what does this pin do?

[cirthix]

the pin closest to the "w" on the bottom side of the adapter. without it, the system won't post. i shoved a pin in the socket and its working ok but do you think this could be responsible for a wall at 231fsb?

[saaya]

intel removed the pinout of the p4 from all their pdf files afaik

try to find the pin here:
made this pinout of the p4 one or two years ago when i was working on a pm to p4 adapter :D
i removed all ground and vcore pins, so this is all the logic pins
if the cpu doesnt boot without that pin it should be a logic pin

http://members.dodo.com.au/~cameron111/projects/viewer_originated/p4_conflicts1.jpg

[saaya]

it seems to be either w1 or w26

so a#29 or d#55

if i remember correctly the d pins are for the interface, aka the quadpumped bus. and a pins were related to them somehow i think hmmm

so yeah, this could limit you. the pin is probably making contact but not very good contact, so at high speeds the signal is getting weaker/unstable.

[cirthix]

the pin is W1. i'll try switch adapters locally if ii can, but i dunno

[saaya]

in a jewelery or a gold smith shop they can fix it and solder it back on
maybe in an electronics shop too

[cirthix]

just borrowed some pc4400 from a friend..... no change whatsoever. 231mhz is a complete crash.

[cirthix]

update: my boss is awesome :), but i think i'll swap adapters locally if i can. here's what he just emailed me (yes, at midnight hehe)


I'm a bit surprised that it works at all with a missing pin. Replacing the pin (although just a wee bit tedious) may be feazable. The technique for "feazing" it would be to flatten the stub carefully. Then take a "large" drill (#73 which is the .024 diameter of the stub) and make a small countersink to line up the smaller drill. This drilling would of course have to be done on the Bridgeport, where we can get 1 mil centering repeatability. Then drill a #80 hole (13.5 mil) which is about the size of the pins (12.5 mil) to a controlled depth by cranking the Z-axis. Then insert a pin (could be a cut off piece of #80 drill.) If you just stick the drill stub in the socket, it should press against the side of the drilled hole well enough to work. Otherwise you would have to solder it in. Drill wire may be hard to tin though. You might have to find a hard copper wire that is stiff enough.

edit: and on multiple occasions he has mentioned putting using some ln2 to overclock a lot :D (we have a LARGE always-on machine that compresses and filters nitrogen from the air into liquid nitrogen.... and it's in its own room, it needs the space hehehehehe)