Where to find deionized water?

[SiGfever]

Guys I have looked at all the major auto parts stores in my area including NAPA, AutoZone and Advance Auto and no one carries deionized water anymore. They say that people stopped buying it and started using distilled water in their batteries.

Does anyone have any suggestion?
Thanks...

[[XC] Lead Head]

Why do you need it? The second de-ionized water hits the air, it will start getting ions again

[nikhsub1]

Just use distilled... any grocery store.

[SiGfever]

Thanks guys.

I am using distilled but had heard that deionized was better. So I will just continue to use distilled and not worry about it. :toast:

@nikhsub1,

I replaced my 7/16"id Tygon with 1/2"id 3/4"od Tygon going from my res to my pump. I had noticed that the DDC-2 really pulled on the 7/16" and I wanted to ensure maximum supply to the pump's impeller. What do you think?

[Complete]

Hmmm you might see a increase in preformance. Let us know how it goes.

[septim]

yes i think going1/2 from res to pump inlet would be nice, i have a kink on mine just notice after running setup for a week, will have to trim it get a better angle so as not to kink again...

[l1qu1d]

Deionized is not as good as destilled water. Besides destilled passed more manipulation processes, so that it's normally more expensive and couldn't be bought in usual shops - but I don't know how it's handled in the states :confused:

In most instances both types are just mixed up.


[€] @alexio: Destilled is rare at DE.

[SiGfever]

Hmmm you might see a increase in preformance. Let us know how it goes.
I don't have any numbers but to the touch the pump seems to be running cooler.

[Helmore]

Yeah I'd like to know if 7/16" ID tubing really give a performance increase over 1/2" ID tubing or not. I haven't seen any test data on it, but you still hear many people saying that 7/16" ID tubing on 1/2" barbs gives the best performance.

[alexio]

Deionized - dissolved gasses = destilled (more or less)

Btw destilling is no chemical process. Deionizing is. Deionized water might be a little cheaper as it costs less energy, but the difference is small as destilled is sold much more.

Both destilled aswell as deionized water can be had for around $0.50/liter.

[Khaotic]

Yeah I'd like to know if 7/16" ID tubing really give a performance increase over 1/2" ID tubing or not. I haven't seen any test data on it, but you still hear many people saying that 7/16" ID tubing on 1/2" barbs gives the best performance.

I second that. I have a loop i'm getting ready to build next week. I could just go ahead and order a length of 7/16"ID and try it. But I already spent the money on some 1/2" Tygon.

[alexio]

The difference between 1/2" tubing on 1/2" barbs and 7/16" tubing on 1/2" is xtremely small. The 1/2" gives lower temps in the order of 0.1-0.3C. Because the difference is so small the 1/2" tubing is not worth the hassle. 7/16" is much easier to route without kinking, and the 7/16" tubes make a better seal with the 1/2".

According to Cathar.

[HaxR3]

Distilled water is water that has been evapoated then condensed

Deionised is water filtered through deioning coloums of filters

so in theory distilled is better

[scwam]

I'd have to say DI water is higher purtiy than distilled, just because it's distilled doesn't necessary mean things don't pass through the column. HPLC is the best water for purity.

http://boreal.com/Default.asp?
I got my DI water here, they give new customers free shipping too. I also got my reagent grade methanol for cleaning cpu's there too. But they won't send out to the public, you have to tell them your an instructor. I'm placing another order soon.

[specv]

deionized water is only good because it is a poor conductor and in the event you leak onto your motherboard there is a small chance you wont fry it

[CedricFP]

The difference between 1/2" tubing on 1/2" barbs and 7/16" tubing on 1/2" is xtremely small. The 1/2" gives lower temps in the order of 0.1-0.3C. Because the difference is so small the 1/2" tubing is not worth the hassle. 7/16" is much easier to route without kinking, and the 7/16" tubes make a better seal with the 1/2".

According to Cathar.
Actually, i believe Cathar showed 7/16 to have that performance gain.

This is because, I believe, the turbulence decreased from tube-barb is decreased enough to increase flow through a waterblock, therefore resulting in lower temps.

I am talking about turbulence at the entrance to a waterblock, the first barb.

[NickS]

I thought more turbulance is better, no?

[SiGfever]

Yeah I'd like to know if 7/16" ID tubing really give a performance increase over 1/2" ID tubing or not. I haven't seen any test data on it, but you still hear many people saying that 7/16" ID tubing on 1/2" barbs gives the best performance.

Quote:

"This is from Cathar

Quote:
Been rolling the whole tubing size idea around in my head, and thinking about trade-offs and the like.

I like the idea of 3/8" ID tubing, but I just can't shake the feeling that for >4LPM that it starts to become an increasingly significant source of restriction for those who wish to make use of strong pumps capable of pushing the higher flow rates. It's not that 3/8" tubing is bad at all for coping with moderate flow rates, it's just that it could be better. For example at 6LPM, 7' of 3/8" ID tubing is offering pretty close to 1mH2O of pressure drop all by itself.

But 3/8" is attractive because it's very light, and it bleeds air-bubbles fast.

1/2" tubing is fat and unattractive. Unless flow rates are getting past the 6LPM mark, air-bubbles don't bleed very well. It's heavy, and it requires fairly thick walls (1/8") before it can turn good radii without kinking, but this wall thickness comes at a cost of making it stiffer to turn, thus putting more leverage on the water-block's all important thermal contact. However, it takes around 13.5LPM before 7' of 1/2" ID tubing offers 1mH2O of pressure drop, so really it's almost overkill.

So I looked to the middle-ground, that being 7/16" (~11.1mm) that has 3/32" wall thickness for a total of 5/8" OD. Per length of tubing it's about 2/3's the weight of the 1/2" ID (3/4" OD) tubing. Being a thinner ID it is able to be bent into tighter radii without kinking, allowing for the use of the 3/32" wall thickness, which means that it also becomes easier to turn those radii. It offers 1mH2O of pressure drop at 9.5LPM for a 7' length, which pretty much puts it still as a very attractive offering.

Then I took into account stretching the 7/16" ID tubing over 1/2" OD fittings (barbs) with 10mm ID orifices. Due to the "lip effect" the 1/2" ID tubing actually offers nearly 3x the transitioning resistance at fittings as the 7/16" tubing whose ID more closely matches the ID of the fitting. Over a typical full system when fitting resistance is taken into account, the 7/16" ID tubing offers almost the same amount of tubing + fitting resistance as the 1/2" ID tubing.

Results were obtained using the pressure drop calculator from http://www.pressure-drop.org.

This all got me to thinking that really what us 1/2 inchers may really want to be doing is fitting 3/32" thickness walled 7/16" ID tubing over our 1/2" barbed systems, and pretty much be enjoying no extra system resistance, but gaining the benefits of lighter tubing that is easier to bleed (bleeds very well at a predicted ~5LPM), easier to bend, isn't as bulky, "hangs" less off water-blocks, and is significantly cheaper due to less wall material being used."

[pissboy]

Why do you need it? The second de-ionized water hits the air, it will start getting ions again

This is the truth. Where I work we use deionized water in the 18-19 MOHms/cm range, and to get that it needs to continuously loop through the system. The water coming right off the resin bags is 18-19MOhms/cm, but once it hits air, it quickly drops to 4-6MOhm/cm, and falls quickly from there.

[[XC] DragonOrta]

I thought more turbulance is better, no?
At the base of a waterblock, perhaps, but not when you have it going throughout your loop.