After a Long Day here is final V2000B...

[Grinch]

I ended up redoing my entire watercooling setup today and would like to share the end results with everybody...I added a Maze4 to my loop and I must say I am VERY impressed with the results. My video card used to idle at 53-57C after adding to fans to my side panel...now....bliss! Just want to thank everybody for helping me out hope you like the pics...oh yeah 1 more thing...today was the 1st time I had cleaned my storm block and what was inside still remains a mystery:

http://s2.supload.com/thumbs/default/Picture_026.jpg (http://s2.supload.com/free/Picture_026.jpg/view/)
http://s2.supload.com/thumbs/default/Picture_027.jpg (http://s2.supload.com/free/Picture_027.jpg/view/)
http://s2.supload.com/thumbs/default/Picture_029.jpg (http://s2.supload.com/free/Picture_029.jpg/view/)
http://s2.supload.com/thumbs/default/Picture_032.jpg (http://s2.supload.com/free/Picture_032.jpg/view/)
http://s2.supload.com/thumbs/default/Picture_034.jpg (http://s2.supload.com/free/Picture_034.jpg/view/)
http://s2.supload.com/thumbs/default/afterredo.bmp (http://s2.supload.com/free/afterredo.bmp/view/)
http://s2.supload.com/thumbs/default/vidredo.bmp (http://s2.supload.com/free/vidredo.bmp/view/)
http://s2.supload.com/thumbs/default/Picture_037-20060521115505.jpg (http://s2.supload.com/free/Picture_037-20060521115505.jpg/view/)
http://s2.supload.com/thumbs/default/Picture_038-20060521115512.jpg (http://s2.supload.com/free/Picture_038-20060521115512.jpg/view/)
http://s2.supload.com/thumbs/default/Picture_039.jpg (http://s2.supload.com/free/Picture_039.jpg/view/)
http://s2.supload.com/thumbs/default/Picture_040.jpg (http://s2.supload.com/free/Picture_040.jpg/view/)

[creidiki]

Ewww, thats gross :p:

[eXa]

what! have tou been doing something... sexual to that block?
:p:

guess its leftovers from the rad!

[creidiki]

probably, that stuff tends to congeal when you mix it with additives.

[Fresh Daemon]

Looks like limescale or something. Did you use tap water in your loop?

[Bail_w]

Omg you just cum on your CPU waterblock? lol j/k...

[Grinch]

never used anything but distilled..prolly from to much hydrx...not this time I put 2 teaspoons in a whole gallon of distilled...cleaning that storm made a big difference...I can actually see water moving through tubes...

[Grinch]

Omg you just cum on your CPU waterblock? lol j/k...


LOL :woot: :toast:

[Fresh Daemon]

Yeah, I've lost all patience with additives. They just produce gunk. When I finish tearing down and rebuilding my loop it's pure distilled all the way, baby.

[Reinvented]

Seriously grinch, i *literally* lost ALL of my dinner just now. But you know better not to use excessive amounts of Hydrx eh? ;)

[Grinch]

oh yes....and the bottle says to empty into 1 liter of distilled....never again...very small amount...

[Reinvented]

Wait, wait...let me get this right...you emptied the whole bottle into 1 litre?

[-aDaM^]

what! have tou been doing something... sexual to that block?
:p:

guess its leftovers from the rad!

lmao! omg.... lol :banana:

[creidiki]

oh yes....and the bottle says to empty into 1 liter of distilled....never again...very small amount...

L.

O.

L.

[ReD.SkY]

lmao... looking good.

these lianli V2000's are pretty hard to WC... but u did good... i cant wait till i install my BIP3 :|

[Grinch]

lmao... looking good.

these lianli V2000's are pretty hard to WC... but u did good... i cant wait till i install my BIP3 :|


thanks man..

[Grinch]

L.

O.

L.


http://www.pctoys.com/840556037316.html

[Grinch]

Wait, wait...let me get this right...you emptied the whole bottle into 1 litre?


http://www.pctoys.com/840556037316.html



I did that the 1st time I ever watercooled...not again

[ReD.SkY]

lol good thing u learned ;)

i know people who could make the same mke over and over again

(i dont like zerex because it stained the :banana::banana::banana::banana: outa my tubes... and it turned into some type of wild smoothie when i emptied the loop with the Iwaki on)

[Grinch]

Lol

[jinu117]

It's common with storm block. You really need to clean it every few months :)

[ReD.SkY]

idk why, but all of a sudden i feel the urge to go and buy a storm... lmao
'

[Grinch]

for more work and hassle...LOL:toast:

[ReD.SkY]

lol ive redone my loop 5 times since i set it up 2 monthgo... this monday will hopefully be the last time for a while

[josh6079]

So is just plain distilled water the best thing to run through your system? I thought those additives help with heat too? Also, what would you do then to make your water UV reactive? I'm new to water cooling and I don't know much, but I've read MaxxRacer's Guide (at least up until he starts talking about how to prep your system, since I haven't gotten all of the parts yet to prep).

Also, I've gotten the Alphacool Laing DDC-12V Ultra water pump with its resovoir that sits on top of it. Should I keep that resovoir since it could help with the flow of the system being right on top of the pump, or should I invest in a different resovoir?

[creidiki]

you get more in-loop flow without res and using that barb for inlet instead of the side one.

no, they dont really help with heat much... especially the ones with glycol in them. as for uv die, you just have to be careful to find one that wont fade, stain your tubing or gunk up your blocks... yeah, generally its easyer just to get uv tubing.

[timpanogos]

I'm interested to tear my TDX apart in the next few days. I used Zerex, been running it for a year now - tubes are way milky, but the water is the same color as day one (I have a large clear res) More important, my temps have not fluctuated a bit in the years time.

Anyway, this just caught my attention as I'm planning on moving to the storm, and now wondering if I want to add anything to the water

[Grinch]

I'm interested to tear my TDX apart in the next few days. I used Zerex, been running it for a year now - tubes are way milky, but the water is the same color as day one (I have a large clear res) More important, my temps have not fluctuated a bit in the years time.

Anyway, this just caught my attention as I'm planning on moving to the storm, and now wondering if I want to add anything to the water


if you add anything I would add 2 teaspoons of hyrdx

[Grinch]

some more pics...used some zip ties on tubing to bring tubing closer together...but not tight enough to pinch:

http://s2.supload.com/thumbs/default/Picture_037-20060521115505.jpg (http://s2.supload.com/free/Picture_037-20060521115505.jpg/view/)
http://s2.supload.com/thumbs/default/Picture_038-20060521115512.jpg (http://s2.supload.com/free/Picture_038-20060521115512.jpg/view/)
http://s2.supload.com/thumbs/default/Picture_039.jpg (http://s2.supload.com/free/Picture_039.jpg/view/)
http://s2.supload.com/thumbs/default/Picture_040.jpg (http://s2.supload.com/free/Picture_040.jpg/view/)

[BlueAqua]

Looks pretty good Grinch.

One time I read to use a little bit of Listerine, so I was thinking, sure sounds like a great idea to prevent growth.

Well it foamed up and gave my computer a nice minty fresh breath. I ended up flushing it out completely and just putting in distilled water.

[eXa]

its nice execpt for thos 2 fans in the window! it just doesnt look good! but i kinda undrestand the purpose!

[Grinch]

I know fans look out of place...prolly gonna order another windowed side panel and leave alone...but I know my chipset and pwmic will get hot again..:woot: :toast:

[eXa]

well there are other solution to that!

[Grinch]

yeah I know...prolly go back to blue crab memory cooler on pwmic

[Hystrix^]

You really have an awesome case :up:. I also finished my casemod with liquid cooling today. I'm putting up the pictures right now ;).

[Grinch]

great looking forward to seeing some pics

[josh6079]

you get more in-loop flow without res and using that barb for inlet instead of the side one.

no, they dont really help with heat much... especially the ones with glycol in them. as for uv die, you just have to be careful to find one that wont fade, stain your tubing or gunk up your blocks... yeah, generally its easyer just to get uv tubing.

Is uv tubing that durable though as compared to my tygon? Also, I though MaxxxRacer's guide had a section that explained how to keep your tubes from getting that "fog" look.

My main concern though is whether just distilled water alone will be okay for my system. I mean, I don't want the gunk that the OP had, but I'd also like UV reactiveness. Plus, I don't know if the distilled water alone will help keep my system life-free.

[creidiki]

One thing is the fog that comes from the solder flux creeping out the radiator.

Another thing is the staining and gunking that comes from water additives or mct-5.

Dont confuse the 2.

Im getting tired of repeating this over and over, but copper is one fo the most widely used biocides, so there'll be plenty of biocide in your loop. Ive been running pure water for a while with no life, and im far from the only person here who does that.

However, if you have a case window and your pc gets a lot of sunlight a few drops of iodine or algae-killer cant probably hurt for your peace of mind - and unlike anti-corrosion additives, they wont stain your tubing or gunk up your blocks.

Dont forget though, that youll have to keep putting a couple of drops of iodine every couple of months for it to keep protecting your system, and the same is true for any other additive - all these compounds including zerez/hydryx and whatnot degrade when subjected to sunlight.

[JoeBar]

@ creidiki. Can u pls tell me what's the time limit u're reffering? How long it takes to stain your tubing?

[creidiki]

that depends on the concentration of the additive and the additive. small amounts of zerex can go on for 6 months without any trouble, in a closed case and a clean loop, but the extreme 25% mixes you sometimes see people do will generaly turn your tubing pink inside a month.

again, sunlight is factor, as it causes changes in the compounds - and the tubing. tygon and other are "uv-resistant", yes, but their molecular structure will in any case slowly break down when exposed to sunlight for prolonged periods, sort of like how suncream only lasts for so long once you put it on.

keep in mind also that the tubing is food-grade (or medical grade in some cases) but its not really designed for some of the kind of nasty chemicals that are in some additives - theyll do h2o and alcohol fine, but once you start putting in stuff thats desinged for car engines, they start to suffer a little bit.

unfortunately when you look at it from this level the wc world is once of compromises, you have to do the best you can with whats available - use the minimum amounts of additives that are needed for the task.

combination of solder flux and additive staining is possibly the worse, you should have seen the pink-white gunk that was in my 1st loop build =p

[JoeBar]

Thanks for the aswer m8. Although i have a windowed case, it never gets in direct sunlight and generally i'm a bit of a vampire so my room is low lighted all the time. Also i don't really care and propably never going to use all these car additives.
My main concern are uv dyes. I really like their effect and i want to know how long it'll take to stain my tubing.
From my past experience i have to say that the el cheapo tubes on my previous "wc" (aka bigwater) were clean after 2 months with the supplied uv dye.

[robotboy]

The documentation that comes with the storm says not to use UV additives or dyes. I read somewhere on here where Cathar or Maxx was saying that the turbulence in the block causes precipitation of the fillers in these additives. Hydrx is UV reactive, so it probably has the fillers already added. Maybe that is what is gunking up the inside of the block.

Why would someone add a 25% zerex solution to their loop? I was under the impression that zerex, and other additives, had worse cooling properties than H2O... They are useful for their anticorrosive properties, etc.

[timpanogos]

Here's the hype (right off a Zerex bottle)

"Improves Heat Transfer"
"Reduces Operating Tempatures"
"Protects All Cooling system Metals From Corrosion"

DangerDen promotes it as "Better than water wetter"

But hey, you guys have convienced me (I'm in a dark room also) - no additives in my revamp.

Chad

[creidiki]

From my past experience i have to say that the el cheapo tubes on my previous "wc" (aka bigwater) were clean after 2 months with the supplied uv dye.
I think that depends entirely on the UV die.

[Redelephant]

looks good-ready for my Cool-it!

[Grinch]

Lol

[-aDaM^]

Looks sweet Grinch :toast:

[Grinch]

Looks sweet Grinch :toast:


thx man..:toast:

[josh6079]

One thing is the fog that comes from the solder flux creeping out the radiator.

Another thing is the staining and gunking that comes from water additives or mct-5.

Dont confuse the 2.

Im getting tired of repeating this over and over, but copper is one fo the most widely used biocides, so there'll be plenty of biocide in your loop. Ive been running pure water for a while with no life, and im far from the only person here who does that.

However, if you have a case window and your pc gets a lot of sunlight a few drops of iodine or algae-killer cant probably hurt for your peace of mind - and unlike anti-corrosion additives, they wont stain your tubing or gunk up your blocks.

Dont forget though, that youll have to keep putting a couple of drops of iodine every couple of months for it to keep protecting your system, and the same is true for any other additive - all these compounds including zerez/hydryx and whatnot degrade when subjected to sunlight.

Cool, thanks for the info. I think I'll just steer clear of UV dyes and additives. I would like the look but rather have the performance without as much maintainence.

I'm still wondering if having the resovoir directly attached to the top of my pump like I've got will be good. I mean, would I get better flowrates? Or should I just invest in a good Double 5.25" bay resovoir and keep it above my pump? I don't think I'd want to do a T-Line. The main thing I care about right now is performance.

[creidiki]

The main thing I care about right now is performance.
...in which case you want a t-line :D

[Bail_w]

NIce Setup ;0

[josh6079]

...in which case you want a t-line :D
Really? Does a T-Line do that much better than a resovoir?

[creidiki]

depends on the reservoir. not much diff from a good reservoir, lots from a bad... and good/bad is mostly determined by the res' internal flow, and that can change quite a bit depending on pump speed.

someone here was using that round DD res, getting a nice vortex. you dont wanna know how much goodness a vortex does to your flow...

[Bladesinger7x]

Creidiki, could you please explain a bit what reservoir design(s) are the best.
I was planning to make my own reservoir from an old printer color reservoir
(on picture) but now I'm wondering if I should rather go for a T-line.

http://www2.shrani.si/thumbs/03042006555382.jpg (http://www2.shrani.si/files/03042006555382.jpg)

[Budwise]

i got the same gunk in mine using MCT5.

[timpanogos]

Bladesinger,

Your res looks fairly large and hence you are not as likely to have the votex problem.

I also started with a large res. Been plenty happy with it, but becoming convienced that its benefits, past filling/bleeding adds nothing to the cooling capacity of my system.

I'm going to revamp this time to a t-line fill tube.

The bottom fitting is suction to the pump, return is to the top. If you use your res, you might do the same thing (return high in your container, pull from bottom).

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y192/Timpanogos/coolerInside.png

[jrw]

Pump upside down is not wise. Is it?

[greatscott68]

Lookin' good, Grinch!

[josh6079]

depends on the reservoir. not much diff from a good reservoir, lots from a bad... and good/bad is mostly determined by the res' internal flow, and that can change quite a bit depending on pump speed.

someone here was using that round DD res, getting a nice vortex. you dont wanna know how much goodness a vortex does to your flow...

This is my pump/resovoir http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=201&products_id=4511

Vortex?...Yes?...No?

[mad mikee]

Grinch - Nice look there. :up:

Gunk from hydrox is GREEN - will never use it again since it clogged the jets
(Got 10 bottles FS, CHEAP :D)

As for difficulty, not that bad. I'll take a pic of mine when I get it back up & running (added chipset block - hate that danm fan :mad: )


http://www.pctoys.com/840556037316.html



I did that the 1st time I ever watercooled...not again

[creidiki]

@jrw, magnetic drive pump with impeller suction pointing down = terrible idea, wrecks your pump, unless you have another twin pump pushing the water into it.

@bladesinger, unless you make a vertical reservoir with the barbs that are parallel to each other along a vertical axis, you have to put baffles inside the res to stop currents from going out of control. the problem being of course that baffles add restriction compared to a baffle-less vortex-less res ;)

@josh seems like no vortex but it doesent work very well, the hole is too small for bubbles to collect properly.

[smut]

nice setup

[JoeBar]

This is my pump/resovoir http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=201&products_id=4511

Vortex?...Yes?...No?
Skip the top res model.

[Grinch]

Lookin' good, Grinch!


thx man...:woot:

[Grinch]

Grinch - Nice look there. :up:

Gunk from hydrox is GREEN - will never use it again since it clogged the jets
(Got 10 bottles FS, CHEAP :D)

As for difficulty, not that bad. I'll take a pic of mine when I get it back up & running (added chipset block - hate that danm fan :mad: )


thx man...hydrx is ok I guess used in small amounts...just wonder why they would say to empty bottle into 1 litre of water?

[JoeBar]

I just realised that i still haven't congratulate u on your setup m8... :slapass:
Very nice! :)

[Grinch]

I just realised that i still haven't congratulate u on your setup m8... :slapass:
Very nice! :)


thx m8...:woot: :toast:

[josh6079]

@jrw, magnetic drive pump with impeller suction pointing down = terrible idea, wrecks your pump, unless you have another twin pump pushing the water into it.

@bladesinger, unless you make a vertical reservoir with the barbs that are parallel to each other along a vertical axis, you have to put baffles inside the res to stop currents from going out of control. the problem being of course that baffles add restriction compared to a baffle-less vortex-less res ;)

@josh seems like no vortex but it doesent work very well, the hole is too small for bubbles to collect properly.
Do you mean the bubbles won't collect properly for bleeding?

If I shouldn't use this, what res should I get? I was also thinking this one

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16835106066

Any other recommendations would be greatly appreciated.

[creidiki]

Yes, thats what I mean.

Or at least, thats the problem a couple of people here have been having with that res - YMMV.

Stay away from that thermaltake.

Only bay reses i could recommend atm apart from nikhsub's is the cape bullseye delrin version and the DD double-bay bayres. I dont know if there's a double-height version of the repack reses.

[josh6079]

Yes, thats what I mean.

Or at least, thats the problem a couple of people here have been having with that res - YMMV.

Stay away from that thermaltake.

Only bay reses i could recommend atm apart from nikhsub's is the cape bullseye delrin version and the DD double-bay bayres. I dont know if there's a double-height version of the repack reses.

This one?

http://www.voyeurmods.com/index.php?action=item&id=2374&prevaction=category&previd=featured&prevstart=

That looks pretty sweet. But it says it comes with 1/4" fittings, don't I want a lot bigger ones like 5/8" or something?

[creidiki]

Dont confuse thread size with tube ID. Good 1/4 thread 1/2 tube barbs have 10-11mm ID, which is pretty close to 12.5mm(1/2) and basically identical to 7/16(~11m) which is why 7/16 provides better flow on G1/4 and 1/4NPT thread barbs.

And no, thats the aluminium version. This is the delrin version:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=318&products_id=4493

[Bladesinger7x]

@bladesinger, unless you make a vertical reservoir with the barbs that are parallel to each other along a vertical axis, you have to put baffles inside the res to stop currents from going out of control. the problem being of course that baffles add restriction compared to a baffle-less vortex-less res ;)


Uhhh, sorry for the bad picture... it was the only picture of the reservoire.
The inlet is positioned higher than the outlet at the bottom (modified picture but is kinda hard to tell) so this would do then, right?

Yesterday I cat the holes for the fittings - inlet OD G1/4fitting/ outlet OD G3/8 fitting...today my mother-in-law took the res to work so they could
test it under pressure and seal the fittings to the res with glue or some stuff
they use

http://www2.shrani.si/thumbs/03042006559086.jpg (http://www2.shrani.si/files/03042006559086.jpg)

[creidiki]

You wont know for sure until you test it - R&D is the most expensive part of making anything :)

[josh6079]

Dont confuse thread size with tube ID. Good 1/4 thread 1/2 tube barbs have 10-11mm ID, which is pretty close to 12.5mm(1/2) and basically identical to 7/16(~11m) which is why 7/16 provides better flow on G1/4 and 1/4NPT thread barbs.

And no, thats the aluminium version. This is the delrin version:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=318&products_id=4493

Ah, I see. Why is the Aluminium version more expensive?

Another thing, and I bet this is really stupid, but what if instead of distilled water with iodine additions every few months, you were to use triple distilled vodka? Eh, eh, c'mon! It's distilled alcohol! It's clean, and no germs could live in there, right?

Aside from my potential worst water cooling idea ever, do you think that the following setup would yeild some decent results?

Swiftech Apogee CPU Water Block
Swiftech MCW60 VGA Water Block
Alphacool Laing DDC-12V Ultra Pump
Tygon R-3603 1/2" ID Tubing
(Getting 2x Black Ice GT Stealth 120's)
(Probably getting the delrin Resevoir)

All of this is going to be fitting in my Silverstone TJ-06, and I might even add a dual 120 Black Ice GT on the bottom of the case, but I'm not sure as of yet. My hardware to be cooled is an Opty 148 Venus, and an X1900XTX. I've got the Thermalright HR-05 installed and keeping my chipset at an average 38C. I've only got one 100GB Hard Drive, one DVD+/-RW LiteOn Drive, and a OCZ Powerstream 520W, so heat from Drives isn't a very big issue. The PSU is at the top of the case with only one fan taking the air out of it and expelling it through its exhaust (the outside of the case). I wish I had a digital camera, would save typing and stuff.

I just hope that with the water cooling components I've gotten that I'll be able to overclock my X1900XTX really well. I'm going to go for 750 on the core, but we'll see.

[creidiki]

1. its fermented potatoes, what exactly do you think makes stuff ferment, faries? ;)

2. as to the price, maybe anodized alu is more expensive than delrin? no idea, and tbh i couldnt care less :D

3. looks good to me apart fom the apogee - if youre going for an apogee then youre NOT after performance, in which case get the Pro, its cheaper and quieter.

if youre going to get a pump with such incredibly high head pressure like the Ultra, get a block that can actually benefit from it, ie. MP-05 LE or Storm.

4. 1 double rad will whoop the :banana::banana::banana::banana: out of 2 single rads. you might not even see any temp difference between 1 and 2 single rads, thats how much the extra resistance affects loops.

[josh6079]

Why is the Apogee not as good as a performance item as the Storm. I thought that the Apogee was very close to it, if not better sometimes.

[Grinch]

You really have an awesome case :up:. I also finished my casemod with liquid cooling today. I'm putting up the pictures right now ;).



you ever get pics?

[creidiki]

Why is the Apogee not as good as a performance item as the Storm. I thought that the Apogee was very close to it, if not better sometimes.
You thought wrong.

[josh6079]

You thought wrong.

Here they talk about the Apogee performing pretty close. They don't directly test the two, but say some things about them. Granted, they say that the Storm may outperform the Apogee on smaller die sizes, which my CPU is. I'm not saying it's better, but for around $50 and a block that comes close to the Storm, that's pretty reasonable and a good bang for your buck.

http://reviews.pcapex.com/cooling/swiftech_apogee_cpu_waterblock.php

Thanks for all of your help guys. I'll put this thing together as soon as I can and try to get pics for you all to see.

[creidiki]

Gee, measuremnts taken with temp probe epoxied under the core, thats a reliable way to get temperatures...

[JoeBar]

Only bay reses i could recommend atm apart from nikhsub's is the cape bullseye delrin version and the DD double-bay bayres. I dont know if there's a double-height version of the repack reses.

Why DD's double 5.25 bay and not single?

[eXa]

why is that bad? and what is the way to do it?

[creidiki]

@Joe, single bay often has "waves" inside and make the pump breathe air with strong pumps. it depends a lot on the loop, but double-height ones never have this problem.

@eXa, because its about as accurate as measuring temps by sticking a probe onto the side of the die... which is not very precise or reliable. you either mod the cpu socket to access the inbuilt probe with an extrenal reader - and then calibrate it - or you mod the IHS and insert a probe like max did - and again, calibrate it. and even those 2 methods arent really that accurate, because the inbuilt probe is on the side of the die as well, and the modded IHS will be off because of the thermal gradient of TIM1 and IHS, as well as creating a slight thermal shadow right above the die.

[JoeBar]

But u can still fill a single bay till full and get rid of this effect... ;)
Or is there any other reason? I wanna know cause i'm using a DD single one and was thinking of getting the double when i bought the parts of my setup.

[creidiki]

Like I said, it depends on the loop. Ive seen people use one with a D5 with no problem, and ive also seen people give up on it with a DDC because the pump kept breathing air.

If the single works for you, then keep it, but as there have been more than occasional problems with them i suggest the double-height unless there are size constraints.

I mean, if you have to keep it constantly filled up to the neck that kind of defeats the point of the res, no?

[JoeBar]

I had the same prob with my DDC at first when i had it filled but no till the absolute top. The pump was getting air when first powered up and it would take about 5 mins to get the air back out. But since i filled it till top t doesn't happen anymore.
At first i was in favour of the double but if i would i should either get rid of my only optical drive (for an external) or one of my two front 120mm fans. So i've decided to go with the single for now.

[eXa]

@Joe, single bay often has "waves" inside and make the pump breathe air with strong pumps. it depends a lot on the loop, but double-height ones never have this problem.

@eXa, because its about as accurate as measuring temps by sticking a probe onto the side of the die... which is not very precise or reliable. you either mod the cpu socket to access the inbuilt probe with an extrenal reader - and then calibrate it - or you mod the IHS and insert a probe like max did - and again, calibrate it. and even those 2 methods arent really that accurate, because the inbuilt probe is on the side of the die as well, and the modded IHS will be off because of the thermal gradient of TIM1 and IHS, as well as creating a slight thermal shadow right above the die.

yeah but even if the temp isnt exactly right the delta would be! ?
and that is what is interresting when testing different blocks!

[creidiki]

no, you cant trust a sensor on the other side of the cpu to report the same deltas that are happening on the actual die.

[eXa]

so it isnt even good enough too check the difference beteween 2 blocks?

[creidiki]

Nope, just like you cant trust onboard sensors for that, especially if you dont give water in-out and air in-out temps...

I mean look at that review. Really look at it. XP-97 + M1A: 36.7c load on 25.8 ambient. Its fairyland figures.

[eXa]

ok im convinced!

[Grinch]

got myself a new sheet of lucite today and I have redone my sidepanel again...here it is and my temps are great....:toast: :woot:


http://s2.supload.com/thumbs/default/Picture_048-20060531150916.jpg (http://s2.supload.com/free/Picture_048-20060531150916.jpg/view/)
http://s2.supload.com/thumbs/default/Picture_049-20060531150922.jpg (http://s2.supload.com/free/Picture_049-20060531150922.jpg/view/)

[creidiki]

Neat :)

[Grinch]

thanks man! :toast:

[eXa]

looks good! ...dammit, where is the thumbs up smiley?

[Grinch]

looks good! ...dammit, where is the thumbs up smiley?

hahaha thx man...:thumbsup:

[eXa]

:up: :up: :up:

yay! i was looking for a yellow one. thats why i didnt find it!

[JoeBar]

Very nice! :up:

[nealh]

Very nice work..what did you use to cut the 120 mm holes on the bottom

You live in lakeland(I live in Valrico)..what are your ambients and temps on the setup...

I cant tell for sure but are the fans sucking into the case from the floor....
if not and blowing air out...this is warm case air are the temps not higher?

Do you run the MCP655 set at 5

[Grinch]

Very nice work..what did you use to cut the 120 mm holes on the bottom

You live in lakeland(I live in Valrico)..what are your ambients and temps on the setup...

I cant tell for sure but are the fans sucking into the case from the floor....
if not and blowing air out...this is warm case air are the temps not higher?

Do you run the MCP655 set at 5


I used a 4.5" hole saw bit that I bought from lowes....that's cool valrico is like 20 mins from my house...ambient is 74F and my gpu is at idle 102F load 110F or 40C idle and 43C load and cpu is 78F idle and 86F load or 25C and 30C....I have the fans sucking air in...and I run my pump at setting #5

[dnottis]

I used a 4.5" hole saw bit that I bought from lowes....that's cool valrico is like 20 mins from my house...ambient is 74F and my gpu is at idle 102F load 110F or 40C idle and 43C load and cpu is 78F idle and 86F load or 25C and 30C....I have the fans sucking air in...and I run my pump at setting #5


Nice - copied my memory crab mod :)

As far as the Apogee / Storm argument on a capped CPU I really dont think there is enough difference to really matter. Uncapped I'd imagine it's still such a small difference but I don't think there is any way to accurately measue tenths of a degree difference. I went from a MCW 6000 to an Apogee with a new pump and rad and I gained.... 0 deg change. i just dont think the blocks today perform that much differently to make a difference.

[nealh]

I used a 4.5" hole saw bit that I bought from lowes....that's cool valrico is like 20 mins from my house...ambient is 74F and my gpu is at idle 102F load 110F or 40C idle and 43C load and cpu is 78F idle and 86F load or 25C and 30C....I have the fans sucking air in...and I run my pump at setting #5

Damn...my ambients are 24-26C+(76-78, generally)

but I idle at 32/33 and load 42/43c...damn I like your temps better and with more vcore on a hot cpu ..I really need a better case and radiator

[Grinch]

Nice - copied my memory crab mod :)

As far as the Apogee / Storm argument on a capped CPU I really dont think there is enough difference to really matter. Uncapped I'd imagine it's still such a small difference but I don't think there is any way to accurately measue tenths of a degree difference. I went from a MCW 6000 to an Apogee with a new pump and rad and I gained.... 0 deg change. i just dont think the blocks today perform that much differently to make a difference.


crab mod is the BOMB! :woot: :toast: :clap: :banana:

[Grinch]

Damn...my ambients are 24-26C+(76-78, generally)

but I idle at 32/33 and load 42/43c...damn I like your temps better and with more vcore on a hot cpu ..I really need a better case and radiator

radiator helps alot..also use a thermal probe to check temps....bios says 35C...probe says 25C...also I don't have a lid on my cpu...that helped alot! :woot:

[nealh]

I trying to get up the courage to de-lid the cpu....

if I had to do it over again...I would have considered a dua lrad setup but wanted an internal setup that was "easy" to mod in my stupid P180...alas the PA160

[smopoim86]

Here's the hype (right off a Zerex bottle)

"Improves Heat Transfer"
"Reduces Operating Tempatures"
"Protects All Cooling system Metals From Corrosion"

DangerDen promotes it as "Better than water wetter"

But hey, you guys have convienced me (I'm in a dark room also) - no additives in my revamp.

Chad

That should be comparing it to normal antifreeze. Remember it is designed for car use and the advetisement applies to "normal" use

[Grinch]

indeed...