pads...?

[NyCUndaGrounD]

1 more question guys can i use a 10k pot instead of a 1k pot so i wont need to go out and buy again.



Originally posted by Vatt
I can't get the resistor off the board. How long do you guys heat it up? When I take off the soldering iron, the solder immediately hardens again and the resistor is again stuck.
Did you use pliers or something?

Also putting a wick against the side doesn't do anything for me. It doesn't suck op the soldering or anything.

And does someone have a picture how it is supposed to look after having taken off the resistor, but before soldering something new to it? So, a picture off the clean pads...?

At first i was just heating the metal off with no wick or soldering vaccum. I tried to use a q-tip to asorb the heated material. I finally got tired of it and used a small screwedriver to break the top of the resistor. Then it gradually fell apart andi had perfect contact pads. I wouldnt recommend you using my technique.
:toast:

[runmc]

I did the mod and tried three different resistors. 330 - 390 - 470 ohms

I had vdimm volts up to 3.2v but I still couldn't raise fsb past 277.

I pulled my n/b fan off and put AS3 on it on the hs. I was able to run the first test of 03 at 280fsb. That 3.9 on my 2.8

I decided to w/c the n/b.

I got one of the D-tek chipset blocks and put it on tonight. I haven.t got the water hooked up yet. Maybe tomorrow.

I soldered my wires to the mobo so I could change resistor out easily.

I mounted the chipset block with homemade brackets. donebalp invented the brackets, i merely coppied his.

I don't want to hook the chiller up to the chipset right now. I fighting one hell of a battle with the condesation as is.:(



http://home.attbi.com/~rbmccall2000/wsb/media/78548/site1455.jpg

[Tedinde]

Will a 10k pot 15-turn be alright for this mod

That's what im using, the small radio shack blue one's.

[Pita^Norf]

Originally posted by Tedinde
That's what im using, the small radio shack blue one's.

It works no doubt, it's just that you are only ever really going to use the range from 0 - 1K, which I'm sure you'll agree won't give you adjustments as fine a as 1K pot will, since each turn of a 15 turn 10K pot equates ~ 600 Ohm cf to ~ 60 Ohm of a 1 K pot.

[HWF]

Vatt

Let the tip of the soldering iron pre heat the wick. Then breifly touch both sides of the resistor, just lond enough to melt the solder the wick should get most of it..

Now you won't be able to remove the solder totally but you can now place the iron on the side of the resistor and verrry(not a typo) gently push while its heating and the resistor will move.

You should have 2 very shiny spots where the resistor was. This is where you attach the pot for the vdimm adjust.

[Vatt]

Yesssssss,

I did the Vddr mod! Oh man, this was my ever first mod and soldering job I ever did. That R50 resistor is tiny!
I used a tweezer (good english word?) to get hold of the R50 resistor and used some wick also.

One side came off absolutely beautifull, the other side was not so nice.

Then I soldered two wires to these incredible tiny spots and I was very nervous, being my first mod and all.
The wires are in place, but it sure is fragile. I'll bet that with a few touches the wires will come off again...


Anyways, I set the pot to 300 Ohms and put it next to IDE2 port. There was room for it, so I used some sealstring from the Prometeia to stick it to its place.

I started up, and it worked... :banana: :banana: :banana:
I have gained now 0.15v
So setting it to 2.8 will give me 2.95v
I can turn the pot clockwise and Ohm will increase and so will the Vddr.

Thanks to all the guys who shared this info with us :toast: :toast:

This is great... I will now begin vmodding everything I have starting with my Radeon 9800 :D :D :D

Some pics: (I probably used too much wire)
http://www.xs4all.nl/~rvat/vmod/vmod.jpg

http://www.xs4all.nl/~rvat/vmod/vmod_2.jpg

/edit: UPDATE
I have turned some more on the potmeter so it now gives me 0.25v more.
Now when set in BIOS to 2.7 this is what I got:
http://www.xs4all.nl/~rvat/vmod/mbm5_vmod.gif
So when setting to 2.8 I will get 3.05v and that's great.

[NyCUndaGrounD]

Vatt, Excellent job man, im goin to the mod with a pot now. Ill update u guys on if i fugger up my board.

[NyCUndaGrounD]

Ok guys i tried the mod with a 10k pot-15 turn. Center pin of the pot goes to the pad closet to the winbond chip. The pin at the top goes to the other pad. I tried booting but no bios and nothing on screen. Should i be turning the pot adjustment screw. I did not adjust the screw head. What can be the problem.

[Pita^Norf]

Originally posted by NyCUndaGrounD
Ok guys i tried the mod with a 10k pot-15 turn. Center pin of the pot goes to the pad closet to the winbond chip. The pin at the top goes to the other pad. I tried booting but no bios and nothing on screen. Should i be turning the pot adjustment screw. I did not adjust the screw head. What can be the problem.

NyCUndaGrounD,

You have missed a vital step in this mod.

One of the 1st things you do is adjust the pot to 300 ohms !!!

If you had continuity between the pot and the board, then I'm afraid you have just put 5000 ohms worth of voltage through your Ram (is there vdimm regulation that limits the max vdimm??). Why 5000 ohms you ask ? Well afaik pots come from the factory adjusted to 1/2 of its max resistance and in your case 1/2 of 10K is 5K.

This is one reason why I advocated a 1k pot because even if you'd missed the vital step as I've pointed out then at worse you would have put 500 ohms of voltage through your ram, and these I believe are would be well within 3.2v vdimm.

Remove one of the legs from the board, adjust pot to 300 ohms and re-solder that leg to the board and hope that your ram and board is ok.

[Charles Wirth]

Yep, make sure the VR is set as well as had the bios already set to the lowest setting. make sure you have the solder conacts perfect too.

My ATX power connector has been having a problem, and prevents my system from booting from time to time. I have to unplug it and plug it back it back in for my system to boot. seems strange but worth a try.

[LikwidKool]

Man I want to do this so bad. I only have an 8RDA+ vdd mod under my belt as soldering experience, but that board was under $100. I just don't know if I am prepared to flush $160 down the drain atm. Just no money to replace burnt hardware. I am loving this setup and would have to wait a while if I f'ed this up. I am not so woriied about soldering the resistor on as I am worried about getting R50 off and fuggering up the pad's. I really don't want to put my amd stuff back togther!;)

Man I might just have to take the shot. I need more vdimm!! I feel like a crack head trying to score!:o

BTW guy's thanks for the step by step instructions.

[NyCUndaGrounD]

Thanks guys, i guess ill go to my local radioshack tommorrow. I have more free time now since off from college. This should be the life.

[LikwidKool]

ohohohoh! VMEM GOODNESS! I love you guy's!!

Just booted up after preforming this mod, and to my delight everything worked! I still need to dial the resisotr a little. I am at 2.7 right now, which is giving me 2.8 I had set the resistor for 300 ohms.

I tell you though it took forever to get r50 off. I was so worried about melting the pad's. I had gone out and picked up a 15/30 Soldering Iron from Rat Shack cause I thought my other one might be too hot. I am just so glad everything worked, cause I really didn't want to put my amd rig back together. Intel has brainwashed me!

Thanks again guy's.

[NyCUndaGrounD]

Yes i finally finished it. Got a 1k Pot from Radio Shack and im very happy with the results. I get 2.99 volts when i select 2.5v in bios.
i think i should lower the pot to a safer volatge ratio.



:toast:

[Pita^Norf]

Originally posted by NyCUndaGrounD
Yes i finally finished it. Got a 1k Pot from Radio Shack and im very happy with the results. I get 2.99 volts when i select 2.5v in bios.
i think i should lower the pot to a safer volatge ratio.



:toast:

WTG :thumbsup:

I'm glad it worked out for you !!

[LikwidKool]

hmm. I turned the pot up some and when at 2.8 I was getting 3.05 but it was really squirly. Funny thing is I turned it down about a 1/4 turn and I was getting the same reading, and is still abit squirly. Maybe that is the max vddr I can get?

[HWF]

It would be great if some of the pro's could post some pics of the Vtt mod.:banana:

[Kin Hell]

Originally posted by LikwidKool
hmm. I turned the pot up some and when at 2.8 I was getting 3.05 but it was really squirly. Funny thing is I turned it down about a 1/4 turn and I was getting the same reading, and is still abit squirly. Maybe that is the max vddr I can get?

wtf is "squirly" m8?

Just asking cos like another chap in here, I couldnt get the Mod to work. :confused:

Having said that, I am making further investigations (edit* my multiMeter may be fugged), as I`m sure PitaNorf would like to know! He's costing me a fortune in beer! :D

Congrats on your success for doing your MOD, but I'd like to ask what FSB increase you have got from your 3500 Mem for giving it an extra .2v over Stock max?

Pls expand your dedscription of "squirly" tho,....dying to know! :hehe:

[Pita^Norf]

Originally posted by Kin Hell
wtf is "squirly" m8?

Just asking cos like another chap in here, I couldnt get the Mod to work. :confused:

Having said that, I am making further investigations (edit* my multiMeter may be fugged), as I`m sure PitaNorf would like to know! He's costing me a fortune in beer! :D

Congrats on your success for doing your MOD, but I'd like to ask what FSB increase you have got from your 3500 Mem for giving it an extra .2v over Stock max?

Pls expand your dedscription of "squirly" tho,....dying to know! :hehe:

I can have a stab it it....maybe he means that his voltages are fluctuating ?

Yeah Kin Hell m8 I'm puzzeled as to why your mod has'nt worked, I feel a little guilty getting you to order those pots only for it not to work.

Anyways lets hope your multimeter was fuxored and you get the little bugger to fire up with the mod in place. :)

Good luck and may the overclock gods shine on your board :D

[Kin Hell]

Originally posted by Pita^Norf
I can have a stab it it....maybe he means that his voltages are fluctuating ?

Yeah Kin Hell m8 I'm puzzeled as to why your mod has'nt worked, I feel a little guilty getting you to order those pots only for it not to work.

Anyways lets hope your multimeter was fuxored and you get the little bugger to fire up with the mod in place. :)

Good luck and may the overclock gods shine on your board :D

I'm only going on feelings atm m8. I guess I'd guess myself as being a pretty "Logical" type of a chap, so...I'm gonna be sure my meter is registerin right by setting the Cerement pot and whipping it round to a place that do circuit board work. Just to explain the need for this, I bought the Meter back in 1980. Was at college then, U can Gesticulate the rest ureselves! :D

So,...there could be a pretty good chance "Old Faithful" could be fuggin' me! :stick:

gonna check it out tommorow hopefully. Will let u know soon!

Cheers bud! :cool:

[LikwidKool]

sorry Kin hell. Squirly was supposed to mean fluctuating. My bad!
Also I have not had time yet to test in 1:1 ratio. I tried to see how hi it would go 5:4 but it seems I am at the end of my 2.4c's legs at 289fsb. I need to try some things out. I could only get 285 before, so the mod did help a bit.

[Kin Hell]

Originally posted by LikwidKool
sorry Kin hell. Squirly was supposed to mean fluctuating. My bad!
Also I have not had time yet to test in 1:1 ratio. I tried to see how hi it would go 5:4 but it seems I am at the end of my 2.4c's legs at 289fsb. I need to try some things out. I could only get 285 before, so the mod did help a bit.

No need to be sorry dude but thanks! :)

Also, have you Modded ure NorthBridge? A decent Heatsink & Fan with some Artic3 could allow you to go further still.

Good luck!;)

[LikwidKool]

Yeah I have a Zalman heatsink with the stock fan on top with AS3 underneath. I just need a day off to do some more oc'ing. I will post results when I have them.

[MnM]

Thanks to you guys I have finished this mod.
I replaced the 0Ohm resistor with a 331Ohm one (IC7-G).
It works perfect. At 2.55 selected in bios it will actually give me 2.75. Didnt try any higher yet.

Funny thing is this.
I have done one motherboard first and it worked perfect.
Then I did my friend's one. He would get a blank screen and no post. We replaced the resistor (the 331Ohm one) with a new one, thinking we might have given it too much heat. Same result. No display at all. What I have done then, is I shorted the 331Ohm resistor with some twizers therefore giving it a 0Ohm value.
I got post. I removed the twizers not post.
In the end what I have done is I put another resistor (331Ohm) ON TOP of the 331Ohm already on the motherboard. I solder it in parallel. We turn the PC on - POST!!!!
Now with this mod, he gets only half the voltage from the normal mod eg. 2.55 selected in bios actually gives him 2.67 real volts.
He was happy with it as he already thought he had to spen $$ for a new motherboard. Plus in the end he still gets more than the 2.8 limit.

So 2 identical boards, two identical mods but only one of them worked. I think the components used on the boards and their tolerances play a big part in modding the vdimm. I am now sure that if I had a 400-450Ohm resistor around and would have actually solder it to my friends board will have worked giving him a bit better than just 0.1 increase over the value selected in bios.

Maybe this info can help the guys who cant get a post after the board has been modded. Try solding one to the motherboard and one on top of the resistor. At least you will get more than the defualt max voltage in the end.

[Kin Hell]

Originally posted by MnM
Thanks to you guys I have finished this mod.
I replaced the 0Ohm resistor with a 331Ohm one (IC7-G).
It works perfect. At 2.55 selected in bios it will actually give me 2.75. Didnt try any higher yet.

Funny thing is this.
I have done one motherboard first and it worked perfect.
Then I did my friend's one. He would get a blank screen and no post. We replaced the resistor (the 331Ohm one) with a new one, thinking we might have given it too much heat. Same result. No display at all. What I have done then, is I shorted the 331Ohm resistor with some twizers therefore giving it a 0Ohm value.
I got post. I removed the twizers not post.
In the end what I have done is I put another resistor (331Ohm) ON TOP of the 331Ohm already on the motherboard. I solder it in parallel. We turn the PC on - POST!!!!
Now with this mod, he gets only half the voltage from the normal mod eg. 2.55 selected in bios actually gives him 2.67 real volts.
He was happy with it as he already thought he had to spen $$ for a new motherboard. Plus in the end he still gets more than the 2.8 limit.

So 2 identical boards, two identical mods but only one of them worked. I think the components used on the boards and their tolerances play a big part in modding the vdimm. I am now sure that if I had a 400-450Ohm resistor around and would have actually solder it to my friends board will have worked giving him a bit better than just 0.1 increase over the value selected in bios.

Maybe this info can help the guys who cant get a post after the board has been modded. Try solding one to the motherboard and one on top of the resistor. At least you will get more than the defualt max voltage in the end.

http://www.charlesleach.fsworld.co.uk/Pics/jawdrop.gif

[DDA]

Originally posted by MnM
Thanks to you guys I have finished this mod.
I replaced the 0Ohm resistor with a 331Ohm one (IC7-G).
It works perfect. At 2.55 selected in bios it will actually give me 2.75. Didnt try any higher yet.

Funny thing is this.
I have done one motherboard first and it worked perfect.
Then I did my friend's one. He would get a blank screen and no post. We replaced the resistor (the 331Ohm one) with a new one, thinking we might have given it too much heat. Same result. No display at all. What I have done then, is I shorted the 331Ohm resistor with some twizers therefore giving it a 0Ohm value.
I got post. I removed the twizers not post.
In the end what I have done is I put another resistor (331Ohm) ON TOP of the 331Ohm already on the motherboard. I solder it in parallel. We turn the PC on - POST!!!!
Now with this mod, he gets only half the voltage from the normal mod eg. 2.55 selected in bios actually gives him 2.67 real volts.
He was happy with it as he already thought he had to spen $$ for a new motherboard. Plus in the end he still gets more than the 2.8 limit.

So 2 identical boards, two identical mods but only one of them worked. I think the components used on the boards and their tolerances play a big part in modding the vdimm. I am now sure that if I had a 400-450Ohm resistor around and would have actually solder it to my friends board will have worked giving him a bit better than just 0.1 increase over the value selected in bios.

Maybe this info can help the guys who cant get a post after the board has been modded. Try solding one to the motherboard and one on top of the resistor. At least you will get more than the defualt max voltage in the end.

2 x 331 Ohms in parallel make 165 Ohms abt ....

[Kin Hell]

Originally posted by DDA
2 x 331 Ohms in parallel make 165 Ohms abt ....

Sure, and if they were in Series 662 Ohms,...but summat aint adding up with this board and how the VDIMM is controlled.
Of all the boards I have ever modded for Voltages, I have not yet seen one give you more Voltage as you increase the Resistance. Then along came the IC7-G..........................

Then there is the anomally of the Mod not working for some of us. I've tried 3 diff VR's without success...board dead everytime.

Something isnt quite right here! :confused:

[DDA]

Originally posted by Kin Hell

Something isnt quite right here! :confused:

I agree with you ....

[NyCUndaGrounD]

Originally posted by Kin Hell
Sure, and if they were in Series 662 Ohms,...but summat aint adding up with this board and how the VDIMM is controlled.
Of all the boards I have ever modded for Voltages, I have not yet seen one give you more Voltage as you increase the Resistance. Then along came the IC7-G..........................

Then there is the anomally of the Mod not working for some of us. I've tried 3 diff VR's without success...board dead everytime.

Something isnt quite right here! :confused:

Are u sure u didnt burn the pads out of recognition. i burned the resistor next to the R50 beyond recognition and it still works!LOL.
When i see the pads disappearing i add a bit more solder onto it to keep it alive.

[Kin Hell]

Originally posted by NyCUndaGrounD
Are u sure u didnt burn the pads out of recognition. i burned the resistor next to the R50 beyond recognition and it still works!LOL.
When i see the pads disappearing i add a bit more solder onto it to keep it alive.

I wouldnt have thought so considering the "0 Ohm"resistor is in place atm & thats been resoldered back to the board 3 times now! I didnt scorch the Res. next to it either but the 0 Ohm Res. has about half of one of its original three zeros. So I guess that pup has gotten a tad warm!

A 15Watt Iron & suitable tip with the all important "steady-hand" should not have scorched the Res. next to R50. Your a tad lucky there m8! ;)

[Kin Hell]

This is really aimed at anyone that might have done this Mod, but, having done the VDIMM Mod 3 times & get NO post on each occasion, I did wonder if the VTT might be the root cause of NO Post.

I only ask this as when I set my VDIMM @ 2.8v, Hardware Doc has alsrm bells ringing telling me my VTT is out of range (too high)

As im increasing the VDIMM with the 1K VR, I did wonder if that would exaberate the VTT issue I see & therefore render me a NO Post scenario!?

MnM discovered that adding another Res. in Parallel lessend the VDIMM available, but at the same time, would not have pushed the VTT quite as high as was prolly happening with a NO Post with just 1 x 330Ohm Res.

Whatchya think lads?

Beers all around again! :toast:

[tome]

Hi,

I just tried the mod using a 1k pot this morning. Thereby I removed the R50 resistor by accident (or using two left hands). Now the resistor is off but there is nothing left where I can solder the two wires coming from the 1k pot. Maybe I also removed successfully the contacts of the boards. :(

Any chance to avoid scrapping the board? Maybe using the 4th leg of the winbond and mass from the mosfet nearby (as posted earlier)?

Greetz tome

[Pita^Norf]

Originally posted by Kin Hell
This is really aimed at anyone that might have done this Mod, but, having done the VDIMM Mod 3 times & get NO post on each occasion, I did wonder if the VTT might be the root cause of NO Post.

I only ask this as when I set my VDIMM @ 2.8v, Hardware Doc has alsrm bells ringing telling me my VTT is out of range (too high)

As im increasing the VDIMM with the 1K VR, I did wonder if that would exaberate the VTT issue I see & therefore render me a NO Post scenario!?

MnM discovered that adding another Res. in Parallel lessend the VDIMM available, but at the same time, would not have pushed the VTT quite as high as was prolly happening with a NO Post with just 1 x 330Ohm Res.

Whatchya think lads?

Beers all around again! :toast:

It is interesting that MnM after effectively halving his resistance across r50 that the the board decides to boot up, this brings me to think if you started your resistance at say 100 ohms rather than the 300 would you have a working board now albeit with lower increase to Vdimm than desired?

Now I don't know really enough about VTT, but should this usually be set to about 1/2 of Vdimm as with most boards and is used to stabalise the Vdimm ?

If your board is telling you that VTT is out of range then it could possibly be the case that the VTT levels are'nt enough to stabalise the Vdimm you are trying to run and thus a no boot ?

[Kin Hell]

Originally posted by Pita^Norf
It is interesting that MnM after effectively halving his resistance across r50 that the the board decides to boot up, this brings me to think if you started your resistance at say 100 ohms rather than the 300 would you have a working board now albeit with lower increase to Vdimm than desired?

Now I don't know really enough about VTT, but should this usually be set to about 1/2 of Vdimm as with most boards and is used to stabalise the Vdimm ?

If your board is telling you that VTT is out of range then it could possibly be the case that the VTT levels are'nt enough to stabalise the Vdimm you are trying to run and thus a no boot ?

I dont have the kit to VTT mod & tbh, after thinking i'd fugged meh board 3 times & when u consider it appears to be ok for some but not for others, I'm kinda wonderin if it's really worth pursuing. ........Especially with the fact we are Increasing Resistance to Increase Voltage. Strictly speaking, thats total fubar against Electronic basics. :down:
Perhaps i`m better off just buying OCZ- GOLD and having done with it but then the wallet is fugged real bad atm.:(

[crotale]

Why not try to post at 0 ohms..? Then it _should_ post...
Then upping it while monitoring the bios...

Question: What will happen if the resistance is completely removed? ("infinite" resistance)

[Pita^Norf]

Originally posted by crotale
Why not try to post at 0 ohms..? Then it _should_ post...
Then upping it while monitoring the bios...


The r50 is more or less at 0 ohms...last time I measure it was between 0 and 1 ohm.



Originally posted by crotale

Question: What will happen if the resistance is completely removed? ("infinite" resistance)

Infinate resistance is the opposite of zero, so to be at zero & infinity at the same time is not possible.

If what you ask is what happens if we replace R50 with infinite resitance, then thats an unknown? My guess is that there must be a limit that the Winbond chip will take and will not boot if this is exceeded, I think Nycunderground may have dumped 5k ohms across r50 pads and got a no boot.

[eva2000]

Originally posted by MnM
Thanks to you guys I have finished this mod.
I replaced the 0Ohm resistor with a 331Ohm one (IC7-G).
It works perfect. At 2.55 selected in bios it will actually give me 2.75. Didnt try any higher yet.

Funny thing is this.
I have done one motherboard first and it worked perfect.
Then I did my friend's one. He would get a blank screen and no post. We replaced the resistor (the 331Ohm one) with a new one, thinking we might have given it too much heat. Same result. No display at all. What I have done then, is I shorted the 331Ohm resistor with some twizers therefore giving it a 0Ohm value.
I got post. I removed the twizers not post.
In the end what I have done is I put another resistor (331Ohm) ON TOP of the 331Ohm already on the motherboard. I solder it in parallel. We turn the PC on - POST!!!!
Now with this mod, he gets only half the voltage from the normal mod eg. 2.55 selected in bios actually gives him 2.67 real volts.
He was happy with it as he already thought he had to spen $$ for a new motherboard. Plus in the end he still gets more than the 2.8 limit.

So 2 identical boards, two identical mods but only one of them worked. I think the components used on the boards and their tolerances play a big part in modding the vdimm. I am now sure that if I had a 400-450Ohm resistor around and would have actually solder it to my friends board will have worked giving him a bit better than just 0.1 increase over the value selected in bios.

Maybe this info can help the guys who cant get a post after the board has been modded. Try solding one to the motherboard and one on top of the resistor. At least you will get more than the defualt max voltage in the end. nice MnM, would love to do this mod on my IC7 but never held a soldering iron in my life and have no clue :o

[NyCUndaGrounD]

I was wondering if it was possible to adjust the pot's knob while the computer is running?

[Vatt]

Yes, that is what I did.

I started MotherBoard Monitor and adjusted the pot untill I read 3.1v on the DIMM's

[Pita^Norf]

Originally posted by NyCUndaGrounD
I was wondering if it was possible to adjust the pot's knob while the computer is running?

It may be ok, but certainly not something I would advise.

I'd rather shut down properly than risk killing a board.

[crotale]

ok, I just went to a guy who maybe could do the mod...

To tell the truth: I was SCARED SH1TLESS!!! He was more shaky than my grandma'!
"Ooops, one pad almost got detached"
GHAAAA!!!

Well, I'm gonna try it now... I got a poor 1.6A and some cheap 256 stick laying around...

Pita^Norf: The resistor is a 0 ohm... Increasing the resistance will increase vdimm. Removing the the resistor equals infinite resistance... What happens then, that is my question...

What is the upper limit of the winbond chip on the vdimm?

[Vatt]

Originally posted by HWF
It would be great if some of the pro's could post some pics of the Vtt mod.:banana:

Yes, I think that is what I need also.

Let me explain: ;)

My XMS3500 needs 3.0v for DDR466 2-2-2-5

I set in BIOS Vdimm at 2.8 and turned the pot untill I got 3.0v
Everything is stable and working perfectly.

Now, let's say I put in BIOS only 2.7v and turn the pot more so I ALSO get 3.0v. It SHOULD be stable... because 3.0v is enough for the XMS3500 and proven to work.

BUT.. it is not stable. Both times I have 3.0v , but the difference is in VTT.
With 2.8 in BIOS --> VTT is 1.4 and all stable
With 2.7 in BIOS --> VTT is 1.35 and UNSTABLE

I hope it's all clear to you all, what I mean ;) ...

Now, I THINK that by increasing Vtt I will be able to higher overclock. I have come to FSB 282 and 5:4 divider, but even 3.2v on the XMS3500 doesn't get me any higher. It just freezes, and even in memtest (DOS based) it just freezes.

With SETFSB I can gain about 3 MHZ in windows but anything higher than 285 (5:4) is a big no no...


Please help me doing this Vtt mod. I have read on page 1 about the mod , but it's not very clear to me....

[[SLC]Tachyon]

OK- got a 15W soldering iron, rosin solder, but I could only find a 10k pot.

My uncle does soldering on a regular basis- so he's coming over tomorrow to do the solderwork.

What should I set the 10k Radioshack Cermet Resistor to? Can I start it @ 0 (same as if the 0 Ohm resistor was there) and slowly crank it upwards, watching the voltage rise to where I need it in the BIOS?

TIA

[hipro5]

OK.........I'll post photos(as soon as I get my friends digicam once again) with Vmem(not the "style" we are talking about here) , VTT , Vagp (too difficult Modd) and Vchip(Vdd)..........

VTT , Vchip(Vdd) and Vagp needs some traces to be cut.............

[crotale]

Woohoo, it works!
But I was really scary, my IC7 didn't like be installed barebone.. (?) I've been having that trouble before... Does it have something to do with the grounding?
Anyway, it's in a case now, working really nice!


Originally posted by [SLC]Tachyon
What should I set the 10k Radioshack Cermet Resistor to? Can I start it @ 0 (same as if the 0 Ohm resistor was there) and slowly crank it upwards, watching the voltage rise to where I need it in the BIOS?

That's what I did, works fine.
Double check to make sure you got a low resistance to start with, I don't really know what happens with alot of resistance, and I've asked here, but no one have replied to that yet...

BTW, I have a 22-turn vr, and even then it doesn't take much to adjust it, be careful!

[[SLC]Tachyon]

OK, we removed the R50 resistor *perfectly*- solder pads were in perfect condition.

*BUT*- when trying to attatch one of the wires to the top solder pad- it took a few attemps and in the process it seems we have melted the solder pad off.

Now is there any way in hell we can correct this? Can we just drop some solder onto where that pad was and will it be usable? how bout using some conductive paint and tehn just glueing the wires to the solder pads????

Any help appreciated!!!

[Vatt]

Hi,
excuse my English, I have just been to our town carnaval, and had a few to many :toast: :toast:

Even if you f*ck up the pads, it seems you can still use the legs on the chip.

It is in this very thread , it seems that an xtreme member has found the way to make it work.
(ofcourse you will only need it when you habe FUBAR'ed the original pads.)
I will find the exact post and edit it into this message,

Boy, it's difficult to type when you've had a few to many beers... :D :toast:

[NyCUndaGrounD]

Originally posted by [SLC]Tachyon
OK, we removed the R50 resistor *perfectly*- solder pads were in perfect condition.

*BUT*- when trying to attatch one of the wires to the top solder pad- it took a few attemps and in the process it seems we have melted the solder pad off.

Now is there any way in hell we can correct this? Can we just drop some solder onto where that pad was and will it be usable? how bout using some conductive paint and tehn just glueing the wires to the solder pads????

Any help appreciated!!!

I have fuggered up the pads too myself, and u can try adding some solder to the pads to revive it. That helped me save my board.

[[SLC]Tachyon]

Originally posted by NyCUndaGrounD
I have fuggered up the pads too myself, and u can try adding some solder to the pads to revive it. That helped me save my board.

The problem is- that for the top pad- there really is no pad there at all anymore. All I can see is the PCB- no metal is left there whatsoever. :/

[NyCUndaGrounD]

O in that case u might be screwed............... I mean even if the pads are gone there is still some kind of metal contact there in that space.

In my pic, there should be some kind of contact, if not how would the board get information from those contact pads.

[[SLC]Tachyon]

Originally posted by NyCUndaGrounD
O in that case u might be screwed............... I mean even if the pads are gone there is still some kind of metal contact there in that space.

In my pic, there should be some kind of contact, if not how would the board get information from those contact pads.

There's NOTHING where the pad was right now- just black PCB. :(

We accidently had ripped up the trace when the pad went away- and I am unable to locate the end of the trace at all. :(

I put a few drops of conductive window defogger paint where the pad was- put one needle there and the other on the good pad- and ther was no change on the multimeter (should there be really?).

I just PM'ed the mod that found a workaround on the IS7 after he accidently destroyed his solder pads- I'm hoping that this mod will work for me also.

[tome]

Hi,

I tried this work around figured out by Tedlinde, meaning solder one wire to the fourth leg of the winbond chip and the other one to ground. Now the system starts but there is no beep and the monitor remains black. On page two of this thread there some pics that show how do it. Good luck.

tome

[[SLC]Tachyon]

Originally posted by tome
Hi,

I tried this work around figured out by Tedlinde, meaning solder one wire to the fourth leg of the winbond chip and the other one to ground. Now the system starts but there is no beep and the monitor remains black. On page two of this thread there some pics that show how do it. Good luck.

tome

Do you have a resistor on that wire?

[tome]

Originally posted by [SLC]Tachyon
Do you have a resistor on that wire?

Yes, a 1 kOhm VR. I tried with 0 Ohm and with 330 Ohm but the board stops booting as described above. Maybe I burned anything else near the R50 pads. I can send you pictures if you give your email.

tome

[[SLC]Tachyon]

Originally posted by tome
Yes, a 1 kOhm VR. I tried with 0 Ohm and with 330 Ohm but the board stops booting as described above. Maybe I burned anything else near the R50 pads. I can send you pictures if you give your email.

tome

I'd *greatly* appreciate pics- my email is Asmith9604@aol.com

[tome]

Originally posted by [SLC]Tachyon
I'd *greatly* appreciate pics- my email is Asmith9604@aol.com

Pics sent.

tome

[[SLC]Tachyon]

Originally posted by tome
Pics sent.

tome

Thanks for the pics

One more question though- is there any specific MOSFET/leg of a MOSFET that I should solder the wire too?

And to confirm once again, the setup should go:

4th Leg of the Winbond Chip ---> resistor ---> MOSFET

Right?

:mad: :mad: :mad: :mad:

I've just spent at least an hour trying to get a wire onto that leg- with the combination of a shaky hand and poor eyesight I can't get it on.

I can touch the end of the wire onto the 4th leg- but I can't get it to stay. Using hot glue actually moves it over, and i know moving it over = useless mod. :(

How about SMD grabbers? Anyone aware if there are any small enough to grab a leg on the Winbond chip?

[tome]

4th Winbond leg -> VR resistor -> screw hole (ground) this is what a colleague did for me.

So far I did not see that small grabbers.

tome

[copyman]

Thanks man, work fine here

any volts , up to 3,2v no variations

[]'s

Copy

[Radelon]

I messed up one of my tabs when doin' this, so I used an SMD Grabber on the 4th leg of the Winbond chip and put the resistor inline and have it soldered to the ground leg of the mosfet. I used a 470ohm resistor and get a solid 2.97v at 2.8 setting in bios. So yes a grabber can be used. Took a bit of work to get it on there, but once on it's not moving.

[eva2000]

for a newbie who's never done any soldering or electronics, how hard would it for me to mod vDimm on IC7 so that

2.5v = 2.85v
2.6v = 2.95v
2.7v = 3.05v
2.8v = 3.15v

[Radelon]

eva, because of the small area you have to work with, it's very tough. It really was my first soldering job, but in the end I had to use the alternative way. But all is working so I can't complain.

I will be changing my resistor on Monday in hopes of getting 3.1v on the 2.8v setting.

[tome]

Originally posted by Radelon
I messed up one of my tabs when doin' this, so I used an SMD Grabber on the 4th leg of the Winbond chip and put the resistor inline and have it soldered to the ground leg of the mosfet. I used a 470ohm resistor and get a solid 2.97v at 2.8 setting in bios. So yes a grabber can be used. Took a bit of work to get it on there, but once on it's not moving.

@Radelon: Could you send me the part number or a pic of the SMD grabber you used? Thanks.

tome

email: tmehler@freenet.de

[Radelon]

Originally posted by tome
@Radelon: Could you send me the part number or a pic of the SMD grabber you used? Thanks.

tome

email: tmehler@freenet.de

SMD Grabber (http://www.contacteast.com/product/group.asp?parent_id=6308)

That's the one I have, what's really cool about it is that you can take a wire from a Red, White, Black cd audio cable and the end will just slide right into the top of the grabber. It is a little tough to get on there, but it works.

[Nohto]

I have a dif method of doing the mod. For the ground you can solder to the mosfet (see picture) and if you screw up the pad on the left side of the resistor, you can solder to the resistor next to it.(See picture)

[tome]

Originally posted by Radelon
SMD Grabber (http://www.contacteast.com/product/group.asp?parent_id=6308)

That's the one I have, what's really cool about it is that you can take a wire from a Red, White, Black cd audio cable and the end will just slide right into the top of the grabber. It is a little tough to get on there, but it works.

Thanks for this info. I will try that when I get my next IC7.

tome

[Astroman]

I did this mod yesterday, went to Rad Shack and picked up everything, including a 15w Soldering Iron, some "solder wick" (solder braid), some silver solder, a 1kohm 15 turn ceremet (15 turns is PLENTY 1/2 turn works out to be about .01 volt), and some wire.

Everything I needed including the iron was about $22.

I lost my old Weller soldering iron :(

anyhow, I did the mod with the computer still assembled, I just unplugged everything from the back, pulled off teh side, and set it down on the kitchen table. No more than 10 minutes later, including time to unpack/unwrap all the items, I was finished.

Let me say this is truly a piece of cake if you do it right, using the right tools. The solder wick makes removing the "resistor" a snap, without risk of damaging the PCB. Pre-tinning all the wires, the legs of the VR, and putting a tiny drop of solder on each pad makes the process very easy.

After all is said and done, I have 3.15 vdimm when set to 2.8, but I'm going to start backing that off.

For some reason, even after installing a TrueControl (Antec) 550w I still can't get prime95 stable after 275 FSB.

I can post higher than 300mhz but not get into windows. I can get into windows at 290, but prime fails instantly.

I think this VTT mod interests me now, considering the relative ease of such modifications, I may try it maybe it will help!

Thanks for all the info guys.


Abit IS7
Pentium 4 2.4c @ 3.4 Ghz
vdimm 3.15
Kingston HyperX pc3500 2-2-2-5
277 fsb @ 5:4
Street Racer
Auto
Auto
Auto
Disabled
6.1+ Ghz/sec sandra score
16300+ 3dmark01SE
9500 pro @ ~370/295
Antec TrueControl 550
Zalman CNPS7000 AlCu
1.7vcore

[MnM]

Heres a pic of it:

http://www.arach.net.au/~mihai/Vmod.jpg



Originally posted by MnM
Thanks to you guys I have finished this mod.
I replaced the 0Ohm resistor with a 331Ohm one (IC7-G).
It works perfect. At 2.55 selected in bios it will actually give me 2.75. Didnt try any higher yet.

Funny thing is this.
I have done one motherboard first and it worked perfect.
Then I did my friend's one. He would get a blank screen and no post. We replaced the resistor (the 331Ohm one) with a new one, thinking we might have given it too much heat. Same result. No display at all. What I have done then, is I shorted the 331Ohm resistor with some twizers therefore giving it a 0Ohm value.
I got post. I removed the twizers not post.
In the end what I have done is I put another resistor (331Ohm) ON TOP of the 331Ohm already on the motherboard. I solder it in parallel. We turn the PC on - POST!!!!
Now with this mod, he gets only half the voltage from the normal mod eg. 2.55 selected in bios actually gives him 2.67 real volts.
He was happy with it as he already thought he had to spen $$ for a new motherboard. Plus in the end he still gets more than the 2.8 limit.

So 2 identical boards, two identical mods but only one of them worked. I think the components used on the boards and their tolerances play a big part in modding the vdimm. I am now sure that if I had a 400-450Ohm resistor around and would have actually solder it to my friends board will have worked giving him a bit better than just 0.1 increase over the value selected in bios.

Maybe this info can help the guys who cant get a post after the board has been modded. Try solding one to the motherboard and one on top of the resistor. At least you will get more than the defualt max voltage in the end.

[shimmishim]

okay... i've read a lot of this thread and i think i am going to do this mod after seeing how my geil gold dragon keeps failing memtest but is good up to 3.1 volts....

so let me get this straight...
alll i need:
soldering iron (15-35W)
1K ohm (adjustable)
solder wick
solder

i can go to radio shack and get all these things if i'm correct... can anyone give me the part numbers from the webpage so i can know what to get?

so this is the procedure...

i remove the board from my case... lay everything out on the table

find the r50 resistor which is next to the winbond chip right under the vdimm slots.

i am going to place soldering wick or whatever next to the resistor (i have no idea what soldering wick or braid looks like)

then i am going to use the soldering iron to heat up the metal contact pads (two of them) to remove the resistor but i have to be careful not to heat it too much or the pads will be burnt up or damaged

i remove the resistor

i adjust the 1k ohm pot to 300 ohms (i have a multimeter to measure this but i need help as to how to set it because i burnt up my 8rda+ thinking my pot was set to i forget how many ohms)

i take two pieces of wire and connect it to the pot...

then i take the pieces of wire and connect each to the contact pads via some of the solder

and voila! i'm done...

i guess the little details are things such as...

how do i adjust the pot correctly?
how do i connect the wires to the pot (i could just use solder correct)?
what sort of wires should i use?


i think if someone could give me the part numbers from radioshack, that'd be most helpful.. thanks!

Edit: i found all the part numbers on radioshack.com

i guess i have a question about the solder wick/braid

do i place this on the tip of the iron?

[Astroman]

using solder braid is quite simple.

I used my bare fingers with about a 2" strip of braid, though you may want to use a glove or pliers to hold it, it gets hot.

place the end of the braid over the solder joint, then use the tip of the hot soldering iron to press the wick down onto the solder.

This heats the braid, which in turn heats the solder, which melts and gets soaked into the hot braid.

do this on both sides. the "resistor" will probably still be stuck to the board but apply the iron again to one side and it should melt the thin remaining layer of solder and you can gently push the "resistor" off its pads.

good luck.

Don't forget to tin the wire before trying to solder it to the board and the legs of the resistor..

[shimmishim]

what is tinning the wire?

[Ruantic]

Originally posted by shimmishim
what is tinning the wire?

Tinning the wire refers to the process of pre-applying a thin coating of solder to the wire BEFORE you attach it to the connections.

[shimmishim]

okay cool! i'll give that a shot...

i'll try this mod out tomorrow most likely...

keep your fingers crossed that i won't kill this nice board!!!

[shimmishim]

i was practicing on a dead motherboard...

is this a good job of desoldering a resistor?

did i burn the contact pads?

any suggestions?

btw... FB15 is the one i removed


http://www.johnshim.com/soldering/DSC00023s.jpg

[Astroman]

looks good man, nice job.

If you got the stuff at Rad Shack and followed the directions on the back of the solder braid, then you are doing well!

now, practice tinning the wires and soldering them to those pads.

One thing very important, is that you have to keep the joint STILL once you remove the heat, or you may end up with what is known as a "cold joint" or a bad solder connection... so, remove the iron and keep the wire as still as possible.

I would also like to add that there looks to be quite a bit of splatter on the board... is that how it came ? clean that crap off if you have anything that looks like that on your new board.

[shimmishim]

finished! :)

went well...

2.8 in bios is now 2.97

i'll tweak more later! thanks guys!

[Netto]

Finished the vmod, everything went well, I used a 1k Trimpot (Attached to the PCI) and used the wire to get steady (Mosfet).

That way I can turn the Trimpot all the way up to 3.2 vdimm, without the worry of xxxxxucking up the soldering :D

http://www.euclides0510.kit.net/dsc00051.jpg

:toast:

[Scallywhag]

Since the r50 resistor is close to 0-1 ohm...can i just like solder another 1k VR on top of the r50 resistor and adjust the resistance? Does this work or i still need to remove the r50 resistor?

[Pita^Norf]

Originally posted by Scallywhag
Since the r50 resistor is close to 0-1 ohm...can i just like solder another 1k VR on top of the r50 resistor and adjust the resistance? Does this work or i still need to remove the r50 resistor?

if you solder a 1K VR on top of the R50 resistance you would be placing the R50 and VR in parallel, thus the effective reistance will be less than the smallest of the parallel pair i.e less than that of R50 and therefore nothing will be gained.

[Scallywhag]

Thanx for the reply Pita.!!!

[johnrr6]

I'm brand new to the board but all I can say is------You guys are AWESOME! :toast:

Just finished the mod and it went like clockwork. I now have a nice 2.95 VDIMM when the bios is set to 2.8. It really brought some fire back into my older spec RAM and I increased my 1:1 overclock by 9 mghtz.

I used a little bit different technique to unsolder the R50 resistor. Call it the two gun-----or------2 soldering iron method.

I used two 15W soldering irons that I let heat up for at least 15 minutes. Then, I just placed a tip at each end of the resistor and when the solder turned to liquid----I just lifted the resistor off the board pinched between the two iron's tips.

This left most of the solder nicely on each pad so I didn't have to worry about losing the pad. I added a small drop of solder on each pad just to assist in more easily soldering the wires.

I epoxied the trimmer onto the top of an IDE connection in order to be able to get to it easily.

Fired up the machine and with Hardware Doctor open-----used the trimmer to adjust the VDIMM. I turned the screw VERY slowly so as to not get any big jumps in voltage.

GREAT mod!!! Afraid you fellas have given me the itch. Now I'll probably HAVE to mod every board I ever own. See pics below and thanks again-----John :thumbsup:

http://www.frontpage2000.family-net.org/jris/VoltModWeb1.jpg
http://www.frontpage2000.family-net.org/jris/VoltModWeb2.jpg

[n6b72g]

I did this mod a little different. I was able to acomplish this mod with no direct soldering to the board, using smd grabbers, a 1K variable resistor, and a flathead screwdriver.

First I took a flathead screwdriver and worked the R50 resistor loose, like nycundaground had done. After the R50 resistor was off I began soldering my connections. I took one smd grabber and soldered a wire to it and soldered the other end of the wire to the outside leg of my resistor. Next I took another SMD grabber and soldered a wire to it and then soldered the other end of the wire to the middle leg of my resistor. After my soldering was done I took the SMD grabber attached to the outer leg of my resistor and attached it to the 4th leg down on the winbond chip next to the R50 resistor, like Tedinde had done. I then took the SMD grabber attached to the middle leg of my resistor and attached it to the outer leg of the mosfet directly to the right of the winbond chip, like Nohto had mentioned in his post on page 7.

Im not sure if I would recommend my method, but it worked for me.

EDIT: Well it turns out i did have to soler directly to my board. The 4th leg on the winbond chip actually broke off (they are very fragile). :eek: There was still a little of the leg left, which i soldered too. Amazingly the board still works fine.

[NyCUndaGrounD]

Great Job guys!! on the vdimm mods. Ic7-G is sitting in my closet for now, until i get a coolermaster case which will be used as backup pc.

[JToolz]

This vmod is next in line for me. Great job on those vmods guys.

[Underwater Mike]

Guys,

Excellent thread with great instructions. Too bad I screwed mine anyway: http://www.abxzone.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=522450#post522450. :bsod:

Don't want to hijack the thread, but what about a P4C800-E as a replacement? Looks like the Vmod on that one is easier/solderless?

P.S. If you're thinking of this mod and are too cheap to buy the necessary materials, let me know and I'll send you my nicely soldered and wrapped pot and leads!

[NyCUndaGrounD]

Well i think the vdimm on Pc4800-e is easier because your dealing with more solder space. In the Ic7-g, your confined to those little 2 spots for soldering whereas for the p4c800-e, you have 2 legs to solder it to.

[Goli]

sorry i am new in this forum, getting more voltaje you can increase more the FSB of the MOBO? what are the avdvantages to increase more the voltaje of the VDIMM?

Thanks a lot

[Underwater Mike]

Thanks. I think that if I get the Asus board as a replacement I will do the mod with grabbers instead of solder. I can solder everything else away from the board, but after this expensive mistake I don't want to develop my soldering skills any more irght now.:brick:

[NapalmV5]

Is there any other way of doing the vmem mod without removing R50 ?

[BioBlade]

i am going to do the v-mod verry soon and put my geil golden dragon on 3.2v , but what is the best v-mod and what to use ?

thanx allready

[Intronic]

yea, i dont want the risk to f*ck my board again with the r50 resistor .. so ill just wait till a other solution :p:

[Astroman]

Originally posted by NapalmV5
Is there any other way of doing the vmem mod without removing R50 ?

no. If you leave R50 in place, there will always be ZERO resistance, and no way to ADD resistance to a dead short without removing the dead short.

[NyCUndaGrounD]

Originally posted by NapalmV5
Is there any other way of doing the vmem mod without removing R50 ?

Yea its called buying the Max3

:toast:

[hipro5]

I just HAVE to post this cos I receive a lot of PMs about the Vmem modd and I'll post here so as to be seen.........

The VTT is a bit dificult cos a trace HAS to be cut.....So we leave it........

The whole Vmem thread on IC7 Mobo is WRONG......It's based on trick the winbond chip to read less Vmem and on it's output give more........It wants some mamperes to work right......With ONLY one resistor and a BIG one(330 Ohms) you drop it's "reading" voltage BUT you DON'T feed it with the current it wants so as to work properly......The secret is : Unsolder the R50 resistor and on it's place solder a 10 Ohms(ten Ohms) resistor......Now on the left side of the resistor of the 10 Ohms,the side that is close to winbond chip,you SOLDER a trimmer of 220 or 200 or 330 Ohms to GROUND.........After soldering it you take a multimeter and you put it in Ohms reading.......You trim the trimmer so us to show you it's max resistence....You'll NOT see 330 Ohms(in case of a 330 trimmer....You'll see about 70 Ohms.......If I remember well.....Boot up and you'll mesure with a 200 Ohms trimmer about 2.73Vmem........You can now trim it slowly and you can get Vmem as much is your 3.3Volts line minus .12Volts......Example.....IF your 3.3Volts line is 3.4Volts , you'll get about 3.28Vmem.........and so on......If you modd your PSU at 3.6Volts , you can get as high as 3.48Vmem..........With this modd you do NOT have to worry IF your mobo is going to start or not cos with the way the Vmem modd is done(with the 330 Ohms resistor in R50's place) is wrong........With this Modd It'll start........Good luck......... ;)

http://www.pctech.gr/hipro5/photos/P4%20ES/png/WinbondMon_png.png

[Pejsen]

Originally posted by hipro5
........Good luck......... ;)



Thanks Hipro :) Now it makes sence and this was just the mod i was looking for :D Althoug Tom already told me what to do :p:

[johnrr6]

Hip-------OK----got mine done the "wrong way" and never had a boot issue----but I'm only going as high as 3.0 VDIMM.

If I wanted to easly fix it to your way:

I'd just snip off the 1k trimmer at the end of the wires I already have soldered into the R50 pads and solder in a 10 ohm resistor to the end of the two wires.

Then add the trimmer to the wire closest to the winbond chip----middle pin to ground and an outside leg to the wire closest to the Winbond chip. (or is it the other way around)?

With multimeter----trim the trimmer to max resistance.

Boot-----use Winbond Hardware doctor to see what your VDIMM is.

Trim to the desired VDIMM.

Have I got it right??

This way I don't have to unsolder any wires from the R50 pads.

Any problems with VTT when you hit say 3.1 or 3.2 VDIMM???

John

[Astroman]

I don't get it. I have mine done the way which you claim is "wrong", but it works and I've adjusted up to 3.1volts for my vdimm.

What is wrong? why does it work if its wrong, and if its not really working what is actually happening?

[Manoj]

I also have it modded the wrong way and it does 3.25V easily without any problems.

[hipro5]

Guys.....mesure the Vmem(Vdim) with a multimeter and don't trust the Winbond hardware monitor to do that for you........... ;)

When you have to get more Vmem out of it and you trimm the trimmer to do so(in case of a trimmer in R50's place),you get some more Vmem more......When you shut down your computer and after you restart....NO BOOT.....You have to trimm the trimmer backwords so as to get less Vmem so as to start the Mobo.After the Mobo starts, you have to trimm again so as to get the Vmem the Volts it was.......With my way the Mobo starts immediatly as it was before with the Vmem you have picked....... ;)

I don't care if you do the excisting Modd or mine.....Do whatever you like........It's up to you....... ;) :D

[hipro5]

Originally posted by johnrr6
Hip-------OK----got mine done the "wrong way" and never had a boot issue----but I'm only going as high as 3.0 VDIMM.

IF you try to get more Volts(mV) out of it , your Mobo will not start ;)

If I wanted to easly fix it to your way:

I'd just snip off the 1k trimmer at the end of the wires I already have soldered into the R50 pads and solder in a 10 ohm resistor to the end of the two wires.

Then add the trimmer to the wire closest to the winbond chip----middle pin to ground and an outside leg to the wire closest to the Winbond chip. (or is it the other way around)?

You can leave your 1K trimmer as is and unsolder the midle pin of it from the wire that it goes at R50's place.....The midle wire goes to Ground...The ather pin of the trimmer MUST be on the left side of R50 which is close to Winbond chip......Now you can solder a 10 Ohms resistor to the pin of the trimmer WITH the wire witch goes to Winbond chip and it's other end to the wire which comes from the other pad of the R50,the one close to a Mos-fet.....

With multimeter----trim the trimmer to max resistance.

Yes

Boot-----use Winbond Hardware doctor to see what your VDIMM is.

Best way is to use a multimerer to mesure the Vmem cos Winbond hardware monitor "shows" as it wishes.....

Trim to the desired VDIMM.

Yes

Have I got it right??

Yes

This way I don't have to unsolder any wires from the R50 pads.

You are right

Any problems with VTT when you hit say 3.1 or 3.2 VDIMM???

John

No problems at all......The only problem is that when you trimm to get more Vmem,then the VTT will be lower than the half of the Vmem.......Problem with this is that if you want to pick over 3.35Vmem,and your VTT is about 1.4Volts,your ram will be in a lower frequency than it would have been with the VTT at half of Vmem .......

[trifler]

Hipro5 this is all very nice but could you complete with a picture.
Cause we all know that a picture says more than a thousand words :)

I may be a minority but i dont make any changes untill im 150% sure of what im doing is right. And im actullay thinking och doing the vmem mod to my ic7-g. But as i said i need to be very sure of that im doing the right thing.

[Astroman]

I never have to make any adjustments to my trimmer, the system boots and reboots every time.

I'm not saying that is the case for everyone, but it works for me! :D

[johnrr6]

Hip----think I get it

Take a look at these drawings:

Will either one work??

With a 1K trimmer-----what should I see as max resistance----or what should I trim to initially-----to start out at a safe 2.8-2.9 VDIMM------250-300 ohm???

What points on the board are you using to measure VDIMM with a multimeter??

http://www.frontpage2000.family-net.org/jris/Schem1a.jpg

http://www.frontpage2000.family-net.org/jris/Schem2.jpg

Thanks----John

[hipro5]

Yeap.......BOTH of these scheems are good........You can mesure the Vmem on the upper Mos-Fet(above R50) on it's right pin......... ;) :D

[trifler]

both drawings are the same..

[johnrr6]

One the leg of the 10 ohm resistor is soldered onto the leg of the trimmer as well as a wire is soldered onto the same leg

The other has the resistor attached at the end of the two wires and then a wire attached to the trimmer and the Winbond side wire at midpoint.

Both drawings do the same thing though----just different way of soldering wires.

John

[trifler]

That dosen't make any diffrence just that the pot gets farther away from the resistor.. summa kardemumma två dåliga likadana scheman.. Smart att göra två likadana..

[cpulloverclock]

Originally posted by trifler
That dosen't make any diffrence just that the pot gets farther away from the resistor.. summa kardemumma två dåliga likadana scheman.. Smart att göra två likadana.. summa kardemumma två dåliga likadana scheman.. Smart att göra två likadana

?

[johnrr6]

You are correct----no real difference.

Just different solder point farther down the Winbond side wire.

John

[trifler]

so which mod should one make.. The one with just the resistor or the on with the extra pot.

[Pita^Norf]

Originally posted by trifler
so which mod should one make.. The one with just the resistor or the on with the extra pot.

I think if you're going to perform the mod you may as well do the full job (trimmer with 10ohm fixed) as it only involves a little extra soldering and would spare you of having to pull your board out again.

[johnrr6]

I did the mod as outlined by fugger:

1k trimmer-----winbond side wire to middle pin----mosfet side wire to one outer leg----other outside leg of trimmer is not used------no extra resistor.

Works fine up to about 3.0 VDIMM-----above that---and you may start to have problems with fluctuation and you may not get your board to post every time.

Hipro5s method----which I have not done yet----is to add a 10 Ohm resistor and to change the wiring a bit:

Middle pin of the 1k trimmer to ground--------one outside leg of the trimmer connected to both wires with the resistor-------other outside leg of trimmer is not used

Once you get the two wires soldered on the pads of R50----you can do either, easily.

It is removig the R50 resistor and soldering the two wires that is tough to do.

John

[BioBlade]

does anyone have a clearly good pic for me of the mod so i can do it without problem and blewing up my ic7 :p:

thanx

[LikwidKool]

I am confused hipro, as I have done my vmem the "wrong" way and have made many adjustments on the fly, and never had any problem booting up later. My only problem is not being able to stably go above 3.0vmem like john. When I set the trimmer to 3.1 it will go from 2.96-3.1. Too much variance for me. Set at 3.0 is will only droop to 2.96-3.0 . I am wondering though if your method will allow me to set a higher stable vmem. what do you think?

[hipro5]

Originally posted by LikwidKool
I am confused hipro, as I have done my vmem the "wrong" way and have made many adjustments on the fly, and never had any problem booting up later. My only problem is not being able to stably go above 3.0vmem like john. When I set the trimmer to 3.1 it will go from 2.96-3.1. Too much variance for me. Set at 3.0 is will only droop to 2.96-3.0 . I am wondering though if your method will allow me to set a higher stable vmem. what do you think?

YES you will able to get more Vdimm with my method.......If your PSU has 3.4Volts rail, you'll get about 3.2Vdimm+...... ;)

[LikwidKool]

ok thanks. Gonna have to do it when I have a free moment. You had said that soldering the pot to wires already connected to the R50 spots is ok right? I just don't feel like desoldering the existing wires and risk the R50 pad's any more than I need too!

[charlie]

Da*n!!!!
I just got a new IC7 and took a look at the mod...R50, ouch! that's a TINY resistor...and one NAAAAsty mod.
I will try 2 low power soldering irons and use them as tweezers, but as far as soldering new wires, hmmmmmmmmm.... not sure about that one. With a nice workbench and a small magnifying glass it's possible.
BTW, my IC7 came with the Max3 style NB hs/f...cool.
C

[Underwater Mike]

Charlie,

Actually, removing the resistor wasn't the tough part for me. I destroyed mine getting the leads back onto the R50 pads.

Good luck!

[johnrr6]

I used the "tweezer method" with two 15 Watt soldering irons-----worked like a charm for me AND left a lot of solder on the R50 pads.

I practiced on an old circuit board about three times before I had it down pat-----and I let my irons heat for 15 min before I even tried.

I did not use ANY solderwick as I was afraid I suck up all the solder off the pad.

I then added a small drop of solder to each pad.

Using the drop of solder and the way it came off my iron----it actually built up each pad to a small little "tower"-----which was much easier to solder the individual wires to.

I got a lighted magnifying, swing out, workbench lamp to help-----it was invaluable as the parts are REALLY small.

John

[PIRATA!]

Hi to everyone.
I am about to buy an ABIT IC7 -NOT- G.
I have allready tested the Rams that I will mount on it and I have found that I need about +0.1V or +0.2V on the max VMem available.

What are the specs of the resistor (Ohm/Watt/Tolerance) that I have to place on the R50 to have a +0.1V??
And what will it be to have a +0.2V??

Thank you very much. :)

[trifler]

you just do the mod with the pot. Then you just measure with a multimeter and stop turning when the vmem voltage suits you.

gl

[PIRATA!]

Originally posted by trifler
you just do the mod with the pot. Then you just measure with a multimeter and stop turning when the vmem voltage suits you.

gl

Yes.. you are right.. but I would like to use a static resistor to give a fixed +0.1V or +0.2V to the VMem
Does anyone know the right Ohm/Watt/Tolerance of this kind of resistor?
Thank you.

[RansoM]

Originally posted by PIRATA!
Yes.. you are right.. but I would like to use a static resistor to give a fixed +0.1V or +0.2V to the VMem
Does anyone know the right Ohm/Watt/Tolerance of this kind of resistor?
Thank you.
Every mobo is different so there is no exact value I can give you, but 330 ohm resistor will give approx +0.2V. If you want +0.1V just set the bios value to 2.7V. Since the value 330 ohm is not and exact value, the tolerance is not important. You can messure it to see that it`s close to 330 ohm if you want. There`s not much amps going through this resistor so what "watt" value the resistor is rated for, make no differents.

[general_rommel]

I just went down to the electronics store today and got them to do the IC7 VDIMM mod for me. Here is a link to the diagram i followed http://www.frontpage2000.family-net.org/jris/Schem1a.jpg .

It was all looking good and the resistor and wires were all done correctly. I got it home plugged it in - after clearing CMOS and booted it up.......
No post..... I replaced all the components and tried again....
No post..... I removed it from the case and only used bare essentials plugged in.....
POST!! yay i thought - my motherboard isn't broken . But then i looked down and i realised that the leg i needed to ground wasn't grounded. So i shut down --> grounded it --> booted up again and.....
No post..... If i ground the wire while the computer is running it instantly freezes.

Does anyone know what could be going wrong?????

Any help would be appreciated

[RansoM]

Originally posted by general_rommel
I just went down to the electronics store today and got them to do the IC7 VDIMM mod for me. Here is a link to the diagram i followed http://www.frontpage2000.family-net.org/jris/Schem1a.jpg .

It was all looking good and the resistor and wires were all done correctly. I got it home plugged it in - after clearing CMOS and booted it up.......
No post..... I replaced all the components and tried again....
No post..... I removed it from the case and only used bare essentials plugged in.....
POST!! yay i thought - my motherboard isn't broken . But then i looked down and i realised that the leg i needed to ground wasn't grounded. So i shut down --> grounded it --> booted up again and.....
No post..... If i ground the wire while the computer is running it instantly freezes.

Does anyone know what could be going wrong?????

Any help would be appreciated
Have you addjusted the pot to 200 ohm or so?

[general_rommel]

I set the resistor to 0 Ohms to start off with and then tried it at 250 and there was no change in the problem

[BioBlade]

could we do te mod without taking de r50 off ? just soldering a kind of resistor on top of the r50 ?

thanx already:p:

[johnrr6]

Originally posted by general_rommel
I just went down to the electronics store today and got them to do the IC7 VDIMM mod for me. Here is a link to the diagram i followed http://www.frontpage2000.family-net.org/jris/Schem1a.jpg .

It was all looking good and the resistor and wires were all done correctly. I got it home plugged it in - after clearing CMOS and booted it up.......
No post..... I replaced all the components and tried again....
No post..... I removed it from the case and only used bare essentials plugged in.....
POST!! yay i thought - my motherboard isn't broken . But then i looked down and i realised that the leg i needed to ground wasn't grounded. So i shut down --> grounded it --> booted up again and.....
No post..... If i ground the wire while the computer is running it instantly freezes.

Does anyone know what could be going wrong?????

Any help would be appreciated

Maybe a short

Try a different ground.

Try 300 Ohm resistance

Check to make sure they used the correct resistors

Swap your Ram around

Go to post 181 in this thread and you can try the mod a bit different way-----you won't have to unsolder the wires from the board-----just the ones at the trimmer----you do not need the 10 Ohm resistor-----just the 1k Trimmer

Left side of R50 to Middle leg
Right side of R50 to either outer leg

This was the original method outlined by Fugger and it is stable up to about 2.95 - 3.0

Hipro 5's method is stable to 3.1 - 3.2 and eliminates the problem of sometimes no post at VDIMMs higher than about 3.0

Good luck------John

[general_rommel]

Thanks heaps, but still no luck

I have tried 3 different grounds
I cannot see if its shorting - i think that i will just try the original method - however i was looking to increase VDIMM to around 3.2.

[PIRATA!]

These methods are very good, but I would like to make a little VMod do have only about a +0.1V or at max +0.2V.
I would like to do this in the simplest way possible.
If I solder a 300 Ohm resistor ON TO the R50 resistor WITHOUT desoldering it, will I have the SAME resaults??

Thank you very much.

[johnrr6]

Originally posted by PIRATA!
These methods are very good, but I would like to make a little VMod do have only about a +0.1V or at max +0.2V.
I would like to do this in the simplest way possible.
If I solder a 300 Ohm resistor ON TO the R50 resistor WITHOUT desoldering it, will I have the SAME resaults??

Thank you very much.

No----resistor MUST be removed.

[general_rommel]

My mod didn't work and to top that off - when i removed my mobo from my case the resistor fell off and took the solder pads with it.

From what people have said before i am going to connect the 4th leg of the windbond chip to a ground on the mosfet - and i am going to connect a resistor in here to increase the VDIMM to an extra 0.4V if its possible. I have no ellectronics experience - what resistor whould you recommend?

[PIRATA!]

Originally posted by johnrr6
No----resistor MUST be removed.

Ok.. thank you.
Is there another kind of VMod that can avoid any desoldering stuff or the use of the trimmer??
I like the old fashion "static-resistor" way. :)

Thank you again.

[johnrr6]

Originally posted by PIRATA!
Ok.. thank you.
Is there another kind of VMod that can avoid any desoldering stuff or the use of the trimmer??
I like the old fashion "static-resistor" way. :)

Thank you again.

Not that I know of on an IC7------you can use SMD grabbers----but you still have to remove the resistor.

I understand you can do a VDIMM volt mod on the Asus P4C800-E Deluxe entirely without soldering or removing anything.

John

[PIRATA!]

Ok!
And considering to remove the R50 resistor... will it be good to use a regular 300 Ohm resistor with the less tolerance possible??

Thank you.

[johnrr6]

But I'd stick with a 1K Trimmer

Gives you flexibility for more voltage as increasing resistance increases voltage on this mod

Before you even solder anything-----use a mutimeter and set your resistance to 250-300 ohms on the trimmer

thats a good starting point

John

[general_rommel]

I was just thourouly reading the posts and someone said that i can solder to the left leg of the resistor below R50 if the pit was pulled up. Is this true? because it is only the left side of the R50 that is missing the pit

[kingassasin]

OK, I'am getting ready to try this thing and nervous as hell. I got and old sound card which has a gazillion little resistors like r50. Been de-soldering the hell out of em. Got a bald headed card now. What seems to be working the best is to use a pair of twessers pulling up on one side and heat. That side releases and the do the same of the other side. Every one on the test card came up leaving two shinny pads. I'am confused about "losing the pad or well". What happens and what would it look like if this happens?

[Underwater Mike]

Simple: You won't see the shiny spot of solder.

In my experience, removing the R50 speck was not too tough, just tedious and needing a careful hand. Soldering on the new leads properly was what killed me.


Originally posted by kingassasin
I'am confused about "losing the pad or well". What happens and what would it look like if this happens?

[Nohto]

Does anyone know the value of the resistor just below the R50 resistor? I believe it is the MC64. See Pic

[hipro5]

Originally posted by Nohto
Does anyone know the value of the resistor just below the R50 resistor? I believe it is the MC64. See Pic

It's an SMD capasitor of about 100nF/16Volts+

[Nohto]

Thanks Hipro. Changed out the resistor and modded the mem, for the 5th time, but no matter what I adjust the damm resistor to it doesn't change the vddr at all. WTF is going on? I have done this mod on a previous board with no problems, I am sure I am doing it right, but this damm thing doesn't work!!!!!! Any sugg? I am going to try Hipro's resistor and see if that helps any.

[Nohto]

I finally got it. Didn't add the 10 ohm resistor. I just took a small needle and scrapped between each leg of the chip and around the resistor and cap. Must of had small amount of solder shorting something out. I used a jewelers glass and didn't see anything, but after that I fired it up and then dialed the vddr to 3.28. Time to put it back together slap the Promie on it and hope my 9800 is condensate proof enough to get some decent benches going.

[kingassasin]

Well, I did it without any problems. Setting bios to 2.8 yields 2.99. Turned the vr up a little but not much. Ram will now run @ 274fsb @ 2-5-2-2 which the highest it would go before is 267 @ those timings. :toast:

[Snoozy]

Anyone know what the radio shack part number for the 1K pot is? Or what its name is? I've been searching radioshack.com like crazy for this thing.

[Snoozy]

http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLG&category%5Fname=CTLG%5F011%5F002%5F011%5F000&product%5Fid=271%2D280

Is that what I want?

[CATCH22ATPLAY]

Eeek gads no. Don't use that pos unless you really want problems. I hope you got a Fryes close by. RadioShack parts are just not for me. But if that's your only choice well you can try this instead. http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLG&category%5Fname=CTLG%5F011%5F002%5F011%5F000&product%5Fid=271%2D342

[N803]

okay... I'd like to give a little feedback on my mod...

First please note that my IC7-G is a version 1.1 and while I didn't think that would make any difference...

Taking off R50 was no big deal and since I had a few resistors "in stock" I didn't bother going out to get a pot. I ended up soldering a pair of thin wires to R50's pads cause it was so damn difficult to solder the resistor directly, which in the end turned out to be a good thing.

First resistor I tried was a 330 ohms. Post ok, but got a BSOD when WinXP came in. I made sure all BIOS settings were back to default and tried again... another BSOD. :mad:

So I thought 330 ohms was too much and tried shorting it - after all R50 was supposed to be a 0 ohm resistor, right? Well... as soon as I hit the power button it beeped pretty loud at me... :( At this point I thought I was screwed... the short didn't work...

Then I tried other values, including 10 ohms, all lower than the original 330 ohms I first used. Neither worked.

Since 330 ohms got me the farthest - almost into Windows - I decided to try a 390 ohms resistor just for the sake of it... and guess what... everything worked just fine... :confused:

So now at 2.5V in BIOS I get 2.75V in Winbond, but at least it's working fine at 240 FSB right now - my previous stable record. I haven't had much time to try higher overcloks yet, though, which I'll do tonight.

Can anybody explain to me what might have happened...?

Thanks,

[scifikg]

Will these parts work for the Hipro method?

10 ohm surface mount resistor Part#RL12S10.0GCT-ND (http://dkc3.digikey.com/PDF/T033/0798.pdf)
200 ohm trimmer Part#CT94P201-ND (http://dkc3.digikey.com/PDF/T033/0840.pdf)

[hipro5]

Originally posted by scifikg
Will these parts work for the Hipro method?

10 ohm surface mount resistor Part#RL12S10.0GCT-ND (http://dkc3.digikey.com/PDF/T033/0798.pdf)
200 ohm trimmer Part#CT94P201-ND (http://dkc3.digikey.com/PDF/T033/0840.pdf)

Yes they will.......... ;)