Cheap loadtester materials

[jinu117]

*** Updated... post 32 has instruction & picturres ***


Since lot of people have no way of load testing and safe way of doing it here is guide to components involved in making loadtester that is rather cheap. I found some components which are readily available online in US as well as easy to work with for it. I will update this with some pics as I get some time and full guide on how to make it with picture.

1) You need heating element. Lot of people go for power resistor. It is all good but what happens when you get condensation on it. Also, how well can you mount multiple of them correctly? Answer is.... not really as I've seen way too varying load figures from people.
Here is what I recommend. Cartridge heater.
McMaster.com carries one. Hightemp 1/4 diameter, 1-1/2" length is good choice. 3618K182 from mcmaster.com. It is about $20. You can get high temp sleeving on it, etc. (I suggest grabbing 200w one with stainless steel cable)
2) Copper block. About 2x2x1/2" is good choice. What you do is basiaclly drill this with same diamter as your cartridge diameter drill small hole for thermcouple in between surface and this hole for getting good idea on contact when you test. (no load same temp 150w load up to about 11c is good contact) DangerDen sells them for $5 a piece if you can't find one locally.
http://www.dangerdenstore.com/home.php?cat=49
3) AC cable to connect to cartridge. I am pretty sure most of you have them laying around.
4) Load varying station (Variac). I used to use variac from all electronics that was about $50. While it is very good, I found cheaper source for doing same thing. Basically rotary speed controller for your ac sources. You can use it just fine and it does work just same as variac. **UPDATE** stuff I got from harborfreight.com works just fine. http://da.harborfreight.com/cpisearch/web/search.do?keyword=43060&Submit=Go On sale around $10.
5) Way to know exact wattage used. I use kill-a-watt reader. Many places will have it from $20-35. E-bay is not a bad choice on this one if you can find reasonable shipping fee one which is always available from what i can see.
Total spent is less than $100 for very accurate load testing setup. I will write more about how to make one for those who just didn't get it later.

[runmc]

Thank you jinu :) for the nice guide.
I have ordered my heating element. I already have the copper and speed controller. All I need is the "kill O what" reader:eek:
Can you explain more about this tool? Where do you find one? HD?

[wdrzal]

volts X amps =watts

a volt meter with a amp clamp =watt meter

[runmc]

volts X amps =watts

a volt meter with a amp clamp = watt meter

Do you mean like - 120v X 2amps = 240watts ??

Where do you clamp the "amp clamp"?

[n00b 0f l337]

Runmc, will you be able to maybe assemble and few and offer them from under-the-ice for people?

[kayl]

Do you mean like - 120v X 2amps = 240watts ??

Where do you clamp the "amp clamp"?


can get fluke clamp or something
The clamp goes around the active wire and measure the magnetic field around the wire and turns that into a current reading.

I just modded an entension lead and plug it into a volt meter to measure current



nice guide there jinu117, now we just need some pics:toast:

[wdrzal]

Do you mean like - 120v X 2amps = 240watts ??

Where do you clamp the "amp clamp"?

yep, just remember if using a clamp you only go around 1 wire or they flow will cancel each other out.

some meters without amp clamps you can direct read amps by running the load thru the meter.

[epion2985]

Very nice, thanks jin. You helped me save some money as some of the components I was about to get were more. Thanks

I do not see the need for a kill-a-watt reader. I mean kmon guys, amps * volts = watts, you all should know that much.

[n00b 0f l337]

The point is, you dont know what amperage its sucking without it.
So your left with 110a=w. And that doesnt help much.

[epion2985]

most volt meters can give amp measurements.

I think the Variac jin uses tells you the amps its pushing at at $50 its a steal.
http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/item/SC-3M/805/3_AMP_VARIABLE_TRANSFORMER_.html

[wdrzal]

a modern 3 to 5 dollar dimmer will also work.just check its amp rating 2 0r 3 amps at 110 to 120 volt will get you over 200 watts, they are variac's. just don't use a old time one ( resistive dimmer)as they give off the difference from input to out put in heat.

[wdrzal]

I bet you could even design a heat load by using a 150 watt light bulb. put it in a liquig filled tube and monitor the temperature. if the temp stay steady you are cooling 150 watts, if it drops your are cooling more ,if it rises less. knowing the volume of water and temperature rise x time you can calculate excact wattage. probably make something for under 10.00

[ZeroTolerance]

I bet you could even design a heat load by using a 150 watt light bulb. if the temp stay steady you are cooling 150 watts, if it drops your are cooling more ,if it rises less.

the main porpuse of a lamp = light production. The heating is just an inefficient side-effect. If the lamp eats 150W it doesn't produce 150W of heat.

[Thrilla]

I just used a 150watt firerod heating element, plug it in the AC 120v, it sucks up 150w and gets real hot in just a few seconds. Too bad I ran it without cooling... it got burnt..

[wdrzal]

yes it does produce 150 watts of heat, the light is just a bonus.

by the way a resistive heating element is very near 100% effecient

[jinu117]

I bet you could even design a heat load by using a 150 watt light bulb. put it in a liquig filled tube and monitor the temperature. if the temp stay steady you are cooling 150 watts, if it drops your are cooling more ,if it rises less. knowing the volume of water and temperature rise x time you can calculate excact wattage. probably make something for under 10.00

This is so unlike you considering safety hazard it will pose. I do understand it is just getting point through post but still... some people might read it literally :)
expect some pics in few days as I am quite swamped at moment from my primary work, family obligation, and phase change as well :P Been on 4 hour sleep run for last 2 weeks.

[Carlz0r]

I bet you could even design a heat load by using a 150 watt light bulb. put it in a liquig filled tube and monitor the temperature. if the temp stay steady you are cooling 150 watts, if it drops your are cooling more ,if it rises less. knowing the volume of water and temperature rise x time you can calculate excact wattage. probably make something for under 10.00
Lightbulb + cold liquid = BAD combo. 120v + Liquid = BAD combo. I agree with jinu, this is very unlike you. :nono:

[Blaster]

Spent less than 10€ on this..

lap both copper block and resistor, opened threaded holes on copper to really press resistor against copper with screws, very thin layer of thermal paste between them

it puts out same power as my opteron 170 at 3200Mhz, 1,7 vcore running both cores at 100%

http://helderfonseca.planetaclix.pt/loadtester1.jpg

[wdrzal]

A safe one could be made,or I wouldn't have mentioned it. why would the liquid have to be cold?

[Carlz0r]

A safe one could be made,or I wouldn't have mentioned it. why would the liquid have to be cold?
It would be used for loadtesting. Therefore, it would be cold.

[epion2985]

It would be used for loadtesting. Therefore, it would be cold.

No it wouldnt.

All you would do is measure the delta T, it doesnt matter in what range.

[Thrilla]

Just insulate the sucker with foam and stuff, but from what I was taught, all wall outlet project needs to be properly enclosed, and for these kinda stuff, load it with a GFI socket, might save your life someday.

[wdrzal]

That was just a off the wall thought ,but if we could design a heat load out of very cheap and common parts every could make one.

If a bulb is in a fluid when turned on it won't burst, it will work like a heating element.
come to think of it there is a company in pittsburg,Chromalox, who make all kinds of resistance heaters. I could check on what they have.

[epion2985]

I could check on what they have.

thanks. awaiting anxiously.

[wdrzal]

Here is their web site:

http://www.chromaloxheaters.com/

http://www.chromalox.com/

http://www.chromalox.com/technical/ohmscalculator/

[Thrilla]

I used one of these, 120vAC 150w heat firerod
http://www.watlow.com/products/heaters/ht_cart.cfm

I also saw they carry strip heaters, that may be easier to mount
http://www.watlow.com/products/heaters/ht_strip.cfm

[Carlz0r]

No it wouldnt.

All you would do is measure the delta T, it doesnt matter in what range.
So you're telling me that it would work in some strange way contrary to all the resistor load testers I've seen? Because they're all frosted over, and I've never seen frost at high temperatures. :stick:

[Thrilla]

They will get frosted if you use phase or LN2 or DICE, unless you insulate the heatsource well.

[jinu117]

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=43060

Perfect little thing... Couldn't find the link for longest time :)

[sson74]

Hello all, Hey Jin i'll try posting more, anyway thought I throw this in http://stores.ebay.com/Tibetwalk-Electronics This guy sales all sorts of panel meters, maybe you could use a Ammeter he sells for your load tester. I picked up some Blue Led volt meters and a PID controller for the cascade.

[SexyMF]

If you are going to hook up anything to main please add a fuse to the line.

Also, those of you who have a ghetto resistor/mains loadtester and a clamp meter please measure the current draw at ambient and then lowest temp. Post the result.

[jinu117]

Okay, here finally is guide I am going to write up.

Parts you need to acquire:

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=47782&stc=1&d=1149154111

1 x Heating element. Cartridge heater. I am using 3/8" 250w high temperature one in this picture with stainless steel sleeving. McMaster.com part number 3618K236. About $20.
1 x Copper block. Using 2"x2"x3/4" on this one. I got mine from Dangerden.com as I only very recently found local wholesaler for metals that is reasonable... -_-. Somewhere from $10 to few bucks if that :)
1 x Thermal probe. In the picture I use K-type probe. You can use something else as you would like.
1 x Voltage variac, etc - Something to change power output. I recently found great deal on rotary speed controller which works just like variac in our situation. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=43060 about $10+shipping if you don't have local harborfreight store.
1 x Way to measure amperage and voltage. You could calculate of power draw by voltage * amperage. However, Kill-a-watt or equivalent tools make reading wattage and changing it respectably much easier as well as having some other cool uses such as figuring out total power draw of your system, etc more easily. (like avg power consumption). Search e-bay or froogle for Kill-a-watt. In the picture shown is seasonic powerangel which is same thing.
About $30-40 shipped.

Tools used: Drill press :) You can get fancy on how to mount evaporator to load block, etc. I just used really simple method on mine... you will see it later. So only required tool is drill press really. Or steady hand, lot of elbow grease and hand drill... Never tried it myself and probably won't.
Lapping glass. (any flat surfaces really).
Sand papers for lapping.

Misc: Socket mounting back from motherboard. 2 x 3 inch 6/32" machine screw, 4 washers for the screw and 2 nuts (or wing nuts)

Now to construction.

[jinu117]

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=47783&stc=1&d=1149154744

Mount it securely. If you already don't have vise for drill press... go get one. Better safe than sorry. Use all manufacturer's precaution when using tools.


http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=47784&stc=1&d=1149154744

Since I do have 3/8 cartridge, I am drilling 3/8 hole in the copper block. Enough depth so that heating element can get all the way in...
Use some cutting oil, etc as you will burn through your drill bit quite fast in copper otherwise and those larger bits are not too cheap.
Also if copper gets too hot, as well as drill bit... just let it cool down a little and resume. Take it slow.

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=47785&stc=1&d=1149154744

Now that you are done with 3/8 hole, let's work on hole that will get your thermal reading probe in... Since I am using k-type probe with very small tip, I am going to drill small hole. Right in between the 3/8" hole and surface. So that it reads more consistant value in between. For this one I used 5/64 for about inch deep. Don't go too deep in or you will surely break your drill bit.

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=47786&stc=1&d=1149154744

It should look like above once all cuts are done. Clean it off, clean off any cutting oils.

[jinu117]

Now it is time to prepare surface of load tester.
The side where it is closer to your probe is going to be the evap contact surface which need to be lapped.
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=47788&stc=1&d=1149155252

This is grits I go through... sometimes I do use 2000 grit... but since load tester will constantly see deformation over time with many mounts... I skip 2000 grit on this one.

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=47789&stc=1&d=1149155252

Circular motion is key on this. I've tried varios methods and always comes back to circular motion on lapping for better results. (other than some air HS which will cut through sandpaper instead of getting lapped). I lap mine on flat wood panel attached with glass pane :P lap it on flat surface please. (glass being the best).

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=47790&stc=1&d=1149155194

Just for the luster, I buffed the thing. Now when buffing if you plan to, be careful to keep all area has been covered evenly. You might start undoing the fine lapping job you did if you go too far... Mirror shine eh? :)

[jinu117]

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=47791&d=1149155656

Now you fill some portion of thermal paste into 3/8 hole and the 5/64 hole so heat transfer will be good.

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=47792&stc=1&d=1149155656

You might have hard time filling 5/64 hole... no problem... just put them on the probe. (I do this before I attach mine to evap, etc anyway... )

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=47793&stc=1&d=1149155656

Now insert the cartridge heater and k-type in...
Cartridge heater might take some effort to put in as it might trap air inside and won't come out... just keep on trying... (also edge of cartridge heater is concaved so putting some thermal paste there beforehand can help)

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=47795&stc=1&d=1149155656

Time to insulate it :) I used high temperature fibre based tape in here. Armaflex, styrofoam box, etc will do just fine for this really. Insulate all side excet where the evap will touch.

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=47796&stc=1&d=1149155988

[jinu117]

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=47798&stc=1&d=1149156178

Now let's connect cartridge heater to ac line.

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=47799&stc=1&d=1149156178

This is how I mount it. DFI bracket here (any cpu bracket can do), in this case i use 2 3inch 6/32" machine screw in there.

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=47800&stc=1&d=1149156178

Well, just sandwich our load tester between bracket and evap and mount it as you would on motherboard. I don't use wing nut for myself... Deep socket wrench with 5/16" does great for saving my hand and getting me good balanced mounting often times. Wingnut is convenient without tools but if you have proper tools, it makes even these little things easier :)

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=47801&stc=1&d=1149156178

Now, let's wire them up. Kill-a-watt goes to ac line. Variac or load variance tool goes to kill-a-watt. Load block connects to this load variance device.
Now you are ready to power up your phase, waterblock, air heatsink, etc and see how it handles load :)

Few things of notes...

1) It is recommended that you install thermal shut off switch. Something that won't burn through enclosure material if you forget to shut off the load tester after you are done testing..... (I've burnt 5 enclosures so far :P)

2) Bottom of load tester insulation... I prefer something stiff so that mounting is more consistant each time. Hard refrigeration foam, the tape I used, etc works great. I suggest armaflex tape type if these are not an option instead of foam... foam tends to be too squishy.

3) Always turn load tester off when you are done.

[epion2985]

sweet jesus!! you motivated me to start on mine :)

[runmc]

Very nice jinu - thank you:clap:
I will give it a try.:)

Do you have to worry about the heat melting the DFI backing plate?

[jinu117]

Very nice jinu - thank you:clap:
I will give it a try.:)

Do you have to worry about the heat melting the DFI backing plate?

Acutally, unless you forgot to turn off loadtester at the end of test, it should start feeling cold at back. With cascade, the backside start getting water drips... :) You see, the evap should be cooling well enough to cool down entire copper since there is no other way of heat escaping other than through evap (thoeritcally) from load tester with all the insulation. Some resistor load tester people showed with no frost to me looks like just bad contact with no correct load on evap.
And thanks to nature of cartridge heater, variance with temperature and resistance is very minmal which you could run for hours.
Another tip... never let it run unattended. Your unit might not hold load and collapse and temp will just keep going up.

[Jack]

Nice guide and good pics :toast:

But one question, the variac is probably using some power itself so we you connect it the way you did, the Kill-a-Watt reader will give you the powerconsumption of the cartridge+variac.

[twisted5]

Nice work there Jin. You really do take pride in your work and it shows!

[Alex08]

this thread should be stickied or linked in the guide section.

great work like always.

OT: kind of weird seeing you wearing jeans especially in 90f+ these past couple of days :rolleyes:

[Weee]

this thread should be stickied or linked in the guide section.

great work like always.

OT: kind of weird seeing you wearing jeans especially in 90f+ these past couple of days :rolleyes:

It wasn't terribly hot that day, plus half the photos were taken after 7PM. The longest part of this thing was watching Jin try and drill that hole deep enough to the the cartridge all the way in without punching through.

Okay now everyone start using these!

As far as the comment about the variac using power, transformers shouldn't be terribly lossy, but the key here I think is to have a consistent basis for comparison of temperature, and the power draw numbers can be correlated with real CPU conditions to really get a handle on how phase units being built are handling the load.

[yngndrw]

Can we have an earth wire going to that copper please. :stick: :stick:

[wdrzal]

Nice work Jinu :toast: Looking forward to feedback on testing! :clap:

[froudeg]

Nice work Jinu - best designed load tester i've seen so far on XS....some of the one's i've seen are shocking lol.

[martinjon666]

Awesome work, i think i need one :D

Its almost impossible to find any copper blocks here in idaho though. Still looking for a decent source for copper.

[ilkkahy]

Nice work but the contact surface area of that tester with evaporator is about 25cm^2 at maximum (if evaporator is that large) where normal cpu die is only 1-2cm^2 large. Reducing heatload tester contact area with evaporator bottom is more cruel for the evaporator temps but it think it responds the reality better. I have used a self-made 160w heatload tester in testing co2 containers and its contact surface area was around 2cm^2. Anyway it works very nice indeed.

[Crazystang01]

Hello I got a question about the Cartridge heater. Now Jinu you suggest the 200w. Where as DetroitAc is using a 300w Cartridge heater. Since with 115v=192w wouldnt a 250w Cartridge heater be good. Think it be the sweet spot between the 2. Also I see that the same one you listed from McMaster can go to 250w with same sleeving.

Doh was rereading all of this. Saw that you posted up 200w at start then later 250w. So lol guess just by reading I got the info I was looking for.:D

[LittleDevil]

jinu thanks for that guide and runmc thanks for cartridge heater , here is mine ;)

http://ld-phasechange.com/images/load_tester/1.jpg

regards

[Pete]

Sticky this i think!

[Xeon th MG Pony]

War4ning about that fibre tap: As it ages it will decompose and release glass fibre I highely recomend you heat shrink it or other such sealing process to avoid breathing in the fibres, this decompision process takes only a fiew heat cycles to start up, long as it is protected from machanicle abration it is fine. Hence the heat shrink. Second Fuses! all ways have a fusible link set to the maximum expected amperage with a time delay blow, that way it accounts for inrush (As litle as there is with resistive loads) and assures a safe system, or if you can scavange about an old photocopiers they have lovely 3.13Amp breakers in them ideal for such things.

Thirdly a proper Ammeter would be better then a clamp unit as they will read far more true to the current flow compared to a clamp on, and much cheaper to boot.

[Xeon th MG Pony]

Geting hit with a 120/230 Shock realy sucks

ALL WAYS USE HIGH CUATION WHEN DEALING WITH MAINS!

Duble check all splices; Ensure all connections are solid and coverd properly;
All ways have a fusible link at the front end of the hot line befor the switch;
Ensure a good clean grounding path through out your system, should be no higher then .5 -1Ohm from the ground prong to the farthest test point;
All ways use cord stress relievers at junctions so if you accidently trip on the cord it doesn't tear off inside.

[Xeon th MG Pony]

Can we have an earth wire going to that copper please. :stick: :stick:

The steel wire protecter should be acting as a case ground to the heater, thus it should be cupled to the grounding loop. Glad I wasn't the only one to notice the missing ground.

[Pete]

120 i found tickles, 230 was like getting kicked in the balls but 415 gave me a free trip across the car park and made me stay down for half hour. Little bugga

[Xeon th MG Pony]

lol, 630 cooks. either case is in the right circumstance even 120 can be deadly, all ways use high cuation when working round AC mains.

[SexyMF]

Those little speed control units are not like proper variacs. They are not autotransformers. You are adjusting the firing angle for the sinewave rather than getting a full sinewave at a lower voltage.
The steel wire is covered in thermal goop and its electrical bonding to the block will be useless.
These should ideally be run via an isolation transformer.

My safety concerns lies more in peoples electrical practices more than the possibility of some gas exploding. Nobody listens when you mention the need to fuses etc.
:(

And Xeon the ground should not be more than 1ohm.

[jinu117]

Wow, lot of safety concerns.
Let's clarify few things.
#1. Yes it is not proper variac but it works in this case. We are dealing with resisitive load in case someone forgot.
#2. If you can find proper ground portion of circuit, please please let me know as I've yet to see one reasonable place for it on this setup. Of course, major applinaces has nice shells, etc which makes perfect sense for the wire to touch in case it gets uninsulated and touches something. Unless you are running it on GPF circuit, all this does it dissipating the current through shell to ground wire. I am surprised that we talk about grounding and no one noticed this circuit is purely resistive load with no real other pathway. (I don't remember seeing toaster with 3 prongs ?!)
#3. Heatshrinking.. I didn't know about that. Thanks for letting us know :)
#4. Interestingly enough, AFAIK I haven't seen single variac without fuse. Maybe there exist some that doesn't....?
Here is what I would like someone who is REAL electrician to do. Write up a nice guide for us to sticky :) On what to be careful and what not and impact of such.
Another interesting tad bit is... it's not the voltage that kills, it's the current (amperage) that kills. Even 50v ac has potential to kill. But since our body has certain resistance, the amount of current going through it depends heavy on voltage really. It just makes higher voltage to kill easier since it is much easier for those high voltage to generate higher current through... you know what i mean -_- (cringes at the thought).
Oh, and for those who think ground is real safe, think again sometimes. In most home in US, ground is wired right on neutral to breaker box, than these two are grounded.... usually should be no problem really though.

[Xeon th MG Pony]

yes but more voltage means more current can flow so thus it is the current how ever for practicle average sense we pay attention to the voltage.

FYI I go through any place I rent with my DMM and check ground and verify its entregrity befor renting ;) 3 places I have been to ground was hot or open.

[runmc]

jinu thanks for that guide and runmc thanks for cartridge heater , here is mine ;)

http://ld-phasechange.com/images/load_tester/1.jpg

regards

:D SWEET :D

[wdrzal]

My safety concerns lies more in peoples electrical practices more than the possibility of some gas exploding. Nobody listens when you mention the need to fuses etc.

I agree,people need not only worry about the dangers of pressure and Flammable gases, but understanding electrical circuits Too. How to wire them with correct wire gage (for current) and fuse correctly (when required)and make proper secure electrical connections.

Bad connections = resistance,resistance=heat.Heat = higher resistance which = higher heat. Which = HIGHER RESISTANCE & even HIGHER HEAT ........It's a snow ball effect until something melts,shorts or burns up all because a proper connection was not made or the wire was not sized correctly for the current...........

[LittleDevil]

:D SWEET :D

Thanks Ron!

regards

[SexyMF]

FYI: I am qualified for three-phase and single-phase electrical work. It is my profession to service industrial electronic/electrical equipment. Stuff you can't unplug.


Jinu117: This wasn't a dig at your tester.

[jinu117]

Sorry I have jumped a bit SexyMF. But honestly if you can think of good ground point, I would appreciate that. I am not those not listening type and I was seriously thinking of where to put it but none came to idea -_-; (especially knowing the ground around house hold sometimes just are netural... felt like I am subjecting more danger than putting one in).

[yngndrw]

Oh, and for those who think ground is real safe, think again sometimes. In most home in US, ground is wired right on neutral to breaker box, than these two are grounded.... usually should be no problem really though.
Okay I don't know much about how things are done in the USA seems as I'm in the UK, but there is no problem in referencing the neutral to ground. Infact that is how the ground cable works. The idea of the ground is to force the voltage (relative to us, ie the earth) at the equipment's casing to 0v. Remember that all voltages are relative, so as long as there is no potential difference between us and the case there is no problem. As such a 'live' neutral cable *should* always be safe to touch, in single phase applications.

Does that make sense ? I'm tired.

[jinu117]

Gotcha.... :")

[m411b]

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=47798&stc=1&d=1149156178

Now let's connect cartridge heater to ac line.

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=47799&stc=1&d=1149156178

This is how I mount it. DFI bracket here (any cpu bracket can do), in this case i use 2 3inch 6/32" machine screw in there.

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=47800&stc=1&d=1149156178

Well, just sandwich our load tester between bracket and evap and mount it as you would on motherboard. I don't use wing nut for myself... Deep socket wrench with 5/16" does great for saving my hand and getting me good balanced mounting often times. Wingnut is convenient without tools but if you have proper tools, it makes even these little things easier :)

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=47801&stc=1&d=1149156178

Now, let's wire them up. Kill-a-watt goes to ac line. Variac or load variance tool goes to kill-a-watt. Load block connects to this load variance device.
Now you are ready to power up your phase, waterblock, air heatsink, etc and see how it handles load :)

Few things of notes...

1) It is recommended that you install thermal shut off switch. Something that won't burn through enclosure material if you forget to shut off the load tester after you are done testing..... (I've burnt 5 enclosures so far :P)

2) Bottom of load tester insulation... I prefer something stiff so that mounting is more consistant each time. Hard refrigeration foam, the tape I used, etc works great. I suggest armaflex tape type if these are not an option instead of foam... foam tends to be too squishy.

3) Always turn load tester off when you are done.


If the load block goes to the variac, and the variac goes to the Kill-A-Watt, then where is the power comming from? The Kill-A-Watt? I see no connections to a wall outlet. Does the Kill-A-Watt provide the power? And if it does, with what? Batteries????:confused:

[Carlz0r]

Kill-A-Watt gets plugged into a wall outlet.

And I agree with checking grounds before using them. When we renovated our house, I had the job of removing all the old wiring. I found a quite a few that were just neutral, and a couple that were live.

[m411b]

DUH:p: , I wasn't looking hard enough. I now see the plug on the back of the Kill-A-Watt that plugs into a wall outlet.:slapass:

[m411b]

Well after several days of waiting for supplies, here is my Load Tester. Jinu's design of course.
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o184/m411b/DSCI0027.jpg

For a ground I put a hole in the side of the block and used a self taping screw to secure the green ground wire. I have tested it and everything works well.

Thanx for such a simple and effective design Jinu,
m411b:)

[LostInSpace278]

Why not solder a ground to the cartridge sheath before you insulate your block?

With a soldering iron of course, not a torch :stick:

Edit: Since you are using a router speed control, which is not a "variac", can you also use a light dimmer?

[[XC] 2long4u]

120 i found tickles, 230 was like getting kicked in the balls but 415 gave me a free trip across the car park and made me stay down for half hour. Little bugga

230 I forgot where I was for a minute. 50,000 from a HEI spark is a nice little jolt.

[Barnsley-Bill]

This is mine im going to make 300 watt cartridge heater with a variac and amp meter.

[rockdude14]

anyone find a new place to buy copper from
Dangerden said that they havent sold any of them in a long time.

I found one other place speedy metals but its $30 after shipping.

[killermiller]

http://www.mcmaster.com/

[teyber]

here is mine so far:
http://img254.imageshack.us/img254/3668/loadtester1sg0.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
still awaiting variac, need to add grounding plug and thermal fuse. Also might buff the finish(its flat already though...) and re-do insulation.

Thanks so much jin! great guide!
p.s. rockdude:
http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?pid=4323&step=4&showunits=inches&id=253&top_cat=87
go to bottum and type in 2" for length... should be 13/14$


Regards

[[XC] 2long4u]

If anyone has any problem getting copper there is a local place that has it. I could send some out for you. (not trying to sell anything or make money, just offering).

[rockdude14]

just ordered from teyber's link

thanks for the offer and thanks for the link

[Duzter]

Does anyone know where I can buy that cartridge heater other than from mcmaster.com? The problem is that they won't ship to Denmark.. :(

Cartridge Heater 3/8" - 1½" - 250W

[[XC] 2long4u]

Grainger sells them but they don't carry as big of a selection.

[Duzter]

2long4u;3191260']Grainger sells them but they don't carry as big of a selection.

What is Grainger? :shrug:

[[XC] 2long4u]

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/start.shtml
They have everything from water pumps to industrial heaters to explosion proof fans.

[wdrzal]

Don't know about Denmark but this company has distributers through out Europe. Look on their home page where it says "locate a rep" on top. Chomalox is a manufacturer of these heaters so you may bypass a few middle men mark-ups.

http://www.chromalox.com/productcatalog/Industrial+Heaters/Component+Heaters/Cartridge/CIR/model-details.aspx?m=3253

http://www.chromalox.com/

[Duzter]

Don't know about Denmark but this company has distributers through out Europe. Look on their home page where it says "locate a rep" on top. Chomalox is a manufacturer of these heaters so you may bypass a few middle men mark-ups.

http://www.chromalox.com/productcatalog/Industrial+Heaters/Component+Heaters/Cartridge/CIR/model-details.aspx?m=3253

http://www.chromalox.com/

Thanks alot m8, just the right link. I have now ordered a cartridge heater from chromalox, so let's see if they are willing to ship to Denmark. :)

[runmc]

I decided it was time to make myself a new load tester :D I made my buddy Buckeye one too.:up: This is Bill's. He got the pretty one.;)

1. 2X 200 watt heater cartridges
2. thermostat to keep me from toasting my load tester for the 1000 time :ROTF:

[Buckeye]

Nice Ron, you da man !!

Thats coming attached to a Cascade right ? ;)

[Planet]

Nice Ron, you da man !!

Thats coming attached to a Cascade right ? ;)

Cascade is for me Bill!

[Buckeye]

Cascade is for me Bill!

You will shoot your eye out kid !

[teyber]

that must have taken you like a long hour to mount that thermal fuse so nice!

[runmc]

that must have taken you like a long hour to mount that thermal fuse so nice!

I went very slowly and used alot of oil as I drilled. I did not want to break any bits. I made mine first and did break a bit. I went very slow with the screws too.
BTW Reed - I like the "sniffer" I found a problem spot I bet no one ever looks. :D

[Buckeye]

I started this project sometime ago, but as things go life got in the way and delayed things a bit.

Finially I had a need to get this working for a up and coming project so I decided I would finish this today and see how the Jinu SS Phase held up.

This is the tester I decided to build.
Scroll down to post #32 when Jinu starts his project
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=99979&page=2

I used two 200watt heaters for mine so its a little different than what Jinu made there.
Also I have added overload protection to keep it from burning up incase I ever forget that its on and shut off the Phase unit.

Ron and I built ours at the same time. He drilled the copper blocks for me and provided much needed extra expert knowledge :)
So mine also looks just like this one.
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showpost.php?p=4254975&postcount=85

Now I was a little surprised at the results I saw. I believe I was told back then it was tuned for 280watts at some temp I can't remember at this time. All the time I ran this unit for 24/7 use all I could say was it held a QX9770 @ 4.8ghz. I never had a tester to actually test the load.
This unit was not built to be a benching unit, but rather a 24/7 cooler so its design is rather small for a benching unit, but designed to fit inside a TJ07 case which limits it some what. Thats ok tho as it works very well for 24/7 use.

Clearly 270watts is putting a little strain on the unit. I am going to have to see what I can do to beef this puppy up a little.

http://img829.imageshack.us/img829/7554/img1829o.jpg (http://img829.imageshack.us/i/img1829o.jpg/)

This will get insulated after I am sure its all running right.

http://img829.imageshack.us/img829/410/img1830y.jpg (http://img829.imageshack.us/i/img1830y.jpg/)

[sdumper]

Nice work!!

[Buckeye]

Thanks Scott

Nothing major here for you guys but was a nice project for me.

So going to have to pull out my gauges and equipment and see what the tune is like for this. I am sure it could be better.

This what he said he built back then in his build logs, or what he did post of it. This is clealy not what he made, or modded it after wards as mine has a nice accumulator in there, but his pic here do not show it.

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showpost.php?p=2887019&postcount=472

He states in there that its tuned for 230watts which seems a tad low as I remember him saying 280watts. I will have to recheck to see what its running temp wise at 230watts.

This is what he posted

0-20w -50c evap
200w -41c evap
230w -38c evap

Compressor is a Aspera NEK2134GK, says R404A but I think he used R507. No way to be sure really so prolly not a good idea to try and re-tune it with R507 which I have here, at least adding some that is.

Oh well might just leave it as it is. Prolly worth starting a new theard if I do so not to get off track in this one.

Found the pic of when I first recieved the unit and fired it up with no load
http://img219.imageshack.us/img219/7154/pic8je2.jpg (http://img219.imageshack.us/i/pic8je2.jpg/)

[LittleDevil]

Unbraided suction line is really weak, I repair alot of Mach units with the same problem ---> leak on suction line.

If I remember, he was using R507 gas ann 0.031 captube.

Kind Regards

[Buckeye]

Prolly right LD, this unit has seen lots and lots of use.
Thats what I thought, R507 wihich is good as I have a tank on that here.

Here it is now after 15 minutes running unloaded

And actually it drops to -46c after a longer period

http://img840.imageshack.us/img840/6678/img1831f.jpg (http://img840.imageshack.us/i/img1831f.jpg/)

[sdumper]

I doubt its a leak...where is the temp probe mounted on your load tester and where was it mounted when he was load testing.
If your taking a reading off the load tester and he was taking the reading off the evap or the suction neck then that would be a big delta.

I relly like your load tester setup and you Variac control in particular.

[LittleDevil]

Is suction line frozen near compressor when unit is idle and -46c on evap?

[Buckeye]

Temp probe is mounted on the Evap in both readings. I prefer Evap readings vs what the block says. So its att the same spot on all readings.

That Harbor Freight thingy was cheap to get, but when you try and go past 280watts it becomes very tricky, very slight adjustment wil make the watt load jump past 300watts very easy. It was just a temp perchase and wil prolly need to get a real one before to long.

Trying to remember here... maybe last year or so when I put it back on my 24/7 rig for a short period I noticed I had water leaking under the case when I got up the next day. Pulling the side covers off of the case I saw it was freezing right up to the compresor on the suction line. A small length of suction line did not have any insulation on it so it would ice up there. When shutting the machine down all that would melt off and case the water pool under the case.

I cover that area with insulation and that problem went away.

I would have to pull all that off and check again... but I belive the answer would be yes to being frozen right up to the comp

[sdumper]

In general less pressure will lead to lower temp readings until you reach a point where the pressure is too low thats why I was suspect of a leak considering this was working fine in daily use and the temps were slightly warmer than you remembered.

If your really bored trying cleaning out the condenser because if its covered with lint and the summer room temps are up that will impact you as well.

[Buckeye]

Yeah I did clean out the condensor and it hard almost no effect.

Its all good, don't think I will mess with it unless load temps start dropping more.

First I need to get building one myself that will work as a bencher so I am not Phase less here. Then might try beefing that one up after I get a little experiance actually building something and tunning.

The load tester is a nice project tho., I had fun :)