View Full Version : Mcw50-t Condensate Proofing
Nohto
04-12-2003, 07:13 AM
I have been trying to figure out a way to condensate proof my Swifty MCW50-T (http://www.swiftnets.com/products/mcw50-T.asp) without going thru changes. Since the block isn't square and with the location or the barbs, this has proven to be somewhat a pain in the a$$ to say the least. Well thanks to Bowman's article (http://www.phase-change.com/index.php?action=Articles_page&cat=Guides&id=25&page=2) where he made a case of sorts to surround his block this gave me an idea. He used sheetmetal, where I used plastic. I had some 1/8x2x2 in. plastic squares that were dividers for hardware organizers. These were flexible pieces and were just about the correct size. I placed each piece in a vise and using a torch and a piece of 1x6in flat steel stock I made 2 90 degree bends. Heat the area just above the vise uniformly without getting the torch too close and use the flat bar to fold it over. The first bend was only about 3/16in just enough to fit under the lip of the block. (Refer to the Swiftech page) The second bend was about 3/4in the remainder of the plastic after a measurement was taken to account for the height of the water jacket (block) and the foam insulation. I used foam from Grainger (http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/productdetail.jsp?xi=xi&ItemId=1611763836) and tacked it onto the block with a hot glue gun (slow drying glue). I then used the same type of glue to assemble the block and then coated it with liquid elec. tape. Fortunately for me I had an extra set of gaskets from Swiftech and installed them making an excellent finished seal.
Nohto
04-12-2003, 07:15 AM
Since I run my coolant at -17c. sealing the block is a necessity.
full loaded
04-12-2003, 11:53 AM
I am still waiting for mine mcw50-t, and want to replace the 80W pelt for a bigger one, like a 174W, but how big is the standaard pelt in it, and can I just change them?
bowman1964
04-12-2003, 12:27 PM
first glad to see my articals help out from time to time..:D
on the peltier.80watt is standard in a Swifty.but if you look, you can find a 172watt pelt that will fitt.the std pelt is 40mm x 40mm and it sometimes isnt easy to find a 40mm x40mm 172watt pelt.
but they do make them because i use one.and it makes a differance on a r9700 pro of about 10 to 15 mhz extra core speed.
on mine if i could keep the r9700 core between -22c and -30c underload it will clock faster.if i stumbled into say -19c it would lock at top speeds.where mine topped out at 490core.
good luck and besure to insulate the top of the card also.i had lots of condensation there without the insulation.
Nohto
04-13-2003, 12:03 AM
I am using a 172w pelt for mine. Got it at DD.
]JR[: Thanks
bowman1964: Yeah, evey once in a while :stick: JK It was a very informative article.
PimpJack
04-20-2003, 10:09 AM
do u guys have problems with condensation on the agp slot and the "teech" of the card? How would u proof that?
piercedandtatto
04-25-2003, 07:37 AM
when u insulate the center of the socket with foam does that effect the heat monitering of the motherboard?
KnightElite
04-25-2003, 07:38 AM
Originally posted by piercedandtatto
when u insulate the center of the socket with foam does that effect the heat monitering of the motherboard?
Not if you're careful and make sure the temperature probe still touches the CPU. Here's mine:
http://homepage.usask.ca/~kdh349/socketcenter.jpg
piercedandtatto
04-25-2003, 07:56 AM
I dont believe mine has a probe like yours....its 2 small squares in the center. Should i just cut a square in the foam to expose them?
http://202.168.194.118/abit/upload/products/BH7_pic6.jpg
bowman1964
04-25-2003, 08:42 AM
yea i see we have moved off a little from the gpu to cpu....LOL
but not sure if this will help any or not but if you are cooling with a prometia or vapo(real cold)....
i have found the abit nf7s and epox 8rda(only 2 new boards i have)have differant ways of monitoring cpu temps.
on the abit it is just like the PIC from KnightElite.and foam works for that but....
my epox has a thermodiode instead of a thermister.this means nothing sticking up to touch cpu.so only way i have found to get close to acurate temps on this board is to still use a piece of foam but cut a small 1/4" hole in it above the diode.now the diode has a clear path to the cpu,but this still doest read close.so i fill the hole with dielectric grease.now the dielectric grease acts like a heat transfer device between the diode and cpu.it improved my temp reading by 10c.still is off but i can live with a few degrees.
if someone will remind me i will try to post a pic of what i am talking about this weekend.i need to take one cooler down so i can take a picture then.