Is this a good WC setup?

[trickstar]

will this setup work?

Parts: from here http://store.over-clock.com/Water_Cooling.html

AquaXtreme 50Z-DC12 Inline Pump 1/2" Barbed Fittings (Blue)
Swiftech STORM (Rev. 2)
ThermoChill PA120.3
ThermoChill PS120 Performance Shroud (Black)
ThermoChill Additional NG120 Neoprene Gaskets
DangerDen Fillport
DangerDen Fillport Reservoir
1/2" ID DangerDen ClearFlex 60 Tubing (7ft) or Tygon?
3/8" BSP 1/2" Barb - Nickel
Worm Drive Hose Clips (10mm to 16mm)
1/2" T-Piece
1/2" Y-Connector


how many fans do i need? 3 (can u recommend any)

also the barbs and hose clips are thos the right ones for the thermochill?

what about the pump?

I'm looking to spend about £250, also I'm only cooling the cpu....im not a gamer so i don't have a high end VGA card.

will this setup work?
http://img149.imageshack.us/img149/1113/wcdn1.jpg


my case:
http://img149.imageshack.us/img149/8466/aerocoolmasstigeb4yr7.jpg

[creidiki]

Drop the drain port, its absolutely useless.

Drop to a smaller rad, for just a CPU there really is no need to spend on a 120.3, a 120.2 with YL/Nexus D12SL-12s @ 5v will be ample.

Get 7/16 Masterkler instead of 1/2 tube with that pump.

And if youre going for whats essentially a T-line already, dont bother with that reservoir, the tube itself will hold more than enough water for a year or so - if it doesent, youve got a very slow leak somewhere.

[Patriote]

I would recommend these Fans : I currently own 4 of them on my PA120.3 and they are quite silent... http://www.frozencpu.com/products/2506/fan-206/Scythe_S-FLEX_SFF21F_120mm_Fan_w_S-FDB_Bearing.html?tl=g36c15s60

They pushes more air than the Yate loons (just a little more) and are as silent as those Yate loons.

[creidiki]

I'm afraid they dont perform as well in actual usage, as well as costing like 3-4 YLs *each*

[Patriote]

Yes. They cost also more than the Yate loons. Forgot to add this info...lol

And why do you say that they dont perform as well ? they do perform pretty well down here... Never tryed thoses Yateloons thought....

[creidiki]

Radical_53 tested fans as well when he did his big Radiator test... the Scythes dont give as good temps as YLs.

My current theory is that the same design that gives that weird rpm-to-cfm ratio (YLs ar 1300RPM, Scythes are 1600RPM) gives them poor static pressure.

W/e the reason, once you hook them up to a rad, even one with an extremely low restriction like a PA, they push less air through tha rad than YLs... resulting in needing more volts to give the same temperatures, hence more noise etc.

I dont know how well they undervolt, but YL D12SL-12s generally go down to 3-3.5v... thats pretty hard to beat.

[Patriote]

Yeah...well, Im happy whit my "Crappy" Scythe S-FLEX™ 120mm Fans! :lol: :hitself:

[creidiki]

Well, at the very least theyre better than the SilenXs I had before I got my YLs :lol2:

[trickstar]

thanks for the replys.....

so which of these two should i go for?

7/16" ID (5/8" OD) Masterkleer PVC Tubing
7/16" ID (9/16" OD ThinWalled) Masterkleer PVC Tubing

will the 120.2 Rad be okay for a quad core cpu? incase i decide to upgrage.

[Patriote]

Ask The creidiki! He knows Everythings :P

[Sparky]

I personally wouldn't go for the thinwalled but that is just me.
As far as the rad goes for quad core I don't know but I would guess a PA120.2 would be fine. Wait for one of the pros to answer that one.

[creidiki]

Go for the 5/8OD, thick-walled stuff.

120.2 is fine for an FX-62 and an X1900XTX... so yes, its more than ample.

Technically a 120.1 is more than enough, but the 120.2 will let you slow down the fans even more cut off some more noise.

[thunderstruck!]

I would also ditch the pump and get a MCP355 with an alphacool top. Will anyone second that?;) I also agree with crediki, no res or drain port.

[Serra]

I would also ditch the pump and get a MCP355 with an alphacool top. Will anyone second that?;) I also agree with crediki, no res or drain port.

I'll second all that, and I like the z50.

And yes, as far as fans go I agree that Yate Loons are the way to go.

But concerning the tubing, I don't see why 1/2" ID tubing isn't suggested more around here. I understand we're talking about a difference of 1/8", but still. You get *extremely marginally* more flow, and can get the tubing over barbs with less hassle. As long as you're using worm clamps the idea of them coming off is a total non-concern, and if you have a large enough case (as most water coolers do) that extra little bit of size for the tube is not a large enough deal to convince me.

[thunderstruck!]

I don't want to dig up Cathar's post, but I think 7/16" actually has more flow than 1/2" because the larger ID tubing doesn't stretch completely over the barbs, instead just "hangs" on them.

[creidiki]

Me and someone who's name I forget did a lot of maths using the pressure drop calculator that Cathar used for his original data...

According to the results and taking into account that the modelling of the barb inetrface pressure drop was rather optimistic, 7/16 will give you better flow in most sitations.

There is a crossover point somewhere above 1.5gpm, where the restriction of the 7/16 tubing outweighs what you save in barb/tube interface turbulence, but that depends on lenght of tubing and the ID of the barbs you use in your blocks.

Note that for the kind of block we work with, you can only realistically achieve these flows with something like a DDC+ with a good top, or an RD-series Iwaki pump, and a single GPU block on top of your Storm/MP-05.

1) With longer tubing and using large-ID barbs (EK barbs and the G3/8 stuff thats used in the original LittleWater blocks by Cathar, as well as the 9/16UNF HighFlow used in AquaXtreme blocks) you will probably end up with marginaly higher flow using 1/2 tube.

2) On the other hand, if you have contained runs - like most people with internally mounted rads - and use small-ID barbs like many G1/4 and 1/4NPT threaded barbs, and/or run multiple GPU blocks, youre probably better off with 7/16.

There are also 2 large caveats here:

1) a precise recomendation needs accurate information on your barbs and tube lenght, and also a rather large assumption on the accuracy of the calculator used, as 1.5gpm+ is a boundary condtion, so gains are likely to be small and your loop *will* take longer to bleed with 1/2 tube due to the lower feet-per-second flow.

2) any gains are likely to be minimal even with impingment or semi-impingment blocks like the MP-05 and Storm. The NexXxoS already shows a much lower response to 1.5gpm+ flows, let alone low restriction blocks like an apogee, where the difference is extremely hard to measure.

Taken all together, the scope where the advantages of 1/2ID tubing outweigh its disadvatages (higher torsional force and weight on blocks which can affect mount quality) is rather contained, and 7/16 is still the best baseline recommendation.

[trickstar]

http://store.over-clock.com/Pumps___Accessories.html

Alphacool Laing DDC-Pump 12V Ultra 1 <<<---is this the same as MCP355 ?
7/16" ID (5/8" OD) Masterkleer PVC Tubing 7
DangerDen Fillport 1
1/2" T-Piece 1
ThermoChill Additional NG120 Neoprene Gaskets (NG120.2 Dual 120mm) 1
ThermoChill PS120 Performance Shroud (Black) 1
Fan Power Converter - 5v 2
Fan Power Converter - 7v 2
UV Reactive Dye (Color: Invisible Blue) 1
Zerex Racing Super Coolant 4oz 1
PTFE Tape 2
Nexus D12SL-12 (Black & White) 120mm Fan 2

Thermochill 120.2
Storm G4

did i get the correct barbs / clips?

1/4" BSP 1/2" Barb - Nickel (Pump) 2
3/8" BSP 1/2" Barb - Nickel (Radiator) 2
Worm Drive Hose Clips (10mm to 16mm) 4 pack 3

is there anything i should change / missed on the list.

thanks

[creidiki]

Yes, its the MCP355 with the Alphacool top (use the top inlet!).

Drop the fixed-speed cables, and get yourself a Sunbeam rheobus.

The pump should come with 2 G1/4(BSP) barbs, but if it doesent then yes, thats the right barbs.

[Serra]

{re: 7/16" vs 8/16"}

Good to know, I'll remember that.

[Alchemy1]

Drop the fixed-speed cables, and get yourself a Sunbeam rheobus.


The sunbeam is great. Just be warned that the LED's are *bright*. You can pick one up from Jab-tech for $10.95 before shipping. http://www.jab-tech.com/Sunbeam-5-1-4-Rheobus-Kit-BLACK-pr-2530.html

[trickstar]

The sunbeam is great. Just be warned that the LED's are *bright*. You can pick one up from Jab-tech for $10.95 before shipping. http://www.jab-tech.com/Sunbeam-5-1-4-Rheobus-Kit-BLACK-pr-2530.html


im in the U.K, and the cheapest i coul find is £16 / $29.94 (xe.com)...

yeah thoase leds are freaking bright, what about any of the two below.

Zalman ZM-MFC1 Fan Controller (http://www.chillblast.com/product.php?productid=364&cat=214)

Akasa Fan Control Pro (http://www.chillblast.com/product.php?productid=16926)

[creidiki]

The sunbeam is the ony widely-available one which uses something approximating analog regulation... the rest are usually PWM, and PWM = more noise from fans.

[JoeBar]

Care to elaborate on this?

[creidiki]

Too drunk to go too far into it (BBQ + Guinness = WIN!) but depending on the frequency of the PWM you either get a high-pitched whining or the fan starts sounding like a jackhammer.

YLs are surprisingly well-behaved under PWM, as youd expect from the best (and cheapest) silent fans around, but theyre still quieter if you give them something approaching an analog output.

Sunbeams arent *quite* full analog, more of a hybrid... but among the widely available fan controllers theyre probably the best in that respect, and theyre one of the few that allow you to use all the voltage range of a YL's motor (down to 3-3.5v).

Theyre only downpoint is the frankly blindingly bright LEDs...

[krylon]

Sent you a PM if you want an HE120.3
They are nice rads too and I use them all the time with low RPM Yates. I think performance would be near PA120.3 and better than PA120.2 with same fans.

[Xavior]

Drop the drain port, its absolutely useless.


Why?

[creidiki]

Because you only drain the PC when you pull the entire loop apart for cleaning, and at that point you might as well just slip a tube off a block over a kitchen pot, and save yourself:

1) expense
2) restriction from t/y-piece
3) the worry from when the anodizing in the fillport wears off and starts attacking your copper.

in fact, ive never managed to see the point of fillports ANYWAY.

its not like youll be refilling your pc evey week and it saves you time by not having to open the case; unless you have a slow leak you will *NEVER* fill your loop apart from after a rebuild, so why bother with a fillport? your case will be open anyway...