How do I mount a PA120.3 with yateloons and a case?

[FrozenShinobi]

Well I have a PA120.3, 3 yateloons, and a u2-ufo. The way the yate loons cover the screw holes you need some crazy long screws that go through the fan grill, the case, the whole fan, and the rad. The supplied screws are not even half as long as that...

[creidiki]

Buy longer screws?

3.5mm x whatever you need, self-tapping/sheet metal screws, IIRC.

[Jupiler]

3.5*32mm sheet metal screws should be ok.


@creidiki :
congrats with your 4.000 posts. ;)

[syne_24]

yea i wasnt too happy with the screws selection as well. I couldnt find nothing at the hardware store so I end up tapping it to 6-32; which is what it should have been in the first place.

[creidiki]

The subject of screw holes and their threafing (or lack thereof) on PAs came up once when I was asking Marci for help on something similar.

He's been meaning to move it all to M4 thread, but there are technical difficulties.

congrats with your 4.000 posts. ;)
\o/ :toast:

[septim]

tapping the PA screw holes to 6-32 worked fine for me, using some standoffs and thumbscrews also 6-32 to mount on the back of my case...

as for the yate loons, you could probably dremel/file off the excess plastic to be able to use shorter screws...

[SiGfever]

I too bought a 6-32 tap and tapped all the screw holes. Machine screws are easier to use and they don't have that nice rad puncturing point. :D

If you have an Ace Hardware store near you they have a great supply of screws, taps and tap handles. I mounted mine in a pull configuration using the shroud. Just make sure that you seal the fans to the Rad for best airflow.

Be sure to measure the screws that you need and if they are too long you can put a nut up on the screws upstream of the length that you need and cut the screw with a hacksaw. Then when you remove the nut it acts as a die to re-cut the threads.

I also took a lesson from nikhsub1 and bought the filter grills for all intake fans on my UFO. They don't stop all the dust but they sure do help.

[freecableguy]

You don't need to tap anything....use self-taping sheet metal screws. I outline everything here in post #2: http://www.thetechrepository.com/showthread.php?t=13

[SiGfever]

You don't need to tap anything....use self-taping sheet metal screws. I outline everything here in post #2: http://www.thetechrepository.com/showthread.php?t=13
So then the screw is either a Zip-in (sharp point) or Bit-tip (drill point screw).

[Marci]

http://store.over-clock.com/Miscellaneous2.html#a400

Bottom item on page...

[septim]

do you have the length for those screws marci?
for those who want to buy locally...

[Marci]

Type "C" Self-Tapping Screws, CRZ PAN.

3.5 x 38.0 (mm)
6 x 1.5 (inch)

Sized for thru grill, thru case, thru fan, thru gasket, into rad.

[syne_24]

2 inch if you want to use for 38mm fan. But it must go through grill, fan, and gasket. Just dont overtighten; it's very close.

[Emmett]

I tapped the existing holes in mine to 6-32.
I used a 120mm fan as a spacer and choked up on the tap through the handle
a little so the tip only stuck out about an 1/8 inch out the bottom of the fan
then tapped each one, no danger at all of hurting the rad. Took my time as
it is a really good looking radiator (PA 120.3)

Also for the screws you can use the electricians tool they use for cutting
wire, stripping it. it also has threaded holes where you screw in 6-32, 8-32
and a few other sizes and it EASILY cuts the screw to whatever length you
want, then you screw it back out, and your thread is still good.

I forget what it's called :rolleyes:

It looks like an oversize pair of pliers.

Emmett