PDA

View Full Version : Sprung A leak in MCR220!!! What to do?



Wheatthins
09-15-2006, 11:03 PM
This is my first post and first time watercooling. I've been reading the forums for 3 months and decided to watercool. I bought a kit from petra's techshop (GREAT CUSTOMER SERVICE BTW). I followed the guide on this forum as well as the one that came with the kit. I set everything up, but sprung a leak in the radiator when I screwed down the fans to the radiator...I guess they were to long. Anyway, I've searched the forums and found that a possible solution would be to JB weld the hole...Would it be a good idea? Is it a temporary fix?

I'm thinking of just doing this right and buying a PA120.2 ,but if I do...What screws do I use to secure the fans to the radiator. I don't want to spring a leak again.

Also, I have water in the loop and don't really know how to drain the system. Instructions tell you how to set it up and fill the thing, but nothing on how to drain it. Any advice on this would help. Will I need to buy more tubing?

Storm rev.2
MCR220 Radiator
MCP655
7/16 tubing
Radbox

Thanks in advance for any help offered.:)

_G_
09-15-2006, 11:52 PM
if the rad is mounted internal where it can flood youre case I would say don't chance it. I have used the stuff (jb quick) to fix a dime size hole in a motorcycle radiator. it never leaked and thats with it being used 10 minutes after I fixed it.

MaxxxRacer
09-16-2006, 12:06 AM
if you want to jb weld it, you need to remove the paint off of the radiator first or else the jb weld will pul up the paint and the leak will start all over again.

Personally If i were you I would just get a new rad. you could take it to a facility that repairs car radiators but that would probably not be worth the cost or time considering the cost of the mcr320.

Wheatthins
09-16-2006, 02:16 AM
I'm just going to go ahead and get a PA120.2 (should've done this in the first place). I hope I don't screw up this rad. Thermochills aren't really cheap! :eek: I used Yate Loon's on the MCR220 and the screw hole to mount the fan is covered in pastic. I went out to Ace hardware and bought 1 1/2 in. screws, which caused the puncture when I mounted the fans.

What screws should i use to secure the PA120.2??? Do they come with fan screws to use? Also, I'll be using a Radbox to mount the radiator outside of the case...

Is there a newb guide to draining a loop?

Thanks in advance :)

coyotetu
09-16-2006, 02:50 AM
sometimes they come with screws, I've heard thermochill includes them with all of their radiators, but it's really up to the reseller if they themselves include them, usually they don't, in any case they're not long enough for bridged holes like the Yate Loons.

I use #6 tapered metal sheet screws, about 1 and a quarter inches for Yate Loons, if my memory serves me correctly, but really it's better if you measure it anyways, best of luck.

SiGfever
09-16-2006, 07:15 AM
I bought a "6-32" tap and tap handle so I could tap all the holes. I then use 6-32 "machine screws" to attach the fans and shroud. They are blunt on the end and the machine thread holds great.

Sparky
09-16-2006, 07:31 AM
well if you have a hole in the rad then to drain your system just run it til everything is pumped out of the hole :p:

lol I'm just kidding that would be BAD on the pump when it runs dry, don't do it. I think you have to turn the system upside down to dump it but I'm not really sure.

ShoNuff
09-16-2006, 07:42 AM
Sorry to hear about your misfortune. If you buy a PA from Mountain Mods or DD they should come with small black scews. If you use those screws you will not have any problems. In addition to that I think you will really like the PA series of rads.

voigts
09-16-2006, 08:01 AM
I bought a "6-32" tap and tap handle so I could tap all the holes. I then use 6-32 "machine screws" to attach the fans and shroud. They are blunt on the end and the machine thread holds great.

I just did the exact same thing with my new PA120.3. You can then just buy 1 1/4" 6-32 machine screws and not have to worry about any problems.

septim
09-16-2006, 08:56 AM
I just did the exact same thing with my new PA120.3. You can then just buy 1 1/4" 6-32 machine screws and not have to worry about any problems.

same here,# 6-32 machine screws or stove bolts as we call em here because they don't have pointed tips to puncture rad...
size varies depending on what you have inbetween, just get some 1 1/4, 1 1/2 and 1 3/4 length...

Petra
09-16-2006, 10:14 AM
I used Yate Loon's on the MCR220 and the screw hole to mount the fan is covered in pastic. I went out to Ace hardware and bought 1 1/2 in. screws, which caused the puncture when I mounted the fans.
The MCR220 includes multiple sets of M3.5 machine screws (short and long), all of which are flat-tipped and shouldn't be able to do much more than dimple the radiator's tubes. The longer screws are intended for use with fans like the Yates and work perfectly fine.

Were you missing screws or something?

Photo of the included hardware (http://us.st11.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.com/I/yhst-65556269779593_1910_635142)

As for the repair of the radiator, I'd suggest using JB weld or soldering the hole shut (both of which would require the removal paint around the puncture but that shouldn't be much trouble).

Wheatthins
09-16-2006, 02:38 PM
The MCR220 includes multiple sets of M3.5 machine screws (short and long), all of which are flat-tipped and shouldn't be able to do much more than dimple the radiator's tubes. The longer screws are intended for use with fans like the Yates and work perfectly fine.

Were you missing screws or something?

Photo of the included hardware (http://us.st11.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.com/I/yhst-65556269779593_1910_635142)

As for the repair of the radiator, I'd suggest using JB weld or soldering the hole shut (both of which would require the removal paint around the puncture but that shouldn't be much trouble).

Yea, I don't believe I got those screws with the radiator, but let me check again to make sure. When I open'd the box it had the MCR220 and the Barbs, but no screws. I did get alot of screws with the Radbox though...Maybe those were it??? I went out to ACE hardware and bought 1 1/2 in. flat tipped screws 6-32. When I screwed them in I heard, what I'd assume to be fins, bending. Guess I was wrong.

Quoc has been really helpful with alot of my orders. I'm glad I researched the forums and found Petra's techshop :) . My last 3 orders have been with you based on customer service.

I've pulled the trigger and bought a PA120.2 from dangerden. I guess I got the last one in stock because when I fullfilled the order, it was back to out of stock. Guess I got lucky!

I'm new to watercooling so this is a learning experience for me. I just hope its all worth it in the end.:confused2

Wheatthins
09-16-2006, 07:45 PM
Woot!!! I came home from work and found a package at the front door. :woot: My PA120.2 just came in. It comes with Black Hardened Self-tapper screws (6x1/2") and gasket...Just to make sure, The 1/2" screws are used to secure the fans>>>gasket>>>radiator??? The instructions I got with the package illustrate the use of the shroud in conjunction to the fans, but nothing about fans and gasket alone....



Thanks for the advice in advance :)

Senater_Cache
11-01-2006, 04:22 PM
btw guys, the screws that come with teh MCR rads (MCR320 in my case) are not able to mount Sanyo Denki fans sold at Petras, The long screws are too short for 38mm fans as are the short screws. The denkis have no recessed screw holes which means the screw must pass through all 38mm and still have the screw head and the thread sticking out at each end.
dissapointing

Bad213Boy
11-01-2006, 05:36 PM
ya you would think they're would be aleast a separate option for thermochill to buy a pack of screws that would fit all mounted fans. id pay an extra 5 bucks to get that.

syne_24
11-01-2006, 05:48 PM
Well with the Swiftech rad atleast you dont have to tap the threads. However you do need to pick up a 2 inch 6-32 screws and get a heavy duty wire cuter to snip it off to about 1 3/4. It sucks but all the rads doesnt supply screws for 38mm fan.