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View Full Version : First run with new H20 setup



Smalltimer
06-24-2006, 06:38 PM
Well I just did a first run with my setup. - As usual things did not go as smoothly as planned :)

My delrin fillport did not fit the DD res. as I had hoped.
I will bring the Danger Den res. to the shop and run a tap to correct the thread pitch, if not I will mount permanently.


Also one of the barbs on my PA 120.3 was leaking.

Could it be that they are contructed of the cheapest most degrading material on earth? perhaps that play'd a factor in the poor seal at the inlet, either way I think I'm going to order some stainless or delrin ones, these things are pathetic!

PS. Anyone know if the top brass screw on the PA RAD is a bleeder valve or not? I had a light go at it with the screwdriver, it seems to be fastened perhaps with a gasket sealant or locktight not sure at this stage.

Overall it went, well though, filling and bleeding was not to bad, a little tricky to get everthing moving about at first but nothing a little hose squeezing and RAD shaking couldn't work out.

I cleaned out my rad and block. I don't know about other setups but I was not able to get anything worth talking about from my parts during the rinse. They looked pretty clean overall.

sdkevin
06-24-2006, 06:44 PM
wrap some Teflon Tape over poly batbs and you'll be fine

qdemn7
06-24-2006, 07:15 PM
Also one of the barbs on my PA 120.3 was leaking.

Could it be that they are contructed of the cheapest most degrading material on earth? perhaps that play'd a factor in the poor seal at the inlet, either way I think I'm going to order some stainless or delrin ones, these things are pathetic!

PS. Anyone know if the top brass screw on the PA RAD is a bleeder valve or not? I had a light go at it with the screwdriver, it seems to be fastened perhaps with a gasket sealant or locktight not sure at this stage. Use some teflon tape on the barbs. And yes that top screw is a bleed screw. Thermochill FAQs.
(http://www.over-clock.com/articles.php?action=show&showarticle=19)

4 - Mounting
The ThermoChill rads are designed for vertical mounting with barbs to the bottom and bleed screw to the top. The system should then be assembled and fitted with the reservoir higher than the top of the radiator. To bleed the radiator you then simply open the bleed screw, open the reservoir. Gravity will do the rest.

Obviously this mounting can prove difficult in a lot of cases. Therefore top-mounting is often recommended, with barbs to the back of the case. This allows you to lie the case on it's back face (where everything plugs in). By removing a 5.25" blank you gain access to the bleed screw. You then lift the res out of the case and bring it towards the front, again so that it is higher than the end of the rad, and open valves on the rad and res (or if it's a bay res just pull it forward).

Smalltimer
06-24-2006, 07:48 PM
Use some teflon tape on the barbs. And yes that top screw is a bleed screw. Thermochill FAQs.
(http://www.over-clock.com/articles.php?action=show&showarticle=19)

4 - Mounting
The ThermoChill rads are designed for vertical mounting with barbs to the bottom and bleed screw to the top. The system should then be assembled and fitted with the reservoir higher than the top of the radiator. To bleed the radiator you then simply open the bleed screw, open the reservoir. Gravity will do the rest.

Obviously this mounting can prove difficult in a lot of cases. Therefore top-mounting is often recommended, with barbs to the back of the case. This allows you to lie the case on it's back face (where everything plugs in). By removing a 5.25" blank you gain access to the bleed screw. You then lift the res out of the case and bring it towards the front, again so that it is higher than the end of the rad, and open valves on the rad and res (or if it's a bay res just pull it forward).

Thanks thats exactly what I was hoping for :)
One more question... is there a particular order that things work best in?
ex: Pump out > block inpingement in > res. > RAD > Pump in

Also the instructions with the pump seem to be in German or something (not sure) but I was not able to identify the flow direction on the Alphacool Laing DDC Pro. Anyone know this?

tommrussell
06-24-2006, 08:34 PM
9 - Recommended setups
If using an impingement block (3 barbs) or a Cascade or TDX block, always try to go Pump > Block > Rad > Res for best performance. In case of a hot running pump, go pump > rad > block > res

give this a try

ReD.SkY
06-24-2006, 08:37 PM
click the link in my sig if u want some metal barbs